meat coral

[rwhite]

Sorry so late to this thread, but after reading it I was a little confused on your lighting which may be part of the problem. I think thats the same JBJ system we're running on our 55 and it only has 4 x 65w of lighting. I dont think it will accept 96w bulbs, but it may be a newer system than ours. I went to the JBJ website and it also said 4 x 65, so maybe you dont have enough light reaching the coral, which also may be contributing to the algae problem. Can you check the actual bulbs to determine the wattage? It should say it right on the plug in part. Let us know.

 

[larrynews]

on the paper work it says..."our powerful 65 and 96watt lamps illuminate 3x more ..." i couldn't find it on the plug so later today i'll lift the light and check...thanks......and caryn_ia no sweat, thats why there a numorus post...thanks for the help just the same
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[dburr]

Greatful, that's a lobophylia, check out mine to the left.
I'm not sure of the proper name of a meat, but will look more like a balloon. Almost see-thru when inflated.

 

[larrynews]

ok the bulbs are indeed...65w, i dont have a alk test or phosphate test....would or could that do this to a coral...also should i get my s.g. up to 1.026 ish instead of 1.022...will that hurt the fish???
and this maybe a stupid ?? but is marine snow and c-balance enought to feed my corals...the meat...and 2 green open brains

 

[bang guy]

The animal next to it ("Long Tentacle"), was that an Anemone? If so then that could be the problem.
Also the Salinity should be around 35ppt. 30ppt is way to low IMO.
Another problem is the 7100K Blue Bulb. They don't put out very much lights. Replace it with a bulb that uses actinic Phosphors. Typically they will say "True Actinic" or "Actinic 03". Stay away from anything that says "7100K Blue" or "Blue Actinic".

 

[larrynews]

hey bang on the paper work that came with the lights it says...available lamp spectrums: 6500k-daylight/freshwater plant
10,00k-daylight/marine/reef
7100k-blue actinic/marine/reef
7100k-03-blue (true actinic) reef
would that mean thats whats in it or i can get those kind..i sorry if these are stupid ??? also it was a anemone it was by
i'll check the bulbs again when i get home..thanks for the time

 

[larrynews]

ok i check the bulbs and they do say blue actinic....my next dumb question is how long should those run during the dau right now its just about 4 hours...thanks again

 

[dskidmore]

Originally posted by larrynews
ok i check the bulbs and they do say blue actinic....my next dumb question is how long should those run during the dau right now its just about 4 hours...thanks again
Most people run 8-12 hours a day, unless currently battling algae or cyno. You may have algae problems with that much light if you don't switch to RO/DI water. Might slowly increase your light period until you start seeing too much algae, then back up a bit.

 

[dburr]

The animal next to it ("Long Tentacle"), was that an Anemone? If so then that could be the problem.
Ahhh, never caught that. The anenome stung it. Good catch Bang.
I run my atinics 12 hours. In fact the PC's I would run at least 10 hours and more like 12.:yes: You can have them start and shut off at any time you want and it's always a good thing to put them on a timer.
I stay away from marine snow. I could just add water to cyclop-eeze if I wanted.

J/K
Isn't c-balance for alk/cal balance? Corals don't "eat" it.

 

[larrynews]

c-balance says it has liqiud source of calcium and buffer with strontium, magnesium,and trace elements....produces an ionic residual with the composition of natural seawater.....of course being a novice....to me it sounds like.....bluh bluh bluh...chater chater chater...should i be feeding anything else or am i good....also i thought about the stinging it makes sense....thanks

 

[dburr]

I would buy test kits for Alk, calcium, PH if you haven't already. You wouldn'd want to overdose the tank.

 

[larrynews]

i do test for ph and calcium.....i am going to get an alk test..i do thank everyone for the help

 

[rwhite]

I thought that the lighting was a part of it, using the standard calculations you're only producing like 3w per gallon and your coral being on the bottom was probably not getting enough. And the whole long tentacle thing, leave it to Bang to catch that. I thought you were describing the coral in question, stupid me. An anemone sting can do some damage to a coral. Let me ask you this, is the anemone still moving around, do you have any other corals?
Back to the lighting, I agree with everyone on lengthening your photo-period. Id say at least 10 hours a day, but do it gradually in order not to shock the system. HTH, I'm off to Milwaukee tomorrow, so I'll check in if I can.

 

[larrynews]

no it isn't moving and i have no corals near it...should i keep my corals higher as i get them or get a stronger bulb.???
and i did start leaving the lights on longer and will slowly increase them...a friend of mine runs a lfs, and hes the one that told me 2 hours in the evening and 2 hours at night with the anitics..thanks for the help...be safe on your trip

 

[rwhite]

Just a qwik check back. Heres what we do: Actinics (blue) for 1 hour in the morning, 8 hours full lighting (blue and white) and 2 hrs just blue in the evening totaling 11 hrs. Remember, we're running a 55, so I cant be sure exactly what your requirements are. Are you understanding what we're saying about the light times? Not a flame or anything, just want to make sure we're all on the same page.
And, just to be sure I'm understanding you, you still have the LTA with no corals around it, but you do have other corals. Is this correct? If so, what other types of corals do you have?
If you are still in the planning stages of purchasing corals, I would suggest upgrading your lights, if you can. If upgrading is not an option, then start with simpler/low light corals such as mushrooms, GSP, ricordea or zoos. The standard formula for lighting is: total wattage divided by # of gallons. In your case: 4 x 65w =260w 260 divided by 90 = 2.88888. Most corals require 4-5w per gallon. This is not a "law" you need to abide by, but it gives a good starting point.
Hope I can check in while I'm out of town to see how things are going, but if I cant hopefully some others can pick up on the thread and help some more. You may want to start with more info about your tank: water parameters, what type of filtration, how long has it been running, hows the water flow (power heads,etc), maybe a full tank pic to get a better idea of what your set up looks like.
I've got to finish packing and get some sleep. Hope I've been helpful. Later.

 

[larrynews]

here is a picture of the tank...i have top let 110 gph ph,,then top right 120gph sweep....middle top return from filter i believe its 250ish gph.....then in the back middle i have a big dog (thats what i call it)powerhead i think 600gph ...to blow through allthat live rock so i dont get a stagnet area the filter is the kind with the bio balls then the sump...and i put in the pro clear protein skimmer...same brand as over flow and sump...water is great calcium 450...nitrate 0...nitrite 0...ammonia 0....ph 8.2....i'm going today to get the alkiline tested...i do have 2 open green brain and an ivory coral..the one that looks like a cactus...and some green star polyps that was a frag and is spreading well...the one open green brain..on the top is losing some of the bright green color around the edge....but its not that far from the light with med. water flow..i've had it since july 24th of this year.....hey and no flame taken, somethimes the most obvious thing is overlooked, i'd never take offense to any ideas.
ok my alkiline is 180 not sure if that s good or bad