ecoxotic Panorama LED

2quills

2quills

Well-Known Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by meowzer http:///forum/thread/387182/ecoxotic-panorama-led#post_3407054
One kit from rapid has 48 leds....I figure we would need 3 of them....would that be enough for my tank...PLUS something called high noon..LOL...I ahve no clue what that is.....My husband is looking at them for me...since he will be putting them together if we do this....and he said it looked like it added more light and for my size tank I might need it
What is the foot print of your tank? Length x Width?
Personally I wouldn't purchase the kits for the size tank. The drivers they use are too small and you'd have to run about 12 of them. And 12 drivers = a highly inefficient fixture. Not to mention you'd probably be very close to maxing out that circuit in terms of available current.
 
meowzer

meowzer

Moderator
Corey it is 72 X 24 X 30
I ahve no clue about any of this....my husband was looking at a couple of sites for me that Shawn pm'd me.....
I did see that about the drivers....the 48 kit has 4.....so yup...3 of them would be 12 :(
 
2quills

2quills

Well-Known Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by meowzer http:///forum/thread/387182/ecoxotic-panorama-led/20#post_3407216
Corey it is 72 X 24 X 30
I ahve no clue about any of this....my husband was looking at a couple of sites for me that Shawn pm'd me.....
I did see that about the drivers....the 48 kit has 4.....so yup...3 of them would be 12 :(
This is just me but if I were building for that tank I would get
2 - HLG 240-48 B drivers.
140 Leds - 70 whites, 70 blues. (I personally would further split this up and add some nuetral whites and regular blues in the mix)
1 ohm - 5w resistors
1 amp fuses
Terminal blocks
Heatsinks and Fans
10v walwart power supply
Potentiometers for dimming controls.
20 guage wire
Thermal Adhesive, or Thermal Grease depending on how you want to mount the leds.
I would also build a case for the rig and incorporate a splash gaurd to protect from moisture.
But this requires to drive the leds in parallel strings. It makes the build a little more technical because you have to ballance strings properly in the begining to get the fixture to provide an equal amount of current to each string. Pluss the addition of fuses and resistors. But it's not overly difficult. Just a little more involved in the beginning is all.
The advantage of using 2 larger drivers over 12 small ones is a huge difference in the efficiency of the fixture. The two large ones would use a combined 8 amps (minumum) of current draw from your houses circuit as apposed to the 15.6 amps (minimum) when the fixture is running mid day at full steam. Regardles of other potential issues of running 12 drivers across the same circuit the efficiency alone is worth going with the 2 larger drivers IMO. Price wise you'll be virtually at the same cost for drivers. Plus it's a heck of a lot less power cords and wiring on the fixture itself to deal with. You're talking 2 power cords vs 12 and about 40 less positive, negative and dimming wires to contend with. JMO
 
meowzer

meowzer

Moderator
Thanks Corey.....I will show that to my husband, I really have NO CLUE what any of it is :(
I also did not like the idea of 12 drivers....
BTW...we looked at rapid led and reefled (or I should say he did lOL)
this does not seem simple....or cheap...LOL...I'm thinking over $1000 easy....what do you think?
 
2quills

2quills

Well-Known Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by meowzer http:///forum/thread/387182/ecoxotic-panorama-led/20#post_3407278
Thanks Corey.....I will show that to my husband, I really have NO CLUE what any of it is :(
I also did not like the idea of 12 drivers....
BTW...we looked at rapid led and reefled (or I should say he did lOL)
this does not seem simple....or cheap...LOL...I'm thinking over $1000 easy....what do you think?
Oh yeah, I'll probably be in the neighborhood of $1200 for the 120g, myself. But probably a little more. A comparable manufactured fixture would easily be 2-3x that much. If I really wanted to I could probably build something that works for around $800-1000. Maybe a little less. But it wouldn't be what I really want.
 
meowzer

meowzer

Moderator
why don't you build me one....LOLOL
I am thinking of possibly doing one on my 10G...as practice before we attempt the BIG one....LOL....but I could probably buy one cheap enough for the 10
 
2quills

2quills

Well-Known Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by meowzer http:///forum/thread/387182/ecoxotic-panorama-led/20#post_3407282
why don't you build me one....LOLOL
I am thinking of possibly doing one on my 10G...as practice before we attempt the BIG one....LOL....but I could probably buy one cheap enough for the 10

If it came down to it I could probably do that for ya. Price might go up though

That's what I'm going to do is a small build for my algae scrubber before I do one for the display. Something for a ten gallon yeah you could probably just buy.
 
snakeblitz33

snakeblitz33

Well-Known Member
HAHA, this thread has really taken off...
I just wanted to reiterate that I was going to go with the T5 retrofit kits and maybe one actinic stunner strip for some shimmer.
 
2quills

2quills

Well-Known Member
Even the reef capable ones I've only ever heard of them being able to sustain shrooms and softies with very minimal growth at that. My buddy has the double brights over his f/w tank. They produce a nice crisp light but even with the couple of blues they throw on there the light is very white. They have a nice shimmer. But I wouldn't buy one for a marine tank personally.
 
meowzer

meowzer

Moderator
Well on my 10 G right now I have the std 10G hood with these...The 50/50 ones....in it I keep shrooms, kenya, colt and a bubble coral...OH zoas too..and they do very well.....I just want something different
 
meowzer

meowzer

Moderator
Quote:
Originally Posted by 2Quills http:///forum/thread/387182/ecoxotic-panorama-led/20#post_3407271
This is just me but if I were building for that tank I would get
2 - HLG 240-48 B drivers.
140 Leds - 70 whites, 70 blues. (I personally would further split this up and add some nuetral whites and regular blues in the mix)
1 ohm - 5w resistors
1 amp fuses
Terminal blocks
Heatsinks and Fans
10v walwart power supply
Potentiometers for dimming controls.
20 guage wire
Thermal Adhesive, or Thermal Grease depending on how you want to mount the leds.
I would also build a case for the rig and incorporate a splash gaurd to protect from moisture.
But this requires to drive the leds in parallel strings. It makes the build a little more technical because you have to ballance strings properly in the begining to get the fixture to provide an equal amount of current to each string. Pluss the addition of fuses and resistors. But it's not overly difficult. Just a little more involved in the beginning is all.
The advantage of using 2 larger drivers over 12 small ones is a huge difference in the efficiency of the fixture. The two large ones would use a combined 8 amps (minumum) of current draw from your houses circuit as apposed to the 15.6 amps (minimum) when the fixture is running mid day at full steam. Regardles of other potential issues of running 12 drivers across the same circuit the efficiency alone is worth going with the 2 larger drivers IMO. Price wise you'll be virtually at the same cost for drivers. Plus it's a heck of a lot less power cords and wiring on the fixture itself to deal with. You're talking 2 power cords vs 12 and about 40 less positive, negative and dimming wires to contend with. JMO
OK...not sure where resistors go
not sure where you are talking about putting fuses
What is a Walwart power supply....LOL...
what are you using the amp fuses and resistors for? all the others (kits) we saw online did not have that?
anyway you can do a diagram????
 
acrylic51

acrylic51

Active Member
Looking over the parts list Corey put together Meowzer was actually what I was trying to do this morning when I sent you the PM to call me.....I was trying to conclude that the parts Rapid lists for the DIY kits are good......As Corey pointed out you'd need quite a few drivers; when there are better ways to do the job.....I'm not sure about their drivers, but definitely would need a few, but as Corey suggested the HLG drivers is a wiser choice of drivers. You could easily work with bigger drivers, which would be more efficient than the drivers they list in the kits....
I've actually specd out the HLG 240-48B drivers and the HLG 185-48B drivers quite a bit. Not sure if you really need to go with the 240-48B drivers though. On my build I'm actually looking to use the 185-48's. I'm not attempting to push my LEDs to the max though either. I've also left myself a bit of headroom which we will talk about further in the build, but depending how you want to do your build drivers can be played with.
I don't have the links will have to get on RC and find the thread and link, but there is a super thread that shows exactly how to safely build a setup and spells it out pretty good.....Also there is a Utube video that shows the process. I think there is like 5 series of videos.
As far as need a butt load of LEDs not sure that is totally true.....The typical spacing is 2"-2.5" center to center of LEDs.....So with that being said you would just need to figure the area of the tank. Proper optic use would also come to play with penetration to the bottom of your tank. Again I am assuming without scrolling back to the top that your tank is super deep or over 30"??? Again no issue with penetration to the bottom of your setup......
 
meowzer

meowzer

Moderator
Quote:
Originally Posted by acrylic51 http:///forum/thread/387182/ecoxotic-panorama-led/20#post_3407330
Looking over the parts list Corey put together Meowzer was actually what I was trying to do this morning when I sent you the PM to call me.....I was trying to conclude that the parts Rapid lists for the DIY kits are good......As Corey pointed out you'd need quite a few drivers; when there are better ways to do the job.....I'm not sure about their drivers, but definitely would need a few, but as Corey suggested the HLG drivers is a wiser choice of drivers. You could easily work with bigger drivers, which would be more efficient than the drivers they list in the kits....
I've actually specd out the HLG 240-48B drivers and the HLG 185-48B drivers quite a bit. Not sure if you really need to go with the 240-48B drivers though. On my build I'm actually looking to use the 185-48's. I'm not attempting to push my LEDs to the max though either. I've also left myself a bit of headroom which we will talk about further in the build, but depending how you want to do your build drivers can be played with.
I don't have the links will have to get on RC and find the thread and link, but there is a super thread that shows exactly how to safely build a setup and spells it out pretty good.....Also there is a Utube video that shows the process. I think there is like 5 series of videos.
As far as need a butt load of LEDs not sure that is totally true.....The typical spacing is 2"-2.5" center to center of LEDs.....So with that being said you would just need to figure the area of the tank. Proper optic use would also come to play with penetration to the bottom of your tank. Again I am assuming without scrolling back to the top that your tank is super deep or over 30"??? Again no issue with penetration to the bottom of your setup......
LOL......you are on the phoine with the man who will do the job...HAHA
tank is 30"
 
2quills

2quills

Well-Known Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by acrylic51 http:///forum/thread/387182/ecoxotic-panorama-led/20#post_3407330
Looking over the parts list Corey put together Meowzer was actually what I was trying to do this morning when I sent you the PM to call me.....I was trying to conclude that the parts Rapid lists for the DIY kits are good......As Corey pointed out you'd need quite a few drivers; when there are better ways to do the job.....I'm not sure about their drivers, but definitely would need a few, but as Corey suggested the HLG drivers is a wiser choice of drivers. You could easily work with bigger drivers, which would be more efficient than the drivers they list in the kits....
I've actually specd out the HLG 240-48B drivers and the HLG 185-48B drivers quite a bit. Not sure if you really need to go with the 240-48B drivers though. On my build I'm actually looking to use the 185-48's. I'm not attempting to push my LEDs to the max though either. I've also left myself a bit of headroom which we will talk about further in the build, but depending how you want to do your build drivers can be played with.
I don't have the links will have to get on RC and find the thread and link, but there is a super thread that shows exactly how to safely build a setup and spells it out pretty good.....Also there is a Utube video that shows the process. I think there is like 5 series of videos.
As far as need a butt load of LEDs not sure that is totally true.....The typical spacing is 2"-2.5" center to center of LEDs.....So with that being said you would just need to figure the area of the tank. Proper optic use would also come to play with penetration to the bottom of your tank. Again I am assuming without scrolling back to the top that your tank is super deep or over 30"??? Again no issue with penetration to the bottom of your setup......
Should pretty much all depend on the led count. If she were to do around 140 leds at 70 per driver she'd definately wan't the 240's. The 185's wouldn't cover the wattage. A more conservative number that would still allow her to keep SPS would be 120 leds, 60 per driver at 180 watts.. She's be on the low end of the 1 led per 12-15 square inch recommendations but still have plenty of output to keep SPS in the higher areas of her rock work in the tank. She could at that point then step down to the 185 watt drivers. This would bring the maximum available current per string down to about 780mA. If she were to do all XP series leds, I'd probably go with a 2:1 ratio of blues to whites. Have to remember this is a 30" deep tank. So I probably wouldn't come down any more on the led count then that.
Meow here is a basic wiring diagram for parallel strings, fuses and resistors are in there. Fuses for protecting the other strings of leds from blowing out incase if you have one led fail. Remaining current would be passed through the other strings. Resistors are for testing current anytime you want and come in handy in the innitial set up process of balancing the strings to obtain as close to equal forward voltage across each string as possible.
 
meowzer

meowzer

Moderator
Thanks GUYS......I have printed the diagram...and all the other info has been very helpful......my husband is gonna research where to get the stuff...and how much....LOL....and we will go from there
I thin kbefore I actually purchase anything I would like to ask you guys first though
we may purchase piece by piece too
 
acrylic51

acrylic51

Active Member
Thanks Corey!!!!! Do you know which thread it was over on RC where Kcress walks the guy through the balancing and testing procedure???? I have so many bookmarked I can't tell from a quick glance at them.
Meowzer hopefully this link works for the video I had mentioned.....
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top