V
vince-1961
Guest
Hi folks. I am re-doing my plumbing. Because I am extremely sensitive to constant humming noises, like electric motors and fans (can we say pumps, computers and refridgerators?), I have GOT to place the pumps in another room before I go insane. My choices were the garage about 15 feet to the right of the aquarium, or outside just behind the aquarium. I chose outside, because the exterior wall already has an opening cut into it as required by local code on flooding and because I can discharge water directly to ground during water changes.
I am starting with the addition of a closed-loop powered by a ReefFlo Dart, the stats on which are 3,600 gph at 0 head using full 2" input and 1.5" output. Restricting the out lines to smaller ID powers it down and uses less wattage. Will use two 1" SCWD for wavemakers after a run of 1.5" leading to a Tee out of which will come two 1" lines.
We begin outside.
Attachment 210592
Attachment 210596
I've already forgotten one thing on this dry fit run, namely the addition of a Tee in between the two 45 degree turns on the 2" drain line. Off that Tee, I will put a ball valve and a pipe leading away from the pump for water changes. No more siphoning into 30 gallon RubberMaid trash cans and making a mess in the process!!!
Now, the pump has to be removable in case it needs servicing, but I don't want to break down whole system or lose the water in the pipes as the pump is not self-priming. So just on the inside of the wall, I have a single union ball valve on both the drain and return lines. The ball valve stays in place, keeping water in the pipe while the union slides out of the wall and then that section can be unscrewed from the pump.
Attachment 210595
Attachment 210598
Here is what is at the top of the 2" drain line. The idea is to attach 1" lines from the DT on each side. The middle part has a cap. The purpose of the cap is to provide an opening through which I can pour water to fill up the 2" drain line all the way to the pump, because the pump is not self-priming. I am worried that this is going to create an air pocket which may make noise. On the other hand, the copper plumbing for all bathtubs and showers has an extra piece leading up with air in it to eliminate "knocking." Maybe the air pocket this opening creates will provide "anti-knock" instead of noise.
Anyone know the answer to this question before I glue this in permanently?
Attachment 210597
I am starting with the addition of a closed-loop powered by a ReefFlo Dart, the stats on which are 3,600 gph at 0 head using full 2" input and 1.5" output. Restricting the out lines to smaller ID powers it down and uses less wattage. Will use two 1" SCWD for wavemakers after a run of 1.5" leading to a Tee out of which will come two 1" lines.
We begin outside.
Attachment 210592
Attachment 210596
I've already forgotten one thing on this dry fit run, namely the addition of a Tee in between the two 45 degree turns on the 2" drain line. Off that Tee, I will put a ball valve and a pipe leading away from the pump for water changes. No more siphoning into 30 gallon RubberMaid trash cans and making a mess in the process!!!
Now, the pump has to be removable in case it needs servicing, but I don't want to break down whole system or lose the water in the pipes as the pump is not self-priming. So just on the inside of the wall, I have a single union ball valve on both the drain and return lines. The ball valve stays in place, keeping water in the pipe while the union slides out of the wall and then that section can be unscrewed from the pump.
Attachment 210595
Attachment 210598
Here is what is at the top of the 2" drain line. The idea is to attach 1" lines from the DT on each side. The middle part has a cap. The purpose of the cap is to provide an opening through which I can pour water to fill up the 2" drain line all the way to the pump, because the pump is not self-priming. I am worried that this is going to create an air pocket which may make noise. On the other hand, the copper plumbing for all bathtubs and showers has an extra piece leading up with air in it to eliminate "knocking." Maybe the air pocket this opening creates will provide "anti-knock" instead of noise.
Anyone know the answer to this question before I glue this in permanently?
Attachment 210597