Attn: Squidd
- Thread starter annanymous
- Start date
annanymous
Member
what about the backwash area.
let me know where i'm gonna be wrong...
lets say 1 1/2" will drain back to the sump, which is 5.6 g. i will need exactly 4.5" in the 20g tank to cover the area. which only leaves me with 11.5" to work with.
btw my tank dimensions are 24x12x16.
for the skimmer i will need 11", for the mag12 i'll need 7", and for the fuge drain im gonna need 2"[about]. that leaves me with 4" for baffles. right? so how many bafles will i need. i want to make the water fall as quietly as possible and reduce bubbles as much as possible too.
i appreciate your fast responses
let me know where i'm gonna be wrong...
lets say 1 1/2" will drain back to the sump, which is 5.6 g. i will need exactly 4.5" in the 20g tank to cover the area. which only leaves me with 11.5" to work with.
btw my tank dimensions are 24x12x16.
for the skimmer i will need 11", for the mag12 i'll need 7", and for the fuge drain im gonna need 2"[about]. that leaves me with 4" for baffles. right? so how many bafles will i need. i want to make the water fall as quietly as possible and reduce bubbles as much as possible too.
i appreciate your fast responses
squidd
Active Member
You can "baffle" the overflow drain line and fuge drain line with a 3"x3" (or so) corner chamber 1" up from bottom...
then 11" for skimmer and 7" for pump... should leave 6" for center baffles 2 1/2" apart skimmer side down and pump side 2 1/2" up...so you actually have 12" for skimmer and 9" for return...
Top view..
then 11" for skimmer and 7" for pump... should leave 6" for center baffles 2 1/2" apart skimmer side down and pump side 2 1/2" up...so you actually have 12" for skimmer and 9" for return...
Top view..
annanymous
Member
is it a problem if my fuge is not drilled and the fuge will be under the MT and sump right next to the fuge on the side of the MT.
what do u mean 3x3 1" from the bottom. does that make a small box for the water to come in to the sump. i really dont know anything about sumps. also will this design allow me to run carbon and if yes how would i go about doing it?
what do u mean 3x3 1" from the bottom. does that make a small box for the water to come in to the sump. i really dont know anything about sumps. also will this design allow me to run carbon and if yes how would i go about doing it?
annanymous
Member
oh btw the holes in the tank are 1.5" and 1.75". what size bulkheads will i need?
squidd
Active Member
1 3/4" hole is for 1" bulkhead and 1 1/2" hole is for 3/4" bulkhead...
Using the 1" as the standpipe and drain you can expect 600 gph or so from the overflow...size return pump accordingly..
You can set the fuge and sump at the same level and use a siphon/U tube, but you run the risk of flood if you loose siphon...I don't reccomend it...
Carbon needs good amount of flow to be effecient...either a reactor or converted canister filter... Not a whole lot of good sitting in a sump...
Using the 1" as the standpipe and drain you can expect 600 gph or so from the overflow...size return pump accordingly..
You can set the fuge and sump at the same level and use a siphon/U tube, but you run the risk of flood if you loose siphon...I don't reccomend it...
Carbon needs good amount of flow to be effecient...either a reactor or converted canister filter... Not a whole lot of good sitting in a sump...
annanymous
Member
so does that mean that i only need a mag9?
if so then i would have to have too many PH inside the tank
, which i was trying to avoid. is there any other way of creating water movement except PHs [2 or 3 is fine, but more will look horrible, IMO]
if so then i would have to have too many PH inside the tank
annanymous
Member
about the fuge being not drilled, i meant that the fuge will be higher then the sump, but its not drilled so i was wondering if there is a way to create somethign similar to a u-tube, but more secure then one. i dont mind having it drilled, but nowhere around me they can do it. and i dont know how to do it myself 
annanymous
Member
thnx acrylic51.
do u by any chance know which glue i can use to glue my baffles[ acrylic] to my tank [glass]?
i went to lowes and they gave me marine goop, which is basicly like glue, so di apply it straight to the edges of the acrylic or do i heat it up as someone on this suggested, ...or maybe i dont use it at all if its not safe for SW?
do u by any chance know which glue i can use to glue my baffles[ acrylic] to my tank [glass]?
i went to lowes and they gave me marine goop, which is basicly like glue, so di apply it straight to the edges of the acrylic or do i heat it up as someone on this suggested, ...or maybe i dont use it at all if its not safe for SW?
annanymous
Member
ok...sump is done. is therw anything i need to do in the fuge ?[baffles or anything]
now all thats left is plumbing!!!! oy vei
now all thats left is plumbing!!!! oy vei
annanymous
Member
bulk heads ordered, coming in soon. skimmer is also on the way [promised by monday]. do you by any chance know anything about reef gro MH bulbs [400w]?
it looks like i have finaly solved my problem about weight of the tank and now can go on [almost ready to add water, except it will just drain into the fuge and floor ], to plumbing.
i can proly figure out where i need an elbow or a tee and how long my pipes should be, however i have no idea where ball valves [the ones for quick disconnect in case of pump failure or something like that] go and how many i need.
i would also like few pointers about how to install the bulkheads properly [should i glue them in place or screw them very tight or both or maybe something else]
it looks like i have finaly solved my problem about weight of the tank and now can go on [almost ready to add water, except it will just drain into the fuge and floor
], to plumbing. i can proly figure out where i need an elbow or a tee and how long my pipes should be, however i have no idea where ball valves [the ones for quick disconnect in case of pump failure or something like that] go and how many i need.
i would also like few pointers about how to install the bulkheads properly [should i glue them in place or screw them very tight or both or maybe something else]
annanymous
Member
so now...do i need a mag9 or mag 12 return pump?
annanymous
Member
ok so i will need a ball valve by the skimmer, by the mag pump, and what will i use for the fure to stop the flow in case of pump failure?
and how would i construct the return through the overflow [and the spraybar???]
and how would i construct the return through the overflow [and the spraybar???]
squidd
Active Member
Originally Posted by annanymous
so now...do i need a mag9 or mag 12 return pump?
One possibilty we hadn't discussed is using "both" the bulkheads in the overflow as drains (600+300) and then running the sump return OTT (over the top) Then you could stay with the Mag 12 for flow...
ok so i will need a ball valve by the skimmer, by the mag pump, and what will i use for the fure to stop the flow in case of pump failure?
Skimmer should be sittng "independantly in the sump so no ball valve/disconect needed...
Running return OTT and adding an anti siphon hole will prevent water from draining tank...
and how would i construct the return through the overflow [and the spraybar???]
If you go OTT with return, go directly to spraybar...
so now...do i need a mag9 or mag 12 return pump?
One possibilty we hadn't discussed is using "both" the bulkheads in the overflow as drains (600+300) and then running the sump return OTT (over the top) Then you could stay with the Mag 12 for flow...
ok so i will need a ball valve by the skimmer, by the mag pump, and what will i use for the fure to stop the flow in case of pump failure?
Skimmer should be sittng "independantly in the sump so no ball valve/disconect needed...
Running return OTT and adding an anti siphon hole will prevent water from draining tank...
and how would i construct the return through the overflow [and the spraybar???]
If you go OTT with return, go directly to spraybar...
annanymous
Member
i like the idea of both holes being used for water going down [should the bigger hole go to the fuge or sump?]so mag12 it is. anything else i need to order from an online fish supply store?
apprx. how much LR and LS will i need in my 30g fuge? up until what point will the water in my fuge be filled up? no LR and LS in the sump, right?
can u show me a pic of a spraybar, cuz im a bit confused and what matirials i need to construct all that[ return line and spraybar and drain line too]
would i need to use 1" pvc pipes or smaller or bigger, and whether smaller hole gets a 3/4" pvc pipe?
last question for now
, i'm still very confused about how to connect the fuge and the sump. my fuge will be around 4" higher then the sump, but not drilled on the side, so wouild i still be able to make a gravity feed "u" tube and be safe?
annanymous
Member
by the way i found a link that shows my overflow box, and the accesory kit the LFS was tryting to sell me for $90.
AGA megaflow overflow
MegaFlow Overflow Accessory Kit
Parts List*
1 - 1" Bulkhead assembly (includes: bulkhead, washer, and nut)
1 - 1" Insert
1 - Adjustable drainpipe
1 - Air intake elbow
1 - 90° Elbow
1 - Strainer
1 - 3/4" Bulkhead assembly (includes: bulkhead, washer, and nut)
1 - 3/4" Insert
1 - Return pipe
1 - 3/4" Elbow
1 - Nozzle
*Additional items needed: PVC primer, PVC cement, and PVC pipe cutter
Installation
Wet the bulkhead seals. Insert "bulkheads with bulkhead seal" into the predrilled holes from the inside of the aquarium, for each hole. The seal must be placed between the bottom of the bulkhead top and the inner bottom glass. To ensure a proper seal, the inner bottom surface must be cleaned of any debris.
Fit "bulkhead nuts" to "bulkheads" from the underside of the aquarium. Hand-tighten until nut is properly secured. Do not over tighten. To reduce the risk of damaging the bulkhead assemblies or breaking the aquarium, the use of tools is not recommended.
Depending on the height of your aquarium, the "drain pipe" will need to be adjusted (Do not cut to length). To adjust your drainpipe, simply submerge pipe assembly in water. Once the pipe assembly is wet, adjust to correct length. The "return pipe" may also need to be sized. Cut return pipe to correct length.
For 110X, 150, and 210 aquariums: Return pipe length is 26-3/4" long (supplied length).
For 65, 90, 92 corner, 120, 155 bow, and 180 aquariums: Cut return pipe to 22-3/4" long.
For 54 corner, 72 bow, and 125 aquariums: Cut return pipe to 20-3/4" long.
For 55 and 75 aquariums: Cut return pipe to 18-3/4".
Screw the "nozzle" into the "3/4" elbow." Press fit the opposite side of the "elbow" to one end of the "return line." Press fit the remaining end of the "return pipe" into the "3/4" bulkhead." Already mounted in the aquarium. *Note: The small hole in the "3/4" elbow" is an anti-siphon feature in the even of a power outage and must remain open.
The drainpipe assembly is NOT to be permanently bonded together. This is for easy access and cleaning of the drainpipe components. Assemble the "strainer," the 90° "elbow," and the "air intake elbow" by snapping them together. The elbow assembly and the "drain pipe base" then get press fir to the "Adjustable drainpipe." The entire drain assembly then gets press fir into the "1" bulkhead" already mounted in the aquarium.
If hoses are going to be used to connect the filtration system, the inserts will be needed. If inserts are not needed, skip this step. If inserts are needed, apply PVC primer and cement to the 3/4" insert and insert the 3/4" bulkhead already mounted in aquarium. Repeat for the 1" insert.
The assembly and installation is now complete for the All-Glass Aquarium Overflow System.
Recommended Drain Pipe Adjustment
Remove cap. Cap removal will allow you to grip more area of inner pipe for adjustment.
Add a small amount of water between inner and outer pipe to act as a lubricant. Water will assist inner pipe movement.
To adjust, twist inner pipe clockwise band counterclockwise intermittently, while pulling. This should be a one-time adjustment for each tank height.
Replace Cap
NOTE: Do not add silicone-based products to assist in adjustment. It is important that the inner tube and the outer tube remain as tight as possible. Use water only as a lubricant.
AGA megaflow overflow
MegaFlow Overflow Accessory Kit
Parts List*
1 - 1" Bulkhead assembly (includes: bulkhead, washer, and nut)
1 - 1" Insert
1 - Adjustable drainpipe
1 - Air intake elbow
1 - 90° Elbow
1 - Strainer
1 - 3/4" Bulkhead assembly (includes: bulkhead, washer, and nut)
1 - 3/4" Insert
1 - Return pipe
1 - 3/4" Elbow
1 - Nozzle
*Additional items needed: PVC primer, PVC cement, and PVC pipe cutter
Installation
Wet the bulkhead seals. Insert "bulkheads with bulkhead seal" into the predrilled holes from the inside of the aquarium, for each hole. The seal must be placed between the bottom of the bulkhead top and the inner bottom glass. To ensure a proper seal, the inner bottom surface must be cleaned of any debris.
Fit "bulkhead nuts" to "bulkheads" from the underside of the aquarium. Hand-tighten until nut is properly secured. Do not over tighten. To reduce the risk of damaging the bulkhead assemblies or breaking the aquarium, the use of tools is not recommended.
Depending on the height of your aquarium, the "drain pipe" will need to be adjusted (Do not cut to length). To adjust your drainpipe, simply submerge pipe assembly in water. Once the pipe assembly is wet, adjust to correct length. The "return pipe" may also need to be sized. Cut return pipe to correct length.
For 110X, 150, and 210 aquariums: Return pipe length is 26-3/4" long (supplied length).
For 65, 90, 92 corner, 120, 155 bow, and 180 aquariums: Cut return pipe to 22-3/4" long.
For 54 corner, 72 bow, and 125 aquariums: Cut return pipe to 20-3/4" long.
For 55 and 75 aquariums: Cut return pipe to 18-3/4".
Screw the "nozzle" into the "3/4" elbow." Press fit the opposite side of the "elbow" to one end of the "return line." Press fit the remaining end of the "return pipe" into the "3/4" bulkhead." Already mounted in the aquarium. *Note: The small hole in the "3/4" elbow" is an anti-siphon feature in the even of a power outage and must remain open.
The drainpipe assembly is NOT to be permanently bonded together. This is for easy access and cleaning of the drainpipe components. Assemble the "strainer," the 90° "elbow," and the "air intake elbow" by snapping them together. The elbow assembly and the "drain pipe base" then get press fir to the "Adjustable drainpipe." The entire drain assembly then gets press fir into the "1" bulkhead" already mounted in the aquarium.
If hoses are going to be used to connect the filtration system, the inserts will be needed. If inserts are not needed, skip this step. If inserts are needed, apply PVC primer and cement to the 3/4" insert and insert the 3/4" bulkhead already mounted in aquarium. Repeat for the 1" insert.
The assembly and installation is now complete for the All-Glass Aquarium Overflow System.
Recommended Drain Pipe Adjustment
Remove cap. Cap removal will allow you to grip more area of inner pipe for adjustment.
Add a small amount of water between inner and outer pipe to act as a lubricant. Water will assist inner pipe movement.
To adjust, twist inner pipe clockwise band counterclockwise intermittently, while pulling. This should be a one-time adjustment for each tank height.
Replace Cap
NOTE: Do not add silicone-based products to assist in adjustment. It is important that the inner tube and the outer tube remain as tight as possible. Use water only as a lubricant.
annanymous
Member
i think i can handle this without spending a fortune... :joy: