How I drill my tanks...
- Thread starter aw2
- Start date
aw2eod
Member
Originally Posted by MPLS MAN
sounds a great idea, but i have a Oceanic 110 gal tank that i paid 400.00 for and i wouldn't want to crack it, i know you said the glass was 3/4 thich on your 200 gal, was that hard to do??
It's me...just had to switch screen names.
Honestly, the 200gal. was the easiest to do. Here's my secret:
Be at home, one night, really really bored. Get the bright idea that you're gonna go pick up a 12 pack of MGD bottles and drink that.
Casually walk through your dining room and glance at the tank that you've wanted to drill for a long time.
*lightbulb flickers on above head*
"I'm gonna drill that *$^#&* tank!
That's basically how I did it. The next day, I couldnt believe that I'd done it, but low and behold...it was done. Since then, I cant count how many tanks I've drilled but using my method, I've never had a tank crack on me.
sounds a great idea, but i have a Oceanic 110 gal tank that i paid 400.00 for and i wouldn't want to crack it, i know you said the glass was 3/4 thich on your 200 gal, was that hard to do??
It's me...just had to switch screen names.
Honestly, the 200gal. was the easiest to do. Here's my secret:
Be at home, one night, really really bored. Get the bright idea that you're gonna go pick up a 12 pack of MGD bottles and drink that.
Casually walk through your dining room and glance at the tank that you've wanted to drill for a long time.
*lightbulb flickers on above head*
"I'm gonna drill that *$^#&* tank!
That's basically how I did it. The next day, I couldnt believe that I'd done it, but low and behold...it was done. Since then, I cant count how many tanks I've drilled but using my method, I've never had a tank crack on me.
sleasia
Active Member
I know this is an old thread...if your out there aw2...I'm going to try this on my new practically free 150...there are no stickers saying its tempered or not so I will assume the bottom is and I must drill holes in the sides only. there is one sticker that says built in 1997 that's the only clue. So instead of spending the $50 -$100 on the diamond drill bits, I will drill a pilot hole and cut out some wheel spokes and then connect the dots cutting the hole out. I assume you give light pressure...I'm doing it in the garage so can run water right on the drill bit as I'm working. Is this all I need to know???? just go slow and careful?
J
jc85
Guest
How can you tell if its tempered glass?
sleasia
Active Member
got me? I don't know. one thread, maybe this one said any tanks over 50 gallons probably have tempered glass on the bottom of the tank, someone else somewher said to look for a sticker (this tank has not sticker revealing anything)...then someone else said tanks built after or before a certain date?...I don't know if there is any way to figure it out. Anyone out there know?
aw2x3
Active Member
I dont have my pics anymore, but you can go to this link and there are others, who have uploaded pics, using the method I described.
https://forums.saltwaterfish.com/t/195778/aquarium-drilling
https://forums.saltwaterfish.com/t/195778/aquarium-drilling
martinc909
Member
Originally Posted by javatech1
Look at it through crossed polarizers - tempered glass usually shows a lot of strain bifringence. Get some polaroid material (cheap plastic clip-on shades will work) and view through the glass with one sheet on each side rotated 90 degrees to each other. For instance, clip on one pair to your glasses, hold the other polarizer in front of your light source and rotate it until you get maximum extinction. Now insert the glass in question between the polaroids. Tempered glass will exhibit distinct patterns of dark and light bands or other shapes. You might even get groovy colors. If you can see through the glass edge-on, then it will show a dramatic pattern of colored bands parallel to the faces. If you see no patterns, and light is evenly extinguished as you look through it, then it is not tempered and is pretty well annealed.
Finally, you can examine the glass closely for any brand name etched into it. Examine the edge for any sign of fire polishing. Examine the surface for little dimples where tongs may have indented the glass. Any of these indicate tempering, and you should not try to cut or grind this glass, or you will have a terrible mess.
Look at it through crossed polarizers - tempered glass usually shows a lot of strain bifringence. Get some polaroid material (cheap plastic clip-on shades will work) and view through the glass with one sheet on each side rotated 90 degrees to each other. For instance, clip on one pair to your glasses, hold the other polarizer in front of your light source and rotate it until you get maximum extinction. Now insert the glass in question between the polaroids. Tempered glass will exhibit distinct patterns of dark and light bands or other shapes. You might even get groovy colors. If you can see through the glass edge-on, then it will show a dramatic pattern of colored bands parallel to the faces. If you see no patterns, and light is evenly extinguished as you look through it, then it is not tempered and is pretty well annealed.
Finally, you can examine the glass closely for any brand name etched into it. Examine the edge for any sign of fire polishing. Examine the surface for little dimples where tongs may have indented the glass. Any of these indicate tempering, and you should not try to cut or grind this glass, or you will have a terrible mess.