I Cant Keep Tangs Whats Up With This???
- Thread starter kwiknezy1
- Start date
kwiknezy1
Member
Originally Posted by renogaw
it may not be a bad idea to make it smaller pieces, plus it allows room for the fish to swim through the rocks and allows better filtration, but like sep says, it may not be the rock.
how new is the test kit?
what about my other questions?
i didnt see any more, please repost
it may not be a bad idea to make it smaller pieces, plus it allows room for the fish to swim through the rocks and allows better filtration, but like sep says, it may not be the rock.
how new is the test kit?
what about my other questions?
i didnt see any more, please repost
kwiknezy1
Member
Originally Posted by renogaw
it may not be a bad idea to make it smaller pieces, plus it allows room for the fish to swim through the rocks and allows better filtration, but like sep says, it may not be the rock.
how new is the test kit?
what about my other questions?
The test kit is maybe 2 months old. other questions????
it may not be a bad idea to make it smaller pieces, plus it allows room for the fish to swim through the rocks and allows better filtration, but like sep says, it may not be the rock.
how new is the test kit?
what about my other questions?
The test kit is maybe 2 months old. other questions????
bronco300
Active Member
Originally Posted by Bronco300
my first thoughts are the TDS readings...200....they should be between 0-15 or so...so wouldnt this have some effect to what the actually parameters are as well?
i dont think i read this, but i may have missed it...just out of curiosity are you having any algae problems etc?
you said you did a water change three days ago...possibly were the readings higher before the change?
?
my first thoughts are the TDS readings...200....they should be between 0-15 or so...so wouldnt this have some effect to what the actually parameters are as well?
i dont think i read this, but i may have missed it...just out of curiosity are you having any algae problems etc?
you said you did a water change three days ago...possibly were the readings higher before the change?
?
renogaw
Active Member
Originally Posted by sepulatian
No disrespect to Bang but he also says that nitrites are reletively harmless. They are not. I lost quite a few fish to nitrites when I first started salt.
randy holmes-farley says 20 ppm is fine, but expect algae... where's my white rabbit...
No disrespect to Bang but he also says that nitrites are reletively harmless. They are not. I lost quite a few fish to nitrites when I first started salt.
randy holmes-farley says 20 ppm is fine, but expect algae... where's my white rabbit...
renogaw
Active Member
Originally Posted by renogaw
i've got a couple ideas while reading this:
like others have said in your other post, your salinity is high. Do you test the water at the LFS and the drip bucket before putting them in your tank? if they keep their water at 1.017 like a lot do (or lower) and you drip for 2 hrs, the water in the bucket may still be lower than what your tank is.
do you check the pH in the bucket compared to your tank?
i highly doubt a tang is going to starve overnight. so, while not the best thing to do, not seeing a fish eat in the LFS is not going to kill the fish by the next day. this is though where the QT is key. you should be able to get the fish to eat within the 2-3 weeks they are in the qt.
i wouldn't think trates are going to be an issue, unless over 100 (i believe).
i'd be more interested in how big your QT is (something you havent said), how you cycled it, how you handled the ich you had (and have still i'm assuming), how you handled the ammonia you were sure to have by placing 2 hippos into the tank. i'd also like to know why you don't put the fish into the QT instead of your DT.
you cycled with 8 damsels... how long ago was this? how much live rock do you have in there?
you say a newbie wouldn't have all this stuff, but i disagree. anyone can buy stuff, but not using it or using it incorrectly is killing your fish.
those questions
kwiknezy1
Member
Originally Posted by renogaw
if calcium and pH are in balance, the alk should be fine. should have it though since you're doing reef, and also get a magnesium test kit
will definately get one..
Here is the answers to your earlier post
like others have said in your other post, your salinity is high. Do you test the water at the LFS and the drip bucket before putting them in your tank? if they keep their water at 1.017 like a lot do (or lower) and you drip for 2 hrs, the water in the bucket may still be lower than what your tank is.
do you check the pH in the bucket compared to your tank? No i do not...
i highly doubt a tang is going to starve overnight. so, while not the best thing to do, not seeing a fish eat in the LFS is not going to kill the fish by the next day. this is though where the QT is key. you should be able to get the fish to eat within the 2-3 weeks they are in the qt.
i wouldn't think trates are going to be an issue, unless over 100 (i believe).
i'd be more interested in how big your QT is (something you havent said), how you cycled it, how you handled the ich you had (and have still i'm assuming), how you handled the ammonia you were sure to have by placing 2 hippos into the tank. i'd also like to know why you don't put the fish into the QT instead of your DT. Well to be honest girlfriend did it.. she purchased them and didnt put in QT. The ich pretty much just went away with some Kordon Rid-Ich , and copper.. I have a bare bottom tank, with a Skilter filter/protein skimmer on it... a basic florescent light on it. and it is 30 gallons. i cycled the tank in the best way i thought too, when i did a water change, that is what i used.. plus added some premix from my LPS
you cycled with 8 damsels... how long ago was this? how much live rock do you have in there? it has been slightly over a year, i already asnwered the question over rock, and yes, i cycled with 8 damsels
you say a newbie wouldn't have all this stuff, but i disagree. anyone can buy stuff, but not using it or using it incorrectly is killing your fish.
if calcium and pH are in balance, the alk should be fine. should have it though since you're doing reef, and also get a magnesium test kit
will definately get one..
Here is the answers to your earlier post
like others have said in your other post, your salinity is high. Do you test the water at the LFS and the drip bucket before putting them in your tank? if they keep their water at 1.017 like a lot do (or lower) and you drip for 2 hrs, the water in the bucket may still be lower than what your tank is.
do you check the pH in the bucket compared to your tank? No i do not...
i highly doubt a tang is going to starve overnight. so, while not the best thing to do, not seeing a fish eat in the LFS is not going to kill the fish by the next day. this is though where the QT is key. you should be able to get the fish to eat within the 2-3 weeks they are in the qt.
i wouldn't think trates are going to be an issue, unless over 100 (i believe).
i'd be more interested in how big your QT is (something you havent said), how you cycled it, how you handled the ich you had (and have still i'm assuming), how you handled the ammonia you were sure to have by placing 2 hippos into the tank. i'd also like to know why you don't put the fish into the QT instead of your DT. Well to be honest girlfriend did it.. she purchased them and didnt put in QT. The ich pretty much just went away with some Kordon Rid-Ich , and copper.. I have a bare bottom tank, with a Skilter filter/protein skimmer on it... a basic florescent light on it. and it is 30 gallons. i cycled the tank in the best way i thought too, when i did a water change, that is what i used.. plus added some premix from my LPS
you cycled with 8 damsels... how long ago was this? how much live rock do you have in there? it has been slightly over a year, i already asnwered the question over rock, and yes, i cycled with 8 damsels
you say a newbie wouldn't have all this stuff, but i disagree. anyone can buy stuff, but not using it or using it incorrectly is killing your fish.
renogaw
Active Member
ok.. the copper is an issue... did you do both rid ich AND copper? what type of copper did you use? did you follow the instructions to the T? tangs and copper are generally a big NO-NO. i sure hope this was in your QT...
do you have any sponge or anything in your qt that would hold the bacteria to breakdown the ammonia?
by your first answer, i'm going to probably say acclimation practices are killing your fish.
do you have any sponge or anything in your qt that would hold the bacteria to breakdown the ammonia?
by your first answer, i'm going to probably say acclimation practices are killing your fish.
kwiknezy1
Member
Originally Posted by renogaw
ok.. the copper is an issue... did you do both rid ich AND copper? what type of copper did you use? did you follow the instructions to the T? tangs and copper are generally a big NO-NO. i sure hope this was in your QT...
do you have any sponge or anything in your qt that would hold the bacteria to breakdown the ammonia? basic filter media w/phosphate pad
by your first answer, i'm going to probably say acclimation practices are killing your fish.
ok what do you do....
ok.. the copper is an issue... did you do both rid ich AND copper? what type of copper did you use? did you follow the instructions to the T? tangs and copper are generally a big NO-NO. i sure hope this was in your QT...
do you have any sponge or anything in your qt that would hold the bacteria to breakdown the ammonia? basic filter media w/phosphate pad
by your first answer, i'm going to probably say acclimation practices are killing your fish.
ok what do you do....
kwiknezy1
Member
Originally Posted by renogaw
one other question, do you acclimate the fish to your QT when moving from the DT? how close are the parameters between the qt and the dt?
PAremters in QT
Salinity- 1.026
temp- 78.9
Ph- 7.8
Ammonia- 0
Nitrate-0
Nitrite-0
phosphate- .4
EDIT: headed to sleep (finally) we'll help figure this out fr ya.
me too...lol
one other question, do you acclimate the fish to your QT when moving from the DT? how close are the parameters between the qt and the dt?
PAremters in QT
Salinity- 1.026
temp- 78.9
Ph- 7.8
Ammonia- 0
Nitrate-0
Nitrite-0
phosphate- .4
EDIT: headed to sleep (finally) we'll help figure this out fr ya.
me too...lol
kwiknezy1
Member
i am going to redo the QT this weekend, is the size good.., also i just looked at the powerheads, i have 3 maxi-jet 1200's, i just repositioned them behind the rock hopefully to get more flow from the back of the tank to the front.. Just from relocating them i noticed alot of debri flowing around now.I will also pick up another maxi-jet tomorrow to place behind the rock to go from left to right, hopefully to get more flow behind the rock also. weird thing though when i did water change i suctioned all of the rock and barely anything at all came off the rocks. I will retest paremeters tomorrow and see if i get better results. I also turned the heaters up to 79 degrees. so with the lights on it should not make it over 80. i was at like 75 degrees. Tomorrow i will laso probably get all the damsels out of the tank and take them to the LPS for maybe a credit. I will also pick up new filters for the ro/di unit.. weird thing though is that i might have only gotten 100 gallons out of it , and it is a 6 stage system. I might not have broken in the unit correctly.. i let it run about 20 gallons of water before using it in the tank. here is the system i have ( well a link ) 6 stage
I know URL might get deleted.. if it does then i have a pic of it.. i will try to make a better habitat this coming month.. then ill try tangs again.. i might go on and purchase my 220 and start from scratch with that one.. hell i dont know..I know this crap is getting old...LOL
I know URL might get deleted.. if it does then i have a pic of it.. i will try to make a better habitat this coming month.. then ill try tangs again.. i might go on and purchase my 220 and start from scratch with that one.. hell i dont know..I know this crap is getting old...LOL
renogaw
Active Member
darn dog woke me up early 
was hoping to sleep in.
the qt is the right size. it's actually a great size. all you need in that is a hob filter like an emperor or something, and a biowheel filter is even better. a maxijet 900 as well to help with movement, a heater and a flourescent light and that's all you need.
except since you put copper in there you need a copper test kit to see what your levels are since (supposedly) it can leach into the silicone.
i have a sponge prefilter that i soaked in my tank for months to get a bacterial colony, and placed it over the intake of the emporer filter. i've not seen ammonia in my tank even ghost feeding.
i implore you, before you get another tang, try some other fish. you seriously only have beginner fish in there (damsels and clowns). definitely get rid of the damsels if the lfs will take them back, and maybe try a fire fish, royal gramma or a dwarf angel, or something more hardy. acclimate it to your quarantine tank, let it lve a stress free life for a few weeks, then acclimate it to your DT.
i'm eventually going to get yelled at, but it's worked well for me for a bunch of fish (even an unhealthy kole) and others say it works for them. put the fish in a tupperware container with as much water that can fit in it from the bag. every 10-15 mins take a turkey baster of water out of it and discard, and take a turkey baster of tank water and put into the bowl. for hardy fish, do this for 1.5 hrs, for more delicate fish do for 2+ hrs. also, test the water from the lfs--if there is a difference in salinity and pH you may have to bump this time up and lower the amount of water you transfer. I've not lost a fish due to acclimating this way.
I was also thinking that your 10 fish in a 75 may be over the max capacity for the tank, and by throwing in a poop machine that is a tang you may have caused an ammonia spike that you may not have been able to read because you were more worried about the fish. definitely take them back.
it's good that you repositioned your pumps, and maybe you had some bad stuff going on back there that may have been the ultimate issue with your tank. i have 3 mj1200's in the tank and a mag5 in the sump, so your pumps should be fine--i have 2 mj's pointing towards the middle of the tank from either corner and the third going around the back of the tank.
a temp swing may also have been screwing up things as well so its good that you raised the temp. just realize that now your tank has a higher base temperature for it to get hotter from and you may still have a temperature fluxuation.
was hoping to sleep in.the qt is the right size. it's actually a great size. all you need in that is a hob filter like an emperor or something, and a biowheel filter is even better. a maxijet 900 as well to help with movement, a heater and a flourescent light and that's all you need.
except since you put copper in there you need a copper test kit to see what your levels are since (supposedly) it can leach into the silicone.
i have a sponge prefilter that i soaked in my tank for months to get a bacterial colony, and placed it over the intake of the emporer filter. i've not seen ammonia in my tank even ghost feeding.
i implore you, before you get another tang, try some other fish. you seriously only have beginner fish in there (damsels and clowns). definitely get rid of the damsels if the lfs will take them back, and maybe try a fire fish, royal gramma or a dwarf angel, or something more hardy. acclimate it to your quarantine tank, let it lve a stress free life for a few weeks, then acclimate it to your DT.
i'm eventually going to get yelled at, but it's worked well for me for a bunch of fish (even an unhealthy kole) and others say it works for them. put the fish in a tupperware container with as much water that can fit in it from the bag. every 10-15 mins take a turkey baster of water out of it and discard, and take a turkey baster of tank water and put into the bowl. for hardy fish, do this for 1.5 hrs, for more delicate fish do for 2+ hrs. also, test the water from the lfs--if there is a difference in salinity and pH you may have to bump this time up and lower the amount of water you transfer. I've not lost a fish due to acclimating this way.
I was also thinking that your 10 fish in a 75 may be over the max capacity for the tank, and by throwing in a poop machine that is a tang you may have caused an ammonia spike that you may not have been able to read because you were more worried about the fish. definitely take them back.
it's good that you repositioned your pumps, and maybe you had some bad stuff going on back there that may have been the ultimate issue with your tank. i have 3 mj1200's in the tank and a mag5 in the sump, so your pumps should be fine--i have 2 mj's pointing towards the middle of the tank from either corner and the third going around the back of the tank.
a temp swing may also have been screwing up things as well so its good that you raised the temp. just realize that now your tank has a higher base temperature for it to get hotter from and you may still have a temperature fluxuation.
S
sudc
Guest
I highly doubt nitrates are the issue unless they are thru the roof.
I really wonder where the idea came from that 20 is bad. I have kept a blue tang, damsels, midas blenny and clown in a tank with nitrates between 100 and 200 for over a year with no ill effects whatsoever. Even now, i can't keep nitrates below 40 in that tank and they are usually around 60-80 and the fish are almost 4 years old in that tank. 20-40 nitrates isn't going to kill a tang unless it happens over a LOOOONG period of time.
It's possible but i wouldnt' think that the damsels are killing them overnight but hey anything is possible with those boogers.
I still think it's an acclimation problem. I haven't lost a new fish in about 3 years (about 12 fish in that time) since i started doing a 4-5 hour drip.
Do you know what the water at the store you are getting them from is at? You are at 1.027, they could be at 1.019 or similar which is a big swing and might require more than just 2 hours of acclimation.
I really wonder where the idea came from that 20 is bad. I have kept a blue tang, damsels, midas blenny and clown in a tank with nitrates between 100 and 200 for over a year with no ill effects whatsoever. Even now, i can't keep nitrates below 40 in that tank and they are usually around 60-80 and the fish are almost 4 years old in that tank. 20-40 nitrates isn't going to kill a tang unless it happens over a LOOOONG period of time.
It's possible but i wouldnt' think that the damsels are killing them overnight but hey anything is possible with those boogers.
I still think it's an acclimation problem. I haven't lost a new fish in about 3 years (about 12 fish in that time) since i started doing a 4-5 hour drip.
Do you know what the water at the store you are getting them from is at? You are at 1.027, they could be at 1.019 or similar which is a big swing and might require more than just 2 hours of acclimation.
briand7878
Member
You said earlier that you had rid ich and copper together. Rid Ich has formalin in it. On the back of my copper it says do not use if you have used formalin. Im not sure about all copper but i use cupramine. It may be different than yours.
digitydash
Active Member
Originally Posted by SUDC
I highly doubt nitrates are the issue unless they are thru the roof.
I really wonder where the idea came from that 20 is bad. I have kept a blue tang, damsels, midas blenny and clown in a tank with nitrates between 100 and 200 for over a year with no ill effects whatsoever. Even now, i can't keep nitrates below 40 in that tank and they are usually around 60-80 and the fish are almost 4 years old in that tank. 20-40 nitrates isn't going to kill a tang unless it happens over a LOOOONG period of time.
It's possible but i wouldnt' think that the damsels are killing them overnight but hey anything is possible with those boogers.
I still think it's an acclimation problem. I haven't lost a new fish in about 3 years (about 12 fish in that time) since i started doing a 4-5 hour drip.
Do you know what the water at the store you are getting them from is at? You are at 1.027, they could be at 1.019 or similar which is a big swing and might require more than just 2 hours of acclimation.
Sounds like your feeding your fish to much if you cant get rid of nitrates.My tank is always at 0 but I only feed my fish 2 times a week and I havent change my water in 9 months.Also you might have to many fish for your size tank.
I highly doubt nitrates are the issue unless they are thru the roof.
I really wonder where the idea came from that 20 is bad. I have kept a blue tang, damsels, midas blenny and clown in a tank with nitrates between 100 and 200 for over a year with no ill effects whatsoever. Even now, i can't keep nitrates below 40 in that tank and they are usually around 60-80 and the fish are almost 4 years old in that tank. 20-40 nitrates isn't going to kill a tang unless it happens over a LOOOONG period of time.
It's possible but i wouldnt' think that the damsels are killing them overnight but hey anything is possible with those boogers.
I still think it's an acclimation problem. I haven't lost a new fish in about 3 years (about 12 fish in that time) since i started doing a 4-5 hour drip.
Do you know what the water at the store you are getting them from is at? You are at 1.027, they could be at 1.019 or similar which is a big swing and might require more than just 2 hours of acclimation.
Sounds like your feeding your fish to much if you cant get rid of nitrates.My tank is always at 0 but I only feed my fish 2 times a week and I havent change my water in 9 months.Also you might have to many fish for your size tank.
S
sudc
Guest
Definitely right on both accounts
That is my daughter's tank so i can't really take any fish out without a MAJOR problem from her,lol.
As far as feeding, i'm half italian-half jewish, so it's pretty much a mortal sin not to feed my fish 2x a day!
Only twice a week feedings?!?!?! i'd feel so guilty, i wouldn't be able to sleep,lol!!!
That is my daughter's tank so i can't really take any fish out without a MAJOR problem from her,lol.
As far as feeding, i'm half italian-half jewish, so it's pretty much a mortal sin not to feed my fish 2x a day!
renogaw
Active Member
i feed my fish 2x per day, but most of the time it is only flake.
i haven't tested nitrates in my tank, but i also have a great batch of chaeto growing and my dsb is nice and black.
as for not changing your water in 9 months, why on earth wouldnt you? the trace elements in your tank that your fish, bacteria, sand, and corals (if any) are probably depleted by now.
i haven't tested nitrates in my tank, but i also have a great batch of chaeto growing and my dsb is nice and black.
as for not changing your water in 9 months, why on earth wouldnt you? the trace elements in your tank that your fish, bacteria, sand, and corals (if any) are probably depleted by now.
kwiknezy1
Member
Well i have a big batch of chaeto also, where i have it placed in my sump, is right where the return pump is, so the water has to go through it before going back into the tank, I also have all kinds of copeapods..
Also after moving the powerheads around in the tank i noticed a huge difference in the color of the sand ,and also the clarity of the water.. My blenny hates it, because there is soo much flow in there now. it is actually funny watching him swim around now.
I also purchased a new 35 gallon tank, just incase of the copper treatments getting into the silicone. I will use that tank for Goldfish now..
I will test the water again tomorrow and see where i am standing in quality. I will take it to the other LPS in town just to make sure. I dont want to go thru this ever again.. I will also probably purchase a new test kit from Here also.
I have also noticed today that my Protein skimmer isnt producing alot of, well how do you put it, CRAP from the water.. i barely have anything in the collection cup at all. I didnt notice it till today. ( it is hidden under a shelf with the Cascade 1500 ) it is a little out of view, so i figured i would check it today, i have a 4 gallon overflow hooked up to it also ( when the foam releases into the collection cup of the protein skimmer it then goes into the 4 gallon jug) I wonder whats up with that..Is the chaeto working that good, or should i look into replacing the needle wheel pump. it is producing alot of microbubbles in the chamber, just no overflow of CRAP.
Also after moving the powerheads around in the tank i noticed a huge difference in the color of the sand ,and also the clarity of the water.. My blenny hates it, because there is soo much flow in there now. it is actually funny watching him swim around now.
I also purchased a new 35 gallon tank, just incase of the copper treatments getting into the silicone. I will use that tank for Goldfish now..
I will test the water again tomorrow and see where i am standing in quality. I will take it to the other LPS in town just to make sure. I dont want to go thru this ever again.. I will also probably purchase a new test kit from Here also.
I have also noticed today that my Protein skimmer isnt producing alot of, well how do you put it, CRAP from the water.. i barely have anything in the collection cup at all. I didnt notice it till today. ( it is hidden under a shelf with the Cascade 1500 ) it is a little out of view, so i figured i would check it today, i have a 4 gallon overflow hooked up to it also ( when the foam releases into the collection cup of the protein skimmer it then goes into the 4 gallon jug) I wonder whats up with that..Is the chaeto working that good, or should i look into replacing the needle wheel pump. it is producing alot of microbubbles in the chamber, just no overflow of CRAP.