katsafados
Active Member
So the algae on it will still be green, even though its on a red coral? Wouldnt it look a different colour?
I dont think its been open for 3 or 4 days now.
I dont think its been open for 3 or 4 days now.
Katsafado's first ever 10g SW tank(nano)
- Thread starter katsafados
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meowzer
Moderator
Originally Posted by Katsafados
http:///forum/post/3154219
So the algae on it will still be green, even though its on a red coral? Wouldnt it look a different colour?
I dont think its been open for 3 or 4 days now.
It could be green, brown....it won't be red (unless it's cyano or some wierd red algae..LOL)
You'll notice it.....believe me
How do the stems look? Are they thinning or still fat?
http:///forum/post/3154219
So the algae on it will still be green, even though its on a red coral? Wouldnt it look a different colour?
I dont think its been open for 3 or 4 days now.
It could be green, brown....it won't be red (unless it's cyano or some wierd red algae..LOL)
You'll notice it.....believe me
How do the stems look? Are they thinning or still fat?
katsafados
Active Member
they look a little thinner to me but not a real big difference
spanko
Active Member
Here is some information from Blane Perun's site.
Red Gorgonian Not a Good Tank Inhabitant
While red gorgonian coral are popular choices to be placed in reef tanks and aquariums, they are more difficult to take care of versus other soft corals, as the red Red Gorgonian Culturegorgonian is very particular when it comes to lighting access and water movement
The red gorgonian should be placed at the very bottom of the tank, within close proximity to where the water gushes in from the filter. Many aqua culturists find canister filters to work the best for this type of coral, as the head can be manipulated in the exact direction of the red gorgonian. The water quality should consist of a steady temperature between 72 and 76F and salinity between 1.022 to 1.026. Lighting is one of the most important elements in keeping the red gorgonian alive, as this coral will need access to light 6 hours per day (make sure the light is set on a timer, as exposing more light than required can increase the temperature of the tank and contribute to an algae infection.)
Red Gorgonian Not a Good Tank Inhabitant
While red gorgonian coral are popular choices to be placed in reef tanks and aquariums, they are more difficult to take care of versus other soft corals, as the red Red Gorgonian Culturegorgonian is very particular when it comes to lighting access and water movement
The red gorgonian should be placed at the very bottom of the tank, within close proximity to where the water gushes in from the filter. Many aqua culturists find canister filters to work the best for this type of coral, as the head can be manipulated in the exact direction of the red gorgonian. The water quality should consist of a steady temperature between 72 and 76F and salinity between 1.022 to 1.026. Lighting is one of the most important elements in keeping the red gorgonian alive, as this coral will need access to light 6 hours per day (make sure the light is set on a timer, as exposing more light than required can increase the temperature of the tank and contribute to an algae infection.)
katsafados
Active Member
I have a powerhead pointing directly on it..
It has been thriving untill couple of days ago.
spanko
Active Member
Do your research before purchasing things, then decide if you have the ability to keep them. If you do some research on gorgs you will find that most do not do well and die off within 6 months to a year in our tanks.
The Caribbean photosynthetic ones are the easier to keep but are not normally as colorful as the non photosynthetics.
The Caribbean photosynthetic ones are the easier to keep but are not normally as colorful as the non photosynthetics.
meowzer
Moderator
katsafados
Active Member
Yeah I dont want it to die =( can you look at my pics and see if you can see any algae? I dont think there is anything on it but im not sure.
There is shinny parts o nthe gorg that might be algae but its still red/blackish
There is shinny parts o nthe gorg that might be algae but its still red/blackish
katsafados
Active Member
So it hit that point most likely? I just hope I can get it offt he rock its on so its not an eye soar!
katsafados
Active Member
pH = 7.8-8.0 Not sure which one but leaning more towards 7.8 (a little low how can I rais it?)
Ammonia = 0
Nitrite = 0
Nitrate = 5.0 How can I get this down? Water changes only? Should I do one immediatly or this is an acceptable level?
Calcium = 500mg/l
Phosphate = 0
KH = 10 = 179ppm
ALK = 1.0 how do I raise it?!?!
I also have the suncoral in its feeding tank, and my brother notices a really skinny worm, it almost looks like a spaghetti worm just its just one tube or w.e. Looks to be soft and squiggly. Any ideas what it might be?
Ammonia = 0
Nitrite = 0
Nitrate = 5.0 How can I get this down? Water changes only? Should I do one immediatly or this is an acceptable level?
Calcium = 500mg/l
Phosphate = 0
KH = 10 = 179ppm
ALK = 1.0 how do I raise it?!?!
I also have the suncoral in its feeding tank, and my brother notices a really skinny worm, it almost looks like a spaghetti worm just its just one tube or w.e. Looks to be soft and squiggly. Any ideas what it might be?
katsafados
Active Member
Originally Posted by nikeSB
http:///forum/post/3154400
i've always thought alk was kh? i could be wrong and probably am
also i think dkh is the same as kh. and if thats true then 10 is a good number for a reef
Not sure iof there the same thing either
lol.
dkh is the same as kh, just a different measurment or soemthing.. I know its a good number lol. Just worried about the nitrates being 5.0 the pH being low, and anything else I commented next to lol.
http:///forum/post/3154400
i've always thought alk was kh? i could be wrong and probably am
also i think dkh is the same as kh. and if thats true then 10 is a good number for a reef
Not sure iof there the same thing either
dkh is the same as kh, just a different measurment or soemthing.. I know its a good number lol. Just worried about the nitrates being 5.0 the pH being low, and anything else I commented next to lol.
katsafados
Active Member
My suncoral fully open and extended this morning.
Cellphone pics, kind of blurry and not the true colour.
Attachment 233144
Attachment 233145
Attachment 233146
Cellphone pics, kind of blurry and not the true colour.
Attachment 233144
Attachment 233145
Attachment 233146
spanko
Active Member
Those are not pictures of a fully opened and extending sun coral.
http://images.google.com/images?hl=e...f&oq=&aqi=g-s1
http://images.google.com/images?hl=e...f&oq=&aqi=g-s1
meowzer
Moderator
Originally Posted by spanko
http:///forum/post/3154542
Those are not pictures of a fully opened and extending sun coral.
http://images.google.com/images?hl=e...f&oq=&aqi=g-s1
Yeah...it reminds me of when a polyp is eating...how they close up on the food...
http:///forum/post/3154542
Those are not pictures of a fully opened and extending sun coral.
http://images.google.com/images?hl=e...f&oq=&aqi=g-s1
Yeah...it reminds me of when a polyp is eating...how they close up on the food...
katsafados
Active Member
Originally Posted by spanko
http:///forum/post/3154542
Those are not pictures of a fully opened and extending sun coral.
http://images.google.com/images?hl=e...f&oq=&aqi=g-s1
Indeed they are my good sir!
They have short tenticles, because I dont think big als took care of them properly. So their tenticles started to shorten. Some malnutritioned suncorals dont have tenticles at all!
They were much shorter then what they are now. I take it out and leave it in a bath of phyto, marine snow, while squirting mysis shrimp on each head every so often. It take's about a couple hours to feed, since you have to wait for them to finish eating each time you feed so they open back up and are ready for the next batch of mysis.
Can you tell me anything I can do about my water parameters, its above the pictures.
http:///forum/post/3154542
Those are not pictures of a fully opened and extending sun coral.
http://images.google.com/images?hl=e...f&oq=&aqi=g-s1
Indeed they are my good sir!
They have short tenticles, because I dont think big als took care of them properly. So their tenticles started to shorten. Some malnutritioned suncorals dont have tenticles at all!
They were much shorter then what they are now. I take it out and leave it in a bath of phyto, marine snow, while squirting mysis shrimp on each head every so often. It take's about a couple hours to feed, since you have to wait for them to finish eating each time you feed so they open back up and are ready for the next batch of mysis.
Can you tell me anything I can do about my water parameters, its above the pictures.
katsafados
Active Member
Originally Posted by meowzer
http:///forum/post/3154544
Yeah...it reminds me of when a polyp is eating...how they close up on the food...
They look much different from that when they close up for food.
Youll only see a little rim of yellow and the food sticking out of it, with the orange tube folding inside itself.
You get the impression that its closing up to eat because of the fat tubes. Thats just how the tubes look, its like a human belly after a nice Italian dinner haha, you get bloated while your body digests the food, right?! lol
http:///forum/post/3154544
Yeah...it reminds me of when a polyp is eating...how they close up on the food...
They look much different from that when they close up for food.
Youll only see a little rim of yellow and the food sticking out of it, with the orange tube folding inside itself.
You get the impression that its closing up to eat because of the fat tubes. Thats just how the tubes look, its like a human belly after a nice Italian dinner haha, you get bloated while your body digests the food, right?! lol