Building my 150 Gallon U-shaped Room Divider Tank
- Thread starter benztech858
- Start date
spanko
Active Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1Snapple http:///forum/thread/383277/building-my-150-gallon-u-shaped-room-divider-tank/40#post_3362076
or DIY.
I prefer DIY, you can sunrise, sunset, different colors/ shades/ hues.
And it's much cheaper. And i believe they use high power 1W LED's as opposed to 3W high power LEDs
AI uses 3 watt Cree. Cool white, blue and royal blue. That is on their Super Blue module.
Originally Posted by 1Snapple http:///forum/thread/383277/building-my-150-gallon-u-shaped-room-divider-tank/40#post_3362076
or DIY.
I prefer DIY, you can sunrise, sunset, different colors/ shades/ hues.
And it's much cheaper. And i believe they use high power 1W LED's as opposed to 3W high power LEDs
AI uses 3 watt Cree. Cool white, blue and royal blue. That is on their Super Blue module.
spanko
Active Member
1Snapple I will post this then I will stop hijacking the posters thread. Not just a thunderstorm with this fixture it is the basics that are incredible.
Reduced Energy
The AI modules are some of the most efficient lighting products on the market. Because of the lower energy consumption, an AI module will realize over a 1/3 savings when compared to the equivalent us of a low output metal halide (250W) bulb.
No Heat Increase
The AI shows less than a 1 degree water temperature increase over a 12 hour period. A low output metal halide (250W) bulb in the same configuration shows an increase of over 15 degrees. Because of this, it is unlikely that aquarists will have to use chillers when running AI modules resulting in substantial savings from equipment purchases and energy consumption.
Over 8 Times Longer Life
The AI’s modules are rated for over 50,000 hours providing for years of maintenance free and environmentally friendly use. Metal Halides require costly annual replacements due to deteriorating output and unpredictable color drift.
Built in the USA
Every AI product is made with high quality components. We assemble each unit at the AI headquarters and have been doing so since 2007. We test all critical components in-house including a PAR output, heat output, and electricity consumption test after a 24 hour burn in period for each module to ensure that each AI module is of the highest quality.
Specifications:
LEDs:
Array: * 8 Triple Lenses ( (2W x 1B) * 8) = 24 LEDs total
White:
* Quantity: 8
* Cree: XPGWHT-L1
* Correlated Color Temperature (CCT): 6500K White LED Wavelength
Blue:
* Quantity: 16
* Cree: XPEBLU-L1
* Dominate Wavelength: 470nm Blue LED Wavelength
Module DIMENSIONS:
Length: * 11.875 inches
Width: * 5.375 inches
Height: * 2.35 inches
Weight: * 4.125 pounds
Power Supply:
Power Output: * 72W
Universal Input Range: * 100 to 240VAC / 50-60Hz
AC Cable Length: * 6 ft
DC Cable Length: * 10 ft
AC Connector: * IEC 320 Inlet Dimensions (L x W x H): * 4.6 x 2.1 x 1.25 in.
Weight: * 10 ounces
Regulatory Compliance (meets requirements/limits): * UL, CE, & RoHS†
Reduced Energy
The AI modules are some of the most efficient lighting products on the market. Because of the lower energy consumption, an AI module will realize over a 1/3 savings when compared to the equivalent us of a low output metal halide (250W) bulb.
No Heat Increase
The AI shows less than a 1 degree water temperature increase over a 12 hour period. A low output metal halide (250W) bulb in the same configuration shows an increase of over 15 degrees. Because of this, it is unlikely that aquarists will have to use chillers when running AI modules resulting in substantial savings from equipment purchases and energy consumption.
Over 8 Times Longer Life
The AI’s modules are rated for over 50,000 hours providing for years of maintenance free and environmentally friendly use. Metal Halides require costly annual replacements due to deteriorating output and unpredictable color drift.
Built in the USA
Every AI product is made with high quality components. We assemble each unit at the AI headquarters and have been doing so since 2007. We test all critical components in-house including a PAR output, heat output, and electricity consumption test after a 24 hour burn in period for each module to ensure that each AI module is of the highest quality.
Specifications:
LEDs:
Array: * 8 Triple Lenses ( (2W x 1B) * 8) = 24 LEDs total
White:
* Quantity: 8
* Cree: XPGWHT-L1
* Correlated Color Temperature (CCT): 6500K White LED Wavelength
Blue:
* Quantity: 16
* Cree: XPEBLU-L1
* Dominate Wavelength: 470nm Blue LED Wavelength
Module DIMENSIONS:
Length: * 11.875 inches
Width: * 5.375 inches
Height: * 2.35 inches
Weight: * 4.125 pounds
Power Supply:
Power Output: * 72W
Universal Input Range: * 100 to 240VAC / 50-60Hz
AC Cable Length: * 6 ft
DC Cable Length: * 10 ft
AC Connector: * IEC 320 Inlet Dimensions (L x W x H): * 4.6 x 2.1 x 1.25 in.
Weight: * 10 ounces
Regulatory Compliance (meets requirements/limits): * UL, CE, & RoHS†
spanko
Active Member
Yup there is another thread going on about DIY lighting you should check out. IMO the cost when all is said and done is really not that much different when you consider the controller and programming.
But some like to have the satisfaction of building their own.
Different strokes is what makes the world go round!!
But some like to have the satisfaction of building their own.
Different strokes is what makes the world go round!!
2quills
Well-Known Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by Superman http:///forum/thread/383277/building-my-150-gallon-u-shaped-room-divider-tank/40#post_3362203
so here's where I'm confused, it costs ~$600 for one AI unit that is 12 inches long and 72W. but how many of these are you going to need for a 150-200 gallon aquarium.
Typically you'd be looking at around 4 modules for good coverage on a tank that size. Or you can DIY it for half the price, with more leds/output and still have enough leftover for a low end profilux controler (just under $300) and still get the whole thunderstorm and randome cloud coverage effect as well as other added benefits of those controlers. Pluss depending on how you build it you can swap out leds reletively easy if you wish to experiment with different colored leds and such as well as changing out optics if you wish to move the fixture to another tank. Just a little more flexibility going DIY imo. Nothing against A.I. they are deffinately nice fixtures from what I can tell.
Originally Posted by Superman http:///forum/thread/383277/building-my-150-gallon-u-shaped-room-divider-tank/40#post_3362203
so here's where I'm confused, it costs ~$600 for one AI unit that is 12 inches long and 72W. but how many of these are you going to need for a 150-200 gallon aquarium.
Typically you'd be looking at around 4 modules for good coverage on a tank that size. Or you can DIY it for half the price, with more leds/output and still have enough leftover for a low end profilux controler (just under $300) and still get the whole thunderstorm and randome cloud coverage effect as well as other added benefits of those controlers. Pluss depending on how you build it you can swap out leds reletively easy if you wish to experiment with different colored leds and such as well as changing out optics if you wish to move the fixture to another tank. Just a little more flexibility going DIY imo. Nothing against A.I. they are deffinately nice fixtures from what I can tell.
benztech858
Member
Further progress on the tank. Finished the plumbing for the sump. Began filtering water and mixing it with salt. I also poured the sand in the tank. These water purifiers take... Forever!!!
benztech858
Member
OK, so I started the pumps and everything today and it seems to be working fine. I do have a few small issues. The main pump in the sump seems to be pumping too fast and the water can't catch up, do I need more water? The pump is rated at 1000g/hr
The output from my sump is so strong that it is blowing the sand all over the place. Should I just get some flexible tubing so I can change the angle more upright?
I was considering purchasing some of those loc-line adapters with a Y piece?
The output from my sump is so strong that it is blowing the sand all over the place. Should I just get some flexible tubing so I can change the angle more upright?
I was considering purchasing some of those loc-line adapters with a Y piece?
2quills
Well-Known Member
I would say that the water level in the return chamber is a little low so I would deffinately add some more water to bring the level in that chamber up a couple of inches. Another thing that you could consider if the pump is still too strong at that point is adding a relief line on the return line. Essentially add a T in your return line and run a small line off of that with a valve on it and feed it back to the skimmer chamber. That way you can set the pressure in the display without cutting off any flow by adjusting the valve.
benztech858
Member
You were right, the water level in the sump was too low. I have ordered some loc-line pieces to complete the return line setup. Thanks for the
help.
help.
benztech858
Member
Well, the progress is going strong. I fixed the return line into the tank with a few Loc-Line attachments. I picked up 103 lbs of Haitian Live Rock from Blue Ribbon Koi the other night, check it out
