converting freshwater tank to salt
- Thread starter mauler
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trigger40
Well-Known Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by mauler http:///t/397664/converting-freshwater-tank-to-salt/60#post_3545406
And is there anything special I should know about the lieutenant tang or snowflake eel?
snow flake eels can ether be a great fish that leavs every one alone or a fish that will kill all your fish. just feed A LOT at least one big mel a day and eels like snakes you should see a big lump in ther belly after they are done feeding. i would feed untill the eel is not interested anymore.
Originally Posted by mauler http:///t/397664/converting-freshwater-tank-to-salt/60#post_3545406
And is there anything special I should know about the lieutenant tang or snowflake eel?
snow flake eels can ether be a great fish that leavs every one alone or a fish that will kill all your fish. just feed A LOT at least one big mel a day and eels like snakes you should see a big lump in ther belly after they are done feeding. i would feed untill the eel is not interested anymore.
flower
Well-Known Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by mauler http:///t/397664/converting-freshwater-tank-to-salt/60#post_3545409
Alright good to know and is there anything you use to attach live rock to each other so the fish don't knock them over?
Hi,
if you take your time, turn and twist the rocks that need to stack...you will feel them "lock" into place, give it a good wiggle to be sure it won't move. You can create some awesome columns and such using black pond foam, but the rock has to be dry before you can do that, meaning you can only do it with base rock, you will kill live rock if you do that.
Originally Posted by mauler http:///t/397664/converting-freshwater-tank-to-salt/60#post_3545409
Alright good to know and is there anything you use to attach live rock to each other so the fish don't knock them over?
Hi,
if you take your time, turn and twist the rocks that need to stack...you will feel them "lock" into place, give it a good wiggle to be sure it won't move. You can create some awesome columns and such using black pond foam, but the rock has to be dry before you can do that, meaning you can only do it with base rock, you will kill live rock if you do that.
flower
Well-Known Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by mauler http:///t/397664/converting-freshwater-tank-to-salt/60#post_3545425
Alright and what section of the sump does this macro algae go in?
It all depends on your sump design, which I believe you are working on. My sump had three chambers...the skimmer and hose from the top display to the far left chamber , the return was in the middle chamber, and the far right chamber was my refugium section that fed into the middle return section...the refugium section is where the macro algae would go.
Since you plan on a FOWLR...There are also decorative macros that can go right into the display, giving color and contrast to the rocks, but tangs have a habit of eating it up, so you would have to get something they wouldn't find yummy. You would have to do a little homework to see which macros those would be, and if you like the look of them. Check out Golf Coast Ecosystems
Originally Posted by mauler http:///t/397664/converting-freshwater-tank-to-salt/60#post_3545425
Alright and what section of the sump does this macro algae go in?
It all depends on your sump design, which I believe you are working on. My sump had three chambers...the skimmer and hose from the top display to the far left chamber , the return was in the middle chamber, and the far right chamber was my refugium section that fed into the middle return section...the refugium section is where the macro algae would go.
Since you plan on a FOWLR...There are also decorative macros that can go right into the display, giving color and contrast to the rocks, but tangs have a habit of eating it up, so you would have to get something they wouldn't find yummy. You would have to do a little homework to see which macros those would be, and if you like the look of them. Check out Golf Coast Ecosystems
geridoc
Well-Known Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by mauler http:///t/397664/converting-freshwater-tank-to-salt/60#post_3545442
That's where I thought it would go just wanted to make sure and yeah I'll check it out. And also what can you tell me about the reverse osmosis and overflow box?
Reverse osmosis is a water treatment procedure that removes dissolved contaminants in the water. Most typically, reverse osmosis is combined with deionizing cartridges to produce reverse osmosis-deionized water, abbreviated as RODI. It is important to use this kind of water because as tank water evaporates it leaves salt behind, so the salinity increases. To prevent this it is necessary to add water to make-up for evaporation. However, tap water, while having contaminant levels below toxic, if used to make-up for evaporation, will also evaporate, leaving the contaminants behind. Gradually, the contamination level increases until it becomes a problem. Tap water also has silicates and phosphates in it, which will support undesirable algae growth and diatom infestation. You can make you own RODI with apurchased unit, or buy at at some lfs as well as at WalMart. If you system is onb the large size I would spring for the RODI-genrating unit since the per gallon cost will turn out to be lower in the long run.
The overflow box is one of the ways to move tank water into an external sump. There are many types, each with its advantages and disadvantages. My large tank has bypassed the overflow box completely by having drains drilled out on the bottom of the tank (so called "reef ready"). My 40 gallon unit was not reef-ready, but I drilled a hole and fitted an internal drain that I got from glass-holes.com (they sell kits, drill bit, drain, builkhead fitting and all in kits). You can find overflow systems on almost any aquarium supply web site, including this one.
Originally Posted by mauler http:///t/397664/converting-freshwater-tank-to-salt/60#post_3545442
That's where I thought it would go just wanted to make sure and yeah I'll check it out. And also what can you tell me about the reverse osmosis and overflow box?
Reverse osmosis is a water treatment procedure that removes dissolved contaminants in the water. Most typically, reverse osmosis is combined with deionizing cartridges to produce reverse osmosis-deionized water, abbreviated as RODI. It is important to use this kind of water because as tank water evaporates it leaves salt behind, so the salinity increases. To prevent this it is necessary to add water to make-up for evaporation. However, tap water, while having contaminant levels below toxic, if used to make-up for evaporation, will also evaporate, leaving the contaminants behind. Gradually, the contamination level increases until it becomes a problem. Tap water also has silicates and phosphates in it, which will support undesirable algae growth and diatom infestation. You can make you own RODI with apurchased unit, or buy at at some lfs as well as at WalMart. If you system is onb the large size I would spring for the RODI-genrating unit since the per gallon cost will turn out to be lower in the long run.
The overflow box is one of the ways to move tank water into an external sump. There are many types, each with its advantages and disadvantages. My large tank has bypassed the overflow box completely by having drains drilled out on the bottom of the tank (so called "reef ready"). My 40 gallon unit was not reef-ready, but I drilled a hole and fitted an internal drain that I got from glass-holes.com (they sell kits, drill bit, drain, builkhead fitting and all in kits). You can find overflow systems on almost any aquarium supply web site, including this one.
geridoc
Well-Known Member
I'm not clear how a valve would work, never seen one. The rate of evaporation depends on a variety of factors, including tank size and surface area, open or closed top, water temperature, etc. To give you an idea, in the winter, with the room temp at 69 and water at 80, with an open top I replace about 2-3 gallons/day in my 220 gallon tank.
mauler
Active Member
Like a hose basically with a pump that just sucks in the water from the tank down to the sump. Mines a 135 it will have an open top and I'll probably keep thewater at like 80 degrees I don't know if any of thathelps but should I just check the water every few days and add it if needed
geridoc
Well-Known Member
You never want a pump to remove water from the tank - sooner or later it will either fail, and the return pump will cause your dt to overflow, or the return pump will fail, and your sump will flood. Divorce lies in that plan. To maintain your salinity fill the tank and sump, get everything going, then put a piece of colored tape on the outside of the sump at the water line. Whenever the level falls just add RODI to the sump until the water level comes up to the mark. Take a look at sump designs online. They all are designed to prevent flooding and make life a little bit easier.
