acrylic51
Active Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by SnakeBlitz33 http:///t/392103/snakes-official-110g-build-thread#post_3480264
So, i need help with a decision:
Kalkwasser stirrer and calcium reactor with pH probe controlled by the profilux 2
Or
Balling method with the triple automatic dosers controlled with the profilux 2 (with the probes)
Decisions, decisions.
A ca reactor adds not only ca and alk, but can also add mg and trace elements but does somewhat decrease pH because of the co2. Kalkwasser reactor adds ca and alk to the tank and also increases pH.
Balling method only doses three main parts and no trace. I could add some Kent's essentials to make up the trace in between water changes.
I'm still doing research in this area myself and not entirely sure which method I'll go, but if you like I can shoot you some good plans if you want to build your own Ca reactor.....I started mine a long time ago, but haven't had time to finish it......
Quote:
Originally Posted by SnakeBlitz33 http:///t/392103/snakes-official-110g-build-thread#post_3479989
Ah, isn't this exciting? A new reef tank being born? I talked to my wife about setting up the old 110g tank as soon as she starts teaching... YES... TEACHING! She just got a job! WOOT WOOT. Anyways - now that we will be making more money, I get to have a bigger tank.
She doesn't start teaching till August and I have no idea when I can get some financial backing for it - but I know for a fact that I am going to get it set up and running as soon as possible.
Therefore, here are a few pics of the tank and something I made in Google Sketchup. Please, realize that I have only had the program and toyed around with it for the last two days and no more.
Breakdown:
110g show tank
Custom 20g sump
Bean-Animal overflow
10g refugium with 4" deep sand bed, live rock rubble and chaetomorpha algae
Octopus cone skimmer (not decided which one yet)
Instant Ocean salt
Used Calcium Reactor
Water container for extra water volume and used for water changes.
Mag 9 return pump
UAS (Underwater/Upflow Algae Scrubber on the side of the refugium
2x200w heaters - titanium
Profilux 2 controller
Either a DIY LED fixture or just wait to buy a couple of those chinese led fixtures.
Auto Top Off unit - also has float valve on the RO Reservoir to continuously top it off. No more worrying about putting water in the tank.
2 Vortech MP40s
2" sand bed with course sand (Keeps it from blowing around with those vortechs)
Stand:
Peninsula style stand
Door open light
5 fans on Temp controller
Floating wooden top
Sealed bottom
36" tall
Side cabinet is 7'6" tall.
Electrical panel on switches to easily turn off components that are not connected to the Profilux 2 controller.
Polyurethaned ******** and exterior.
Stocklist:
Suggestions?
I'm thinking about this:
Mimic tang
Yellow tang
bi color blennie
yellow and black chromis (schooling)
Oscellaris pair
mandarin dragonet
Wrasse of some sort
Yup - that's pretty much it. Or - if I can save a little money I might be able to buy some of the cool fish on Divers Den.
Corals:
Lots of SPS at the top of the tank
LPS like hammers, frogspawn and acans in the middle
Zoas, green star polyps, tube anemone, colt/kenya/nepthea, orange sun coral at bottom level.
Yeah, kind of a mixed tank. I know how some people say don't mix SPS with other types of corals, but I have done this successfully with a lot of carbon. lol
Inverts:
Peppermint shrimp 2-3
Cleaner shrimp pair
cucumber
conch
cleaner clams
nassarious snails
zebra snails
nerite snails
turbo snails
I'd ditch the Yellow and swap another tang in it's place.....Just my .02
Quote:
Originally Posted by SnakeBlitz33 http:///t/392103/snakes-official-110g-build-thread#post_3479995
If you notice, I already put in the beananimal overflow in the background, but I am going to tweak it some. On both ends, I'm going to come in with it a little bit so that I can fit a couple of return pipes. OR, I could spend the extra money and buy a couple of sea swirls. I don't know if they are worth the money. Anyone?
Keep in mind, I've only been playing with google Sketchup for two days - so go lightly on me.
Thoughts or comments on the stand?
Looks very good......I'd paint the side wall with the overflow on black and use black acrylic for my overflow box.....Shouldn't stand out much or detract from the appearance. 1 1/2" bulkheads sched 80 style.....
an>Quote:
Originally Posted by SnakeBlitz33 http:///t/392103/snakes-official-110g-build-thread#post_3480007
Yeah, like I said in the beginning - it's going to be a long road and a slow build. Probably not as long as 2Quills though. lol I figure I might have to build the stand in place, or build it in two pieces - the canopy and top cabinet for one and then the lower cabinet. That way I don't have to cut the stand to get it out of the next apartment we move into before we get a house.
I'd definitely build in several pieces.....Makes everything a lot easier, but at times can really complicate things, but would be easier to move and modify things if needed.
Quote:
Originally Posted by SnakeBlitz33 http:///t/392103/snakes-official-110g-build-thread#post_3480162
Then again, i could build the stand 24" wide and make room for a ten gallon tank that is baffled and contains calcium, alkalinity and magnesium and use my profilux 2 controller for automatic dosing using the balling method. On one end have a 10g tank for the dosing and on the other have a water reservoir for an auto top off unit.
Soo many possibilities at this point. Ill have plenty of time to think about it. Thoughts? Comments? Suggestions?
I'd opt for a wider stand as you guys are thinking.......You can easily stuff a 55 under the 110, and probably could stick pretty close to your original dimensions with a little creativity in the design of the top of the stand. And in all honesty if you would use torsion panels in conjunction with pocket holes it should be plenty strong enough that you could eliminate any need for a center brace. All comes down to how you want to build the stand, but a center support definitely isn't needed.
Quote:
Originally Posted by SnakeBlitz33 http:///t/392103/snakes-official-110g-build-thread#post_3480172
The sump will have mechanical filtration on one side, the return in the middle and a nice sized fuge area on the other end. Im going to use a small powerheAd to pump water to the fuge. The return plumbing will be ran up the cabinet side and will be split three ways. First split is the water change container which will add an extra 25g to the system. The second and third split will put two returns into the tank.
I remember you mentioned about shortening your overflow box to accommodate your returns or Vortech placement......Very good idea IMO. Actually if your doing the drilling, why not make the tank as sleek and clean as possible and drill your returns in that panel and use loc line to direct your flow.....I'm rather anal with attention to detail at times, and seeing pipes up and over or white PVC inside the DT automatically draws my attention away from the inhabitants for whatever reason.....It's attention to little details that sets tanks apart again IMO.....
Originally Posted by SnakeBlitz33 http:///t/392103/snakes-official-110g-build-thread#post_3480264
So, i need help with a decision:
Kalkwasser stirrer and calcium reactor with pH probe controlled by the profilux 2
Or
Balling method with the triple automatic dosers controlled with the profilux 2 (with the probes)
Decisions, decisions.
A ca reactor adds not only ca and alk, but can also add mg and trace elements but does somewhat decrease pH because of the co2. Kalkwasser reactor adds ca and alk to the tank and also increases pH.
Balling method only doses three main parts and no trace. I could add some Kent's essentials to make up the trace in between water changes.
I'm still doing research in this area myself and not entirely sure which method I'll go, but if you like I can shoot you some good plans if you want to build your own Ca reactor.....I started mine a long time ago, but haven't had time to finish it......
Quote:
Originally Posted by SnakeBlitz33 http:///t/392103/snakes-official-110g-build-thread#post_3479989
Ah, isn't this exciting? A new reef tank being born? I talked to my wife about setting up the old 110g tank as soon as she starts teaching... YES... TEACHING! She just got a job! WOOT WOOT. Anyways - now that we will be making more money, I get to have a bigger tank.
She doesn't start teaching till August and I have no idea when I can get some financial backing for it - but I know for a fact that I am going to get it set up and running as soon as possible.
Therefore, here are a few pics of the tank and something I made in Google Sketchup. Please, realize that I have only had the program and toyed around with it for the last two days and no more.
Breakdown:
110g show tank
Custom 20g sump
Bean-Animal overflow
10g refugium with 4" deep sand bed, live rock rubble and chaetomorpha algae
Octopus cone skimmer (not decided which one yet)
Instant Ocean salt
Used Calcium Reactor
Water container for extra water volume and used for water changes.
Mag 9 return pump
UAS (Underwater/Upflow Algae Scrubber on the side of the refugium
2x200w heaters - titanium
Profilux 2 controller
Either a DIY LED fixture or just wait to buy a couple of those chinese led fixtures.
Auto Top Off unit - also has float valve on the RO Reservoir to continuously top it off. No more worrying about putting water in the tank.
2 Vortech MP40s
2" sand bed with course sand (Keeps it from blowing around with those vortechs)
Stand:
Peninsula style stand
Door open light
5 fans on Temp controller
Floating wooden top
Sealed bottom
36" tall
Side cabinet is 7'6" tall.
Electrical panel on switches to easily turn off components that are not connected to the Profilux 2 controller.
Polyurethaned ******** and exterior.
Stocklist:
Suggestions?
I'm thinking about this:
Mimic tang
Yellow tang
bi color blennie
yellow and black chromis (schooling)
Oscellaris pair
mandarin dragonet
Wrasse of some sort
Yup - that's pretty much it. Or - if I can save a little money I might be able to buy some of the cool fish on Divers Den.
Corals:
Lots of SPS at the top of the tank
LPS like hammers, frogspawn and acans in the middle
Zoas, green star polyps, tube anemone, colt/kenya/nepthea, orange sun coral at bottom level.
Yeah, kind of a mixed tank. I know how some people say don't mix SPS with other types of corals, but I have done this successfully with a lot of carbon. lol
Inverts:
Peppermint shrimp 2-3
Cleaner shrimp pair
cucumber
conch
cleaner clams
nassarious snails
zebra snails
nerite snails
turbo snails
I'd ditch the Yellow and swap another tang in it's place.....Just my .02
Quote:
Originally Posted by SnakeBlitz33 http:///t/392103/snakes-official-110g-build-thread#post_3479995
If you notice, I already put in the beananimal overflow in the background, but I am going to tweak it some. On both ends, I'm going to come in with it a little bit so that I can fit a couple of return pipes. OR, I could spend the extra money and buy a couple of sea swirls. I don't know if they are worth the money. Anyone?
Keep in mind, I've only been playing with google Sketchup for two days - so go lightly on me.
Thoughts or comments on the stand?
Looks very good......I'd paint the side wall with the overflow on black and use black acrylic for my overflow box.....Shouldn't stand out much or detract from the appearance. 1 1/2" bulkheads sched 80 style.....
an>Quote:
Originally Posted by SnakeBlitz33 http:///t/392103/snakes-official-110g-build-thread#post_3480007
Yeah, like I said in the beginning - it's going to be a long road and a slow build. Probably not as long as 2Quills though. lol I figure I might have to build the stand in place, or build it in two pieces - the canopy and top cabinet for one and then the lower cabinet. That way I don't have to cut the stand to get it out of the next apartment we move into before we get a house.
I'd definitely build in several pieces.....Makes everything a lot easier, but at times can really complicate things, but would be easier to move and modify things if needed.
Quote:
Originally Posted by SnakeBlitz33 http:///t/392103/snakes-official-110g-build-thread#post_3480162
Then again, i could build the stand 24" wide and make room for a ten gallon tank that is baffled and contains calcium, alkalinity and magnesium and use my profilux 2 controller for automatic dosing using the balling method. On one end have a 10g tank for the dosing and on the other have a water reservoir for an auto top off unit.
Soo many possibilities at this point. Ill have plenty of time to think about it. Thoughts? Comments? Suggestions?
I'd opt for a wider stand as you guys are thinking.......You can easily stuff a 55 under the 110, and probably could stick pretty close to your original dimensions with a little creativity in the design of the top of the stand. And in all honesty if you would use torsion panels in conjunction with pocket holes it should be plenty strong enough that you could eliminate any need for a center brace. All comes down to how you want to build the stand, but a center support definitely isn't needed.
Quote:
Originally Posted by SnakeBlitz33 http:///t/392103/snakes-official-110g-build-thread#post_3480172
The sump will have mechanical filtration on one side, the return in the middle and a nice sized fuge area on the other end. Im going to use a small powerheAd to pump water to the fuge. The return plumbing will be ran up the cabinet side and will be split three ways. First split is the water change container which will add an extra 25g to the system. The second and third split will put two returns into the tank.
I remember you mentioned about shortening your overflow box to accommodate your returns or Vortech placement......Very good idea IMO. Actually if your doing the drilling, why not make the tank as sleek and clean as possible and drill your returns in that panel and use loc line to direct your flow.....I'm rather anal with attention to detail at times, and seeing pipes up and over or white PVC inside the DT automatically draws my attention away from the inhabitants for whatever reason.....It's attention to little details that sets tanks apart again IMO.....
