converting freshwater tank to salt
- Thread starter mauler
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pegasus
Well-Known Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by mauler http:///t/397664/converting-freshwater-tank-to-salt/220#post_3547653
Whats a good CUC I could put in with a snowflake eel, lieutenant tang and Picasso trigger or antenna lionfish?
Uhm... nothing. The tang won't bother anything, but the trigger (and possibly the eel) will make snacks of snails, shrimp, and crabs.
Originally Posted by mauler http:///t/397664/converting-freshwater-tank-to-salt/220#post_3547653
Whats a good CUC I could put in with a snowflake eel, lieutenant tang and Picasso trigger or antenna lionfish?
Uhm... nothing. The tang won't bother anything, but the trigger (and possibly the eel) will make snacks of snails, shrimp, and crabs.
silverado61
Well-Known Member
A 135g needs at least 2700gph of flow. You've got 2600gph between the two. One more should do the trick if you place them right.
I may have the wrong idea but I'd place two of them together on one side at the top, one at the front, the other to the back to churn the water in one direction. Then place the third pump at the opposite end, in the middle, about half the way down from the top to push the water back towards the other two to help circulate the water column. Then check for dead spots.
Again, I could be wrong.
I may have the wrong idea but I'd place two of them together on one side at the top, one at the front, the other to the back to churn the water in one direction. Then place the third pump at the opposite end, in the middle, about half the way down from the top to push the water back towards the other two to help circulate the water column. Then check for dead spots.
Again, I could be wrong.
pegasus
Well-Known Member
Frequency of water changes will depend on how good (or bad) your filtration system is. As there is no cuc, you'll be relying on the power heads to keep waste suspended in the water column so it can be removed by filtration.
I'd also recommend putting the power heads on a wavemaker, because this will cause random flows and virtually eliminate any dead spots.
I'd also recommend putting the power heads on a wavemaker, because this will cause random flows and virtually eliminate any dead spots.
pegasus
Well-Known Member
Yes, it's like a timer... but many wavemakers start and stop the power heads at random, creating a turbid flow. This ever-changing flow works best at keeping crooks and crannies clear of detritus.
Macros will help eliminate Nitrate and Phosphate (which isn't dangerous to fish-only tanks unless in high amounts) which feeds nuisance algae. Depending on how much live sand, live rock, and macros you use... you may not need the HOB's.
Macros will help eliminate Nitrate and Phosphate (which isn't dangerous to fish-only tanks unless in high amounts) which feeds nuisance algae. Depending on how much live sand, live rock, and macros you use... you may not need the HOB's.
pegasus
Well-Known Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by mauler http:///t/397664/converting-freshwater-tank-to-salt/220#post_3547690
How much live sand and rock is enough?
You may have opened a can of worms with that question! LOL! A lot of different people have different theories and suggestions, but I believe the normal recommendation is 1 lb of each per gallon of water. Many recommend 1 1/2 lbs of each per gallon, and it may offer slightly better filtering capability. Fish waste and uneaten food create Ammonia. Sand and live rock houses the bacteria that breaks down Ammonia into Nitrite, and Nitrite into Nitrate. Naturally, the more area you have containing the bacteria that consume these things, the better the natural filtration is going to work. Nitrate is what many consider to be the final stage of the Nitrogen cycle, and that water changes are needed to keep this in an acceptable range. Most reefers shoot for near zero levels. The end of the Nitrogen cycle is Nitrogen. With enough sand, an aerobic zone (oxygen free) is created where Nitrate eating bacteria will grow. This zone, along with macro algae will make a tremendous impact on your Nitrate levels. I would personally recommend 1 lb of rock per gallon, and 1 1/2 lb of sand per gallon. Just my 2c...
Originally Posted by mauler http:///t/397664/converting-freshwater-tank-to-salt/220#post_3547690
How much live sand and rock is enough?
You may have opened a can of worms with that question! LOL! A lot of different people have different theories and suggestions, but I believe the normal recommendation is 1 lb of each per gallon of water. Many recommend 1 1/2 lbs of each per gallon, and it may offer slightly better filtering capability. Fish waste and uneaten food create Ammonia. Sand and live rock houses the bacteria that breaks down Ammonia into Nitrite, and Nitrite into Nitrate. Naturally, the more area you have containing the bacteria that consume these things, the better the natural filtration is going to work. Nitrate is what many consider to be the final stage of the Nitrogen cycle, and that water changes are needed to keep this in an acceptable range. Most reefers shoot for near zero levels. The end of the Nitrogen cycle is Nitrogen. With enough sand, an aerobic zone (oxygen free) is created where Nitrate eating bacteria will grow. This zone, along with macro algae will make a tremendous impact on your Nitrate levels. I would personally recommend 1 lb of rock per gallon, and 1 1/2 lb of sand per gallon. Just my 2c...
pegasus
Well-Known Member
No, you don't have to buy all of it live. It's far cheaper to buy dry and cure it yourself. The advantage to buying everything live is that it speeds up the cycling process. If you want to save a ton of cash and are in no hurry, I suggest using dry. Adding some live rock and "seeding" the sand with live sand will speed up the process. It can take a month, sometimes more, for the cycle to complete. Do not rush things if this is how you plan to do things. A little patience in the beginning will be rewarded with years of enjoyment (with the occasional "bump in the road")...
pegasus
Well-Known Member
After everything is set up, add a little fish food (ghost feed) daily OR drop a small piece of shrimp in the tank. This will cause an Ammonia spike. Check the water every couple of days to see when Ammonia level falls to zero. Then test for Nitrite. If/when it's zero also, the tank should have cycled. It's probably best to wait another week or so because you'll likely have a diatom bloom. This is common, and it will go away on it's own. Hard to say how long it will take, as it depends on how much of a food source is available. Once the tank has completely cycled (Ammonia:0/Nitite:0), it's safe to add a fish ("A" fish), even if there is a diatom bloom. It won't harm the fish, but it's really distracting while trying to view your new addition.
PS: It's a good idea to do a partial water change before adding the fish just to be on the safe side...
PS: It's a good idea to do a partial water change before adding the fish just to be on the safe side...
trigger40
Well-Known Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pegasus http:///t/397664/converting-freshwater-tank-to-salt/220#post_3547702
No, you don't have to buy all of it live. It's far cheaper to buy dry and cure it yourself. The advantage to buying everything live is that it speeds up the cycling process. If you want to save a ton of cash and are in no hurry, I suggest using dry. Adding some live rock and "seeding" the sand with live sand will speed up the process. It can take a month, sometimes more, for the cycle to complete. Do not rush things if this is how you plan to do things. A little patience in the beginning will be rewarded with years of enjoyment (with the occasional "bump in the road")...
+1
Originally Posted by Pegasus http:///t/397664/converting-freshwater-tank-to-salt/220#post_3547702
No, you don't have to buy all of it live. It's far cheaper to buy dry and cure it yourself. The advantage to buying everything live is that it speeds up the cycling process. If you want to save a ton of cash and are in no hurry, I suggest using dry. Adding some live rock and "seeding" the sand with live sand will speed up the process. It can take a month, sometimes more, for the cycle to complete. Do not rush things if this is how you plan to do things. A little patience in the beginning will be rewarded with years of enjoyment (with the occasional "bump in the road")...
+1