Blue Ribbon Eel
- Thread starter goingpoor
- Start date
goingpoor
Member
Chem-Marin`s Stop Parasite helps to control parasites such as Oodinium and Cryptocaryon in a marine aquarium that contains corals or invertebrates. Stop Parasite is made from many different agents. One speeds up the fishes natural slime coat, causing the parasites to detach themselves. Another attracts parasites as a non-nutritional food source. Others speed up appetite and build the immune system. It will not harm the internal organs of the fish. 8 oz.
Recommeded Purchase Size (for a 5-day treatement):
8oz. for 30-55 gallons
16oz. for 75-100 gallons
32oz. for 125-300 gallons
During the treatment cycle, eliminate all filtration which removes particles smaller than 25 microns. Stop the use of poly filters, Chemisorb, charcoal, UV and ozone systems. Protein skimmers may be left running.
Put 10 drops per gallon of water twice daily (once in the morning, once in the evening) into the tank for 5 days. Stop Parasites is acidic, so check the pH of the tank both before and after each dose and buffer if necessary.
New fish:
When you bring new fish home, add 5 drops of Stop Parasites to the water in the acclimation container. When buying new fish, ask the store clerk to add 5 drops of Stop Parasites to the water in the fish bag
Add 5 drops of Stop Parasites to the tank water twice daily for 4-5 days after new fish are introduced to prevent stress induced parasites in the new fish as well as the old ones.
Reef Safe Kick-Ich is a water treatment for the control of ich (a.k.a. "whitespot disease") in marine and freshwater aquaria. It has been scientifically formulated to eliminate the free swimming, infectious stage of the ich life cycle while being safe for all freshwater and marine aquaria. Kick-Ich has a long shelf life at room temperature and is supplied in easy to use, self-dosing bottles. Safe for all fish, corals, invertebrates and macro algae, as well as the facultative anaerobes and nitrifying bacteria essential to biologic filtration.
Recommeded Purchase Size (for a 5-day treatement):
8oz. for 30-55 gallons
16oz. for 75-100 gallons
32oz. for 125-300 gallons
During the treatment cycle, eliminate all filtration which removes particles smaller than 25 microns. Stop the use of poly filters, Chemisorb, charcoal, UV and ozone systems. Protein skimmers may be left running.
Put 10 drops per gallon of water twice daily (once in the morning, once in the evening) into the tank for 5 days. Stop Parasites is acidic, so check the pH of the tank both before and after each dose and buffer if necessary.
New fish:
When you bring new fish home, add 5 drops of Stop Parasites to the water in the acclimation container. When buying new fish, ask the store clerk to add 5 drops of Stop Parasites to the water in the fish bag
Add 5 drops of Stop Parasites to the tank water twice daily for 4-5 days after new fish are introduced to prevent stress induced parasites in the new fish as well as the old ones.
Reef Safe Kick-Ich is a water treatment for the control of ich (a.k.a. "whitespot disease") in marine and freshwater aquaria. It has been scientifically formulated to eliminate the free swimming, infectious stage of the ich life cycle while being safe for all freshwater and marine aquaria. Kick-Ich has a long shelf life at room temperature and is supplied in easy to use, self-dosing bottles. Safe for all fish, corals, invertebrates and macro algae, as well as the facultative anaerobes and nitrifying bacteria essential to biologic filtration.
michaeltx
Moderator
Well here is the rule of thumb that I stand by and thats DO NOT ADD ANYTHING to the tank that you can not test for. I can not test for anything in that product so I will not add it to my tank that has corals or inverts in it.
There are supposed to be some that do like this one claims and people have used them and nuked there tank. I prefer a QT and treat so I dont have to worry about it effecting the main tank or have to medicate it,
Mike
There are supposed to be some that do like this one claims and people have used them and nuked there tank. I prefer a QT and treat so I dont have to worry about it effecting the main tank or have to medicate it,
Mike
goingpoor
Member
Originally Posted by MichaelTX
Well here is the rule of thumb that I stand by and thats DO NOT ADD ANYTHING to the tank that you can not test for. I can not test for anything in that product so I will not add it to my tank that has corals or inverts in it.
There are supposed to be some that do like this one claims and people have used them and nuked there tank. I prefer a QT and treat so I dont have to worry about it effecting the main tank or have to medicate it,
Mike
in my "OPINION" (in witch everything in marine and reef keeping is based on is opinion)...qting is just more stress on the fish...as we know they go though enough ---- on their way to our tanks... if qting works for u then great im happy for u....
ok ok i give in i dont know what im doing i should run out and buy a qt tank and do what you all say!!!!!! does that make you happy?????
Well here is the rule of thumb that I stand by and thats DO NOT ADD ANYTHING to the tank that you can not test for. I can not test for anything in that product so I will not add it to my tank that has corals or inverts in it.
There are supposed to be some that do like this one claims and people have used them and nuked there tank. I prefer a QT and treat so I dont have to worry about it effecting the main tank or have to medicate it,
Mike
in my "OPINION" (in witch everything in marine and reef keeping is based on is opinion)...qting is just more stress on the fish...as we know they go though enough ---- on their way to our tanks... if qting works for u then great im happy for u....
ok ok i give in i dont know what im doing i should run out and buy a qt tank and do what you all say!!!!!! does that make you happy?????
michaeltx
Moderator
no not at all I am just saying that its best to be safe than sorry I have adopted certain things that I stand by one of them is no chemicals I cant test for and I always suggest that others do the same. If its working for you by all means continue to do it this way. but there is risk envolved in it either by useing chemicals or just by placeing them in the main tank.
mike
mike
michaeltx
Moderator
in my "OPINION" (in witch everything in marine and reef keeping is based on is opinion)...qting is just more stress on the fish...as we know they go though enough ---- on their way to our tanks... if qting works for u then great im happy for u....
actually if the QT is setup properly it should be the same as the main tank for a tansition tank so there is only one set of acclimation going on so there is less stress on them.
MIke
actually if the QT is setup properly it should be the same as the main tank for a tansition tank so there is only one set of acclimation going on so there is less stress on them.
MIke
goingpoor
Member
Originally Posted by Member007
You can't really qt them, because they could die before she puts them in the main tank. If you qt them for 3-4 weeks of course... So she doesn't make a mistake, however she takes a risk... Good luck to you with your eels!!! Keep us posted!
THANK YOU : )
You can't really qt them, because they could die before she puts them in the main tank. If you qt them for 3-4 weeks of course... So she doesn't make a mistake, however she takes a risk... Good luck to you with your eels!!! Keep us posted!
THANK YOU : )
goingpoor
Member
Originally Posted by seannmelly
oh why dont u burry the pvc pipe?
I DID LOOK AT SLIDE SHOW
http://www79.rockyou.com/show_my_gal...nceid=62798927
oh why dont u burry the pvc pipe?
I DID LOOK AT SLIDE SHOW
http://www79.rockyou.com/show_my_gal...nceid=62798927
michaeltx
Moderator
my suggestions and comments are from experience mostly I started out with a nasty looking tank dropping TONS of money into it. I started doing my own research and seen the results for myself on what the things I suggest to do. I do not give blind advice. I am sorry if you feel that I am doing this and yes when I first started out I had a lot of corals under the wrong lighting would you like to see what the tank looked liked on my first attempt at a reef?
here it is.
I hope you dont have to that lesson either its a costly one at times.
Mike
here it is.
I hope you dont have to that lesson either its a costly one at times.
Mike
goingpoor
Member
Originally Posted by MichaelTX
my suggestions and comments are from experience mostly I started out with a nasty looking tank dropping TONS of money into it. I started doing my own research and seen the results for myself on what the things I suggest to do. I do not give blind advice. I am sorry if you feel that I am doing this and yes when I first started out I had a lot of corals under the wrong lighting would you like to see what the tank looked liked on my first attempt at a reef?
here it is.
I hope you dont have to that lesson either its a costly one at times.
Mike
IM SORRY I REMOVED THAT COMMENT I FELT BAD BUT SOMETIMES IT JUST SEEMS LIKE SOME PEAPLE ON THIS FORM ARE SO MEAN AND TRY TO MAKE YOU FELL LIKE YOU DIONT KNOW A DANG THING
AND AS SOON AS I NOTICED YOU WHERE ONE OF THE PEAPLE TRYING TO HELP ME OUT FORM THE GET GO I FELT LIKE SH** SO I MUST APPOLOGIZE FOR THAT ,BUT YOU HAVE TO KNOW WHAT IM TALKING ABOUT...............
my suggestions and comments are from experience mostly I started out with a nasty looking tank dropping TONS of money into it. I started doing my own research and seen the results for myself on what the things I suggest to do. I do not give blind advice. I am sorry if you feel that I am doing this and yes when I first started out I had a lot of corals under the wrong lighting would you like to see what the tank looked liked on my first attempt at a reef?
here it is.
I hope you dont have to that lesson either its a costly one at times.
Mike
IM SORRY I REMOVED THAT COMMENT I FELT BAD BUT SOMETIMES IT JUST SEEMS LIKE SOME PEAPLE ON THIS FORM ARE SO MEAN AND TRY TO MAKE YOU FELL LIKE YOU DIONT KNOW A DANG THING
lazypinoy
Member
oh snaps, u gotta one of those eels? u should search up this thread that a guy named SantaMonica posted up. he got his BRE eating live feeder fish. id get one at the lfs since they went on sale for 28$ bcuz they havent eaten since arrival but i have 10+ shrimp. i dont want to take a risk. lol good luck, and nice tank!
ps: i read some of ur earler post in this thread n yea, some people on this forum suk.
ps: i read some of ur earler post in this thread n yea, some people on this forum suk.
goingpoor
Member
Originally Posted by adio_54
hey goingpoor how is your clown tang? is it a good fish to get? ive heard they are realy hard to keep? sorry to ask i just love them... thanks for any help
WELL HE MADE IT THREW THE NIGHT BUT I WONT RECOMEND THEM FOR ANYONE ,THIS IS A CHANCE I DECIDED TO TAKE IN GETTING ONE WHEN I SAW IT BUT YES YOUR RIGHT THEY ARE SUPPOST TO BE REALLY HARD TO KEEP AND MORE SUSEPTABLE TO GETTING ICH,,
This beauty has alternating yellow and blue lines running down the body and a white belly. It is very active and needs lots of unobstructed swimming room and clean, highly-oxygenated seawater. It is very susceptible to ich and the aquarist should be prepared for these inevitable infestations. It is capable of instantaneous color change. For example, the head will become dark and the body pale when it attacks intruders. Like most tangs, well-acclimated, comfortable specimens may be aggressive towards close relatives. It typically fares notably better in reef aquariums than in fish only tanks.
hey goingpoor how is your clown tang? is it a good fish to get? ive heard they are realy hard to keep? sorry to ask i just love them... thanks for any help
WELL HE MADE IT THREW THE NIGHT BUT I WONT RECOMEND THEM FOR ANYONE ,THIS IS A CHANCE I DECIDED TO TAKE IN GETTING ONE WHEN I SAW IT BUT YES YOUR RIGHT THEY ARE SUPPOST TO BE REALLY HARD TO KEEP AND MORE SUSEPTABLE TO GETTING ICH,,
This beauty has alternating yellow and blue lines running down the body and a white belly. It is very active and needs lots of unobstructed swimming room and clean, highly-oxygenated seawater. It is very susceptible to ich and the aquarist should be prepared for these inevitable infestations. It is capable of instantaneous color change. For example, the head will become dark and the body pale when it attacks intruders. Like most tangs, well-acclimated, comfortable specimens may be aggressive towards close relatives. It typically fares notably better in reef aquariums than in fish only tanks.
