Attn: Squidd

squidd

Active Member
Originally Posted by annanymous
:eek: i like the idea of both holes being used for water going down [should the bigger hole go to the fuge or sump?]
>>>1" to sump, 3/4" to fuge<<<
so mag12 it is. anything else i need to order from an online fish supply store?
>>>Don't know ..what are you missing...?? Bulkheads, sand, rock, lights, salt, 1 1/4" U tube (if your going to siphon the fuge) Skimmer, C Reactor, Mag Float scraper...can always think of "something" to fill an order... :D <<<
apprx. how much LR and LS will i need in my 30g fuge? up until what point will the water in my fuge be filled up? no LR and LS in the sump, right?
>>>This depends on the Goal for the Fuge and can vary and change as the Fuge develops....I run a 1/2" sand on bottom for Macros to attach to and a small "pod pile" of rubble in the corner for the little buggers...Water level will depend on siphon setup and relative balance between the two tanks (sump/fuge)<<<
can u show me a pic of a spraybar, cuz im a bit confused and what matirials i need to construct all that[ return line and spraybar and drain line too]
>>>Pics to follow, many variations from these basic layouts<<
would i need to use 1" pvc pipes or smaller or bigger, and whether smaller hole gets a 3/4" pvc pipe?
>>> Yes...plumb accordingly<<<
last question for now :D , i'm still very confused about how to connect the fuge and the sump. my fuge will be around 4" higher then the sump, but not drilled on the side, so wouild i still be able to make a gravity feed "u" tube and be safe?
>>>For U tube siphon tank tops should be same height..water will "balance" between fuge (which is constantly being "filled") and sump chamber "baffle" you set to hold water level constant...nother pic...<<<
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annanymous

Member
if i will get my fuge drilled, how big a hole would i need? [LFS charges $25 + $20 for bulkhead, but i have my own bulkheads so only $25 for the hole]
in order to set the water line in sump where will i need to put that baffle from the last picture?
so the 3/4" going to fuge, 1" to the sump. will mag12 be able to handle so much "flow in"?
how long the PVC pipe in the overflow box should be...you have 1 14" PVC pipe. does taht mean 14" or it means the diameter of the pipe is 1 1/4"???
what should be my next step about plumbing. bulkheads coming in on wensday, ordering mag12 today.
i am also planning to set up an auto topoff system, so where would i put the float switch [which part of the sump]?
oh and since both openings are used as drains i gues i should just make two overlow pipes, right?
 

annanymous

Member
last quastion... for spaybar do i need that flexible ball tubing [or whatever it is caled] or i will be using a regular PVC type plastic tubes? and also what size should they be and how long each?
thanks a lot for all the help you giving me...would have been lost long time ago if not for you.
 

fuax

Member
Really nice job explaining everything guys helped me to understand how it all works.
BTW Squidd can you get my vcr to stop blinking 12:00 hehhehe
 

squidd

Active Member
Originally Posted by annanymous
if i will get my fuge drilled, how big a hole would i need? [LFS charges $25 + $20 for bulkhead, but i have my own bulkheads so only $25 for the hole]
>> I'd get a 1 1/2" bulkhead to quietly allow the gravity flow to do it's job...<<<
in order to set the water line in sump where will i need to put that baffle from the last
picture?
>>> If you get the fuge drilled, you won't need the baffle<<<
so the 3/4" going to fuge, 1" to the sump. will mag12 be able to handle so much "flow in"?
>> It's not going to flow "in" any faster than the Mag is pumping it up...(where do you think the waters coming from??) :D <<<
how long the PVC pipe in the overflow box should be...you have 1 14" PVC pipe. does taht mean 14" or it means the diameter of the pipe is 1 1/4"???
>>>1 1/4"<<<
what should be my next step about plumbing. bulkheads coming in on wensday, ordering mag12 today.
>>>I don't know where your at so I can't tell you what to do next<<
i am also planning to set up an auto topoff system, so where would i put the float switch [which part of the sump]?
>> Return chamber is the only one that will "show" a loss of water, so place ATO there to make up for it<<<
oh and since both openings are used as drains i gues i should just make two overlow pipes, right?
>>>Yep one 1 1/4" for 1" bulkhead and one 1" for 3/4" bulkhead set at same height<<<
.
 

squidd

Active Member
Originally Posted by annanymous
last quastion... for spaybar do i need that flexible ball tubing [or whatever it is caled] or i will be using a regular PVC type plastic tubes? and also what size should they be and how long each?
Spraybar/return can be what ever you want/have available... Loc line, "T"s and valves, single line with holes drilled in, Just a "T" run a SCWD or Ocean Motion flow controler, or even a single outlet...
Doesn't "have to" be a spray bar...
 

annanymous

Member
ok, just ordered mag12 and 3 maxi jet 900s. :jumping: all i need to get is bit more LS and some more LR, but that i wil order only when everything is set-up and ready to be filled with water. :happy:
 

annanymous

Member
i still need that 30X turn over or as close to 30x as possible.
and i would like to keep my rock and sand clean so i need movement, spraybar it is.... :jumping:
 

annanymous

Member
ok got all the equipment, ...
im trying to put together the return pipe...PROBLEM:
almost done, but the pipe does not stay perpendicular to the tank, it keeps tilting in one direction or other. what should i do?
also im goijgn on friday to get the fuge drilled, where should the hole be? i know you said 1" but the company messed up ans sent me 3/4" bulkhead, would that still be okay or should i start the whole exchange progrma with them [long time].
so far so good.
 

squidd

Active Member
the pipe does not stay perpendicular to the tank, it keeps tilting in one direction or other. what should i do?
Probably need to "shorten" it just a tad, so it slightly "hangs" perpendicular and no extra slop to tilt...but not so much it holds the pump off the bottom of the sump..
i know you said 1" but the company messed up ans sent me 3/4" bulkhead,
Actuall I said 1 1/2" bulkhead from fuge for gravity drain...(#85)
Yes...buy a new/proper one...
 

annanymous

Member
ok....im still plumbing [it is kinda fun]
got my tank drilled today...1 1/2" bulkhead!!! :D
im doing my plumbing and i realized i cant have everything as straight as i wanted it...wold that be a problem if i have t add 90 and 45 degree elbows. i will take a picture of all my plumbing so far once i get done with the overflows.
3/4" bulkhead is a "slip in" inside, but the 1" bulkhead needs to have the pipe "screwed in", does it make a difference?
 

squidd

Active Member
Careful with ading too many 45* and 90* elbows to make the plumbing fit the flow and curves of your layout...
Sometimes it's brtter to use "Flexible PVC" (Spa Flex) to get the slight offsets rather than the restrictive elbows...
I usually use slip (or adapt to slip) inside the tank (easier to make adjustments later if needed) and threaded or glued joints outside the tank (don't want anything coming apart...)
 

annanymous

Member
i solvedmy problem with a 1" bulkhead under the tank...i put a 1" male adapter and now also have slip on for the pipe.
now im off to do the overflow things...
 

annanymous

Member
so how tall the overflow pipes have to be? do they have to stick out of the water or only the air valce has to be out of the eater, or maybe everything has to be submerged???
i am including a picture of the sump... my problrm is tht the return pump wont stay put, it keeps tilting over because of the spaflex tubing. the second and thrird pictures are of the plumbing inside and in the back of the tank...
wensdsay the skimmer is coming in, and hopefully by then i should be done with plumbing...so would i be abeto fill up my tank with water, or not yet??? :notsure:


 
N

nluchau

Guest
I did have mine on during my cycle. I dont think it caused too much of a problem. Some people may say leave them off but I left mine on.
 

annanymous

Member
i have the VHO retro at home already, MH retro coming in few days, but i still need to buy a reflector and bulbs for both kinds of lighting...soi was wodering if i can start my tank on cycling and look for the bulbs meanwhile. i also read somethwere that keeping your lights off during cycle helps recude the algae problem.
i sound like a real newbie cuz when i set up my firaat tank i did everything so fast and so not right that i cant remember anymore the sequence of events...plus ilearnt a lot of info so now i dont know where to start
 

squidd

Active Member
You can get tank started "cycling" while you finish the upgrades...
You can also fill the MT and start cycle prior to fireing up the sump fuge ...then add in the S/F flow as you get the bugs worked out...
 
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