List of fish/inverts that hobbiests should avoid

lion_crazz

Active Member
I have compiled a list of animals that I do not think should be collected/kept in aquariums, either because they grow tremendously large or because they have highly specialized needs that cannot be met by most aquarists. There are some fish on the list that have been kept successfully by some aquarists, but I would estimate that 95% of the time, most of these animals die within a matter of months in our aquariums. I am not directing this list at anyone in particular, I am just voicing my opinion and hopefully providing a little guideline for anyone that cares to read it. Next to each fish I give a brief explanation of why I feel it should not be kept. If anyone wants to add to the list, please let me know of the animal and I will add it.
THE LIST

-Moorish Idol - Idols have very poor survival because they are very sensitive to water quality, need very large tanks with a lot of growth, and have a specialized diet (among other things.
-Parrotfish - Parrotfish need an EXTREMELY large amount of water to swim in, as this is a fish that swims miles in a single day. Also, parrotfish have a specialized diet that most aquarists cannot meet for them. On top of that, most species grow much too large for aquariums and are best suited for public aquariums or left in the ocean.
-Batfish - Batfish are extremely sensitive fish and do not ship well at all. The one exception is the orbicularis. This is a moderately hardy fish, however, this fish grows to be extremely tall. A 200 gallon tank is the absolute minimum for this fish.
-Most butterflies - Most butterflies that are sold in fish stores have a very poor track record for survival in captivitiy. They usually have specialized diets, and they are ultra-sensitive to poor water. However, there are a good number of species that do very well in aquariums. Just make sure you research which species you get before you purchase it.
-Pipefish - Pipefish are a poor choice for aquarium inhabitants because they eat extremely slow. They are, however, a good choice for seahorse aquariums, because they have similiar feeding habits to seahorses.
-Panther grouper - Panther groupers should not be kept because they grow extremely large (26 inches). Though there are other groupers that grow just as large as this one, this is the most common species, so I decided to just focus on this one. Just like the butterfly, make sure you research which species of grouper you are buying before you buy it. Panther groupers, bumble bee groupers, goliath groupers, etc. are all terrible choices for aquariums.
-Pilotfish/Emporer Snapper
- Pilotfish and emporer snappers are usually sold at a very small size, but these fish gets 3.5 ft. Definitely not something that anyone can keep in their aquarium.
-Tilefish
- Tilefish live very close to the bottom of the ocean, and are not used to the amount of light that our aquariums have. They often stress out when they are under so much light, and are very known to jump out of the aquarium or not begin feeding.
-Orange spotted filefish
- This fish should not be kept under any cirumstances. The only thing it eats is acropora polyps.
-Garabaldi damsel
- Though this may be one of the nicest looking damsels, it is also a coldwater species (between 50 and 60 degrees), making it a very bad choice for our tropical aquariums.
-Catalina goby
- Though this is a beautiful and common fish, it is another cold water species. A cold, chilled aquarium is needed for this fish.
Leopard blenny (Exallias brevis)
- This fish needs acropora to live.
-Cleaner wrasse/mimic cleaner wrasse - Though some have been known to be able to keep cleaner wrasse, 8 out of 10 die at the LFS, and then 1 out of that last 2 will die within a few weeks in the home aquarium. This is a fish that is better off left in the ocean because removing it in the high quantity that the trade is could have very damaging effects to the health of the fish in the ocean. Alternatives like neon gobies and cleaner shrimp ae excellent. Mimic cleaner wrasses can actually take chunks of flesh out of your fish, and are highly aggressive since many fish are believed in thinking that they are "true" cleaners. These should be avoided for your fish's well-being.
-Titan Trigger
- Besides for the fact that this fish is highly aggressive, it also reaches a length of 30 inches. For that reason, it should not be attempted by the aquarist because one would need a tank of at least 700-1000 gallons.
 

lion_crazz

Active Member
-Dwarf zebra lionfish - This is not a difficult fish to keep, but one thing should be noted about this guy. If you do not see it eat at the store, do not even give it a second look. Most dwarf zebras fail to eat in the LFS, and die days later. If you find one that is eating as a lion should, it will be fine to add to the aquarium.
-Box/Cowfish - Boxfish and cowfish should not be kept because of their dangers to the aquarium. If harassed or killed, the boxfish/cowfish can release a toxin that would kill everything in the aquarium.
-Regal angelfish, potters angelfish, rock beauty angelfish, Multibarred pygmy angelfish, Peppermint angelfish, Venustus angelfish, Six bar angelfish - These three angelfish ship poorly and refuses to eat most times in the LFS. All are usually considered "expert only" fish. Always make sure it is eating aggressively before even thinking about purchasing this one.
-Atlantic Blue Tang - Another fish that can be kept, however, it should be noted, that most break out with bacterial infections not soon after being in the aquarium. This fish is a schooling fish, and many believe the bacterial infection is caused by a weakened immune system when the fish is removed from the school
-Achilles/Clown Tang - The achilles and clown tangs have been kept by aquarists before, but they are both extremely difficult. There are many other tangs out there that are much better suited for the aquarium.
-Spotted/Oriental Sweetlips - Both of these fish that are commonly sold do terribly in aquariums. They ship very poorly and usually only live 6 to 8 months in the aquarium (at the absolute most) before passing away. Even if you get one to live to be an adult, this fish reaches 24 (spotted) and 34 (oriental) inches and are much too large for home aquariums.
-Banggai Cardinalfish/Neon Gobies These are two species that can potentially do very poorly in the home aqurium, depending on the specimen you choose. Banggai cardinalfish often ship poorly, and do not ever begin eating at the LFS. The good thing is that this fish is easily bred in captivity and tank-bred cardinals do excellently. Neon gobies are the same way. Ocean-caught neon gobies do very poorly, but because they breed so often, tank-bred ones are much more common than wild-caught. Make sure that you get tank-bred neon gobies, and not wild-caught.
-Remora Shark
- The Remora Shark is often seen in LFS, but this shark NEEDS to be avoided at all costs. It grows incredibly large and is EXCEEDINGLY aggressive. No remora shark shoud be in anything less than a few thousand gallons to start.
-Pinecone fish
- These fish demand a very high price, do not tolerate bright lights whatsoever, and are difficult to get to feed. Only think about adding one if you have a dim tank, and the specimen you are considering is already eating.
Lookdown
- Lookdowns grow incredibly large (the size of large dinner plates) and need to be kept in large schools.
-Ribbon eel
- This eel has a terrible survival rate in captivity. This is 100% an "expert only" animal.
-Sea Apple
- Sea apples, like the boxfish and cowfish, can relase a toxin that kills everything in the aquarium. Not the kind of risk I would be taking with my tank.
-Gonipora/alveopora
- Lives for 6 to 8 months in aquarium before dying. Although some claim that they die from an "unknown pathogen", others take a more down to earth approach saying they starve to death. Here is an article to read on the species. (Note: flower pot corals and gonipora are one and the same.
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-Crown of thorn starfish - These starfish can cause great pain if touched, and are voracious predators on coral reefs. They are so bad that many scientists on the Great Barrier Reef are attempting to wipe them out.
-Blue Linkia starfish/sand sifting starfish - Linkia starfish are extremely sensitive, need very long/slow acclimations (6+ hours) and both species of starfish need hundreds of pounds of live rock to survive, as they starve to death in small aquariums.
-Harlequin Shrimp - Not a hard animal to keep, but needs to be fed live starfish at least a few times a month to survive. This is the only source of food it will eat.
-Electric flame scallop
- This invertebrate is extrmely difficult to keep because it needs to be spot fed on a daily basis. It does not tolerate nitrates, copper, or inadequate levels of either calcium or alkalinity.
-Horseshoe Crab
- Though these animals are sold small, they grow to be overwhelmingly large. Definitely not something for the home aquarium.
-Long tentacle plate coral (Heliofungia) -
These coral,like the goniopora, do not have a good survival rate in captivity and rarely live longer than a year.
 

aquatics24

Member
"-Achilles/Clown Tang - The achilles and clown tangs have been kept by aquarists before, but they are both extremely difficult. There are many other tangs out there that are much better suited for the aquarium."
Any more info on this..I wanted to get 2 achilles and a clown tang...maybe you can explain a little more on this quote
 

lion_crazz

Active Member
List Continued....
-Spiny Oyster - The spiny oyster is a very interesting animal, but straight from Anthony Calfo and Bob Fenner at Wet Web Media, "there is not much info known/published on them for aquarium use... they are extremely difficult to keep alive and most responsible aquarists leave them in the ocean, or at least don't buy them." Sadly, most spiny oysters live for about 6 months before dying in the aquarium.
-Soapfish/striped grouper - This fish can actually release a toxin into the aquarium when threatened. Like the boxfish, this animal should be avoided because it can potentially kill everything else in the tank if stressed.
-Stonefish/scorpionfish - Those these animals are not difficult to keep, they are HIGHLY dangerous because they can emit quite a painful sting, and expert care is needed if you wish to obtain one.
-Garden eels - This fish is extremely difficult to maintain because they require sandbeds of at least 6 inches, but preferably, much more.
-Clown trigger (juvenile)
- In the juvenile stage of their life, clown triggers are nearly impossible to keep, as they have a very high mortality rate. As adults, they are not difficult at all (besides for the fact that they are so aggressive).
-Mandarin Dragonette
- Most new hobbyists want these little guys and think they are okay for their tank because they are small but the reality of it is that they almost always starve because they need copepods to survive. The problem there is that it takes 4 to 6 months for them to starve, so most new hobbyists think they are fine when they have been in their tank for 2 months. Avoid these guys until your system is incredibly mature and you have copepods everywhere. A refugium is also preferred so that you have a refuge for the pods to breed and reproduce.
-Cuttlefish and jellyfish
- Both of these animals have highly specialized needs and need large aquariums that only house them. I 100% advise everyone to leave these guys for the massive public aquariums. You will not be able to keep them very long. Hundreds and hundreds of gallons is a must just to START these guys.
 

lion_crazz

Active Member
Yes, I forgot about the flame scallops. I am adding that now. The flower pot is what I listed as a gonipora.
 

aquatics24

Member
Oh, i dont have to have them, i just think the achilles are pretty. and the clown is just a cool looking tang...I havent stocked my tank yet, i am doing all the research first. Thank you for the advice.
 

lion_crazz

Active Member
I definitely agree, they are both beautiful fish. I'm sorry, I was not implying that comment specifically at you. I was just using that as a broad statement.
I compliment you on doing the proper research for your tank though. Good luck with your new tank!
 

aquatics24

Member
Originally Posted by lion_crazz
I definitely agree, they are both beautiful fish. I'm sorry, I was not implying that comment specifically at you. I was just using that as a broad statement.
I compliment you on doing the proper research for your tank though. Good luck with your new tank!
Thank you...also i have read/heard i forgot where, not to add purple with a yellow tang, because they will fight for dominance? is this true?
 

miaheatlvr

Active Member
Originally Posted by lion_crazz
I definitely agree, they are both beautiful fish. I'm sorry, I was not implying that comment specifically at you. I was just using that as a broad statement.
I compliment you on doing the proper research for your tank though. Good luck with your new tank!
AMAZING ADDITION, AND AN HONESTLY USEFUL, INFO ABUNDANCE FULL POST! "BRAVO"
 

lion_crazz

Active Member
It is very common for them to fight, but not always. Plenty of people have been successful in keeping a purple tang with a yellow tang. You just need a large enough tank with enough shelter/territory for each fish.
MiaHeat, thank you very much and keep the suggestions coming if you think of anymore common ones that I forgot to list.
 

mcsd22

Member
Lion, I have had a flame scallop for about a month now. When you refer too spot feeding are you refering to photoplankton or something close to that. I guess my question is is marine snow enought to sustain it or will it need more? Also should I be feeding it on a daily basis? Any advise on this would be great, thanks in advance.
 

lion_crazz

Active Member
Originally Posted by mcsd22
Lion, I have had a flame scallop for about a month now. When you refer too spot feeding are you refering to photoplankton or something close to that. I guess my question is is marine snow enought to sustain it or will it need more? Also should I be feeding it on a daily basis? Any advise on this would be great, thanks in advance.
Yes, I would recommend spot feeding it with DT's phytoplankton, marine snow, cyclopeeze, oyster eggs, and other highly nutritious foods. I would have 2 or 3 on a daily rotation to make sure it is getting enough nutrition.
 

miaheatlvr

Active Member
Originally Posted by mcsd22
Lion, I have had a flame scallop for about a month now. When you refer too spot feeding are you refering to photoplankton or something close to that. I guess my question is is marine snow enought to sustain it or will it need more? Also should I be feeding it on a daily basis? Any advise on this would be great, thanks in advance.
I have to look for a link, where they did a diagnosis and breakdown of marine snow and it said that the chemical breakdown contained very very little plankton of beneficial material in it.. i hope somebody else knows the link and could post it. I dilute a tiny bit of frozen cyclopeeze in ro/di water, then into my SEA SQUIRT and inject my corals that way, ALSO i like the "LIQUID LIFE" LIVE PANKTON, you have to keep it in the freezer!
 

mcsd22

Member
Thank you both I will definately need to improve his diet. I had no idea the marine snow was not all its cracked up to be.
 

lion_crazz

Active Member
Dave, while I do absolutely agree with you, I hope to keep much of that out of this discussion. I do not want this to become a debate about what person A has in a 55 that person B says needs a 180 gallon tank. That is where a lot of people stop reading. You see that discussion once a week. What you said about the angels can be said for tangs in tanks less than 6 feet, as well as triggers, adult puffers, adult wrasses, and definitely for sharks and rays, etc. Tank size suggestions/requirements are a totally different issue/debate as far as I am concerned. I just listed a few species that grow abnormally large that most hobbiests do not know about when they purchase the fish (batfish, panther grouper, pilotfish, sweetlips, snapper, parrotfish, etc.) There is really no debate about the tank size requirements of a panther grouper, batfish, pilot, parrot, etc. These fish do grow to extreme lengths, and I felt that this should be known.
 

xdave

Active Member
Ok. I almost started another YT in a 55 argument didnt I
So this is dont keep under any conditions? One people can't resist (havent seen any lately) is
Pincone or Pineapple fish
Remoras.
Octopuses.
 
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