nothing but aggrivation.

posiden

posiden

Active Member
Originally Posted by Salt Life
http:///forum/post/2995076
I understand what your saying, should I make the drain pipe lower in the tank too? its probably like an inch from the top of the black box... If i make it shorter will it drain more?
No, making it shorter will just lower the weir that is created by the shape of the plumbing. In doing so, you could create noise from the water entering the OF.
 
salt life

salt life

Active Member
Originally Posted by Posiden
http:///forum/post/2995087
No, making it shorter will just lower the weir that is created by the shape of the plumbing. In doing so, you could create noise from the water entering the OF.
so the T is my problem? if i change the T out then my sump will stabalize and i wont have to fill it more and the older 75g will stay at a good level?
 
posiden

posiden

Active Member
Originally Posted by Salt Life
http:///forum/post/2995088
so the T is my problem? if i change the T out then my sump will stabalize and i wont have to fill it more and the older 75g will stay at a good level?

I believe the T is a problem however.......If there is no drain noise, then I would install ball valves on the return line (you will need two) you could then custom taylor the return flow to each tank. One will get more then the other.
If it were me...I would rework both. But I am an anal retentive p$#@. I just don't like to take chances. Also it is easy for me to say, it isn't my money we are spending here.
 
posiden

posiden

Active Member
You are kinda throwing me with the fill it more thing. Are you in reference to evaporation?
Are you getting a surging in the older 75?
 
salt life

salt life

Active Member
Originally Posted by Posiden
http:///forum/post/2995104
You are kinda throwing me with the fill it more thing. Are you in reference to evaporation?
Are you getting a surging in the older 75?
i have to top off alot because i lose alot of water in my skimmer/RP section, when i top it off, my older 75g fills up. what im trying to do is get a little bit more drainage from my older 75g so it levels out.
 
posiden

posiden

Active Member
Do you just have a drilled hole and a strainer on the old 75 for the drain?
Then, when you add top off water to the sump the level changes in the old DT?
 
salt life

salt life

Active Member
Originally Posted by Posiden
http:///forum/post/2995142
Do you just have a drilled hole and a strainer on the old 75 for the drain?
Then, when you add top off water to the sump the level changes in the old DT?
the old 75g is a pre drilled with the black over flow inside with the holes in the bottom.
and when i add top off water, the level in the older DT rises and the sump gets low again
 
posiden

posiden

Active Member
The return, Is the run equal on both sides? If not then there is a pressure difference between the two. If that is unequal to the drain sequence then funny things are going to happen. Are the drains quite? If so then I would look at putting ball valves on the returns so you can cut flow to the old tank and give more to the new tank.
 
salt life

salt life

Active Member
Originally Posted by Posiden
http:///forum/post/2995160
The return, Is the run equal on both sides? If not then there is a pressure difference between the two. If that is unequal to the drain sequence then funny things are going to happen. Are the drains quite? If so then I would look at putting ball valves on the returns so you can cut flow to the old tank and give more to the new tank.
the new tank should have enough because it has a straight shot up to the bulkhead, the older tank has 2 90s and then it has to go like 4 feet to the left then up like 2 feet back into the tank, theres no way to maybe make the drain pipe wider in the older 75g like with a widening coupling or whatever they are called?
 
posiden

posiden

Active Member
Originally Posted by Salt Life
http:///forum/post/2995172
the new tank should have enough because it has a straight shot up to the bulkhead, the older tank has 2 90s and then it has to go like 4 feet to the left then up like 2 feet back into the tank, theres no way to maybe make the drain pipe wider in the older 75g?

You absolutely can make it bigger. I know that the smallest opening will dictate the flow. However in this case the drain pipe isn't causing the issue. The routing of two drains is the issue. If you would like to make the drain plumbing bigger after the bulk head fitting, by all means do so. The fact that the pump is putting out 763 GPH tells me that you don't have to change the drain pipe inside the OF. A 1.5" drain can handel 763 GPH.
In reality where the drains come together, there should be as smooth of a merger as possible. Also the drain size should double. So it should have a sanitary T fitting and after the two 1.5" drains come together it should have a 3" pipe after that.
I hope this makes sense....in my head it does.
 
salt life

salt life

Active Member
Originally Posted by Posiden
http:///forum/post/2995189
You absolutely can make it bigger. I know that the smallest opening will dictate the flow. However in this case the drain pipe isn't causing the issue. The routing of two drains is the issue. If you would like to make the drain plumbing bigger after the bulk head fitting, by all means do so. The fact that the pump is putting out 763 GPH tells me that you don't have to change the drain pipe inside the OF. A 1.5" drain can handel 763 GPH.
In reality where the drains come together, there should be as smooth of a merger as possible. Also the drain size should double. So it should have a sanitary T fitting and after the two 1.5" drains come together it should have a 3" pipe after that.
I hope this makes sense....in my head it does.
it makes sense, would switching out the T be easy or will i have to re do all my plumbing? the sanitary T is the one that has the curved part right?
If i change this out and put in a new T, the sump will stay at the proper level, not go down so fast, and my older 75g will not raise level?
 
posiden

posiden

Active Member
Lest see if I can draw this.
D..........D........................R............R
D..........D........................R............R
D..........D........................R............R
DDDDDDD.........................RRRRRRRRRR
............D.....................................R
............D.....................................R
............D.....................................R
............D.....................................R
If your plumbing looks like this then there is going to be a problem if you don't have ball valves. The flow is going to take the path of least resistance. So ask your self would you go in a straight line or would you go around a corner to get to point B with the least amount of effort.
The D's represent the drain and the R's, well you get it.
 
salt life

salt life

Active Member
Originally Posted by Posiden
http:///forum/post/2995209
Lest see if I can draw this.
D D R R
D D R R
D D R R
DDDDDDD RRRRRRRRRR
D R
D R
D R
D R
If your plumbing looks like this then there is going to be a problem if you don't have ball valves. The flow is going to take the path of least resistance. So ask your self would you go in a straight line or would you go around a corner to get to point B with the least amount of effort.
The D's represent the drain and the R's, well you get it.
ok u lost me on that. but if i get the curved T which is the sanitary T. my troubles will be over?
http://www.pexsupply.com/img/categor...tary%20Tee.jpg
 
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