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Originally Posted by
SnakeBlitz33 http:///t/391426/building-sump-refugium-out-of-two-10-gallon-tanks/20#post_3471421
The water coming from the fuge and dumping into the return pump section will cause microbubbles. You should have it drop into the skimmer section instead, just before your baffles to your return pump.
The water coming from the fuge back to the return section if done correctly won't cause micro bubbles.....We designed Flowers that way and I ran way overkill on pump testing and was perfect.....
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Originally Posted by sweatervest13 http:///t/391426/building-sump-refugium-out-of-two-10-gallon-tanks/20#post_3471419
Quote:
Originally Posted by Richamc01 http:///t/391426/building-sump-refugium-out-of-two-10-gallon-tanks/20#post_3471394
alright. I think I may have gotten it right this time...I fell like im practically stealing your design and I hope that isnt an issue...
So i think that this is going to work. Also i plan to use the sc150 skimmer from scaquariums. They also have the 65 gallon model. Do you think that the 65 gallon model would be stong enough for my 55 gallon tank after adding the additional 20 gallon sump? I plan to have a pretty heavy load in my tank and i dont want to short myself on the skimmer.
Also im not sure about which overflow or return pump to use. do you have any recommendations?
You are in very good hands already. But I thought I would chime in.
I really don't see a need for the third baffle in between the skimmer section and the return pump section. The first two should do the job. This will give you more space in the return section which will mean more water volume to evaporate before you need to top off.
Also, the reason Shawn was asking about your skimmer, and return pump choice, is that it will effect the sections you want to keep them in. You can do a search online on the skimmer choice you made and find the optimum operating level (for example it might run best in 10" of water or 8"). If you go with a baffle that is too high you can always use something to boost up the skimmer (egg crate), but if you make them too small you can't do anything. For your return pump the section needs to be big enough to house the pump and have a large enough total volume so you are not topping off water twice a day (unless that is your objective). 10g is not that big and your first designs with multiple baffles would make your return section about 1.5-2g
The ball valve on the fuge section is good. As said, it will allow you to dial the flow into the fuge and anything dialed back will just go into the other tank with the skimmer.
Not that it is the right way but I have a ball valve on my drain line just off the bulk head from the DT. But I have the drain line running about 8-10 feet going into a fish room. I like being able to totally shut off the drain and stop any flow going into the sump for maintenance. I also have a ball valve going from the return pump to the DT. This is so I can stop the back siphon before the air hole in the return does. Not needed but I like the control. There are lots of different ways to do it. For example I do not have any three baffle bubble traps in my 67g sump. It just has three sections, sectioned off by a single glass baffle. And I have never had any issues with micro bubbles. There is a guy on here that has a sump with no baffles at all just one big sump tank, the water is all at the same level.
Have you checked into a true union ball valve?? Or unions?? I used unions in my setup just in case something needs to be changed out. Then I can remove the section using the union and redo it.
What kind of overflow are you using?? Is it a U tube siphon type or is your tank drilled?
Huh......Once the pumps are turned off and the water level drop to a certain level in the overflow box you won't get any water flow through the plumbing anyways to the sump......