making bulk live rock

Ive always thought about making lr in the wild... I would get base rock and lr and take it out in the gulf, mark the gps, and leave it there. Than I would come back and get it. Im pretty sure it illegal though.
 

divetroop

Member
Scott9311,
Great job on the rock creations. I just read the helpful tips and pics you provided. They're great. You have just saved me $500 I was going to spend on live rock. Once again great job!:happy:
 

scott9311

Member

Originally posted by psychoskater
Ive always thought about making lr in the wild... I would get base rock and lr and take it out in the gulf, mark the gps, and leave it there. Than I would come back and get it. Im pretty sure it illegal though.

Actually... that's the ONLY way I believe it IS legal! I'd love to do the same... but I don't think I'd get much growth with it sitting out in the Chesapeake Bay :rolleyes:
 

scott9311

Member

Originally posted by divetroop
Scott9311,
Great job on the rock creations. I just read the helpful tips and pics you provided. They're great. You have just saved me $500 I was going to spend on live rock. Once again great job!:happy:

Thanks Dive... I'm glad it was of help!
 

thegrog

Active Member

Originally posted by psychoskater
Ive always thought about making lr in the wild... I would get base rock and lr and take it out in the gulf, mark the gps, and leave it there. Than I would come back and get it. Im pretty sure it illegal though.

Actually there is several operations in the keys that do this for profit. They are a little larger scale though. They have sunk concrete slabs and pile thousands of pounds of base rock up and then come back in a year and switch it out.
If you want to do it in the gulf, I would contact the Florida DNR and ask them if there are any permits needed. You don't want to get caught breaking the law and loose your boat!!!
If I lived in FL, that is what I would be doing for LR.
 
Ill look into it. I can find a nice sandy area thats about 10 ft of water and dump a large pile. It would deffinitly have to be cured. Ill see what I can do.
 

shiby1510

Member
Okay... well maybe you guys have heard this already.... but since i'm a noobie (I don't even have my tank yet!) well i've been doing a lot of reading.... and i read that if u use muratic acid with the rock while its in the water it cures a lot faster!!
Instead of seeing if someone is interested.... well here is how u do it w/o u having to ask:
1part muratic to 60 water parts water
-let it sit in that for about 2 days
after then let it sit in water for another 2 and you supposedly should be ready to go

.... any input??
P.S. since i'm a noob still... what do they mean exactly by parts... i know its like a percentage... i'm a bit confused tho??
 

scott9311

Member
Muriatic acid does lower the high initial pH of the water, but it does not provide COMPLETE curing (though it will provide some nasty chlorine fumes during use). That can still only take place with a certain amount of time... And like Daelynn has earlier suggested, any acidic supplement to the curing process can somewhat weaken your rock, especially the more delicate pieces. Just remember... no matter what methods you use or shortcuts you may take, please just keep checking the pH levels BEFORE introducing your rock into your tanks.
Personally, I'm just going to use the best process available (just like everything else we do with this hobby of ours)... time. What's six weeks compared to the piece of mind it gives knowing we're not introducing anything harmful to our little wet friends?
A "part" can be any measurable unit. One part (cup, lb, gallon, etc.) concrete... Five parts (cups, lbs, gallons, etc.) oyster shells.
Good luck and welcome aboard!
 

thegrog

Active Member

Originally posted by scott9311
Not sure how high it can go (have heard up to 10), but you should cure till your pH is 8.3-8.5.

If you have a lot of rock and only a little water, that first change can have a pH up to 11!!!!! That is roughly the same as liquid drain cleaner so be careful with it as it can cause a nasty chemical burn.
Use a big bin with lots of water and change it often the first week or so to prevent the pH from getting too high. It won't hurt the rocks, but could hurt you or any kids that are curious! Careful where you dump the water as well as it will kill any plants and keep them from growing for a long time!
I am actually planning on using a 40-gal rubbermaid bin. I am going to build a little cart with wheels on the bottom so I can move it around. I will install a drain fitting on the bottom so to drain it, all I have to do is open the valve. Plan on keeping it in the gariage and wheel it out to the sewer drain on the street to drain the water, then over to the hose to fill it back up again. I'll post pics in 2 weeks when it is done (no time until then).
GO ILLINI!!!!!!!:cheer: :cheer: :cheer:
 

shiby1510

Member
so u are actually changing all the water completely? you are not just changing some of it?? and are you putting a powerhead at the bottom to help circulate??
is this perhaps a good idea if haven't been thought of? :notsure:
 

scott9311

Member
Yes... do complete water changes. You're using fresh water for the curing process, so you want to get the water with the high pH out. I've read avrious articles about using power heads, air stones, etc... but they all seem to agree that it really doesn't speed up the process much, if at all. The one thing to consider is that power heads/air stones can give you a false low pH reading, so make sure they are turned off and the storage bin your rock is curing in has had time to settle before measuring your levels.
 

tonythfish

New Member
How much water do you use or what should the consistency be of the water / Portland cement / oyster shells mix ?
 

scott9311

Member
I generally use 1 cup of water for every 1 cup of cement/4 cups of oyster shells. I try to get the mix to have a bit more consistency than cottage cheese (or my ex-wife's mashed potatoes:D ). You just want to have it firm enough that it can hold it's shape a bit when putting it in a mold. For example: I made a few pieces completely hollow, so the mix had to be able to coat the verticle portions of my mold and stay in place lond enough for me to put the sand over it to help secure it.
 

tonythfish

New Member
I just got off the phone with old castle and tropical play sand is no longer available . The lady that imports the stuff told me that the island that they mined it has been turn into a natural gas mine . Is there a safe substitute ???
 

scott9311

Member
Any aragonite sand will do. Actually, you could use oyster shells as the mold. Just wet it down enough and it will hold it's form much like the sand.
Thanks for the info on the sand... I better stock up!:)
 

shiby1510

Member
i went to the hd near me today... and they didn't have any :nervous: however the guy said that they should be getting it in within the next few weeks... anyone know of a place around pittsburgh, pa that has it now?? i'm worried that it may not be coming in from what i just read :notsure:
 
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