55 gallon, all fish dead with normal levels

mjshealy

New Member
Hey everyone, I have a 55 gallon tank that had a yellow tang, two baby clowns, a blue damsel, a pom pom crab and a chocolate chip sea star. I introduced about 1 every week to two weeks, with the exception of the clowns. I had a problem the last two weeks with the water getting cloudy. I awoke three days ago to find everything in the tank dead, with their mouths and gills open as if gasping for air. I flushed them all, then immediately checked all levels. Ammonia, nitrite, nitrate all zero and pH at 7.6. I've been dealing with low pH and trying to get it to come up, no luck. Yesterday I upgraded my filtration system and all levels were normal, water still cloudy. I bought a small pseudocromine (?) And ten minutes into drip acclimation he was breathing rapidly and sunk to the bottom. I stopped the acclimation, but he stayed on the bottom gasping until he died a few minutes later. What could be the culprit here? All levels still normal. Tank setup as follows:
55 gallon tank
Emperor 400 bio-wheel filtration
90 gallon sized aerated powerhead
marineland heater
Salinity steady at 1.024
Temp at 80
regular weekly water changes at 8 gallons
 

bang guy

Moderator
It could be a bacteria bloom that is consuming all of the oxygen. I'm not sure how to test for that though. The chronic low PH is a symptom that supports a bacteria bloom.
Do you have a Phosphate test kit?
 

mjshealy

New Member
no I don't, nor do I remember seeing one around any of the local stores. Ill have to find one online.you think that killed the fish? I just looked at my original post and saw that I left out info. I had 5 small baby hermits for cleaning purposes, and they were left unaffected. Even today they're still alive.
 

bang guy

Moderator
Bacteria blooms are always an abundance of food. For bacteria that could be anything from sugar to phosphate.
How much were you feeding your fish?
How often did you change your water?
Did you have a Nitrate reading before the water turned cloudy?
 

mjshealy

New Member
Just picked up a phosphate test kit and it read 0.I was not feeding more than they would consume, but any excess was cleaned up. My nitrites and nitrates had both went a little over mid-way up the chart, but I was using a crappy top fin filter. Once I switched to the marineland emperor 400 everything straightened out. I change about 5 gallons once a week.
 

geridoc

Well-Known Member
If your nitrites were measurable at all, then there was an overabundance of nutrient in your water - either from overfeeding/undereating, or something died and is rotting away under a rock. The low pH and bacterial bloom reinforce that thought. Bacterial blooms require two responses: you need to fix the water quality immediately and you need to take steps to prevent long-term problems. For the short term, you need to get the water moving immediately so that the water from the bottom of the tank is circulated to the top, and the uppermost water cycles to the bottom. This will improve oxygenation, which is why fish die fairly quickly during a bloom as the bacteria use up all of the available oxygen. I'm pretty old school, so I have a diatom filter left over from maybe 20 years or more ago. If you don't have one, your lfs might loan you one (how do you think they keep the water so crystal clear?). A diatom filter will remove all of the suspended bacteria in a matter of a few minutes. The long-term fix is to keep water circulating and to get to an equilibrium between input, consumption and nutrient export. The minute you see nitrites in a cycled tank you know that nutrient is accumulating, and you have to find out where it is coming from and remove that source, be it a dead organism, or a piece of food left over and rotting away under a rock.
 

tthemadd1

Active Member
This happened in my tank two months ago or so. Question would be how long has tank been up and running? How long after putting water in tank did you introduce first fish?
Do you have a powerhead in the tank moving water or just the canister filter? If you look at some good tanks online there is a lot of flow across to water line. Helps get more oxygen transfer.
Also do you have a cover on the tank?
 

mjshealy

New Member
First off, thank you for your responses. I've been pulling my hair out over this. I believe now that it is a bacteria bloom. Water is still cloudy. I haven't had any nitrites show up since the new filter, but yesterdays tests indicated ammonia at .5 ppm. pH up to 8.0. I only have one powerhead, I've placed it close to the bottom of the tank now, pointing up on an angle. I plan to get another and put it at the top angled down. Aquarium has had fish for about two months now, established about two weeks before that. I keep the led hoods on that came with the tank.I am sure I know what caused it. It slipped my mind on my previous post but when I installed the new emperor filtration, the old filter system was not filtering, I removed the top and the water was flowing over the top of the filter. I cleaned them and had same result, must be a cheap filter design.
 

mjshealy

New Member
I also just vacuumed the top layer of sand out of the tank,cleaned decorations and did a 50% water change. Will update later.
 

mjshealy

New Member
I also just vacuumed the top layer of sand out of the tank, removed and cleaned decorations and did a 50% water change. In the last hour and a half, the water has become 50% clearer.
 

mjshealy

New Member
no, i do not have any live rock. just a few ocean coral-style decorations and a cave. all are pet-store aquarium decorations.
 

flower

Well-Known Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by mjshealy http:///t/395919/55-gallon-all-fish-dead-with-normal-levels#post_3526382
no, i do not have any live rock. just a few ocean coral-style decorations and a cave. all are pet-store aquarium decorations.
Hi,
Live rock is IMO, essential to keeping a SW tank. The decorations will get good bacteria colonies on them, but the true natural filtration is the live rock. The ocean is a perfectly balanced ecosystem, while our tanks seldom get a perfect balance, it is the goal.
The more you duplicate nature, the greater your chance of keeping natures creatures alive in an artificial environment (our tanks). The tiny creatures that live in the live rock (that's why we call it "live") do many wonderful things to help keep our tanks balanced, they feed on the stuff that is causing the nutrient problem. They prevent the bacterial bloom you seem to have suffered.
So there are a few things that I think will really help you to get things back on track. First, invest in some nice pieces of live rock to add to the fake décor, or replace the fake stuff altogether. Next, macroalgae will really help to stabilize the parameters. It actually feeds on the stuff that kills your sea creatures. Ammonia, nitrites, nitrates and phosphates. It releases oxygen, that your tank desperately needs. Macroalgae can be very decorative depending on what type you decide to add. Go to Golf Coast ecosystems, they have quite a variety of decorative macros to select from, and get what you like best. Macros such as chaeto, are only good in a refugium, Caulerpa prolifera looks like turtle grass, and botryocladia looks like bright red grapes, and add beautiful color to your system.
Last, the top of your tank needs to move, I like the top to look like it's boiling...this creates good gas exchange. Pointing a power head to the bottom won't do much, point one power head toward the rock and décor to clean it off, and the other toward the surface to make it move big time. "Koralia" power heads, or something similar, creates a wave, while the "Maxijet" types, just shoot a jet stream. You need a wave...the wave is the life of the ocean, and your SW tank.
(Just a helpful hint) A 90g tank is what I have as well, a Hippo tang is not suited for it because it's only 48 inches, and tangs need a longer tank. I placed my rock, and any décor in the center of the tank, with a couple of caves to allow the Hippo tang I kept, to be able to swim in perpetual motion around the tank, so instead of just 48 inches back and forth, he could swim on and on. The 48 inches (4 foot) became 8 feet of swim space. By crating caves, it allowed all the smaller more timid fish to zip out of the tangs way. It gave all the fish a way to swim back and forth, all the way around, or in and out of the rock.
Fake stuff in the tank does does only one thing, collect algae that you have to wash off. A few hermit crabs can't keep it clean, and the crabs kill the snails that do clean it off...so getting rid of the hermits would be a good idea.
 

tthemadd1

Active Member
Something that sparked my interested was changing filters. Did you put any "dirty media" back into the filter? It may have been your only source for heavy nitrification. If you remove all the "dirty" media you may start a cycling event which could result in what you have here. Look on this site for a sump/fuge. Bit helps make sure your bioload doesn't overburden your good bacteria.
 

yannifish

Active Member
mjshealy, are you familiar with the nitrogen cycle?
As you probably know, as food rots ammonia (NH3) is formed. As the NH3 becomes available it is consumer by bacteria, which release nitrite (NO2). Different bacteria consume the NO2 and release nitrate (NO3). This is why we cycle new tanks, to give time for these bacteria to become present in numbers large enough to quickly transform all NH3 into NO3. Simply replacing your filter isn't going to immediately fix your issue, as nitrifying bacteria will need time to colonize the new filter. As tthemadd1 indicated, when you change filter media you never want to replace it all at once, as you will get rid of all the good bacteria. The Emperor 400 has two sides, so a good way to ensure you always have the bacteria you need would be to only change once side at a time. A hang on back filter such as this, however, provides mainly mechanical filtration and chemical if you use activated carbon. Your main concern right now is biological filtration. As tthemadd1 suggested, I would encourage you to look into a sump and protein skimmer.
Flower also gave you lots of good advice when it comes to live rock and macro algae.
Hope this helps, and good luck!
 

mjshealy

New Member
I try to clean the filters in a staggered way, so that one will be clean while the other is dirty and has a chance to put the good bac back on the clean filter before its cleaned. Flower, that was some good advice and I thank you a lot for it. When I got my decor, I was thinking more for looks and weight, I have this fear of the live rock busting out the bottom of my tank. I realize this might be a weird fear, but when I noticed my tank is made of only 1/4" thick tempered glass for its weight load, I felt insecure for the brand new laminate flooring throughout the house were renting. I will look into a second powerhead, live rock, and macroalgae as soon as possible. On a side note, I woke up this morning and my water is clearer than its ever been. Ill check the levels tonight after work.
 

flower

Well-Known Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by mjshealy http:///t/395919/55-gallon-all-fish-dead-with-normal-levels#post_3526479
I try to clean the filters in a staggered way, so that one will be clean while the other is dirty and has a chance to put the good bac back on the clean filter before its cleaned. Flower, that was some good advice and I thank you a lot for it. When I got my decor, I was thinking more for looks and weight, I have this fear of the live rock busting out the bottom of my tank. I realize this might be a weird fear, but when I noticed my tank is made of only 1/4" thick tempered glass for its weight load, I felt insecure for the brand new laminate flooring throughout the house were renting. I will look into a second powerhead, live rock, and macroalgae as soon as possible. On a side note, I woke up this morning and my water is clearer than its ever been. Ill check the levels tonight after work.
Hi,
I understand the fear, but "TEMPERED" glass is very strong. Otherwise we would all be in trouble with our SW tanks. You don't have to load the tank with 1 pound per gallon as we USUALLY do. A few pieces is better then none, but IMO, you must have some. I have been mixing resin decorations and live rock for many years. I just don't care for the look of all rock. In one corner of my 56g I have live rock, and in the rest of the tank I have resin columns. In my 90g tank I have live rock in the back in both corners and live rock holding down the wooden anchor and ships wheel I covered in clear resin. I tried to upload a picture but for some reason it just isn't going to load....
 

mjshealy

New Member
So I have all my levels normal, water clear, any certain more amount of time I should wait before trying to introduce a fish?
 

mjshealy

New Member
ive been tryong to get to the pet store for a few days, but too much has been going on. Will try to go this weekend, as long as no one thinks I should wait longer.
 
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