Attn: Squidd

[squidd]

It "might" work...but I don't reccomend gong that route...those 1/2" outlets on the SCWDs really do restrict the flow (plus plumbing, elbows, connectors, "T"s, etc..your "close" on the numbers maybe a little less per...and that's just too low a return for the pump your running...
Get the "Super Squirt" if money is an issue or better yet the OM 4 Way... and run 1" ilnes on the returns..

 

[annanymous]

i am facing a bit of a problem. i filled up the overflow 1/2 way with water just to make sure it will not leak throgh. the water does not come up to the point where the pipe wouild suck it in, but the water is!!! coming into my sump even though its level is still too low in the overflow. no other leaks besides this one. makes me very nervous!!!!

 

[squidd]

Check and seal where standpipe enters bulkhead...

 

[annanymous]

its really leaking now. i dont know what to do. its leaking where the bulkhead is but i cant get to it cuz i have the stand covered by a 1/2 birch wood.

do i have to take all the water aout of the tank now and move it forward so i can tighten the bulkhead??????
i made it hand-tight cuz in my LFS they said no tools cuz break the glass, only hand tight....
what am i gonna do now???
i alreadyhave all the rock and sand in it

 

[annanymous]

btw the place where standpipe enters the bulkhead is a male adaptor cuz the bulkhead was with those spiny lines :notsure:

 

[acrylic51]

So the leak is actually coming from the bulkhead??? Do you have any room or clearance where you cut the birch plywood top that the bulkhead drops down through???? I had this problem on a 150, and was able to work a pair of big needlenose vise grips in to turn it.....If you have more room but can't get your hands in what about a pair of channel lock pliers, just use the edges of it

 

[squidd]

the bulkhead was with those spiny lines
You mean "threads"...??
Is the bulkhead leaking from the standpipe "into" the bulkhead /drainline...or "past" the bulkhead and outside the tank...??
Hopefully you placed the gasket "inside" the tank..between the flange of the bulkhead and glass of the tank...in which case you should be able to tighten it up from "outside" the tank...by turning the lockring/nut on the outside of the bulkhead...

 

[annanymous]

i did exactly as it is on the puicture, yes the water is leaking outside the tank and on the floor of my stand.
the pipe is 1.3/8", the hole in birch wood 2". really not much space to put anything in.
i just took out the overflow that is causing problems and let all the water to drain into the sump, so no leaking for now!!!

, however i still have to solve the problem by the end of this week. i want to start my tank cycling already

 

[annanymous]

ok took out the overflow, tightened the bulkhead put more water in...voila!!!!...no leaking. put back the opverflow and everything seems to be fine...
ecsept, how do i know it wont start leaking again in a day or 2???
one the whoile system is runing it wont be as easy to take out the overflows and tighten the bulkheads again
any input on this?

 

[squidd]

Once you get it "sealed" it should stay sealed...
Unless it's just barely tight enough to seal and might loosten...
Or it's cranked so tight the locknut "splits" down the road and dumps on you...
Hopefully...you got it "just right"..

 

[annanymous]

off the topic here, but maybe you know. i need to install my MH rtro kit in the canopy. what shoud i use as the spacer b/w the wood canopy and the socket. i dont want to have a fire in the house...
also how do i extend wires, and what do i use to attach them together?

 

[squidd]

What's the reflector made of...? Stainless steel or Aluminum...? Use the same material for the spacers...
Proper way to splice wires is to solder and shrink wrap...

 

[annanymous]

no reflector. i used hydrophonic paper, that looks like a reflector, its 98% reflective. and it is attached directly to the wood. my sockerts have sort of like a spacer. they will be about 1.5" lower then the wooden canopy, but i was still concerned about heating up the wood.

 

[annanymous]

ok done wiring, the hood is up and running. except it kinda smells like something burnt, but everything seems fine. what can it be???
also my fans are right over the lamps, would this be a problem or should i leave it like that?
WOW, dual 400 sure put out lotsa heat. i have 4 3" fans blowing at the lamps and there is so much heat. mind ya, i only had them on for like 30 min...
i hope i wont need a chiller right away

 

[annanymous]

haha
its been a while...
my temp with all the lights on is still going at about 83, and thats having the lights only for 3-4 hours a day...
anyhow, i just found 2 big mistake that i made and im trying to fix that now...
1] i forgot to make an antisiphon hole...and now that i come to thingk of it i dont know whre it should be...how do i tell my water level??? and does it have to be in the back or on the side is also fine?
2] i glued the one of the dividers in the sump, but now a tiny opening is letting the water level out[opening is like 1/2"]. is there anything i can do to fix it. i have my sump filled up about 4" with water already [b/c of the leaking with overflows that i had]
hope to hear from you soon

 

[squidd]

1. Back or side is fine...Hole is set at or near "full" or normal tank level...
2. Empty it, dry it, glue it...let it dry and then water test it...repeat if neccessary....THEN hook it to the main tank....

 

[annanymous]

i had a bit of a problem cuz i cracked my fuge tank, so i replaced it wth a regular rubbermaid container ment for 90.8 L. are there any precautionary measures or anything i should do cuz its a rubbermaid container??? i already drilled a hole in it and installed a bulkhead i had from the cracked tank.
would you be alble to explain to me how the anti-syphon hole works. i mean this is the return pipe so there is no syphoning going on, the pump wont stop only cuz of that hole, so what exactly is it for?
hey...they actualy archived this thread along with plumbing 101...kool :jumping:

 

[annanymous]

forgot the pic of a container...

 

[squidd]

For fuge use, other than "washing" it out real well they work fine...
As far as the anti-siphon hole goes...When the return pump is "running" the line that goes "up" and to the tank is full of pressurized water heading to the tank...usually the outlet is set below the surface of the main tank water to keep it from slpashing and dragging bubbles into the display area...
"If" power goes out (power outage, or you shut the system down for maintainence) the full return line will "reverse" it's flow and become a siphon (backwash)...draining your tank to the level of the outlet...generally more than your sump can hold and usually causing a flood on the floor...
By adding the anti-siphon hole to the return line near the "normal" opperating water level, when power goes out, it will suck air and break the siphon effect as soon as the "hole" is exposed (that's why you put it right near normal water level)
When the pump is running, and the pipe pressurized a small amount of water will come "out" of the hole...that is also why you want it "in" the tank at or near normal water level (to minimize splashing)

 

[annanymous]

ok...sump ready to go.
is it ok to hook up the sump and fuge even though my tank is going through a cycle now? will it restart my cycle?
im still scared something is gonna leak again :scared: , i double glues the sump so this wont happen again, and my tank is goping trouht the stage of ditoms right now.
should i wait hooking up the sump/fuge or not???
oh and the anti-syphon...i should put it a little lower then the normal water level, right?
in the last post you said i should wash the plasic fuge really really well. well..by the time i read your post the fuge was already in the stand filled with water, sand, and rocks [cuz i had no space for them in my living room

] and all i did was splash it with water a little, cuz i though i cannot use any cleaners

i hope i didnt make another mistake