nothing but aggrivation.

posiden

posiden

Active Member
Originally Posted by Salt Life
http:///forum/post/2995199
it makes sense, would switching out the T be easy or will i have to re do all my plumbing? the sanitary T is the one that has the curved part right?
If i change this out and put in a new T, the sump will stay at the proper level, not go down so fast, and my older 75g will not raise level?
Please ignore the periods it wouldn't let me do spaces.
Yes, a sanitary T has the curve. I would think all new plumbing is in order if it is glued together.

Bro, try blocking the output of the old 75 to reduce the incoming flow. If that works then putting ball valves on the return to reduce incoming flow to that tank will work.
 
salt life

salt life

Active Member
Originally Posted by Posiden
http:///forum/post/2995227
Please ignore the periods it wouldn't let me do spaces.
Yes, a sanitary T has the curve. I would think all new plumbing is in order if it is glued together.

Bro, try blocking the output of the old 75 to reduce the incoming flow. If that works then putting ball valves on the return to reduce incoming flow to that tank will work.
well i can make a cut and replace the T and that should be all i need to do, then ill get wider PVC. the problem is the pump is pushing more water in then is draining right? so your saying try blocking the return, and see if it levels out?
 
salt life

salt life

Active Member
Originally Posted by Posiden
http:///forum/post/2995247
Right. Just use your hand to see.
ok thank you I really apreciate the help, i need to go to bed though because my heads about to fall off. tomorrow i will put my hand over the return pipe in the tank and see what happens then let you know. have a good night
 
salt life

salt life

Active Member
Originally Posted by Posiden
http:///forum/post/2995274
Common, you go to sleep and not log off.............
lol yeah I have it on "remember me" so I don't have to sign in every time I come to the site.
but for the update, I put my finger over the return pipe and the tank went down and the sump went up, but I had to almost cover the pipe completely, if i put a ball valve on and kick it back that much wouldn't that be bad?
 
salt life

salt life

Active Member
ok so I put the ball valve on the return line part that goes to the older 75g. didn't kick it back or anything yet, turned the RP back on, and the water didn't rise, it has stayed level. so now I'm confused, I cut like 2 inches out of the return line to get the ball valve in, could that be any part of it? I filled my sump back up to just over my skimmer pump, and i will see if it rises...
 
posiden

posiden

Active Member
Ball valves put restriction on the flow. It is not a lot though. I wouldn't suspect that by just installing it it would solve the problem. In general I do believe that by just chocking down the flow it would hurt the pump but, in your case it would just flow more to the other tank. No extra pressure on the pump.
Now, from what you have said. That tells me you have a bit of restriction on the drain where the two come together. Like I was saying last night, you need to put on a sanitary T and make the drain bigger from there to the sump/fug.
Please answer this Q this time; Are your drains loud?
 
salt life

salt life

Active Member
Originally Posted by Posiden
http:///forum/post/2995649
Ball valves put restriction on the flow. It is not a lot though. I wouldn't suspect that by just installing it it would solve the problem. In general I do believe that by just chocking down the flow it would hurt the pump but, in your case it would just flow more to the other tank. No extra pressure on the pump.
Now, from what you have said. That tells me you have a bit of restriction on the drain where the two come together. Like I was saying last night, you need to put on a sanitary T and make the drain bigger from there to the sump/fug.
Please answer this Q this time; Are your drains loud?
no they aren't loud, I glued the ball valve in place, and all i had to do is put it back a tiny bit and it solved the problem, the sump has stayed at a constant level for the past 3 hours. the newer 75g didnt rise or anything and is seems to handle the little extra flowing into the tank with the extra overflow on it.
 
meowzer

meowzer

Moderator
Originally Posted by Salt Life
http:///forum/post/2995726
no they aren't loud, I glued the ball valve in place, and all i had to do is put it back a tiny bit and it solved the problem, the sump has stayed at a constant level for the past 3 hours. the newer 75g didnt rise or anything and is seems to handle the little extra flowing into the tank with the extra overflow on it.
YAYYYY
 
posiden

posiden

Active Member
Sorry friend, I have been busy doing chores. But I got a lot done today.
I will answer your question here since the new issue you have is caused by this new addition. As Spanko has said, if there is any, i mean any possible way for air to get in the plumbing it will cause air bubbles. As you said that the new valve is wet, then you have a leak. That is causing your air bubble problem now.
It sounds like you have already figured it out tho. So just do what you need to to get the valve sealed up nice and tight.
I am glad that we got it figured out for you.
 
salt life

salt life

Active Member
Originally Posted by Posiden
http:///forum/post/2996105
Sorry friend, I have been busy doing chores. But I got a lot done today.
I will answer your question here since the new issue you have is caused by this new addition. As Spanko has said, if there is any, i mean any possible way for air to get in the plumbing it will cause air bubbles. As you said that the new valve is wet, then you have a leak. That is causing your air bubble problem now.
It sounds like you have already figured it out tho. So just do what you need to to get the valve sealed up nice and tight.
I am glad that we got it figured out for you.
thank you posiden for all the help with this and the other thread, you and spanko are great

and meowzer is good for laughs
 
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