newbie help please
- Thread starter cav414
- Start date
flower
Well-Known Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by cav414 http:///t/396155/newbie-help-please/60#post_3532244
Thank you I definitely need more clean up crew. Could I still be feeding them to much?
Hi,
All food should be eaten completely in just a few minutes after you put it in the tank, unless they are seahorses (they take up to an hour to finish eating).. If food is floating around, and settling on the sand and rock, you are overfeeding.
Serpent or brittle stars (not the green brittle) are an awesome addition to the CUC, they get the stuff deep in the rocks. Nassarius snails will eat leftover food that lands on the sand, and they burrow under the sand until feeding time, turning it so it doesn't load up with toxins, turbo, and cerith snails eat film algae. There are others, that is just to name a few.....
There are critters that feed on nuisance as well, and shrimp that eat aptasia (pest anemone)...that's the beauty of SW tanks, the critters actually do their job.
Originally Posted by cav414 http:///t/396155/newbie-help-please/60#post_3532244
Thank you I definitely need more clean up crew. Could I still be feeding them to much?
Hi,
All food should be eaten completely in just a few minutes after you put it in the tank, unless they are seahorses (they take up to an hour to finish eating).. If food is floating around, and settling on the sand and rock, you are overfeeding.
Serpent or brittle stars (not the green brittle) are an awesome addition to the CUC, they get the stuff deep in the rocks. Nassarius snails will eat leftover food that lands on the sand, and they burrow under the sand until feeding time, turning it so it doesn't load up with toxins, turbo, and cerith snails eat film algae. There are others, that is just to name a few.....
There are critters that feed on nuisance as well, and shrimp that eat aptasia (pest anemone)...that's the beauty of SW tanks, the critters actually do their job.
pegasus
Well-Known Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by cav414 http:///t/396155/newbie-help-please/40#post_3532216
I've moved the rocks once a few weeks ago and 2 days ago I depositions my power heads for better flow so hopefully that helps.
I think I do have algae on the live rock i'll get those clean asap, and the grey spot in the sand is actually a big green spot Is that bad? And should I cut back on my water changes? Im doing 10g every two weeks. Sorry for all the questions lol
Positioning your power heads to get good flow to as much area as possible, especially the sand bed, should help.
Try to remove as much algae as possible during water changes. You should be able to suck a good bit off the rock while siphoning the water out.
Different types of bacteria may color the sand as it establishes (colonizes), so I wouldn't worry too much about it. Just try not to disturb the sand bed too much, as the sand bed is an integral part of the natural filtration system. The less you disrupt the bacteria in the sand, the sooner it can adjust to the bio load of the tank. Fluffing the very top layer of the sand by fanning or with a turkey baster is okay, as it keeps the surface clean and un-compacted. The lower section(s) of sand should not be disturbed.
You can't do too many water changes, although you should only change water when your tests show elevated levels of toxins. Your beneficial bacteria is in the rocks and sand, so you can actually change the water every day if you wanted to... but that would not be practical, nor necessary. For the first couple of months, I would keep an eye on Ammonia, Nitrites, and Nitrates. After Ammonia and Nitrites drop to zero, you should only have to worry about Nitrates. Unless there is a major change in your bio load, bacteria in your system will convert Ammonia to Nitrites, and Nitrites to Nitrates. Water change is the most common way of removing Nitrates. Macro algae and/or a deep sand bed can help reduce Nitrates. (I'm in the process of adding an RDSB to my system to try to ELIMINATE Nitrates). Fish and most invertebrates can handle fairly high levels of Nitrates (NOT Ammonia or Nitrites!). What test results are you getting just before your water changes?
Originally Posted by cav414 http:///t/396155/newbie-help-please/40#post_3532216
I've moved the rocks once a few weeks ago and 2 days ago I depositions my power heads for better flow so hopefully that helps.
I think I do have algae on the live rock i'll get those clean asap, and the grey spot in the sand is actually a big green spot Is that bad? And should I cut back on my water changes? Im doing 10g every two weeks. Sorry for all the questions lol
Positioning your power heads to get good flow to as much area as possible, especially the sand bed, should help.
Try to remove as much algae as possible during water changes. You should be able to suck a good bit off the rock while siphoning the water out.
Different types of bacteria may color the sand as it establishes (colonizes), so I wouldn't worry too much about it. Just try not to disturb the sand bed too much, as the sand bed is an integral part of the natural filtration system. The less you disrupt the bacteria in the sand, the sooner it can adjust to the bio load of the tank. Fluffing the very top layer of the sand by fanning or with a turkey baster is okay, as it keeps the surface clean and un-compacted. The lower section(s) of sand should not be disturbed.
You can't do too many water changes, although you should only change water when your tests show elevated levels of toxins. Your beneficial bacteria is in the rocks and sand, so you can actually change the water every day if you wanted to... but that would not be practical, nor necessary. For the first couple of months, I would keep an eye on Ammonia, Nitrites, and Nitrates. After Ammonia and Nitrites drop to zero, you should only have to worry about Nitrates. Unless there is a major change in your bio load, bacteria in your system will convert Ammonia to Nitrites, and Nitrites to Nitrates. Water change is the most common way of removing Nitrates. Macro algae and/or a deep sand bed can help reduce Nitrates. (I'm in the process of adding an RDSB to my system to try to ELIMINATE Nitrates). Fish and most invertebrates can handle fairly high levels of Nitrates (NOT Ammonia or Nitrites!). What test results are you getting just before your water changes?
brent mccloskey
Member
Another great sand sifter is the fighting conch. I'm planning on getting one or two for my tank.
pegasus
Well-Known Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brent McCloskey http:///t/396155/newbie-help-please/60#post_3532336
Another great sand sifter is the fighting conch. I'm planning on getting one or two for my tank.
These snails are omnivores, so given the chance, they will also eat the critters that live in the sand. Unless you feed them meaty foods regularly, they will more than likely decimate the creatures that are vital to the natural filtration process of sand. In a healthy sand bed, a good population of worms will sift the sand and release trapped Nitrogen gas... the end product of the Ammonia cycle. You'll basically be trading one for the other, so it'll take several snails to sift the entire sand bed efficiently. I'd recommend good population of Nassarius snails. They eat waste and detritus, keep the top layer of sand sifted and un-compacted, and won't bother the sand dwelling creatures. My 2c...
Originally Posted by Brent McCloskey http:///t/396155/newbie-help-please/60#post_3532336
Another great sand sifter is the fighting conch. I'm planning on getting one or two for my tank.
These snails are omnivores, so given the chance, they will also eat the critters that live in the sand. Unless you feed them meaty foods regularly, they will more than likely decimate the creatures that are vital to the natural filtration process of sand. In a healthy sand bed, a good population of worms will sift the sand and release trapped Nitrogen gas... the end product of the Ammonia cycle. You'll basically be trading one for the other, so it'll take several snails to sift the entire sand bed efficiently. I'd recommend good population of Nassarius snails. They eat waste and detritus, keep the top layer of sand sifted and un-compacted, and won't bother the sand dwelling creatures. My 2c...
bang guy
Moderator
I've not ever heard of a Strombus alatus eating a live animal. Have you seen this? I have definitely seen them eat detritus which clearly makes them an omnivore, I've just never heard of them eating live animal flesh.
I agree that Nassarius sp are good and various species of Bristleworms are the best macro animals for a sand bed. In adition there are microfauna that spend their day moving through the sand bed pushing & pulling water with them.
I agree that Nassarius sp are good and various species of Bristleworms are the best macro animals for a sand bed. In adition there are microfauna that spend their day moving through the sand bed pushing & pulling water with them.
cav414
Member
Hi flower,
My fish do eat it all with in 3 minutes.I was told in another thread that it looked like I had caynobacteria (not sure if that's spelled right) I looked it up and I think he was right. So I am cutting back to only a half cube once a day and only running my dusk/dawn light for a few days some of it has already turned gray. I am definitely taking your advice on the snails and brittle star just gotta wait till i'm not broke lol.
Hi pegasus,
I am mainly doing the water changes to clean the little pieces of stuff that comes up when I fluff my substrate (it's a lot) I bought this tank already set up it had been running almost a year I believe. And the guy I bought it from did not take very good care of it. My levels are nitrates 0, nitrites 0, ammonia 0, and ph 7.8 I don't have a rest for phosphate but will get one as soon as I can.
My blue damsel is constantly stirring up my sand could this be messing up my good bacteria? And I also adjusted my power heads to create a turbulent flow that bounces off the front of my tank and hitting my rock i'm hopping that helps with everything. I will try to get a good picture of everything and post it so y'all can get a good look at it.
Thank you all for your help and please keep it coming lol
My fish do eat it all with in 3 minutes.I was told in another thread that it looked like I had caynobacteria (not sure if that's spelled right) I looked it up and I think he was right. So I am cutting back to only a half cube once a day and only running my dusk/dawn light for a few days some of it has already turned gray. I am definitely taking your advice on the snails and brittle star just gotta wait till i'm not broke lol.
Hi pegasus,
I am mainly doing the water changes to clean the little pieces of stuff that comes up when I fluff my substrate (it's a lot) I bought this tank already set up it had been running almost a year I believe. And the guy I bought it from did not take very good care of it. My levels are nitrates 0, nitrites 0, ammonia 0, and ph 7.8 I don't have a rest for phosphate but will get one as soon as I can.
My blue damsel is constantly stirring up my sand could this be messing up my good bacteria? And I also adjusted my power heads to create a turbulent flow that bounces off the front of my tank and hitting my rock i'm hopping that helps with everything. I will try to get a good picture of everything and post it so y'all can get a good look at it.
Thank you all for your help and please keep it coming lol
cav414
Member
I have my power heads hitting my rock very well now, hopefully I will be able to post pictures tomorrow I am on a 24 hr shift today. I have a brown algae on one rock and in the last 2 days two of my rock have started turning a very beautiful dark red I hope that is a good algae because it really looks awesome and I would love to keep it. Thanks you all very much and i'm sorry for all the questions my tank has become an addiction already lol
pegasus
Well-Known Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bang Guy http:///t/396155/newbie-help-please/60#post_3532358
I've not ever heard of a Strombus alatus eating a live animal. Have you seen this? I have definitely seen them eat detritus which clearly makes them an omnivore, I've just never heard of them eating live animal flesh.
I agree that Nassarius sp are good and various species of Bristleworms are the best macro animals for a sand bed. In adition there are microfauna that spend their day moving through the sand bed pushing & pulling water with them.
I haven't witnessed it. I am basing my theory on some of the overviews I've read on this snail. For instance:
(Anonymous competitor's website)
The beneficial Fighting Conch is not as aggressive as its name implies. Though a male Fighting Conch can be territorial towards other males of its own kind, the Fighting Conch is peaceful towards other tankmates. The Fighting Conch is a suitable addition to any home reef aquarium, where it will use its excellent sand sifting abilities to clean and aerate the substrate.
Praised for their hardiness, the Fighting Conch requires open, deep sand beds in which it can forage for food. Though multiple Fighting Conches should be housed in larger systems, single specimens are suited for any size reef aquarium. Keep in mind that the Fighting Conch has a voracious appetite; as such, supplemental feeding is required in smaller systems and recommended in even the largest aquarium setups.
Classified as an omnivore, the Fighting Conch will consume detritus from your aquarium substrate. Supply pieces of fresh fish and dried seaweed, as well as high quality frozen foods to supplement the diet of the Fighting Conch. Like other invertebrates, the Fighting Conch is sensitive to high levels of nitrate and will not tolerate copper-based medications.
Originally Posted by Bang Guy http:///t/396155/newbie-help-please/60#post_3532358
I've not ever heard of a Strombus alatus eating a live animal. Have you seen this? I have definitely seen them eat detritus which clearly makes them an omnivore, I've just never heard of them eating live animal flesh.
I agree that Nassarius sp are good and various species of Bristleworms are the best macro animals for a sand bed. In adition there are microfauna that spend their day moving through the sand bed pushing & pulling water with them.
I haven't witnessed it. I am basing my theory on some of the overviews I've read on this snail. For instance:
(Anonymous competitor's website)
The beneficial Fighting Conch is not as aggressive as its name implies. Though a male Fighting Conch can be territorial towards other males of its own kind, the Fighting Conch is peaceful towards other tankmates. The Fighting Conch is a suitable addition to any home reef aquarium, where it will use its excellent sand sifting abilities to clean and aerate the substrate.
Praised for their hardiness, the Fighting Conch requires open, deep sand beds in which it can forage for food. Though multiple Fighting Conches should be housed in larger systems, single specimens are suited for any size reef aquarium. Keep in mind that the Fighting Conch has a voracious appetite; as such, supplemental feeding is required in smaller systems and recommended in even the largest aquarium setups.
Classified as an omnivore, the Fighting Conch will consume detritus from your aquarium substrate. Supply pieces of fresh fish and dried seaweed, as well as high quality frozen foods to supplement the diet of the Fighting Conch. Like other invertebrates, the Fighting Conch is sensitive to high levels of nitrate and will not tolerate copper-based medications.
pegasus
Well-Known Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by cav414 http:///t/396155/newbie-help-please/60#post_3532374
I have my power heads hitting my rock very well now, hopefully I will be able to post pictures tomorrow I am on a 24 hr shift today. I have a brown algae on one rock and in the last 2 days two of my rock have started turning a very beautiful dark red I hope that is a good algae because it really looks awesome and I would love to keep it. Thanks you all very much and i'm sorry for all the questions my tank has become an addiction already lol
Red coralline algae is a very good algae. Once it starts, it will spread and cover all of your rocks.
Originally Posted by cav414 http:///t/396155/newbie-help-please/60#post_3532374
I have my power heads hitting my rock very well now, hopefully I will be able to post pictures tomorrow I am on a 24 hr shift today. I have a brown algae on one rock and in the last 2 days two of my rock have started turning a very beautiful dark red I hope that is a good algae because it really looks awesome and I would love to keep it. Thanks you all very much and i'm sorry for all the questions my tank has become an addiction already lol
Red coralline algae is a very good algae. Once it starts, it will spread and cover all of your rocks.
cav414
Member
Awesome, so let me know if I have this right coralline algae eats the same stuff as the cayno and other bad algae so the more it grows the less problems i'll have with the bad stuff? And also I was thinking (not good for me lol) could my sand maybe be under populated by bacteria, and critters? But then my levels would all be maintaining as well as they are right see not good for me to think.
pegasus
Well-Known Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by cav414 http:///t/396155/newbie-help-please/60#post_3532385
Awesome, so let me know if I have this right coralline algae eats the same stuff as the cayno and other bad algae so the more it grows the less problems i'll have with the bad stuff? And also I was thinking (not good for me lol) could my sand maybe be under populated by bacteria, and critters? But then my levels would all be maintaining as well as they are right see not good for me to think.
Coralline algae is good algae, and will help to a small extent. As long as Nitrates and Phosphorus are low, you shouldn't have problems with nuisance algae. Diatoms usually appear after the tank is completing it's nitrogen cycle. They normally will disappear if water conditions are good. If water conditions aren't ideal, it can be a precursor to nuisance algae. Cyano is a bacteria that is a lot more difficult to deal with. It creates a red or blue/green slime that grows on (mainly) the substrate where light is reaching. It does turn gray in the absence of light, but blooms back out as soon as light reaches it. It can be difficult to get rid of, but products like Chemi-Clean will help. I noticed your pH is 7.8. The generally accepted pH level in a basic saltwater system is between 7.6 and 8.4, but reef tanks are more sensitive, and therefore need to be kept at the higher end of the pH scale, 8.0 to 8.4. If your pH is higher after a water change, but drops significantly afterwards, you may need to use a buffer to stabilize it. What kind of aeration do you provide? High levels of C02 can reduce alkalinity. Does your tank have a tight fitting lid? Those can reduce gas exchange. Since you keep up with water changes and test results are good, acids from metabolic waste shouldn't be a factor. Some salts may do a better job of buffering than others. I use Reef Crystals. Not only because I have a few corals, but it contains a lot of vital minerals that help maintain a fairly constant pH. There are many brands out there, but they are not all created equally...
Originally Posted by cav414 http:///t/396155/newbie-help-please/60#post_3532385
Awesome, so let me know if I have this right coralline algae eats the same stuff as the cayno and other bad algae so the more it grows the less problems i'll have with the bad stuff? And also I was thinking (not good for me lol) could my sand maybe be under populated by bacteria, and critters? But then my levels would all be maintaining as well as they are right see not good for me to think.
Coralline algae is good algae, and will help to a small extent. As long as Nitrates and Phosphorus are low, you shouldn't have problems with nuisance algae. Diatoms usually appear after the tank is completing it's nitrogen cycle. They normally will disappear if water conditions are good. If water conditions aren't ideal, it can be a precursor to nuisance algae. Cyano is a bacteria that is a lot more difficult to deal with. It creates a red or blue/green slime that grows on (mainly) the substrate where light is reaching. It does turn gray in the absence of light, but blooms back out as soon as light reaches it. It can be difficult to get rid of, but products like Chemi-Clean will help. I noticed your pH is 7.8. The generally accepted pH level in a basic saltwater system is between 7.6 and 8.4, but reef tanks are more sensitive, and therefore need to be kept at the higher end of the pH scale, 8.0 to 8.4. If your pH is higher after a water change, but drops significantly afterwards, you may need to use a buffer to stabilize it. What kind of aeration do you provide? High levels of C02 can reduce alkalinity. Does your tank have a tight fitting lid? Those can reduce gas exchange. Since you keep up with water changes and test results are good, acids from metabolic waste shouldn't be a factor. Some salts may do a better job of buffering than others. I use Reef Crystals. Not only because I have a few corals, but it contains a lot of vital minerals that help maintain a fairly constant pH. There are many brands out there, but they are not all created equally...
cav414
Member
I don't have a red or blue/green alone so it must not be cayno. It's brown and on my rock killing my star polips 
that's the only thing close to coral I have and my aeration comes from my overflow filter and power heads. Im not sure about the alkalinity unfortunately i'll have to see if one of my rest kits at home test for it I know my api kit doesn't. And is there a recommended brand for testing phosphates? I've gotten a little scared of using api since It freaked me out on my nitrate test which is why I use 2 different kits now
that's the only thing close to coral I have and my aeration comes from my overflow filter and power heads. Im not sure about the alkalinity unfortunately i'll have to see if one of my rest kits at home test for it I know my api kit doesn't. And is there a recommended brand for testing phosphates? I've gotten a little scared of using api since It freaked me out on my nitrate test which is why I use 2 different kits now
pegasus
Well-Known Member
If you still have it, API Marine kits have a test for pH, which is a measure of overall alkalinity. It won't measure water hardness, and can be a little hard to read, but it will give a general idea of what the pH is. I use RO/DI water and my sand is CaribSea Seaflor Special, so I don't test for Phosphates. Sorry...
cav414
Member
I still use it that's what have me the 7.8 for ph I just don't use the nitrate test for it. And I have crushed coral for substrate i'm not sure what brand it was in the tank when I bought it I was told in a previous post that it is harder to keep clean so I was thinking of slowly adding live sand to it
pegasus
Well-Known Member
Crushed coral requires a lot more cleaning, as it traps a lot of organics that would otherwise get filtered out. Adding small amounts of a fine aragonite sand over a period of time will help "seal" the substrate. I recommend Aragonite because it has a lot of elements that slowly release into the water, and these elements help to buffer your pH (keep it stable). In order for a sand bed to work properly, it needs to have oxygen in the top layer, and little to no oxygen in the bottom layer. Aerobic bacteria lives in the top layer, and this bacteria converts Nitrites into Nitrates. Anaerobic bacteria lives in the oxygen depleted level of sand, and converts Nitrates into Nitrogen. If you look at a healthy sand bed, you can see bubbles in the upper layer. These bubbles are Nitrogen gas bubbles that will eventually make their way into the water column and dissipate into the atmosphere. Having some kind of sand sifters help to release the bubbles, as well as keeping the top layer of sand loose, making it easier for the Nitrogen bubbles to rise up through the sand. The problem with moving your rocks around is that it disturbs these layers of substrate, and hinders the filtration process. Decaying matter and disrupted bacteria can lead to a build up of Hydrogen Chloride, which is toxic to your tank. Long story short... a deep sand bed is far better than crushed coral if you want it to help with the filtration process. You can build up the sand bed without moving anything in your tank. Just do it slowly and gradually. Small patches over several weeks should be okay. Blast a small patch of the crushed coral to get rid of debris, and gently stir the sand into that patch. Wait several days to let things settle, and then do another small patch elsewhere. It will take time and patience, but it will be worth it in the end.