BIGUN Has A BOOBOO

meowzer

Moderator
OK, I thought I saw something last night but BIGUN would not cooperate and turn towards me...finally today...sitting here all day waiting I was able to see his boo boo...and actually get a pic
. I used my magnifying glass, and nothing is moving...it just looks like a scrape
...he is eating great, and acting perfect...what do you guys think?
https://forums.saltwaterfish.com/data/9/96/96fa2c79_vbattach225674.jpg
https://forums.saltwaterfish.com/data/b/b4/b44e2a6e_vbattach225675.jpg
https://forums.saltwaterfish.com/data/f/fc/fc029391_vbattach225676.jpg
https://forums.saltwaterfish.com/data/d/dd/dd5a62ac_vbattach225677.jpg


 

teresaq

Active Member
That dosent look good. He may need antibiotics. Do you have any meds on hand?? Do you have a qt tank?? you should get him in QT and drop the temp to 64 degrees so it will slow down any infection.
I will see if I can get ann or reefnut to come take a look.
 

meowzer

Moderator
Originally Posted by TeresaQ
http:///forum/post/3052629
That dosent look good. He may need antibiotics. Do you have any meds on hand?? Do you have a qt tank?? you should get him in QT and drop the temp to 64 degrees so it will slow down any infection.
I will see if I can get ann or reefnut to come take a look.
Like what...I have neosporin..melafix...pimafix...
I have a 10G I could set up if I need to....I could use water from the 54 and just do a w/c.....
I was hoping it was just a scrape

What do you think it could be...he is acting fine and fat as can be
 

meowzer

Moderator
OK...I quickly put together some water...it is mixing....Good thing I keep 10 g's of ro made up
I also have a 5g...if you think that would be better
Both are from FW fish, but are clean....They have no special lighting, and standard filters that come with store bought kits....
 

teresaq

Active Member
thats fine, I would use the ten. you dont need anything fancy. Get him in there and drop the temp with a fan. It looks like tail rot to me. Can you get your hands on Furan 2. If not pm me. You may also need some bio-bandage
You may also need bio bandage. Wait and see on that one.
Its good he is still eatting good.
T
 

meowzer

Moderator
Originally Posted by TeresaQ
http:///forum/post/3052650
thats fine, I would use the ten. you dont need anything fancy. Get him in there and drop the temp with a fan. It looks like tail rot to me. Can you get your hands on Furan 2. If not pm me. You may also need some bio-bandage
You may also need bio bandage. Wait and see on that one.
Its good he is still eatting good.
T
And I put some selcon and zoecon on his food today too....
TAIL ROT

You know I have to order everything....
 

spanko

Active Member
Sorry to hear about your seahorse. I am following along because I love these creatures, but know very little about them and their upkeep. I hope you can get a handle on the problem.
 

meowzer

Moderator
I found a place that has furan 2 and bio bandage...will still have to wait to get it though...I am getting the 10g out now and re-cleaning it...anything else that I should order...even if I get it as a just in case
HOW does this happen
He's the big fat one too
 

teresaq

Active Member
Is there any posible way he could have gotten stung, or burned. Could have scraped it and bacteria got in.
T
 

meowzer

Moderator
Originally Posted by TeresaQ
http:///forum/post/3052666
Is there any posible way he could have gotten stung, or burned. Could have scraped it and bacteria got in.
T
Stung or burned by what...the frogspawn
I hate to say this...cause I know they are listed as bad, but I have seen the horses hanging by the fs and never being bothered
SO I seriously doubt it could be that, and that would have to be the only questionable thing I have
The thing is, it doesn't look infected...I looked and looked for a long time today with a magnifying glass...it doesn't seem to have any type of oozing, and I am 99.9% sure there is nothing crawling on it
 

reefnutpa

Member
I'll try to help the best I can. Ann is MUCH MUCH MUCH better at treatments and ill seahorses than I am. But I do have treatment info and the handy, dandy treatment book for seahorse diseases that was written by some very knowledgeable people. Until Ann shows up, this is my opinion...... (Ann, feel free to correct anything I type if it's wrong or outdated treatments)First, it's very important to check the rest of the body - especially the chest and pouch areas for any signs of discoloration from the norm. If it's a 'flesh eating' bacteria, symptoms sometimes appear elsewhere on the body.
Since the tails of seahorses drag about the substrate, rock, etc and are rather sensitive on the undersides it's possible there was a simple cut/scrape that is now infected - or as Teresa mentioned it could be the beginning of tail rot.
Tail rot is usually seen in tanks that are kept too warm (ie: above 74F). I won't go into the whys and hows because I could talk till I'm blue in the face and people who disagree with me will still argue LOL.
At this point, as Teresa mentioned, I would get the seahorse in a 10 gal QT tank and lower the tank to 68F to slow the reproduction of the bacteria. If you feel it's an infected scratch, you can apply Bio-Bandage as a topical treatment to see if there is any improvement and check for improvement or worsening over the next couple days. If your tank is normally running a bit on the warm side, I would tend to say it's probably not a scratch. In that case, I personally would still use Bio-Bandage but I'd also treat the QT tank with Neomycin and
Triple Sulfa.
Neomycin Dosage
:
Day 1:
Add 2ml
of liquid Neomycin to 1 cup of hospital tank water. (or 400mg of powdered Neomycin)
Pour into a high flow area of the hospital tank (ie: filter output, etc).
DAYS 2 – 10 of Treatment
Do a 50% water change each day. After the water change, add 1 ml
of liquid Neomycin (or 200mg of powdered Neomycin) to 1 cup of hospital tank water and pour into a high-flow area of the hospital tank.
Triple Sulfa Dosage
:
DAY 1 of Treatment
Completely mix the medication with about 1 cup of hospital tank water. Use recommended dosage on package for 10 gal tank. Pour the mixture into a high-flow area of the hospital tank.
DAYS 2 – 10 of Treatment
After the daily 50% water change that was already done when dosing the Neomycin...completely mix packages recommended dose for 10 gal tank with 1 cup of hospital tank water. Pour into high flow area of the hospital tank.
Note: DO NOT STOP TREATMENT FOR ANY REASON (whether it appears to be working or not) FOR THE FULL 10 DAYS.
P.S. - Get that frogspawn outta the tank! :)
 

meowzer

Moderator
OK...thanks....I got a window a/c unit to keep room cool a few weeks ago...since then my tank runs 74-75....It started to run 78+....and + but I got the unit right away
I have studied BIGUN for a long long time today with magnifying glass...There are no other markings anywhere at all on him...pouch looks fine.
Is neomycin the same as bio-bandage....when I searched it at a certain supplier, bio bandage came up????
FS is now in my 29G
 

meowzer

Moderator
OK...10g is re-sanitized....MY new sw to put in 54g is mixed...(sort of) I usually mix it longer...so I am not sure....should I wait until tomorrow to do this?
ALSO...will the horse get shocked going from 75 temp to 60 something...I have ro ice in the freezer already made, and more in the making to make tank as cool as possible
 

teresaq

Active Member
drop the temp slowly over several hours. not too fast.
getting him in a qt tank and dropping the temp will slow the bacteria until you can get meds.
TeresaQ
 

reefnutpa

Member
I don't think it will be disasterous waiting until tomorrow. To clarify the hospital tank temperature...... the temp should be the same as the main tank to start and then slowly lowered down to 68F over the course of 24 hours.
So at this point, don't drop the temp yet until the seahorse is in the tank. Hopefully by tomorrow morning Ann should see this thread (crossing fingers) and will give you further advise.
Tom
 

meowzer

Moderator
Originally Posted by ReefNutPA
http:///forum/post/3052723
I don't think it will be disasterous waiting until tomorrow. To clarify the hospital tank temperature...... the temp should be the same as the main tank to start and then slowly lowered down to 68F over the course of 24 hours.
So at this point, don't drop the temp yet until the seahorse is in the tank. Hopefully by tomorrow morning Ann should see this thread (crossing fingers) and will give you further advise.
Tom
OK...thanks, I was wondering about the temp thing...
so I'll put it in the tank at 75...and a fan...and add some ro ice until I get it down...right??? And then I guess to keep it that cool just add more ice???
 

meowzer

Moderator
Originally Posted by TeresaQ
http:///forum/post/3052722
drop the temp slowly over several hours. not too fast.
getting him in a qt tank and dropping the temp will slow the bacteria until you can get meds.
TeresaQ
Thank you sooo much....When I first saw this last night I thought something was on it...then today when he finally got in a position for me to see...I was like
what is that.....At least I got a good pic, and was able to examine it semi close....
p.s......who is Ann?
 
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