New custom 20g stand

snakeblitz33

Well-Known Member
So, after looking at my POS aquarium stand, I decided to go ahead and build a custom stand for my tank, since I'm going to keep the same size tank until I get out of college again at least - I figured I would go all out and do it right.
Here's what I want to happen:
I'm keeping the 20g high tank for the display tank and an empty 20g long tank as a sump. I'm going to take the 10g sump I have now and convert it into a contained ATS that will sit beside or above the 20g. I'm not exactly sure how I want to do everything just yet.
Dimensions:
20g high: 24x12x16
20g long: 30x12x12
10g: 20x10x12
Possible 5 1/2g: 16x8x10 (ro resivoir)
I could get two 5 1/2g tanks. One, I could use for the RO resivoir and the other I can use for the ATS. I would like to use my 10g I have now for something, but I don't see it happening in the space that I have. If someone has a very creative solution, I'm all for it!
I'll post some diagrams of my thoughts later this evening.
 

snakeblitz33

Well-Known Member
Another thing that I have to do with this particular system is have it baby-proof. I don't want my daughter being able to get into the water or electrical devices or anything - so all the electrical stuff has to be shut off and kept covered completely. The cabinets also need to be locked or somehow babyproofed. I'll definitely need help with that.
I'm looking into 2quills design for the stand as well. I have a slightly different stain color choice, however. :D
Does anyone have any ideas for what type of wood to use? I'm not really looking into spending a fortune. I was thinking about just building the frame of it out of 2x2s and skinning it with some 1/4" oak or birch plywood. Would ya'll do it differently? Maybe use 3/4" plywood or something?
 

snakeblitz33

Well-Known Member
My current stand is made out of MDF wood... it's particle board covered with plastic. The problem is that the ends aren't sealed with plastic as well, and any water that I accidently spill can easily leak into the seams and make the wood soft and brittle. I fear that over time it will cause the stand to fail and my tank to have a premature end.
That's the reason why I am going to build a new stand. Also, another good reason is that the stand I have now doesn't really look that good, and I need it to be more customized. Plus, I also plan to upgrade to a LED lighting system sometime in the next year, so I'll have a place for it in a canopy. :D
 

acrylic51

Active Member
It's possible to do as you described Snake.....You could build the stand using a "torsion panel" technique.......What about laminating 1/2" or 3/4" material, which would be just as strong as using 2x2's and 1/4"????? I'd personally stay away from Oak....Just my preference.....The grain is so open IMHO, but depends on the look your after.
As far as locking the doors.....Anything can be done, depends how you design and build your doors on the stand depends how fancy/easy you want to do it........
 

snakeblitz33

Well-Known Member
My wife said that if it's going to go in her next house, she wants it built right. lol. Basically, become a piece of furniture. So, I plan on doing everything right, I just need some direction because I've never built a stand that was supposed to look nice.
I guess I can use 3/4" plywood. If not Oak, then what? Birch? Poplar? I can't do anything really expensive and oak and birch 3/4" plywood is $45 per 8'x4' board. If I go 3/4" I wouldn't have to laminate it would I? The tank is already sitting on 1/2" MDF - which is taking a HUGE risk already.
 

snakeblitz33

Well-Known Member
Thanks. But, any ideas on what I might need to improve it, Traveler?
I am thinking about turning the two 5 1/2g aquariums to the side and adding an extra 4" to the width of the entire system. That would save me some serious space on both sides of the aquarium...
I guess I can use my little 10g I have now as a quarantine tank in the future...
I'm also thinking of upgrading my little rio 1100 return pump into a mag 3. Thoughts, opinions, suggestions? Will a Mag 3 be enough for an Eshopps PF Nano (200gph max) at 4 1/2ft head?
Also, How tall do you think the tank needs to sit? I like taller tanks, but I also want my daughter to stand and look at it as well... decisions, decisions... lol
 

acrylic51

Active Member
Snake I only recommended laminating pieces for the mere fact when you frame with dimensional lumber you loose space inside at times.....At times it can be vital that you have all the available space. I've never been crazy about standard furniture grade plywood stained and finished.....Just me though.....You could use standard plywood and still laminate the outside viewable surface with 1/4" birch, poplar, or whatever suits your fancy. The more closed grain the wood is, the easier the finish work is. Of course open grained wood such as Oak can have the pores sealed, but a lot more prep work involved.
What type of hardware are you planning on using? Meaning hinges, knobs???? Think your design out and plan your hardware accordingly....Tons of neat stuff out there.....
 

acrylic51

Active Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by SnakeBlitz33 http:///t/389196/new-custom-20g-stand#post_3437721
Here's a couple of diagrams of what I was thinking:

Is that top panel over the tank going to be hinged that it comes out???? A thought/suggestion you could look at euro hinges that control the downward speed of the door closing.....You could look at hydraulic dampners that you can control the upward speed up and they will hold the door in place up as you work on the tank, and upon downward pressure to the door would slowly close it, You could also design the door where it flips up and slides back inward over top of your lighting allowing it out of your way and still leaves your lights functional.
 

snakeblitz33

Well-Known Member
Wow! Those are pretty awesome ideas. I like those Shawn!
I was thinking of making two doors in the front of the canopy for adding food and supplements, and then the top of the wood would have the LED lighting mounted and i could put the hinges in the back, where the whole top could lift back, where I could put it on a couple hydrolic dampers. Any other ideas for canopy opening?
I also have another question... would you all close the back of the cabinets off on the sides? I think I would for the electrical cabinetsand food cabinet, but I'm not so sure about the ATS and RO resevoir cabinets.
Anyone spot any design flaws that need adjustments? I need some more ideas on how the canopy opens for sure!
 

snakeblitz33

Well-Known Member
Oh, and I am going to have to make the entire switch in the same day because of my livestock.. What do you guys recommend as far as "trimming" in the tank so that you can't see the black plastic rims and the sides of the glass??
 

2quills

Well-Known Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by SnakeBlitz33 http:///t/389196/new-custom-20g-stand#post_3437740
Oh, and I am going to have to make the entire switch in the same day because of my livestock.. What do you guys recommend as far as "trimming" in the tank so that you can't see the black plastic rims and the sides of the glass??
This is how I trimmed mine to give you an idea. I added some 3/4" strips that have a routed edge on them and are attached to the sides of the cabinets to cover the gaps on the sides of the tank. I can still see some of the black silicone but it makes the whole tank look framed in. The canopy door itself covers the plastic trim on the top of the tank. Then the trim around the door itself, I left about a 1/4" lip or overhang to cover the tops of the trim pieces on the sides.

On the bottom a raised the molding going around the top of the stand to the same height as the plastic trim on the bottom of the tank. And made a little shelf that is removable.


The back of the shelf sits on top of the plastic trim, and then the side trim pieces on the cabinets hold it firmly in place. My sand bed will be about 2". And should sit flush with the top of my shelf. So I won't see the ugliness of the sand bed up against the glass.

 

acrylic51

Active Member
I'd probably close the back of the cabinets in.....If I was building I'd rabbet the back sides of the cabinets so the back panel would actually sit flush with the end of the cabinet side......Theoretically would make the cabinet stronger, but if you go that route you have to make sure either your sides of your cabinet are square or start with a squared back panel and build from there.....Honestly squaring the sides of the cabinet would be easy, and you could tack scrap pieces to keep the sides and ends square till you get the backs into place.....
 

2quills

Well-Known Member
Close the back of the cabinets, but ventilate to keep that air and moisture exchange going. I'm just going to say it now and forever hold my peace, but if a 125g is out of the question why not go slightly larger. Maybe a 55g? Seems like a lot of work to go through for a 20g display. I'm already regretting putting all that work into mine and not upgrading the display size. Too late to turn back now.
 

snakeblitz33

Well-Known Member
Most apartment complexes won't allow more than 20g of water for an aquarium. I have to keep my tank small until I can get a rent house or a house of my own. Then I'm going bigger.
Plus, maintenance costs are high when talking about larger tanks, and I can't afford it until I get out of school.
Plus, I want something I can give my daughter to take care of when she gets older, for her room and all... :D
 

acrylic51

Active Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by 2Quills http:///t/389196/new-custom-20g-stand#post_3437878
Close the back of the cabinets, but ventilate to keep that air and moisture exchange going. I'm just going to say it now and forever hold my peace, but if a 125g is out of the question why not go slightly larger. Maybe a 55g? Seems like a lot of work to go through for a 20g display. I'm already regretting putting all that work into mine and not upgrading the display size. Too late to turn back now.
What????? To late to turn back????? Never!!!!!!!
 
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