Hello

marysantos

marysantos

Member

My name is Mary. I am starting a setup for a 30 gallon Saltwater Aquarium. I still need some supplies, and I was wondering if anyone could give me so steps for cycling and what's the best set up? Also if anyone has any suggestions for the stock, maybe one or two beginner fish? Then as I learn I might add more "advanced" fish. I know I should add in a cleaning crew first, and I have them picked out. Of course I'm going to order them when the tank is ready, but I am going to get a Scarlet Hermit Crab , an Emerald Crab , a Red Brittle Starfish, two Blue Leg Hermits , a Florida Cerith Snail, and two Peppermint Shrimp. I'm not sure if that's too many or not enough. Any advise would be greatly appreciated! Thank you so much!
 
gemmy

gemmy

Active Member
Hi, welcome to SWF. I would highly recommend reading the recommended threads at the top of the new hobbyist section. Can you post all the equipment that you already have? Then, we can give you recommendations on what else to get. Do you plan on doing Fish Only (FO), Fish Only With Live Rock (FOWLR) or a reef tank or are you undecided? This info will help aid us in helping get the tank set up and starting the cycle.
I would advise against the brittle starfish, especially in the beginning of starting a tank. For your CUC (clean up crew), I would add some turbo/astrea snails (about 5 to start) and have 5 cerith snails to start (for both types of snails I think a good amount would be 10 each, adding two groups of 5).
 
sweatervest13

sweatervest13

Active Member
Welcome to SWF. I agree with Gemmy, read the recommended threads for beginners. I started my SW 29g tank about 7 months ago and used this forum and relied on the recommended threads to get started. Good Luck and welcome to one of the most addictive hobbys around.
 
marysantos

marysantos

Member
Gemmy, Thank You. I won't get the Brittle Star, and I will be sure to get more snails. :)
I want to do FOWLR, but I would like a set up that I can use if I decide to ever do a fish and reef tank.
As for equipment, I have: Tank, Stand, 2 Maxi-Jet PH Power heads, A hood (but I would like to switch the lamp out for something that would be more appropriate than fluorescent.), Filter with Carbon media (I read the Carbon is highly suggested), 1 large heater and 1 smaller heater, instant oceans salt water mix and a test kit.
I have these on my shopping list so far: 2 large five gallon buckets, substrate (not sure what would be best), Live Rock, Some extra replacement filters, and Reverse Osmosis Water. (I am going to get a skimmer once the cycling is finished.)
I was also wondering about Biozyme? Does that work, or would it be beneficial at all? I've heard it is a waste of money, but I thought I would ask.
 
marysantos

marysantos

Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by sweatervest13 http:///forum/thread/383634/hello#post_3356676
Welcome to SWF. I agree with Gemmy, read the recommended threads for beginners. I started my SW 29g tank about 7 months ago and used this forum and relied on the recommended threads to get started. Good Luck and welcome to one of the most addictive hobbys around.
Thank you! I have been reading since yesterday, as soon as I joined, I've learned a lot!
 
monsinour

monsinour

Active Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by MarySantos http:///forum/thread/383634/hello#post_3356678
Gemmy, Thank You. I won't get the Brittle Star, and I will be sure to get more snails. :)
I want to do FOWLR, but I would like a set up that I can use if I decide to ever do a fish and reef tank.
As for equipment, I have: Tank, Stand, 2 Maxi-Jet PH Power heads, A hood (but I would like to switch the lamp out for something that would be more appropriate than fluorescent.), Filter with Carbon media (I read the Carbon is highly suggested), 1 large heater and 1 smaller heater, instant oceans salt water mix and a test kit.
I have these on my shopping list so far: 2 large five gallon buckets, substrate (not sure what would be best), Live Rock, Some extra replacement filters, and Reverse Osmosis Water. (I am going to get a skimmer once the cycling is finished.)
I was also wondering about Biozyme? Does that work, or would it be beneficial at all? I've heard it is a waste of money, but I thought I would ask.

If your not doing corals right away, the lamp on the endtable is plenty of light really. If/When you decide to go with corals, then you can upgrade the lights over the tank.
Most HOB filters have your generic carbon in them and does an ok job. Might want to check into chemi-pure elite and see if the 5.5 oz bag will fit in your filter.
What size are the heaters, wattage wise? Having 2 is a bonus incase one were to ever fail. You have a thermometer in there i would presume?
As far as substrate goes, stay away from CC (crushed coral) as most people do not like the negative side effects of it. You can get some basic argonite sand and it doesnt have to be "live" sand since you will be getting LR (live rock).
For live rock, you can get ~25 to 30 lbs. of live rock and then suppliment it with "base rock" to taste. The recomended ammount of rock is anywhere from 1 to 2 lbs per gallon. I went with the middle and did 1.5 per gallon. Basically, get the rock that you like that will make a good aquascape with. You might be able to get away with 15 lbs of live and the rest base since this is a new tank. The live rock will seed the rest of the base rock and sand bed during the cycle.
RO water is a plus and most sprawlmarts sell it at $.35 to $.39 per gallon. Just dont fall for the newb trap at the LFS and get "live water" at $4 a gallon.
I set my tank up in september and it took about 3 weeks to cycle. I didnt add any chemicals then and I havent added any since. I plan on doing everything as chemical free as I can. The only chemical, if you can call it that, that is in my system is the chemi-pure elite I have in my sump.
>
======
As far as going with corals and turning it into a reef tank for later on, researching the lights will be paramount. You want to get the best you can afford without going nuts. I paid $150 for my retrofit kit and was happy at the time. I then started adding corals and noticed a big difference in color between what I had and what the LFS had over their coral tanks. If I could do it all over again, I would have saved and then spent more to get better lights. As it stands now, In about 6 months, I will be replacing my T5HO bulbs with better bulbs at a cost of $87 or so.
Definatly go through all the new hobbiest recomended posts to see all the mistakes that others have made so that you can save money. If you come up with a question that you cannot find the answer to, just post it here and someone will be around to answer it.
As far as the Marineland Reef Capable LED Light 24" - 36" if its what I am thinking of, i have seen it over a 150 gallon tank and its very very dim. Sure there were no corals in that tank as it was a fowlr display at the LFS, but to me it sure seemed like an accent light and not a main source of lighting. With LEDs, a DIY would be the most cost effective but you can get premade setups out there relatively cheap. Research is king in this hobby, and I hope you like to read.
Welcome to the forums!
 
florida joe

florida joe

Well-Known Member
from the web
Set up tank with substrate and any base rock, or uncured live rock if you are going to cure it at this time. Also hook up your heater as well. At this time, do not put cured live rock in the tank. The object is to completely cycle with no die off on live rock. Add about two or three DEAD cocktail-sized shrimp for every 50 gallons of water. The shrimp can be raw or cooked. Keep good water movement in the tank by using powerheads. Circulation is important. If you are using a canister filter/other filter with bio-media, turn that on after about three days. If you are using a protein skimmer, turn that on after 10 days. This will allow excellent decay and ensure that you effectively peak your ammonia cycle. After two weeks, the ammonia should peak and nitrites should be starting to rise. In simple terms, the ammonia converts to nitrite, and then the nitrite to nitrate. Four weeks after you start the cycle, the nitrite should be peaking, and starting to fall. You should now start picking up your nitrate readings. Nitrate is not fatal in the same ppm range like ammonia and nitrite is. However, this applies mainly to fish. Corals, for example, are far more sensitive to nitrate than are fish. However, it is desirable to keep nitrates as low as possible even in a fish-only environment. Water additions and changes generally remove your nitrates, and over time a biological filter can be built up which will break down nitrates as well. Spent gases are released through the surface exchange, which is made much more efficient by using a powerhead to break the surface. After about six weeks, you should have a completed cycle, and now is the time to introduce waste-producing organisms (fish) to maintain that cycle. Also, if you now add your cured live rock, you will not have an ammonia spike killing off beneficial life. Some begin their tank cycle with non-cured live rock, and in the process effectively "cure" the rock. However, I recommend the shrimp even in that situation as it produces an excellent amount of decay and boosts the ammonia to start the most effective cycle. One thing you do not want to experience is adding a fish to a tank you "thought" was cycled with live rock only to have another ammonia spike with potential fatal results. This would be the case particularly if the life rock you cycled with did not produce sufficient die-off to peak your initial ammonia-nitrite-nitrate cycle. On a side note, this will be when your tank smells it worse, and potentially looks its worse. You still might experience your brown diatom outbreaks and possibly at least one red-slime algae outbreak. This is all natural and no sign of poor husbandry. Your tank must "get worse" to "get better". This is why allowing sufficient time to cycle is so critical.
BTW i would go with the best lighting you can afford what is your price range
 
meowzer

meowzer

Moderator
WELCOME TO SWF MARY....
Sounds like you have some excellent help already......I would look at more snails though instead of the crabs....hold off on the emerald until you have a little algae growing on our rocks
cerith, astrea, and nassarius (as long as you have sand) are great snails
 
marysantos

marysantos

Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by Monsinour http:///forum/thread/383634/hello#post_3356687
Quote:
Originally Posted by MarySantos http:///forum/thread/383634/hello#post_3356678
Gemmy, Thank You. I won't get the Brittle Star, and I will be sure to get more snails. :)
I want to do FOWLR, but I would like a set up that I can use if I decide to ever do a fish and reef tank.
As for equipment, I have: Tank, Stand, 2 Maxi-Jet PH Power heads, A hood (but I would like to switch the lamp out for something that would be more appropriate than fluorescent.), Filter with Carbon media (I read the Carbon is highly suggested), 1 large heater and 1 smaller heater, instant oceans salt water mix and a test kit.
I have these on my shopping list so far: 2 large five gallon buckets, substrate (not sure what would be best), Live Rock, Some extra replacement filters, and Reverse Osmosis Water. (I am going to get a skimmer once the cycling is finished.)
I was also wondering about Biozyme? Does that work, or would it be beneficial at all? I've heard it is a waste of money, but I thought I would ask.

If your not doing corals right away, the lamp on the endtable is plenty of light really. If/When you decide to go with corals, then you can upgrade the lights over the tank.
Most HOB filters have your generic carbon in them and does an ok job. Might want to check into chemi-pure elite and see if the 5.5 oz bag will fit in your filter.
What size are the heaters, wattage wise? Having 2 is a bonus incase one were to ever fail. You have a thermometer in there i would presume?
As far as substrate goes, stay away from CC (crushed coral) as most people do not like the negative side effects of it. You can get some basic argonite sand and it doesnt have to be "live" sand since you will be getting LR (live rock).
For live rock, you can get ~25 to 30 lbs. of live rock and then suppliment it with "base rock" to taste. The recomended ammount of rock is anywhere from 1 to 2 lbs per gallon. I went with the middle and did 1.5 per gallon. Basically, get the rock that you like that will make a good aquascape with. You might be able to get away with 15 lbs of live and the rest base since this is a new tank. The live rock will seed the rest of the base rock and sand bed during the cycle.
p>
RO water is a plus and most sprawlmarts sell it at $.35 to $.39 per gallon. Just dont fall for the newb trap at the LFS and get "live water" at $4 a gallon.
I set my tank up in september and it took about 3 weeks to cycle. I didnt add any chemicals then and I havent added any since. I plan on doing everything as chemical free as I can. The only chemical, if you can call it that, that is in my system is the chemi-pure elite I have in my sump.
======
As far as going with corals and turning it into a reef tank for later on, researching the lights will be paramount. You want to get the best you can afford without going nuts. I paid $150 for my retrofit kit and was happy at the time. I then started adding corals and noticed a big difference in color between what I had and what the LFS had over their coral tanks. If I could do it all over again, I would have saved and then spent more to get better lights. As it stands now, In about 6 months, I will be replacing my T5HO bulbs with better bulbs at a cost of $87 or so.
Definatly go through all the new hobbiest recomended posts to see all the mistakes that others have made so that you can save money. If you come up with a question that you cannot find the answer to, just post it here and someone will be around to answer it.
As far as the Marineland Reef Capable LED Light 24" - 36" if its what I am thinking of, i have seen it over a 150 gallon tank and its very very dim. Sure there were no corals in that tank as it was a fowlr display at the LFS, but to me it sure seemed like an accent light and not a main source of lighting. With LEDs, a DIY would be the most cost effective but you can get premade setups out there relatively cheap. Research is king in this hobby, and I hope you like to read.
Welcome to the forums!
Thank you for all the information! And Thank you for the heads up with the light and "live water". :D
 
marysantos

marysantos

Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by florida joe http:///forum/thread/383634/hello#post_3356689
from the web
Set up tank with substrate and any base rock, or uncured live rock if you are going to cure it at this time. Also hook up your heater as well. At this time, do not put cured live rock in the tank. The object is to completely cycle with no die off on live rock. Add about two or three DEAD cocktail-sized shrimp for every 50 gallons of water. The shrimp can be raw or cooked. Keep good water movement in the tank by using powerheads. Circulation is important. If you are using a canister filter/other filter with bio-media, turn that on after about three days. If you are using a protein skimmer, turn that on after 10 days. This will allow excellent decay and ensure that you effectively peak your ammonia cycle. After two weeks, the ammonia should peak and nitrites should be starting to rise. In simple terms, the ammonia converts to nitrite, and then the nitrite to nitrate. Four weeks after you start the cycle, the nitrite should be peaking, and starting to fall. You should now start picking up your nitrate readings. Nitrate is not fatal in the same ppm range like ammonia and nitrite is. However, this applies mainly to fish. Corals, for example, are far more sensitive to nitrate than are fish. However, it is desirable to keep nitrates as low as possible even in a fish-only environment. Water additions and changes generally remove your nitrates, and over time a biological filter can be built up which will break down nitrates as well. Spent gases are released through the surface exchange, which is made much more efficient by using a powerhead to break the surface. After about six weeks, you should have a completed cycle, and now is the time to introduce waste-producing organisms (fish) to maintain that cycle. Also, if you now add your cured live rock, you will not have an ammonia spike killing off beneficial life. Some begin their tank cycle with non-cured live rock, and in the process effectively "cure" the rock. However, I recommend the shrimp even in that situation as it produces an excellent amount of decay and boosts the ammonia to start the most effective cycle. One thing you do not want to experience is adding a fish to a tank you "thought" was cycled with live rock only to have another ammonia spike with potential fatal results. This would be the case particularly if the life rock you cycled with did not produce sufficient die-off to peak your initial ammonia-nitrite-nitrate cycle. On a side note, this will be when your tank smells it worse, and potentially looks its worse. You still might experience your brown diatom outbreaks and possibly at least one red-slime algae outbreak. This is all natural and no sign of poor husbandry. Your tank must "get worse" to "get better". This is why allowing sufficient time to cycle is so critical.
BTW i would go with the best lighting you can afford what is your price range
Wow! Thank you for the detailed instructions! I was getting a bit confused reading about it online, but this is really going to help. As for my budget, well... my husband is deployed and told me to get a hobby, so I don't really have a limit. But if I spend lets say $500 on a light, he wouldn't be so thrilled. I can save to get something like that, but nothing right off. His only requirment is that I either get an eel that can be in the tank, or a lion fish, I'm thinking a dwarf since I wouldn't have substantial room for a large one. He always likes to have one thing that's "his".
 
marysantos

marysantos

Member
Thank you Meowzer. :D
Quote:
Originally Posted by meowzer http:///forum/thread/383634/hello#post_3356703
WELCOME TO SWF MARY....
Sounds like you have some excellent help already......I would look at more snails though instead of the crabs....hold off on the emerald until you have a little algae growing on our rocks
cerith, astrea, and nassarius (as long as you have sand) are great snails
 
florida joe

florida joe

Well-Known Member
Look into
AquaticLife 36 inch T5 HO Light Fixture you should be able to get it for under $400 and it is suitable for corals which IMO you will grow to want in the future
 
spanko

spanko

Active Member
Standard 30 gallon tank is 36 1/4 x 12 5/8 x 16 3/4
A good 36" light that would allow future addition of just about any coral (even though now you are thinking only fish) would be

ATI 36 Inch 4x39W SunPower T5HO High-Output Fixture around $370.00.
If you plan to have sand in the tank purchase dry aragonite. Rinse it well in a bucket with a garden hose outside so that the pressure is enough to stir the sand in the bucket but not cause it to rise in the water column, and let the water and gunk overflow the bucket and out onto the grass, snow etc.Then empty the bucket of water doing the best you can not to dump out sand also.
I am thinking that my friend Joe is suggesting to you dry base rock with the addition of a cocktail shrimp as a preferred method in your case to help to avoid any unwanted pests - algae in that tank. I can see his thinking there and agree. When the tank is cycled you could then add some smaller choice pieces of fully cycled rock to introduce some fauna and coralline algae.
I am guessing you are not having the tank drilled for an additional sumprefugium to hold equipment, filtering media, and to provide flow so for additional filtering capability, and you will need it if you are considering an eel of lionfish, then you should be looking into a HOB (hang on back) filter to start out with. For a 30 gallon I would suggest an Aquaclear 110 around $100 to start with. This would also allow you to create a refugium down the road if you wanted to tackle that project later but would give you a good mechanical filter and also some some chemical filtration available right out of the box. (You can discuss a skimmer for the tank later when you start to add dirty, poopy fish)
I would suggest an Ebo Jager 125 watt heater at around $30.00
For water movement inside the tank I suggest a Korallia #2 at 600 GPH. This would give you around 20 times water flow in tank (30 gallons x 20 times flow = 600 gallons per hour) a good amount when coupled with the flow from the HOB filter for future coral additions. Around $25
A good start up test kit that most folks begin with would be the API Saltwater Master Test Kit at around $25
Those things mentioned would be a good start for the beginner with a 30 gallon tank in mind IMO.
Let's see what others have to input here as well.
Welcome to SWF. Keep asking questions here, be wary of advice from your local fish store as they are out to SELL things. When you get suggestions from them take the time to run their answers by the group here before committing to a purchase.
 
florida joe

florida joe

Well-Known Member
Henry I think for that price she has to buy the bulbs separate and I do believe you have to hang it as opposed to sitting on top of your tank.
 
flower

flower

Well-Known Member

Welcome to the site Mary!
On my 30g I got the linkable T5HO 2 X 39w 36" It cost $119.00 when and if I upgrade to better corals, I can just add another set, up to 6 bulbs total (3 units). Each 2 bulb upgrade costs $119.00. I have spent a small fortune in light upgrades on my 90g, starting at $300.00 and going up o $1000.00. With the linkable lights I can upgrade and just add to what I already have.
 
meowzer

meowzer

Moderator
Quote:
Originally Posted by florida joe http:///forum/thread/383634/hello#post_3356748
still waiting for lois to ask for pics
SORRY....I guess I am falling down on the job....BUT I have been busy....my skimmer had an issue and now I have to send the pump and housing to Coralvue for inspection

this is how I have been spending my snow day :(
MARY...we would love to see pictures of your set up....sorry I have not asked sooner....see I have become the picture police here
 
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