Fishkid's 135gal reef build...
- Thread starter fishkid13
- Start date
impulse-ive
Member
To paint the back i went to a arts and crafts store and got a water-based paint and brushed it on. Less chance of over spray into the tank and the brushing lines give a great affect. I went with blue but they had black as well.
meowzer
Moderator
Originally Posted by fishkid13
http:///forum/post/3065171
What so bad with rio's?
It's probably that the pondmaster or mags are much better
You know like comparing Seaclone with octopus
http:///forum/post/3065171
What so bad with rio's?
It's probably that the pondmaster or mags are much better
You know like comparing Seaclone with octopus
impulse-ive
Member
It's called "Apple Barrel Colors" It's acrylic paint. I think i might have found some at Wal-mart before. It was back by the fabic section. if they dont' have it i've found it at Micheals...if you have those in your area.
groupergenius
Active Member
Your painting the outside of the tank....I have allways used whatever cheap spray paint from Homey Depot. Use some masking tape and newspaper to mask off the tank opening and sides.
C'mon dude....let's get this project rollin'
C'mon dude....let's get this project rollin'
impulse-ive
Member
You can see the results of the paint i used in my other thread you helping me with.
fishkid13
Active Member
Originally Posted by GrouperGenius
http:///forum/post/3065235
C'mon dude....let's get this project rollin'
Hhhmmmm....well I don't have a car, and can't drive.... I guesss I could just walk over to Home Depot.....
Originally Posted by impulse-ive
http:///forum/post/3065250
You can see the results of the paint i used in my other thread you helping me with.
Ok
Thanks everyone so far. Any other comments, questions, ransomes, complantes???
http:///forum/post/3065235
C'mon dude....let's get this project rollin'
Hhhmmmm....well I don't have a car, and can't drive.... I guesss I could just walk over to Home Depot.....
Originally Posted by impulse-ive
http:///forum/post/3065250
You can see the results of the paint i used in my other thread you helping me with.
Ok
Thanks everyone so far. Any other comments, questions, ransomes, complantes???
jj_harrison
Member
if you use acrylic paint on the back it peels off glass like a sticker if you want to get rid of it.
Drilling on a tank this thick is real easy get the diamond bits for what size bulkheads you have i think for 1" BH you need a 1.5" bit.... You can get the front overflow part to an overflow box and cut it in half put it in each corner and that works really really well!! put a 90deg elbow in side your tank overflow box then a tee on the back with the top caped and an airline drilled in then the pipe out the bottem. it will make a durso pipe and be way way quiter!!!!!. heres a pic i drew... put a closed loop in it too!!!!!!! you'll be sorry if you dont it looks sooo much better then having pumps all in your tank for flow and put valves as close to the bulk heads as you can with in reason so you dont have to drain your tank to fix leaks.
and use mag drives like a mag 18 for closed loop and a mag 9 for return you will thank me latter.
and lights ... goto ballastwise and get some off there and build your own setup there cheap i always use them you can do the HQI 150s for cheap maybe 4 of them would be cool and the t5 ballast are cheap but the diy t5 kits are better once you piece everything together.
Drilling on a tank this thick is real easy get the diamond bits for what size bulkheads you have i think for 1" BH you need a 1.5" bit.... You can get the front overflow part to an overflow box and cut it in half put it in each corner and that works really really well!! put a 90deg elbow in side your tank overflow box then a tee on the back with the top caped and an airline drilled in then the pipe out the bottem. it will make a durso pipe and be way way quiter!!!!!. heres a pic i drew... put a closed loop in it too!!!!!!! you'll be sorry if you dont it looks sooo much better then having pumps all in your tank for flow and put valves as close to the bulk heads as you can with in reason so you dont have to drain your tank to fix leaks.
and use mag drives like a mag 18 for closed loop and a mag 9 for return you will thank me latter.
and lights ... goto ballastwise and get some off there and build your own setup there cheap i always use them you can do the HQI 150s for cheap maybe 4 of them would be cool and the t5 ballast are cheap but the diy t5 kits are better once you piece everything together.
jj_harrison
Member
heres the pic lol
jj_harrison
Member
oh some more on drilling... make sure you have help to keep it real wet like a spray bottle go real slow with the pressure on the drill let the bit do its thing. Keep the drill real strait and square. when you go to start the hole saw will dance all over glass so cup your hand around the bit and let it slide through your hand and hold it in your palm and use your index finger and thumb against the glass to keep it in place you want the bit to be going really slow so you don’t lose a finger. If it walks a bit don’t worry about it tilt the drill a bit to the side to start a cut then work it to center. Make sure you drill the holes in the right spot you don’t want your water line too low or too high. The water will run what a half an inch above the top of the over flow box-ish and you want the hole in the middle of the over flow box. So put the overflow right at the trim or just barely above.
Its easier to drill the back of the tank cause it’s not tempered!!!
Be ready to deal with it if the tank shatters because it is totally possible!!! I have drilled lots of tanks and shatter a 55 on the first hole oh man it sucked. But the 125 is way easer not tempered and thicker glass.
Go really really slow! don’t cut your finger or hand off and be ready for it in case you break your tank.
One bit should do all the holes you need!!
Its easier to drill the back of the tank cause it’s not tempered!!!
Be ready to deal with it if the tank shatters because it is totally possible!!! I have drilled lots of tanks and shatter a 55 on the first hole oh man it sucked. But the 125 is way easer not tempered and thicker glass.
Go really really slow! don’t cut your finger or hand off and be ready for it in case you break your tank.
One bit should do all the holes you need!!
fishkid13
Active Member
Hey JJ thanks for that great infomation.
I am just going to take it over to the glass store to cut it sense I really don't trust my self and we would need to buy a dimonde tipped bit.
One question about the picture. What is with the (don't know which. first or second) the pump cloest to the tank? Just more water movement? And I have been wondering what a closed loop system is. Could you elebrate more.
I currently only have:
Attachment 226476
but black. Could I just use this instead of making a overflow box. And wouldn't it be just as effective without one? Last question. What is the job of having an airtube in the pipe?
Thanks.
-Kid
I am just going to take it over to the glass store to cut it sense I really don't trust my self and we would need to buy a dimonde tipped bit.
One question about the picture. What is with the (don't know which. first or second) the pump cloest to the tank? Just more water movement? And I have been wondering what a closed loop system is. Could you elebrate more.
I currently only have:
Attachment 226476
but black. Could I just use this instead of making a overflow box. And wouldn't it be just as effective without one? Last question. What is the job of having an airtube in the pipe?
Thanks.
-Kid
jj_harrison
Member
yea it would work but it will be loud as hell. the airline in the top of the tee is to regulate a small amount of air in the drain. this stops it from syphoning and causing it to suck air and be loud! the overflow box with a durso pipe is the best setup so it will be quite!
closed loop mean the system is closed to the tank it cant overflow. so you drill an intake lower on the tank you just dont want it to suck air and its easyer to hide by rock, but you dont want to suck sand either. then the returns are drilled in it would be cool to use a squid (current switching device). but not neccisary... you see these tanks with power heads and what not for more flow. If you just drill in a closed loop system you can have better flow and use a smaller return pump. I have always setup by this system on any tank thats bigger then a 40gallon.
I think that reef tanks should have alot of flow and smaller amount of flow on the filter. like a 40g i setup i run a maxijet 1200 moded for a ton of flow and a fluval 405. its an awesome setup. and an 80gal mag 7 return and a mag 18 for closed loop it was always a crystal clean setup!!
you can even run two pumps on the closed loop to switch and shut off for feeding. like a mag 7 for night and a 18 for day and off durring feeding.
closed loop mean the system is closed to the tank it cant overflow. so you drill an intake lower on the tank you just dont want it to suck air and its easyer to hide by rock, but you dont want to suck sand either. then the returns are drilled in it would be cool to use a squid (current switching device). but not neccisary... you see these tanks with power heads and what not for more flow. If you just drill in a closed loop system you can have better flow and use a smaller return pump. I have always setup by this system on any tank thats bigger then a 40gallon.
I think that reef tanks should have alot of flow and smaller amount of flow on the filter. like a 40g i setup i run a maxijet 1200 moded for a ton of flow and a fluval 405. its an awesome setup. and an 80gal mag 7 return and a mag 18 for closed loop it was always a crystal clean setup!!
you can even run two pumps on the closed loop to switch and shut off for feeding. like a mag 7 for night and a 18 for day and off durring feeding.
jj_harrison
Member
something like this would be a little better but unless you put the 90deg on the inside of the tank with the overflow box.
Just my $0.02....
Just my $0.02....
