Hey all you lighting experts!
- Thread starter wattsupdoc
- Start date
coachklm
Active Member
quite honestly he would have to find the amount and biological tendencies of the photosynthetic level of the creatures he's trying to maintain before he can evaluate what level of positive light each will use from the refraction of the different frequencies, then you can evaluate the refraction of light not just in water but with the proper sg wich will always change therefore your refraction level is simply an estimate... < end rant>
But i'm definately not a master electrition.... I kinda like science though....and marine biology...
I see Emmit did a quick edit:
Tim, i think he was referring to wattsup and his unwavering support for t-5 lighting and no others.
But i'm definately not a master electrition.... I kinda like science though....and marine biology...
I see Emmit did a quick edit:
Tim, i think he was referring to wattsup and his unwavering support for t-5 lighting and no others.
swlover
Member
Yes I would like to know too..there are so many choices and what spectrum and wattage and heat etc. I would just like to be able to have a few corals, and mushrooms, but not break my budget (it's just little!) and know if my animals are getting what they need to more then just survive. I would like some one to just tell me what to get.. I promise I won't flame ya for telling me, it can't be any worse than me trying to figure it out for myself!!
I just came back from LFS and found a business card for aquatic specialists..for a fee they come to your office, house and do total tank set ups, maint., and tank reconstruction. I think we should have a forum on things like that..an expert to post what kind of lights do what and for what kind of set ups. An ask the expert type thing to head you in the right direction..Just a thought.
I just came back from LFS and found a business card for aquatic specialists..for a fee they come to your office, house and do total tank set ups, maint., and tank reconstruction. I think we should have a forum on things like that..an expert to post what kind of lights do what and for what kind of set ups. An ask the expert type thing to head you in the right direction..Just a thought.
turningtim
Active Member
Not taking sides all coach. But there are several different aspects that we ALL bring to the table. Its funny b/c what you said is exactly what I read not a little while ago. Basically it would be impossible to have the excat correct lighting for each individual coral or critter one would like to keep in a tank. But I also think it is a positive thing to have somoone that understands the power end of things and has access to the mechanical natuire of lights. Now with that being said, I also think that there are more things to consider, color temp and such. Then on top of that there is always personnel preferences!
IMHO, the answer always seems to be MH no matter what and then you must deal with its draw backs (heat and power consumption). I also think that there are diffinate trends or fads in the hobby that I have witnessed in the 2 yrs at SW fish keeping, not to mention the 20+ I had at cichlid tanks. And I'm sure you have seen more than me!
Its not just from here on the boards but several folks that I have talked to (some LFS, other hobbists) that T5 are now the trend for the time being. I would like to know why? I'm sure it will change again when something new and different comes out.
All I want is to learn and may7be help a bit from the mistakes that I have made........
Tim
IMHO, the answer always seems to be MH no matter what and then you must deal with its draw backs (heat and power consumption). I also think that there are diffinate trends or fads in the hobby that I have witnessed in the 2 yrs at SW fish keeping, not to mention the 20+ I had at cichlid tanks. And I'm sure you have seen more than me!
Its not just from here on the boards but several folks that I have talked to (some LFS, other hobbists) that T5 are now the trend for the time being. I would like to know why? I'm sure it will change again when something new and different comes out.
All I want is to learn and may7be help a bit from the mistakes that I have made........
Tim
wattsupdoc
Active Member
Originally Posted by coachKLM
quite honestly he would have to find the amount and biological tendencies of the photosynthetic level of the creatures he's trying to maintain before he can evaluate what level of positive light each will use from the refraction of the different frequencies, then you can evaluate the refraction of light not just in water but with the proper sg wich will always change therefore your refraction level is simply an estimate... < end rant>
But i'm definately not a master electrition.... I kinda like science though....and marine biology...
I see Emmit did a quick edit:
Tim, i think he was referring to wattsup and his unwavering support for t-5 lighting and no others.
Thank You Tim for your support in this matter. Coach It seems you are exactly the man I was wishing to hear from. I am only attempting to learn about the lighting aspect of this hobby. T5's are a very complicated matter and there seems to be alot of discussions with no-one having the answers to these. From what I've learned about them these are going to be my choice.
That is why I have addressed these. I'll pay later if I have to and we'll all learn. So from what your saying there is no possible way to prescribe (so to say) a perfect photosynthesis inducive environment. I did not expect there to be. But I want to make sure that I get it right with the lighting. It seems that there is alot of <voodoo> involved in this aspect and I do not like that. Also i think that the t5's will get me in an exceptable range with alot of benefits for utilizing them. there seems to be alot of people that dissallow the possibility that an optimum invironment can be achieved without the need of MH and thier high energy usage and heat as well as possible harshness it may be creating. After all is it not possible that we are essentially force feeding them with the MH's? Again I dont know. Thats why I have these questions. Maybe we could create an inviroment that is more acceptable for photosynthesis with the T5's? I dont know. It may be that MH are the only way to go I believe they are a tried and proven method of achieving results, but are they the only choice available to acheive these? My basic need is to know what it is I need to lamp my T5's with to achieve these results. I need to have an understanding of what it is Im trying to acheive in order to do this. I do not have that knowledge. Also i do not have the knowledge of the the light vs. radiation that is needed to understand and maintain my setup. I need this knowledge and will gladly give any of mine back to this board for helpling me gain this. Please understand me before you label me.
quite honestly he would have to find the amount and biological tendencies of the photosynthetic level of the creatures he's trying to maintain before he can evaluate what level of positive light each will use from the refraction of the different frequencies, then you can evaluate the refraction of light not just in water but with the proper sg wich will always change therefore your refraction level is simply an estimate... < end rant>
But i'm definately not a master electrition.... I kinda like science though....and marine biology...
I see Emmit did a quick edit:
Tim, i think he was referring to wattsup and his unwavering support for t-5 lighting and no others.
Thank You Tim for your support in this matter. Coach It seems you are exactly the man I was wishing to hear from. I am only attempting to learn about the lighting aspect of this hobby. T5's are a very complicated matter and there seems to be alot of discussions with no-one having the answers to these. From what I've learned about them these are going to be my choice.
That is why I have addressed these. I'll pay later if I have to and we'll all learn. So from what your saying there is no possible way to prescribe (so to say) a perfect photosynthesis inducive environment. I did not expect there to be. But I want to make sure that I get it right with the lighting. It seems that there is alot of <voodoo> involved in this aspect and I do not like that. Also i think that the t5's will get me in an exceptable range with alot of benefits for utilizing them. there seems to be alot of people that dissallow the possibility that an optimum invironment can be achieved without the need of MH and thier high energy usage and heat as well as possible harshness it may be creating. After all is it not possible that we are essentially force feeding them with the MH's? Again I dont know. Thats why I have these questions. Maybe we could create an inviroment that is more acceptable for photosynthesis with the T5's? I dont know. It may be that MH are the only way to go I believe they are a tried and proven method of achieving results, but are they the only choice available to acheive these? My basic need is to know what it is I need to lamp my T5's with to achieve these results. I need to have an understanding of what it is Im trying to acheive in order to do this. I do not have that knowledge. Also i do not have the knowledge of the the light vs. radiation that is needed to understand and maintain my setup. I need this knowledge and will gladly give any of mine back to this board for helpling me gain this. Please understand me before you label me.
wattsupdoc
Active Member
My mind craves for the education that you can give me! :help:
wattsupdoc
Active Member
Originally Posted by coachKLM
I thought this was interesting how some species photosynthetic adaptabilities are not constant, but the level of photosythetic activity in these coral reduce during high noon ....
So according to this chart can we conclude that at least some corals photosynthetic activies are reduced as a result of too much light radiation<(I believe this is reffered to as PAR which I was educated about by Thomas..TY Thomas)
I thought this was interesting how some species photosynthetic adaptabilities are not constant, but the level of photosythetic activity in these coral reduce during high noon ....
So according to this chart can we conclude that at least some corals photosynthetic activies are reduced as a result of too much light radiation<(I believe this is reffered to as PAR which I was educated about by Thomas..TY Thomas)
wattsupdoc
Active Member
awesome coach! TY
So.... If they will adapt to variences of light does that mean they can thrive with a diiferent amount of light than what is optimum for their species? Be it more or less and color variations as well?
So.... If they will adapt to variences of light does that mean they can thrive with a diiferent amount of light than what is optimum for their species? Be it more or less and color variations as well?
coachklm
Active Member
there is coral differences.... this you see with clams... there lieniency for light differences are minimal(no room for error) you can research the groups of corals lps..sps...ect and determine the margin of error or light difference adaptability of the groups..
eric borneman has specialized in this and anthony calfo... you ca google these names and determine what the different species require...
MH is just a safety call ...better to have too much then not enough.. . there's always shade i a tank....
eric borneman has specialized in this and anthony calfo... you ca google these names and determine what the different species require...
MH is just a safety call ...better to have too much then not enough.. . there's always shade i a tank....
T
thomas712
Guest
Fact is there just ins't a whole lot of data comparing the T-5 to PC or VHO, but you can find many a battle about PC vs. VHO.
Here is a few net finds out there about T-5 lighting.
Lighting Overview
Bulb Type Watts BulbLife KelvinRating Benefits Limitations Typical Use
StandardFluore-scent 15-40 6-18 months* 3,000°-20,000°K; actinicWide range of colors, sizes; aesthetic; efficient; cool; inexpensive Not ideallysuited forphoto-synthetic plants orinvertebrates Mini or micro reef with lowlight coralsand plants;fish only;use actinicfor dawn-dusk withmetal halides
T-5 HO Fluore-scent 24-54 16-24 months 6,000°-11,000°K; actinicLongevity, high intensity, small size, cool running Not ideally suited for aquariums more than 24" deep Reef less than 24" deep; freshwater planted; use actinic for dawn-dusk with metal halides
VHOFluore-scent 75-165 4-18months* 10,000°K; actinic Large selection of sizes;longer bulb life than standard fluorescent Higherheat - may require a chiller Reefs less than 24" deep; use actinic fordawn-dusk with metalhalides
CompactFluore-scent 9-96 14-24 months 5,000°-10,000°K; actinicLongevity;high intensity; wide spectrumrange;compact May producehigher heat -may requirea chiller Reef lessthan 24" deep;freshwaterplanted;use actinicfor dawn-duskwith metalhalides
MetalHalide 175-1000 6 to 18 months 4,000°-20,000K°Highestintensity;wide spectrum range Higher heat - may requirea chiller; possible UVradiation Reefs or freshwater more than 24" deep;photosyntheticcorals and invertebrates
Conclusion
Duplicating natural lighting conditions greatly increases both survival and growth rates of aquatic life, and enables you to enjoy it in a more realistic ecosystem. When selecting your lighting system, be sure to evaluate both the initial and operating cost. Select fixtures that use electricity frugally and will not require frequent bulb changes. It is usually worthwhile to pay a bit more for those with lower operating costs.
Here is a few net finds out there about T-5 lighting.
Lighting Overview
Bulb Type Watts BulbLife KelvinRating Benefits Limitations Typical Use
StandardFluore-scent 15-40 6-18 months* 3,000°-20,000°K; actinicWide range of colors, sizes; aesthetic; efficient; cool; inexpensive Not ideallysuited forphoto-synthetic plants orinvertebrates Mini or micro reef with lowlight coralsand plants;fish only;use actinicfor dawn-dusk withmetal halides
T-5 HO Fluore-scent 24-54 16-24 months 6,000°-11,000°K; actinicLongevity, high intensity, small size, cool running Not ideally suited for aquariums more than 24" deep Reef less than 24" deep; freshwater planted; use actinic for dawn-dusk with metal halides
VHOFluore-scent 75-165 4-18months* 10,000°K; actinic Large selection of sizes;longer bulb life than standard fluorescent Higherheat - may require a chiller Reefs less than 24" deep; use actinic fordawn-dusk with metalhalides
CompactFluore-scent 9-96 14-24 months 5,000°-10,000°K; actinicLongevity;high intensity; wide spectrumrange;compact May producehigher heat -may requirea chiller Reef lessthan 24" deep;freshwaterplanted;use actinicfor dawn-duskwith metalhalides
MetalHalide 175-1000 6 to 18 months 4,000°-20,000K°Highestintensity;wide spectrum range Higher heat - may requirea chiller; possible UVradiation Reefs or freshwater more than 24" deep;photosyntheticcorals and invertebrates
Conclusion
Duplicating natural lighting conditions greatly increases both survival and growth rates of aquatic life, and enables you to enjoy it in a more realistic ecosystem. When selecting your lighting system, be sure to evaluate both the initial and operating cost. Select fixtures that use electricity frugally and will not require frequent bulb changes. It is usually worthwhile to pay a bit more for those with lower operating costs.
T
thomas712
Guest
What are T5 lights?
T5 is simply a collective term for a narrow-diameter fluorescent light tube. Standard 1" fluorescent tubes are sometimes called T8s. T5s run from a special ballast, similar (but different) to the type used for standard fluorescent bulbs.
> Why are they better than normal fluorescent tubes?
The makers claim that certain T5s are roughly three to four times more effective than a standard fluorescent bulb of similar wattage. Therefore, they're being marketed as a replacement for the large banks of standard fluorescents used over many reef tanks. By using T5s you'll be able to use fewer tubes than before, and squeeze much more light power under your hood.
> Does the light they produce look different?
Yes, T5s produce a "flatter" light, like that produced by a standard fluorescent, rather than an intense directed spot of light like a metal halide. The light levels throughout the tank are more uniform, but you don't get the natural-looking rippling light effect on your substrate you get from a metal halide. Some reefkeepers reckon they lack the "punch" of metal halides for penetrating deep water, so many use a combination of the two types together. Compared to a standard fluorescent, they're considerably brighter to look at.
> Are they any good for corals?
They appear to work well and are fast becoming very popular with modern reefers. Experts reckon the light produced may not match that of metal halides but can still be sufficient to get decent coral growth, even in the more demanding SPS corals. The size and coloration of corals from the T5-lit tanks we've seen is very close to that from tanks lit by metal halides.
However, in very deep tanks you might need to confine the light-loving corals towards the upper layers of the tank to ensure they get plenty of light.
> Do they have any advantages over metal halides?
Fluorescents like T5s get very warm but the makers claim that they "don't give off radiant heat", so they're less likely to overheat the aquarium than halides. However, they still get almost hot enough to fry an egg on, so they must have more effect upon water temperature than the producers claim. Some can be installed within the hood, so they're handy if space is limited, or if you're unable (or unwilling) to suspend a luminaire from your ceiling.
According to D and D Aquarium Solutions, their T5 bulbs should last for up to 15,000 hours with only a 20% drop off in output. This works out at about 1250 days (more than three years) based on a 12-hour photoperiod. Aquatic Solutions claim 18 months for their "double" tubes. This is far longer than either metal halide or standard fluorescent lamps.
However, as all T5s are still fairly new and we've not seen any long-term data on how long the actual spectrum produced remains useful for corals it might be wise to wait and see on any lifetime claims for T5s.
Virtually all other bulbs eventually deteriorate and we would expect the same to apply to T5s. Indeed, we've heard that some users believe they have already noticed some minor deterioration in their bulbs' output.
T5 is simply a collective term for a narrow-diameter fluorescent light tube. Standard 1" fluorescent tubes are sometimes called T8s. T5s run from a special ballast, similar (but different) to the type used for standard fluorescent bulbs.
> Why are they better than normal fluorescent tubes?
The makers claim that certain T5s are roughly three to four times more effective than a standard fluorescent bulb of similar wattage. Therefore, they're being marketed as a replacement for the large banks of standard fluorescents used over many reef tanks. By using T5s you'll be able to use fewer tubes than before, and squeeze much more light power under your hood.
> Does the light they produce look different?
Yes, T5s produce a "flatter" light, like that produced by a standard fluorescent, rather than an intense directed spot of light like a metal halide. The light levels throughout the tank are more uniform, but you don't get the natural-looking rippling light effect on your substrate you get from a metal halide. Some reefkeepers reckon they lack the "punch" of metal halides for penetrating deep water, so many use a combination of the two types together. Compared to a standard fluorescent, they're considerably brighter to look at.
> Are they any good for corals?
They appear to work well and are fast becoming very popular with modern reefers. Experts reckon the light produced may not match that of metal halides but can still be sufficient to get decent coral growth, even in the more demanding SPS corals. The size and coloration of corals from the T5-lit tanks we've seen is very close to that from tanks lit by metal halides.
However, in very deep tanks you might need to confine the light-loving corals towards the upper layers of the tank to ensure they get plenty of light.
> Do they have any advantages over metal halides?
Fluorescents like T5s get very warm but the makers claim that they "don't give off radiant heat", so they're less likely to overheat the aquarium than halides. However, they still get almost hot enough to fry an egg on, so they must have more effect upon water temperature than the producers claim. Some can be installed within the hood, so they're handy if space is limited, or if you're unable (or unwilling) to suspend a luminaire from your ceiling.
According to D and D Aquarium Solutions, their T5 bulbs should last for up to 15,000 hours with only a 20% drop off in output. This works out at about 1250 days (more than three years) based on a 12-hour photoperiod. Aquatic Solutions claim 18 months for their "double" tubes. This is far longer than either metal halide or standard fluorescent lamps.
However, as all T5s are still fairly new and we've not seen any long-term data on how long the actual spectrum produced remains useful for corals it might be wise to wait and see on any lifetime claims for T5s.
Virtually all other bulbs eventually deteriorate and we would expect the same to apply to T5s. Indeed, we've heard that some users believe they have already noticed some minor deterioration in their bulbs' output.
T
thomas712
Guest
...continued
> How many do I need?
The number and combination of bulbs you add largely depends on what you are keeping. You'll probably be looking at four to six for the average tank, but you might get away with less if you're keeping inverts that are tolerant of lower light levels, such as zoanthids, Pachyclavularia, Leather corals and corallimorphs (mushroom anemones). If you're considering swapping your halides for T5s, D and D Aquarium Solutions reckon you ought to use three 54w T5s to replace each 150w metal halide.
> Do they actually work out cheaper than metal halides?
Individually, they're cheaper to buy, but you may need more of them - maybe six or more if the tank is large. Costs can therefore work out similar to metal halides. You could save a few quid on replacement bulbs, though. Some T5 bulbs can be yours for as little as tenner, but you'll be lucky to pick up a metal halide bulb for less than 50 quid.
> How do the running costs compare?
By our calculations, based on the recommendations of T5 distributors for the number of bulbs to use, electrical running costs are similar, and potentially slightly higher than with metal halides.
The biggest savings will come to those who currently have a large number of standard fluorescents. T5s kick out more watt-for-watt so you could save a few quid on electricity if you're thinning out the number of bulbs by installing fewer T5s.
> What sorts are available?
There are several different designs: stylish luminaire fittings, which include a built-in ballast, reflector and several bulbs, need to be suspended from the ceiling; slimline units, like those from STM and D and D with a ballast and one or two bulbs, are designed to sit under the hood, while canopies like the models from Arcadia and Aquatic Solutions sit on the top of the tank, replacing the hood.
> All of those on the market look rather similar. Are there any significant differences?
There are differences in the types of ballast used, which may have some bearing on performance, as well as minor differences in the build quality of the actual light unit itself. However, the most critical differences are in the quality and design of the bulb and reflector used.
There are several different brands of bulb on the market, with each manufacturer making different claims about performance. D and D claim that their bulbs use a superior "A1 phosphor mix" and are the spectra designed specifically for use on aquaria. It's a good idea to use a mixture of bulbs to get the spectrum and light quality you're after. Ask your retailer.
Experts reckon that the gull-wing style of w-shaped reflector is best, because it directs around the tube back to the tank, rather than pointing it back at the bulb
And from another famous site.
VHO, T5, PC Lumen Comparison
Rob,
Do you know where I can find a lumen output comparison of VHO, T5 & Power Compact? Can't seem to find one anywhere. I was told the new T5 lamps actually have more lumen output than even Power Compact bulbs. Would love to see some stats on this. Thanks, Rob
<I am not sure that such a comparison exists, and if it does only a few brands/models are probably compared. The bottom line is that the differences in efficiency between types of florescent lamps in terms of lumens/watt is probably trivial. PC's and especially T-5's are brighter because they pack the watts into a smaller package which also allows more lamps to be placed in the same amount of space and permits more efficient reflector designs. Smaller lamps also cast a smaller shadow (this is not a trivial consideration), and double ended lamps (as opposed to the "horse shoe" design of PC's) allows light exiting the sides of the lamp to be reflected downward as opposed to shining onto the adjacent tube. I hope this helps. Adam>
> How many do I need?
The number and combination of bulbs you add largely depends on what you are keeping. You'll probably be looking at four to six for the average tank, but you might get away with less if you're keeping inverts that are tolerant of lower light levels, such as zoanthids, Pachyclavularia, Leather corals and corallimorphs (mushroom anemones). If you're considering swapping your halides for T5s, D and D Aquarium Solutions reckon you ought to use three 54w T5s to replace each 150w metal halide.
> Do they actually work out cheaper than metal halides?
Individually, they're cheaper to buy, but you may need more of them - maybe six or more if the tank is large. Costs can therefore work out similar to metal halides. You could save a few quid on replacement bulbs, though. Some T5 bulbs can be yours for as little as tenner, but you'll be lucky to pick up a metal halide bulb for less than 50 quid.
> How do the running costs compare?
By our calculations, based on the recommendations of T5 distributors for the number of bulbs to use, electrical running costs are similar, and potentially slightly higher than with metal halides.
The biggest savings will come to those who currently have a large number of standard fluorescents. T5s kick out more watt-for-watt so you could save a few quid on electricity if you're thinning out the number of bulbs by installing fewer T5s.
> What sorts are available?
There are several different designs: stylish luminaire fittings, which include a built-in ballast, reflector and several bulbs, need to be suspended from the ceiling; slimline units, like those from STM and D and D with a ballast and one or two bulbs, are designed to sit under the hood, while canopies like the models from Arcadia and Aquatic Solutions sit on the top of the tank, replacing the hood.
> All of those on the market look rather similar. Are there any significant differences?
There are differences in the types of ballast used, which may have some bearing on performance, as well as minor differences in the build quality of the actual light unit itself. However, the most critical differences are in the quality and design of the bulb and reflector used.
There are several different brands of bulb on the market, with each manufacturer making different claims about performance. D and D claim that their bulbs use a superior "A1 phosphor mix" and are the spectra designed specifically for use on aquaria. It's a good idea to use a mixture of bulbs to get the spectrum and light quality you're after. Ask your retailer.
Experts reckon that the gull-wing style of w-shaped reflector is best, because it directs around the tube back to the tank, rather than pointing it back at the bulb
And from another famous site.
VHO, T5, PC Lumen Comparison
Rob,
Do you know where I can find a lumen output comparison of VHO, T5 & Power Compact? Can't seem to find one anywhere. I was told the new T5 lamps actually have more lumen output than even Power Compact bulbs. Would love to see some stats on this. Thanks, Rob
<I am not sure that such a comparison exists, and if it does only a few brands/models are probably compared. The bottom line is that the differences in efficiency between types of florescent lamps in terms of lumens/watt is probably trivial. PC's and especially T-5's are brighter because they pack the watts into a smaller package which also allows more lamps to be placed in the same amount of space and permits more efficient reflector designs. Smaller lamps also cast a smaller shadow (this is not a trivial consideration), and double ended lamps (as opposed to the "horse shoe" design of PC's) allows light exiting the sides of the lamp to be reflected downward as opposed to shining onto the adjacent tube. I hope this helps. Adam>
T
thomas712
Guest
NO, HO (T-5), PC, and VHO....All are flourescent bulbs.. So it comes down to a choice. me? I'm very pro VHO, but I could see very well where some folks could not only prefer the T-5's but may not have any other choice. Perhaps the T-5 would be well suited for one of those Bow front aquariums where they can pack more t-5's in then regular VHO plug and play units.
Then of course you have to wonder about what you see verses what you don't see. What ever lighting system you have may look great or even phenomenal to your eyes, but is it producing the best PAR or PUR for your corals?
Then there is the initial cost of setup and maintanence cost like replacement bulbs, as well as overall running cost to consider as an electric consumer.
If bang guy were to step into this thread we may get some interesting answers, I think (not sure) that he has used every lighting system out there.
Then of course you have to wonder about what you see verses what you don't see. What ever lighting system you have may look great or even phenomenal to your eyes, but is it producing the best PAR or PUR for your corals?
Then there is the initial cost of setup and maintanence cost like replacement bulbs, as well as overall running cost to consider as an electric consumer.
If bang guy were to step into this thread we may get some interesting answers, I think (not sure) that he has used every lighting system out there.
turningtim
Active Member
Another good one from the Thomas libaray! But with what I've seen and a question that I have is the varations of the life span of certain lights. I do get that its how much time you use the light during the day but it would seem that most of us are in the 8-10-12 hour range and I don't get why the varation of the projected life of bulbs are. Is it just a matter of the quaility of the bulb itself? And how do you ever really know?
I've had my PC's for 16 monthes and have no ill effects of algae or corals doing poorly etc and these are about the least expensive you could find. I run a 10 hr period......
Thanks
Tim
I've had my PC's for 16 monthes and have no ill effects of algae or corals doing poorly etc and these are about the least expensive you could find. I run a 10 hr period......
Thanks
Tim