tank a holic
Active Member
mirrored stainless steel, not sure what guage
DIY metal halide build
- Thread starter tank a holic
- Start date
tank a holic
Active Member
so usually I would guess 2 MH bulbs on the outside and one in the center... but do I want to put the third buld over the cross brace in the center of my tank or off set it to one side or the other?
tank a holic
Active Member
any other suggestions?
tank a holic
Active Member
ok i've put this off long enough
I've had the stuff for months now and I'm going foreward with the build
I've decided my setup will be this
1 box in the tank stand will house the 3 metal halide ballasts, the 3 capasitors and 1 t-5 ballast
It will be equipped with 2 4" fans to keep the ballasts cool, one blowing in, the other blowing out.
This box will have 2 plugs going to the wall... 1 for the halides, the other for the t-5 actinics / fans
the other box, housing the bulbs and reflector will sit on top of the tank with cords running to the ballast box
I have a strip of 20 moon led's that will also be in the top box with its own cord
the led's will have a timer and run 12 hrs, then the t-5 / cooling fans will kick on for 2 hours and the led's go out
after 2 hours the halides kick on and run along with the t-5's and fans these run for 8 hours then kick off and the t-5's / fans run for 2 more hours before kicking off and the led's come back on
with running the actinics and fans on the same circut this gives the fans ample time (2 hrs) to cool the halide ballast's whch run at approximately 200 deg F.
I've had the stuff for months now and I'm going foreward with the build
I've decided my setup will be this
1 box in the tank stand will house the 3 metal halide ballasts, the 3 capasitors and 1 t-5 ballast
It will be equipped with 2 4" fans to keep the ballasts cool, one blowing in, the other blowing out.
This box will have 2 plugs going to the wall... 1 for the halides, the other for the t-5 actinics / fans
the other box, housing the bulbs and reflector will sit on top of the tank with cords running to the ballast box
I have a strip of 20 moon led's that will also be in the top box with its own cord
the led's will have a timer and run 12 hrs, then the t-5 / cooling fans will kick on for 2 hours and the led's go out
after 2 hours the halides kick on and run along with the t-5's and fans these run for 8 hours then kick off and the t-5's / fans run for 2 more hours before kicking off and the led's come back on
with running the actinics and fans on the same circut this gives the fans ample time (2 hrs) to cool the halide ballast's whch run at approximately 200 deg F.
tank a holic
Active Member
Ive built the box for under the stand abd mounted the ballasts
the box with the 3 MH ballasts
there is a 1-1/2 inch gap between the bottom of the ballast and the box for cooling air to flow through
mounted the t-5 ballast (subject to be moved)
made the lid, bottom fan blows in, top blows out
box all done, except wiring ofcourse, which will be done tomorrow
I'll post more pics tomorrow
the box with the 3 MH ballasts
there is a 1-1/2 inch gap between the bottom of the ballast and the box for cooling air to flow through
mounted the t-5 ballast (subject to be moved)
made the lid, bottom fan blows in, top blows out
box all done, except wiring ofcourse, which will be done tomorrow
I'll post more pics tomorrow
tank a holic
Active Member
I should note this is a 72" fixture
I have the
3 250 watt MH ballasts
1 t-5 multi lamp ballast
2 250 watt 14k MH bulbs
1 250 watt 20 k bulb
3 mogul base MH sockets
4 water proof t-5 sockets
1 20 led moon light strip
all the wire / connections I need
2 4" cooling fans
wood to make the boxes
a custom made 20 gague stainless steel reflector from my local steel supply store
1 light timer
I believe this is everything to complete this build EXCEPT 2 t-5 actinic bulbs and 2 more timers
I have under $425 wrapped up in all this, I priced a fixture an marine depot with the same wattage, 14 k bulbs and the extra fan and it was $863.64
Hopefully a savings of 3-400 dollars is worth the work of me and my buddies that helped build it
add in the beer it cost me to get the help and its probubly even money LOL
%%
I have the
3 250 watt MH ballasts
1 t-5 multi lamp ballast
2 250 watt 14k MH bulbs
1 250 watt 20 k bulb
3 mogul base MH sockets
4 water proof t-5 sockets
1 20 led moon light strip
all the wire / connections I need
2 4" cooling fans
wood to make the boxes
a custom made 20 gague stainless steel reflector from my local steel supply store
1 light timer
I believe this is everything to complete this build EXCEPT 2 t-5 actinic bulbs and 2 more timers
I have under $425 wrapped up in all this, I priced a fixture an marine depot with the same wattage, 14 k bulbs and the extra fan and it was $863.64
Hopefully a savings of 3-400 dollars is worth the work of me and my buddies that helped build it
add in the beer it cost me to get the help and its probubly even money LOL
%%
tank a holic
Active Member
I'm figuring this needs a lens?? or not?
if so what do I use, glass or acrylic? I cant use plexiglass because of the heat.
if so what do I use, glass or acrylic? I cant use plexiglass because of the heat.
tank a holic
Active Member
I have all the ballasts and capacitors wired up, I'll post pics tomorrow hopefully
I built the box for the reflector and mounted the MH sockets and LED's and wired them all up, I tested the lights and everything works great, man them baby's are bright
I put the middle bulb (20k) offset so the socket is 2 inches to the side of my center brace on the tank so the heat will not effect it
I cant mount the t-5 sockets yet until I get the bulbs....
I think they are 34" from the end of the pin to the other pin but I want to have the bulbs to make sure
I cut a 1/4" slot 1/2" under the reflector for a piece of glass which I will get cut maybe this week
I made it so the bottom of the bulb will be about 12" off the surface of the water
also after feeling the top of the reflector over the bulbs I have decided to add 2 4" cooling fans to the hood as well insted of just the ballast box
all wire connections are heat shrink solder connectors
I built the box for the reflector and mounted the MH sockets and LED's and wired them all up, I tested the lights and everything works great, man them baby's are bright
I put the middle bulb (20k) offset so the socket is 2 inches to the side of my center brace on the tank so the heat will not effect it
I cant mount the t-5 sockets yet until I get the bulbs....
I think they are 34" from the end of the pin to the other pin but I want to have the bulbs to make sure
I cut a 1/4" slot 1/2" under the reflector for a piece of glass which I will get cut maybe this week
I made it so the bottom of the bulb will be about 12" off the surface of the water
also after feeling the top of the reflector over the bulbs I have decided to add 2 4" cooling fans to the hood as well insted of just the ballast box
all wire connections are heat shrink solder connectors
tank a holic
Active Member
mounted the capasitors
got everything wired up
ran the pig tails out (blue = t-5) (red's MH)
Beta testing... looks good, all lit up and never got shocked
making hood for the reflector
got everything wired up
ran the pig tails out (blue = t-5) (red's MH)
Beta testing... looks good, all lit up and never got shocked
making hood for the reflector
tank a holic
Active Member
I got the 2 fans for the hood today, haven't ordered the glass yet, also yesterday I ordered the t-5 bulbs
once they come and I get the glass, I'll finsh this baby up, paint it and get it on the tank
once they come and I get the glass, I'll finsh this baby up, paint it and get it on the tank
tank a holic
Active Member
I decided I dont like the hood, so Im getting a new piece of plywood and remaking it
small triggers
Active Member
lol,,, make sure when you get the glass you get the tempered.... that way if it does happen to crack,, it wont shatter...other than that,, looks good.
How are you going to keep the inside water proof, from humidity and such? i know the fans will help but are all your wires taped up or shrink sealed?
How are you going to keep the inside water proof, from humidity and such? i know the fans will help but are all your wires taped up or shrink sealed?
tank a holic
Active Member
all connections are heat shrink solder connections so the wires wont draw moisture
I know I cant make the whole unit moisture proof but at least I can make sure the wiring is
tempered glass is a good Idea.... hadn't thought of that
in the re designed hood, I made a slot for the glass to be removed for bulb changing
pics on the way
thanks again for all the suggestions
I know I cant make the whole unit moisture proof but at least I can make sure the wiring is
tempered glass is a good Idea.... hadn't thought of that
in the re designed hood, I made a slot for the glass to be removed for bulb changing
pics on the way
thanks again for all the suggestions
tank a holic
Active Member
so I went with 3/4 inch plywood as opposed to 1/2 inch
after completion I still feel it is not too heavy
I added a slot to remove the glass
this only leaves 1/4" thickness of wood on either side or the slot so I cut a recess on the edge 1/8" deep by 6" long, I'm going to cut a piece of stainless steel flat stock to reinforce the leg of the hood
also on the reflector there are seperate compartments for the t-5's and MH's
I felt the divider between them was too long and would keep the actinic light out of the back of the tank so I cut it shorter
before
after
after completion I still feel it is not too heavy
I added a slot to remove the glass
this only leaves 1/4" thickness of wood on either side or the slot so I cut a recess on the edge 1/8" deep by 6" long, I'm going to cut a piece of stainless steel flat stock to reinforce the leg of the hood
also on the reflector there are seperate compartments for the t-5's and MH's
I felt the divider between them was too long and would keep the actinic light out of the back of the tank so I cut it shorter
before
after
tank a holic
Active Member
cut the vents for the fans in the hood
installed the stiffener for the leg with the glass slot and drilled all holes for wires to come out
installed fans above reflector
installed led's, t-5's and wired up everything (wire nuts are just for testing and will be replaced with heat shrink connections)
Ran wires out and put on plug ends
cleaned up the messy wiring in the ballast box and color coded all wire ends
red = MH
blue = t-5
white = fans
testing.... testing 1 2
added brackets to fit tank made from stainless steel strips I welded togather
on the tank testing before paint and trim
installed the stiffener for the leg with the glass slot and drilled all holes for wires to come out
installed fans above reflector
installed led's, t-5's and wired up everything (wire nuts are just for testing and will be replaced with heat shrink connections)
Ran wires out and put on plug ends
cleaned up the messy wiring in the ballast box and color coded all wire ends
red = MH
blue = t-5
white = fans
testing.... testing 1 2
added brackets to fit tank made from stainless steel strips I welded togather
on the tank testing before paint and trim
tank a holic
Active Member
so this it the wall, stand, tank and hood all together
its kind of a before picture, I'm trimming the hood and painting the stand, hood and tank all to match the wall and trim in the room that way I figure all the focus will be on the actual tank and inhabitants
btw, skimmer will eventually go in the sump I am currently refurbishing
its kind of a before picture, I'm trimming the hood and painting the stand, hood and tank all to match the wall and trim in the room that way I figure all the focus will be on the actual tank and inhabitants
btw, skimmer will eventually go in the sump I am currently refurbishing
tank a holic
Active Member
I got the glass ordered, 1/8" x 12 3/4" x 72 3/4" tempered & rounded edges for $37 not bad, I figured it would be over a hundred.... so.....
with that and the t-5's im sitting at about an even five hundred in this build
add in the beer (for photographical purposes only
)
all in all I am VERY pleased with the results, I took the hood off to trim and paint it and put my old t-5's back on and it looks like you're holding a flashlight up to it, these mh's are amazing in comparison. The actinics make the mushrooms and my carpes anemone just POP
I dont see why anyone couldn't do this build, I have basic carpentry and electrical skill and am a half decent welder, thats all I needed to make this. The ballasts all came with detailed wiring diagrams that were easy to read and understand which helped tremendously as like I said my wiring skill is very basic. I recommend to anyone who is looking into lights to at least consider doing a DIY like this
I just wish I wouldn't have put this project off so long
Finished pick should be posted sometime this week, stay tuned
and thanks for all the help.... all of you
with that and the t-5's im sitting at about an even five hundred in this build
add in the beer (for photographical purposes only
all in all I am VERY pleased with the results, I took the hood off to trim and paint it and put my old t-5's back on and it looks like you're holding a flashlight up to it, these mh's are amazing in comparison. The actinics make the mushrooms and my carpes anemone just POP
I dont see why anyone couldn't do this build, I have basic carpentry and electrical skill and am a half decent welder, thats all I needed to make this. The ballasts all came with detailed wiring diagrams that were easy to read and understand which helped tremendously as like I said my wiring skill is very basic. I recommend to anyone who is looking into lights to at least consider doing a DIY like this
I just wish I wouldn't have put this project off so long
Finished pick should be posted sometime this week, stay tuned
and thanks for all the help.... all of you