Attn: Squidd

[squidd]

If you "sloshed" water in it and wiped it with a rag, that should be fine...they can have mold release agents in them or at the very least "store dust" (God knows...who "sneezed" in there).. so a good wiping is appropriate...no, you don't want to use "cleaners"...
For the anti siphon...mine is "right at" water level, a small ammount will come "out" that hole when the system is running, so you don't want it so high it "splashs" and nt so low it drains that much more water out before it breaks siphon...
As long as the tank is still "cycling" fire up the sump/fuge...all your really adding is additional water volume so it shouldn't effect the cycle...(same as if the system were up and running)
Only concern might be if you are adding a sand bed to the fuge and have the milky/cloudy water syndrome...then, just let the water settle out befor running it through the MT...

 

[annanymous]

got it...
will have more questions after the weekend.....................................for now its :jumping: vacations time :jumping:

 

[annanymous]

the weekend has passed by... :jumping:
and here is the newest question.
i read somewhere about DIY eductors for a closed loop. this eductor if put on a regular pump [not pressure treated???] will only double the flow, but thats good enough for me too.
so lets say i get a mag7 or mag9.5 on each side. hook up a the plumbing that goes in both corners and the eductor on each end, i will then have [700x2-200(for 4 elbows)=1200 on each side]
would that work, or do i need a different pump?

 

[annanymous]

bump for squidd

 

[annanymous]

should i put any teflon tape around a slipxslip PVC pipe that is going into the overflow for a better leakage protection, or is tefl;on tape for something else?

i just can't seem to get things right

 

[annanymous]

:needhelp:

 

[squidd]

Sorry, out of town again...
You can use a wrap of teflon tape arount a slip fit "inside" your tank or overflow (for something you may want to/need to dissassemble...But you should securly glue any connectiond outside the tank...especially if undr "pressure" as in a return line..

 

[annanymous]

Originally Posted by annanymous
the weekend has passed by... :jumping:
and here is the newest question.
i read somewhere about DIY eductors for a closed loop. this eductor if put on a regular pump [not pressure treated???] will only double the flow, but thats good enough for me too.
so lets say i get a mag7 or mag9.5 on each side. hook up a the plumbing that goes in both corners and the eductor on each end, i will then have [700x2-200(for 4 elbows)=1200 on each side]
would that work, or do i need a different pump?
any ideas
positive and negative are both welcome

 

[squidd]

Not familiar with DIY eductors and their limitations...do you have a pic or drawing of one to study...?

 

[annanymous]

let me see if i can find it again

 

[annanymous]

Parts list 3/8":
3/8"X1/2" nylon barb to MIP adaptor A-300 made by Watts
1/2"X1/2" slip to FPT coupler PVC
1/2"X3/4" MPT to slip adaptor PVC

 

[annanymous]

oh and here are the pics of the CL:S im thinking of making. tell me what you think
the first pic shows a brace for the mag7 or 9.5 pump

 

[annanymous]

last question...is this enough water level in the sump for my mag12 or should i have more?

 

[squidd]

The pictures help explain a lot...!!
By going DIY with common parts you get the "venturi" effect built into the eductors ((drawing low pressure water past a highpressure flow increasing overall flow) but due to the restrictions caued by turbulance (hose barbs, threaded fittings, square ends) you'll probably only get the 2X increase rather than an up tp 5x from a manufactured, blended, smooth radius unit...
Also ties in with the pressure pump vs. circulation pump difference in flow rate...(pressure pump can "push" past turbulance)...
So your math on the Mag 7 "sounds" about right...I'll have to whip a couple of these up and try them out...

As far as water covering return pump...you want two things from it...
1. You want to keep it deep enough to keep it from forming a whirlpool and sucking air...
2. So it either needs to start "higher" than that minimal level to account for evaporation loss...or
3. Add an ATO to keep water level stable in return chamber...
After that it doesn't matter if it's 4" down or 9" deep...
edit:After relooking the pics...only other concern would be if the "waterfall" from skimmer chamber is causing bubbles to push to return chamber...
If they are being "trapped" in the baffles...fine...or raise the return chamber level to minimize the waterfall and lessen bubble production...

 

[annanymous]

what do you think of the CLS?

 

[squidd]

I'm not a fan of running Mags "external" like that due to leakage, saltcreep and cooling/wear issues, but run over the top of the tank as pictured will at least help in the "leakage" aspect...

 

[annanymous]

do you by any chance know if i can use phosban reactor for carbon? also i stumbled across oxygen reactor [and its like $60], so i was wondering if its a good idea to put theat on the system and if i would need any extra components.
oh and im currently making a kalk reactor myself.

 

[squidd]

Originally Posted by annanymous
do you by any chance know if i can use phosban reactor for carbon?
>>>That's a good place to run carbon...fluidized bed allows full contact with all surface area of carbon...<<<
also i stumbled across oxygen reactor [and its like $60], so i was wondering if its a good idea to put theat on the system and if i would need any extra components.
>>>You should be able to get all the oxegenation needed thru good flow techniques...<<<
oh and im currently making a kalk reactor myself.
>>> Excellect DIY project...looking forward to seeing the results<<<
.

 

[annanymous]

any luck with those eductors yet???
im having a few issues in my tank and was wonderuing maybe you know how to deal with them.
1. my MT is full of micro bubbles, no matter what level o fwater i keep in the sump. of course there are less of them when the sump is almost full to the brink, but i cant keep it that way fornow cuz i still didnt mak the auto top-off system.
2. my whole living room is filled with evaporated water that just stays in the air there. i have opened all my windows, doors, even the front door, but no matter what i do the air is still extremely "wet."
3. my overflow is creating a crazyly annoying waterfall effect, nomatter what i try. the MT level of water is full, sump is full, but inside the overflow the level is only about till the 90 degree elbow intake of water. it also splashes too much, and some water gets on my VHOs.
please any help.........

 

[annanymous]

ok kalk reactor is done.