Phosphates Problem Need Some Help!!!!!

tdog7879

tdog7879

Member
For some odd reason i can not control my phosphates they hover between.
.25-.50 on a API test. I use r/o water from LFS. Today i just bought some phosban. Hope that works! I had been using kent sponge no luck! In the process of high phosphates iam having cyano problem. I feed frozen food rinse from a PUR fliter from the sink then i drain it and put some tank water in the cup and put it in the frig. Also i feed every other day. What can i do to fix this problem???
THANKS
 
nycbob

nycbob

Active Member
hv u tested the ro water u got from the lfs for phosphate? phosphate has to come from somewhere; either water or the frozen food. i'd say its more likely the ro water, bc frozen food contain very little phosphate. u can always get cheato for ur fuge to absorb it.
 
tdog7879

tdog7879

Member
Originally Posted by nycbob
http:///forum/post/2757729
hv u tested the ro water u got from the lfs for phosphate? phosphate has to come from somewhere; either water or the frozen food. i'd say its more likely the ro water, bc frozen food contain very little phosphate. u can always get cheato for ur fuge to absorb it.
I don't have a fuge
But a DSB not if that helps but i do test the water from the LFS and it is 0 on a API TEST . The store has a good rep. Do you you think it could be coming from the DSB? thats where all the cyano is. But only on one side of the tank (cyano).
 
nycbob

nycbob

Active Member
yes. any level above .25 will slow or stop the growth of corals. i dont think its the dsb. what is ur livestock list?
 
gmann1139

gmann1139

Active Member
DSB = Deep Sand Bed.
If you have a phosphate problem, my personal experience is that the best solution is a fuge. I built an in-tank that, with the help of the chaeto inside it, of course, cleared up my cyano/phosphate problem within a week. You could almost watch the cyano recede it happened so fast.
 
tdog7879

tdog7879

Member
Originally Posted by nycbob
http:///forum/post/2757743
yes. any level above .25 will slow or stop the growth of corals. i dont think its the dsb. what is ur livestock list?
So do you think i am in a safe zone at .25? What else do you think im doing to get these phosphates?
 
tdog7879

tdog7879

Member
Originally Posted by gmann1139
http:///forum/post/2757749
DSB = Deep Sand Bed.
If you have a phosphate problem, my personal experience is that the best solution is a fuge. I built an in-tank that, with the help of the chaeto inside it, of course, cleared up my cyano/phosphate problem within a week. You could almost watch the cyano recede it happened so fast.
How did you build it?
 
stanlalee

stanlalee

Active Member
0.25-0.50 is not terrible unless you are keeping SPS. LPS and soft corals will grow and thrive fine in that. I would like to know how you are coming up with 0.25 since the API kit is scaled at 0.0 and goes straight to 0.5ppm. You need a test kit that reads finer than the API to really make anything out of it (it basically goes from none to high all in the first reading). Phosban (ferric oxide) should work better faster than the kent sponge (alum oxide) and is safer.
 
tdog7879

tdog7879

Member
Originally Posted by Stanlalee
http:///forum/post/2757840
0.25-0.50 is not terrible unless you are keeping SPS. LPS and soft corals will grow and thrive fine in that. I would like to know how you are coming up with 0.25 since the API kit is scaled at 0.0 and goes straight to 0.5ppm. You need a test kit that reads finer than the API to really make anything out of it (it basically goes from none to high all in the first reading). Phosban (ferric oxide) should work better faster than the kent sponge (alum oxide) and is safer.
mY API TEST (CHART 0 .25 .50 .1)
I do have a frogspawn the rest are zoas xenia mushrooms. Do you think my phosphates are causeing the cyano?
 
keebler

keebler

Member
Well, it is likely that your phosphates are causing the cyano, but I have 0 phosphates because I run cheato and cyano is still present. This is because I have excess nutrients due to the fact that I am not currently running a skimmer. Anyway, contrary to popular belief, a fuge doesn't have to be that expensive. If you have a hob filter, you may be able to add some cheato and a clip on light.
 
tdog7879

tdog7879

Member
Originally Posted by Keebler
http:///forum/post/2757879
Well, it is likely that your phosphates are causing the cyano, but I have 0 phosphates because I run cheato and cyano is still present. This is because I have excess nutrients due to the fact that I am not currently running a skimmer. Anyway, contrary to popular belief, a fuge doesn't have to be that expensive. If you have a hob filter, you may be able to add some cheato and a clip on light.
I do have a auqa clear 70 HOB do you no how to convert it to a mini fuge? What kinda of light can be used? How about a CFL light you use for your house lamps?
 
keebler

keebler

Member
I you can put cheato in it without clogging it up or causing other problems, then sure it can be a fuge. The lighting for cheato doesn't have to be anything spectacular.
 
tdog7879

tdog7879

Member
Originally Posted by Stanlalee
http:///forum/post/2757914
oh mine must be outdated. what color is .25? mine goes from 0.0 rust color to light green for 0.5
0.0 is a light tint yellow .25 has a slight green tint 0.5 is more of a green color and 1.0 is a blue green.
 
S

suv

Guest
I am having the same problem. Normaly at .03ppm, but today was .1-.3ppm. I use only RO water and have a skimmer. I am glad to see a fuge helps with this. I have had my new setup up since sat. w/ a new wet/dry and am already planing on building my own sump w/ a fuge soon.
 
salt210

salt210

Active Member
I have been fighting both high posphates and nitrates for awhile now. I added a fuge and both have started to drop. I run the lights that came on the tank with bulbs that I bought from the wally world fish center
 
mr_x

mr_x

Active Member
you can use a basic 6500k energy saver bulb from lowes or the depot. read the bulb itself. the kelvin temp is usually on the ballast part of the bulb.
 
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