Bryopsis Algae
- Thread starter reefnut
- Start date
reefnut
Active Member
FranknBerry, I noticed your post and responded to it.
peasly, if you like the look of it then keep it. Personally I want no algae in the display except coraline. Just be careful that it doesn't spread to much.
Are those of you with this algae using vinegar in your kalk mix?
peasly, if you like the look of it then keep it. Personally I want no algae in the display except coraline. Just be careful that it doesn't spread to much.
Are those of you with this algae using vinegar in your kalk mix?
overanalyzer
Active Member
peasly - I'd be woried abou6 that mushroom haveing enough space to open up and grow. You could always frag the shroom off of that rock and place it elsewhere if you wnat ot keep that algea in your tank.
Before you do that though I'd do a search and see how many people have had problems controling bryopsis.
If you want something green in your tank I'd suggest some halimeda (unless you are planning on having sps corals) or maybe some manatee grass or maybe some mangroves!
Before you do that though I'd do a search and see how many people have had problems controling bryopsis.
If you want something green in your tank I'd suggest some halimeda (unless you are planning on having sps corals) or maybe some manatee grass or maybe some mangroves!
harlequin
Member
I would like to find some of that SST stuff too. My LFS does not carry it. 
Could someone send me some info on a source?
redcorsair14@aol.com
Could someone send me some info on a source?redcorsair14@aol.com
beaslbob
Well-Known Member
Originally posted by FranknBerry
those all look like bryopsis...
Maybe nobody noticed my post? Remove it and stick it in your 24 hour lit fuge. The increased growth in the fuge of the EXACT same algae that you're trying to get rid of in the main tank (which is only lit for 12 hours) will starve the algae that is recieving less light.
It works - it's a proven method. turf scrubbing is what I believe it's called.
I noticed and was especially impressed. I have no doubt it works for the same reasons turning off the display lights would work. I guess some just want to add anerobic bacteria or phosphate sponges.
reefnut
Active Member
Originally posted by beaslbob
I noticed and was especially impressed. I have no doubt it works for the same reasons turning off the display lights would work. I guess some just want to add anerobic bacteria or phosphate sponges.
How does putting the algae in the fuge and turning off the lights work for the same reasons? If you were at all interested in learning a little bit you would stop being so closed minded and listen to what people are saying. Putting it in the fuge WILL NOT help any more than the algae that is currently in the fuge. Turing the lights off will kill the corals along with the algae. WHY HAVEN'T YOU COMMENTED ON THIS Adding desirable plants do not always eliminate other algae or the need for nutrient control ? O-yea, you like to spout your big mouth off with out backing it up. I forgot.
beaslbob
Well-Known Member
Originally posted by ReefNut
How does putting the algae in the fuge and turning off the lights work for the same reasons? If you were at all interested in learning a little bit you would stop being so closed minded and listen to what people are saying. Putting it in the fuge WILL NOT help any more than the algae that is currently in the fuge. Turing the lights off will kill the corals along with the algae.
Both moving the undesirable plants from the display to the fuge and killing the display plants increase the ratio of desirable plant life to undesirable plant life. Both, therefore, starve the undesirable plant life of nutrients. Eventually you wind up with desirable plant life (in this case in the fuge) consuming all the nutrients. Some posts here have indicated that corals can go for a week or two without lights. At any rate you haven't tried so the point is moot.
WHY HAVEN'T YOU COMMENTED ON THIS Adding desirable plants do not always eliminate other algae or the need for nutrient control ? O-yea, you like to spout your big mouth off with out backing it up. I forgot.
You are absolutely correct. Adding desirable plant life does not always eliminate other algae or the need for nutirent control. Just as all other methods do not always eliminate those things. I feel and in my experience, plant life is simply the most effective.
reefnut
Active Member
Originally posted by beaslbob
Both moving the undesirable plants from the display to the fuge and killing the display plants increase the ratio of desirable plant life to undesirable plant life. Both, therefore, starve the undesirable plant life of nutrients. Eventually you wind up with desirable plant life (in this case in the fuge) consuming all the nutrients. Some posts here have indicated that corals can go for a week or two without lights. At any rate you haven't tried so the point is moot.
My fuge is full of "desirable" plant life. The ratio is in place. I will not starve my corals of light. There is no need to.
Originally posted by beaslbob
You are absolutely correct. Adding desirable plant life does not always eliminate other algae or the need for nutirent control. Just as all other methods do not always eliminate those things. I feel and in my experience, plant life is simply the most effective.
This is the first time you have mentioned they are not a magical cure. If plants were the most effective I would NOT have algae in the display. and your half cocked experience means nothing.
reefnut
Active Member
Your right FranknBerry, my bad. I can not say it will not work because I have not tried it. I'll admit my knowledge of algae consumption is very limited but I just do not "understand" how bryopsis in the fuge would be any different than caleurpa. Maybe it is.
As far as the Bob bashing... I bash Bobs methods because they are in most cases one sided and in most cases can cause more harm then good. The fact is there are a great number of different methods that work in our hobby but one needs to know the pros and cons of each to make an educated decision on what will work best for them. I do not agree with blindly telling people all they need is macro algae, all tap water is fine for your tank, water changes are detrimental, RO/DI water is bad... and others... because as a general statement these are false. Bob has made a point of making these statements without backing them with any information. I make no apologies on my stance with Bob and will continue to challenge these statements.
As far as the Bob bashing... I bash Bobs methods because they are in most cases one sided and in most cases can cause more harm then good. The fact is there are a great number of different methods that work in our hobby but one needs to know the pros and cons of each to make an educated decision on what will work best for them. I do not agree with blindly telling people all they need is macro algae, all tap water is fine for your tank, water changes are detrimental, RO/DI water is bad... and others... because as a general statement these are false. Bob has made a point of making these statements without backing them with any information. I make no apologies on my stance with Bob and will continue to challenge these statements.
reefnut
Active Member
Originally posted by FranknBerry
"The views expressed in the previous post fly against the conventional wisdom of experts in the saltwater field. Beaslbob is an experienced freshwater tank hobbyist who is applying 1970's planted freshwater aquarium techniques to saltwater. If you are looking to replicate a freshwater planted aquarium but house marine fish - you are welcome to heed his advice. If you are looking to recreate an actual slice of the ocean - I suggest you look elsewhere for advice"
lol, that sums it up...
rolangunslinger
Member
After reading most of his posts, God only knows why I feel compelled to post here and (gasp) uphold what Beaslbob has posted.
BUT!! It does make sense that if you have a problem with a certain algae...bryopsis? whatever. If you put the same problem algae in the fuge, which has a greater water throughput (by volume x time) than the main tank, the fuge algae will use up most of the nutrients that would normally feed that tank algae.
I have read and heard from the beginning, that in order to fix an algae problem that your fuge needs to starve the tank algae. Am I wrong in this or does what he posted make sense?
Thanks
Kevin
P.S. Please correct me if I am wrong
BUT!! It does make sense that if you have a problem with a certain algae...bryopsis? whatever. If you put the same problem algae in the fuge, which has a greater water throughput (by volume x time) than the main tank, the fuge algae will use up most of the nutrients that would normally feed that tank algae.
I have read and heard from the beginning, that in order to fix an algae problem that your fuge needs to starve the tank algae. Am I wrong in this or does what he posted make sense?
Thanks
Kevin
P.S. Please correct me if I am wrong
harlequin
Member
I have been following this and finally understood what this whole thing was about thanks to the guy above me heheh. For some reason I kept thinking "why remove something and then put it back in the system.?" I have used the same approach unintentionally in my 65's refugium and even though the macro algae is dying off for some reason there is craploads of hair. Unfortunately this nasty maroon sline algae is moving into the main tank somehow and I dont know how to stop it
Hoping to get a line to some of that SST that was talked about, hint hint, email me someone on how to get some. Thanks.
Hoping to get a line to some of that SST that was talked about, hint hint, email me someone on how to get some. Thanks.
reefnut
Active Member
Harlequin, the "nasty maroon sline algae" could be cyno bacteria!!
Something I've learned since the beginning of this thread... Bryopsis (and hair algae probably) are thought to produce their own nutrients by capturing particles. After the particles are captured they decompose and feed the algae... true... sound logical but I'm not sure. Anyway, blowing off the algae will help prevent this.
There was a thread a while back from Mike on his hair algae problem. Something that stuck with me is he had a fuge but still had a major hair algae problem. His thoughts were that the nutrients were being used up by the hair algae in the tank before making it to the fuge... therefore eliminating the effectiveness of the fuge to starve out the algae.
Something I've learned since the beginning of this thread... Bryopsis (and hair algae probably) are thought to produce their own nutrients by capturing particles. After the particles are captured they decompose and feed the algae... true... sound logical but I'm not sure. Anyway, blowing off the algae will help prevent this.
There was a thread a while back from Mike on his hair algae problem. Something that stuck with me is he had a fuge but still had a major hair algae problem. His thoughts were that the nutrients were being used up by the hair algae in the tank before making it to the fuge... therefore eliminating the effectiveness of the fuge to starve out the algae.
dreeves
Active Member
Bob...hehehe
Harley...
Hair algae is an opportunistic algae...when it is starved of the needed nutrients...it dies...and decays creating more nutrients to grow again...
You have to break that cycle in your tank with multiple water changes using RO/DI water, and a cleanup crew (snails) to consume what does grow, which it will most likely always be present in a system...check your lighting quality (bulb age), feeding regime, any other issues which may be contributing to the growth, phosphates and nitrates.
Hair algae can be whooped back into control...it takes a little time, lots of salt mix and close monitoring...
Harley...
Hair algae is an opportunistic algae...when it is starved of the needed nutrients...it dies...and decays creating more nutrients to grow again...
You have to break that cycle in your tank with multiple water changes using RO/DI water, and a cleanup crew (snails) to consume what does grow, which it will most likely always be present in a system...check your lighting quality (bulb age), feeding regime, any other issues which may be contributing to the growth, phosphates and nitrates.
Hair algae can be whooped back into control...it takes a little time, lots of salt mix and close monitoring...
harlequin
Member
I have been fighting this hair algae problem with all the things you mentioned and more for the last 8 months. Nothing works. My 65 is clear and i do the exact same things to it as I do my 55 which looks like a chia-tank.
SST sounds perfect for what I need as a last ditch effort.
SST sounds perfect for what I need as a last ditch effort.