DIY Stand
- Thread starter scott9311
- Start date
yaksplat
Member
same here. moving from a 55 to a 120. I figured moving into a new house would be the perfect time to upgrade. I'll be owning both houses for a month so the move will be nice and slow. I'm going to be using about 80 gallons of new water and 55 gallons of the current water in the tank.
Moving a tank causes stress.
Where in PA are you? I'm right outside buffalo.
Jim
Moving a tank causes stress.
Where in PA are you? I'm right outside buffalo.
Jim
scott9311
Member
Originally posted by Leona
Hey Scott9311
What is your full tank,stand measurments? I like your idea for the the stand with the doors and all. I'm in the process with a friend to build my stand and canopy and since my sump/fuge with take up ALL room under the stand. I like the idea of the doors. My tank will be 48x24x25 with a 75g sump/fuge.
also how are the doors attached.
Leona
The framing is 48x24x37, with 3/4" plywood all the way around. The doors are just attached with hinges, with magnetic strikers to keep them closed.
scott9311
Member
Originally posted by yaksplat
same here. moving from a 55 to a 120. I figured moving into a new house would be the perfect time to upgrade. I'll be owning both houses for a month so the move will be nice and slow. I'm going to be using about 80 gallons of new water and 55 gallons of the current water in the tank.
Moving a tank causes stress.
Where in PA are you? I'm right outside buffalo.
Jim
I upgraded to my 120 from a 55 as well yak... I used all the exsisting sand from my 55 in my fuge, and also used all the water like what you're planning. It made for an easy transistion because my tank didn't cycle. I'm not going to have that option when I get my 300 though... for I'm keeping my 120.
leona
Member
Originally posted by scott9311
The framing is 48x24x37, with 3/4" plywood all the way around. The doors are just attached with hinges, with magnetic strikers to keep them closed.
Cool... Thanks. If you don't mind me asking what did everything cost? If you had to do anything different what would it be? Does it wobble at all? I have small children so that's a very big concern for me. I'm planning on cutting the carpet so the tank will be bare on the floor we are also Bracing under the house for it also.
Leona
scott9311
Member
I honestly can't remember the cost Leona, but it was definitely a lot cheaper than buying pre-made. I used 1/2" pine plywood as well as 1/4" oak glued on the pine, so the cost was a bit more than if I just used birch (which is a good quality plywood). If I had to do anything different... I would have just used the birch. It would have been cheaper, and been easier to assemble.
It doesn't wobble at all... with or without the tank on it. Just remember that it weighs if not a literal ton... close to it.
It doesn't wobble at all... with or without the tank on it. Just remember that it weighs if not a literal ton... close to it.
yaksplat
Member
Originally posted by Leona
we are also Bracing under the house for it also.
You might not need to do this. Are you running the tank parallel or perpindicular to the floor joists?
The deflection that i calculated with a load of 1600 pounds was 0.08 inches and that was at a distance of about 5 feet from the wall. No support needed.
Jim
scott9311
Member
Originally posted by Leona
I should still be ok even with the correct measurments as you put down. I will be building the stand basically around the sump/fuge. I will be adding prob 1-2" to the length.
Leona
Also Leona...when building your stand...try to think about where you will be placing your ballasts for your lights (if you're going w/VHO or MH), collection container for your skimmer overflow, and any other items you like to keep under your tank.