tank a holic
Active Member
picking up the glass after work today, hopefully finish the hood
(working alot lately)
(working alot lately)
DIY metal halide build
- Thread starter tank a holic
- Start date
tank a holic
Active Member
just gotta fill and paint the nail holes and the hoods done!!
tank a holic
Active Member
thanks!
put the glass in last night, thank god it fit
painted stand, need to finish doors and put them back on
then this mother will be done!
one question though
with going from low watt t-5's that werent really adequate for this tank to this halide hood, will I be ok going with a 12 hour cycle right off the bat?
12 led, 2 actinic, 8 MH / actinic, 2 actinic will be my eventual time table
or should I cut the halides on and off at first
dont want anyone getting sunburn
put the glass in last night, thank god it fit
painted stand, need to finish doors and put them back on
then this mother will be done!
one question though
with going from low watt t-5's that werent really adequate for this tank to this halide hood, will I be ok going with a 12 hour cycle right off the bat?
12 led, 2 actinic, 8 MH / actinic, 2 actinic will be my eventual time table
or should I cut the halides on and off at first
tank a holic
Active Member
all done, just gotta touch up the paint in like 2 spots and I'll post some pics after work tonight
tank a holic
Active Member
sorry so long on the pics
led's
actinics
MH's
again the skimmer will be leaving
led's
actinics
MH's
again the skimmer will be leaving
tank a holic
Active Member
i'll try a new led pic tonight with no flash
tank a holic
Active Member
replaced my bulbs the other day... the 20k started messing up so i replaced them all
theres alot to the 6 month rule, I cant believe the difference between the new bulbs and the old ones.
Also, much to my suprise I have had no salt creep get into the hood around the glass. (knock on wood)
just thought I'd update
theres alot to the 6 month rule, I cant believe the difference between the new bulbs and the old ones.
Also, much to my suprise I have had no salt creep get into the hood around the glass. (knock on wood)
just thought I'd update
tank a holic
Active Member
So no water could splash up and blow up a bulb
posiden
Active Member
Looks real nice. I am in kinda the same boat you were in. I made my light fixture but I made it a temporay one. I have to get busy with the nice one. A couple Q's for you.
How hot would you guess it is inside you hood?
How many CFM does your fans provide you?
Are those magnetic ballasts?
Again, yours came out great.
How hot would you guess it is inside you hood?
How many CFM does your fans provide you?
Are those magnetic ballasts?
Again, yours came out great.
tank a holic
Active Member
The glass and reflector get pretty hot to the touch but the air moving keeps it I'd say around 90 maybe. I looked on the fans and can't find a flow rating so I'm not sure how much they move. Yes they are magnetic ballasts.
posiden
Active Member
Originally Posted by tank a holic
http:///forum/post/3284237
The glass and reflector get pretty hot to the touch but the air moving keeps it I'd say around 90 maybe. I looked on the fans and can't find a flow rating so I'm not sure how much they move. Yes they are magnetic ballasts.
Thank you.
I tried to reasearch how much air I would need to move in order to compensate for the BTUs generated by the total wattage. I wasn't able to find a simple answer. I am not very good at that stuff.
I haven't decided on whether on not I want to put on a glass cover. Right now I don't have one on the temporary fixture. I just have a small 6" personal fan blowing at it. As it is now I can touch the base the halide bulb screws into while its running, and its cool to the touch. I can also touch my VHO bulbs with the back of my hand while they're on. I am basing this on my old PC fixtures I have bought and they were hot. My other thought about the glass is, I'm not sure how much the PAR will be affected by the glass.
Have you checked to see how much power your drawing with all the lights on?
http:///forum/post/3284237
The glass and reflector get pretty hot to the touch but the air moving keeps it I'd say around 90 maybe. I looked on the fans and can't find a flow rating so I'm not sure how much they move. Yes they are magnetic ballasts.
Thank you.
I tried to reasearch how much air I would need to move in order to compensate for the BTUs generated by the total wattage. I wasn't able to find a simple answer. I am not very good at that stuff.
I haven't decided on whether on not I want to put on a glass cover. Right now I don't have one on the temporary fixture. I just have a small 6" personal fan blowing at it. As it is now I can touch the base the halide bulb screws into while its running, and its cool to the touch. I can also touch my VHO bulbs with the back of my hand while they're on. I am basing this on my old PC fixtures I have bought and they were hot. My other thought about the glass is, I'm not sure how much the PAR will be affected by the glass.
Have you checked to see how much power your drawing with all the lights on?
tank a holic
Active Member
I ran the wiring through a meter when I initially hooked it up and it pulled 4 amps on startup
acrylic51
Active Member
Originally Posted by tank a holic
http:///forum/post/3284217
So no water could splash up and blow up a bulb
How close are the bulbs mounted??? Shouldn't be an issue really, just another area that needs maintenance.
http:///forum/post/3284217
So no water could splash up and blow up a bulb
How close are the bulbs mounted??? Shouldn't be an issue really, just another area that needs maintenance.
tank a holic
Active Member
Bottom of bulb 12" off water
Figured better safe than sorry
Figured better safe than sorry