need opinions for DIY auto-top off

isz

Member
i understand the basic premise of an auto top off system, but i don't really understand how the pump comes into play. it seems to me that having an actual pump would push alot of fresh water into your sump at once not really giving it time to dilute. i have a relativly small system, but i do have a refuguim that has a light running all the time so i have to add fresh water about twice a day to keep my salinity level.
as far as design goes i'm thinking of using some sort of bucket or large rubbermaid container as the umm... bucket, and then either drilling it and running a pvc pipe out to connect to a inline pump. or just having a power head sit in the bucket. either of those would be connected to a float switch mounted in the sump. before the water gets into the sump there would be a ball valve to restrict flow, but would that slow it down enough?
does this make sense?
 

jason weber

Member
i use a float switch connected to a mag five just b/c i had it extra. I have it pumping the water into the area where the overflow from the tank comes into the sump that way it has some time to mix. i don't think you will get to much water flow b/c the float switch wll turn it off pretty quick, mine only runs for about a second or two.
 

guppie

Member
Water top off was getting to be a big pain, so I added a water top off system about a month ago and love it. I picked up a Ultralife float switch, and a Maxi jet 900 ph, I have a 7gal bucket that I fill once a week or so, and the system works great. It adds very little water at a time so that has not been a problem with the salinity. Good luck
 

isz

Member
i hadn't thought about the float switch failing. thanks for pointing that out Gol. but what about using two switches, one that is off unless the water rises to a certain level and the other that is off untill the water falls below a certain level. that way you'd have a back up incase the first switch failed the pump would turn off when the water rose enough to complete the circut of the second switch
 

isz

Member
my problem with a dosing pump is that they are way expensive. i can't really afford something over like 25 bucks for this. if reliablity becomes an issue i'll just have to go back to the my old method.
 

bang guy

Moderator
I know a really easy cheap topoff system for small tanks, but you need to have a sump. Do you have a sump?
 
S

starfishjackedme

Guest
I've had the same float switch for 2 years without any problems. If it is a big deal to you to have the security of it not flooding the sump, then buy a second one. You can use it in reverse as a kill switch for when the water level gets too high. That is a more expensive approach.
 

david s

Member
A real cheap way is, go to a

[hr]
get some IV tube with the thing that governs IV tubes plumb it into a jug and drip it into your sump the same way you would drip kalk works the same as a doseing pump just not as fancy :)
 

isz

Member
thanks Gol, i'll check out ----.
bang, yes i do have a sump what's your cheap topper offer =)
 

jarre

Member
I'm interested in hearing about the top-off too Bang! And I too am an ---- nut. For the most part almost all of my equipment has been purchased there and I've had really good luck with all of the people!
 

bang guy

Moderator

Originally posted by isz
thanks Gol, i'll check out ----.
bang, yes i do have a sump what's your cheap topper offer =)

You need a 5 gallon utility bucket, a 5 gallon plastic carbuoy, 12” of 4” PVC pipe, and 5’ of airline tubing.
Glue one end of the airline tubing to the side of the bucket near the bottom in a “J” configuration. The open end of the tubing should be 2” above the bottom of the bucket, the rest should travel to the bottom and then circle back up along the side of the bucket and over the top. When in operation the other end will lay on the bottom of the sump in a high flow area preferably at the intake to your skimmer.
Cut a small notch on one end of the PVC tubing. A ¼” upside down “V” will work. This is the end that will sit on the bottom of the bucket. The notch will be facing away from the tubing. The length of the tubing will determine the water level in the sump so 12” is probably too high. Once it’s set up the carbuoy will set upside down in the PVC tube and the opening of the carbuoy will determine the water level in the sump. If the opening is too high at first then you need to cut the PVC tubing shorter.
To use this contraption set the bucket next to the sump and fill the bucket with freshwater or limewater about to the level of the sump. Start a siphon in the airline tubing and place the other end in the sump. Double check to make sure no bubbles are in the tubing. Fill the carbuoy with freshwater or limewater all the way to the top. Then flip the carbuoy and set the neck inside the PVC tube. This may take some arm strength as the carbuoy full of water will weigh 40 pounds.
How it works – As the waterlevel in the sump goes lower water will be siphoned from the bucket. If the waterlevel in the bucket gets below the opening of the carbuoy water will gurgle out of the carbuoy and refill the bucket.
Refill the carbuoy after most of the water is gone. You can place the bucket away from the sump but you’ll obviously need longer airline tubing.
If you use this to dose limewater the end of the airline tubing in the sump will become encrusted with Calcium carbonate. You’ll have to clear it off from time to time. I actually have the tubing going through a square of styrofoam so that the end of the tubing doesn’t come in contact with saltwater. This eliminates the need to clean it.
Guy
 

isz

Member
wow Guy i'm truly impressed. i think i'll be building one of those over the next couple days :) the one thing i'm not sure on is: a plastic carbouy seems to be just a regular 5 gallon water jug that you'd typically see in a office water cooler correct?
 

bang guy

Moderator

Originally posted by isz
a plastic carbouy seems to be just a regular 5 gallon water jug that you'd typically see in a office water cooler correct?

Yes! :) "carbuoy" is just less to type than "a regular 5 gallon water jug that you'd typically see in a office water cooler correct"
 

isz

Member
true dat Guy. i've alredy got the parts to bulid this thing. i'll try and finish by tonight. i'll post some pics to help other people out.
btw i've decided to call the contraption "the bang guy special"
 

isz

Member
i decided not to post a pic of the bang guy special in operation, it looks kind of boring. here is however the parts i used to build mine :)
1 rubbermaid trash can
1 five gallon jug
too many feet of 1/4" black tubing
one 6" peice of sewer pipe (non used) ;)
 

surfnturf

Member
Gotta say Bang, that is pretty darn clever! I have seen some smaller carboys, I think 2.5 gallon, I'm pretty sure I saw them at Target or something. Maybe for smaller setups those would work well.
 

bbreaux1

Member
ive got a 55gal and i use a diy system where i made my own float switch from some directions i found online and from there it is hooked up to an air pump that is used to pressurize a small plastic gas tanks i think its 2 1/2 gallons. this system works pretty good for me it adds water slowly but fast enough to where it isnt on forever to top off. ive had the float switch get stuck in on position twice from snails crawling on to it but i had enough room in my tank to where the water just barely had enough room to stay in the tank that was more luck than anything and the salinity didnt go down all that much. i htink if your gonna use a 5gallon bucket or something large like that just fill it half way or however much itll take to keep it going a week
 

neoreef

Member
very interesting, Bang Guy, but I have one question.
If you are floating the end of the airline tubing so it does not contact saltwater in the sump, how do you maintain the siphon that equalizes the water level between the sump and the bucket?
Doesn't that break the siphon?
 
Top