Squidd I'm Almost Ready To Move To The Basement!!

squidd

squidd

Active Member
If closing the valve and slowing total flow thru sump fuge helped in a dramatic way, then yes, let's switch out the pumps...
Drop to an 18 on sump return...(about 700gph to tank) and then use the 24 as a closed loop pump..
Narrow high pressure or wider high volume flow is a choice you will have to make...
I prefer the larger diameter pipe and higher overall flow rate (move mass quantities of water across the tank) to the narrow high pressure jet stream outlets( faster water, but narrow flow band...)
Depending on where you locate the C/L pump and how large a line and outlets you use...should see 2000 to 2200 from C/L...Giving 2800 or so total gph turnover thru tank...25 X...
 
lubeck

lubeck

Active Member
I believe it did come close to eliminating the bubbles all together. Of course, I have nirtrous bubbles coming up from the sand and lr but that is a different problem.
Just so we are clear, I did reduce both the drain lines. Both less than half.
What if i use 1" pvc for closed loop but use 3/4" return nozzles? Just becuase I already ordered them and they will be here by thursday.
 
squidd

squidd

Active Member
Just so we are clear, I did reduce both the drain lines. Both less than half.
You closed the "drain" lines or shut the pump down...or both...?
Because if you just shut the drain lines down...that confirms a theory I was contemplating...in that the long "vertical" drop you have (as pictured in your "before" shots) in creating a suction effect speeding up flow over the standard pipe diameter flow rates...closing the valves allows an equalization of pressure (not quite back pressure , but reducing suction effect) and allowing water to flow at more normal rate (less bubbles)
Now if you had to slow the pump down as well to match the closed drain lines, then the Mag 18 is a good choice...but if your still pumping full amount from Mag 24...then going to 18 will just reduce available flow to tank and drain valves will need to remain cut back to equalize flow...
Following here...?
In which case if Mag 24 is still running open...we could duplicate the equalization effect with surge loops in the drain lines and maintain optimal sump/fuge flow rates...:thinking:
 
lubeck

lubeck

Active Member
Both. I reduced the drain lines and the return line. So......... what should I do? I still need the mag18 right? I will show pictures later
 
lubeck

lubeck

Active Member
Well, tomorrow the mag18,ATO,and spray nozzles will be here. I am going to set up teh closed loop tomorrow afternoon so if your near a computer that would be great. Just kiding.
Do you have any advice for the closed loop?
Should I use 1" or 1-1/4" pvc? I will be using 3/4" spray nozzles for sure, just becuase they are coming tomorrow, and I did not see 1" spray nozzles online.
I really don't know where or how to set up the ATO and will wait for your diagrams after i finish the closed loop.
 
lubeck

lubeck

Active Member
Squidd,
I am starting to get nervous about bringing the mag24 upstairs under my stand. I KNOW ITS GOING TO BE LOUD.
I was already thinking of ways to muffle the noise, lining carpet inside the tank. Setting the pump on some foam/towels/carpet/ what ever else i can think of.
Do you have any suggestions? Should I leave it down stairs?(more holes)
 
squidd

squidd

Active Member
Well, I'm not a fan of running Mags external, they tend to be loud, but then most any pump that can do 2400 gph is going to be louder than you want in your living room...
So yes...drill the holes and put 'er in the basement... can sit a little higher than the sump (chest level Eye level on a shelf over the sump maybe??)
I'd stick with the 1 1/4" and "T" off in the tank if you "insist" on using the Lock lines...

Need to add shut off valves and quick disconnects for the occasional service..
 
lubeck

lubeck

Active Member
How many shut off valves and disconnects and where?
I am not going to have any bubble problems from the closed loop?(eeeeeekkkkkk)
 
squidd

squidd

Active Member
Only has to go in a couple inchs, but could go deeper...
The more water you get to the pump (1 1/4" ) the more it can pump back..
Will it look funny...? Hell yes...you should drill the back of the tank in 5 places for inlet and 4 outlets so you don't see the plumbing...

Valves and couplers will go in basement near pump to quick disconect for maintainence...

 
lubeck

lubeck

Active Member
I assembled alot of the CL tonight. I was having some difficulty with the intake pipe. I was drilling 1/8 size holes all throughout it (only did like four and stopped) becuase it was really rigid, not clean cut holes and was worried that would create BUBBLES. I would just shoot myself if I spent another 8 hours of my life and who knows how much money just to end up with bubbles. So.... what are my other options? I saw on the pic above it has a foam filter. Ironically, I just got one for the mag18, did put it on because there is no room and I thought that would just be a nitrate collector. So should I use the sponge and just clean it on a weekly basis? Or, should I continue making holes? I have most of the pieces and and parts cleaned, cut, glued, assembled. I forgot to get a extra T for the return line, after that its just piecing a couple of things together. Friday night the closed loop should be up and running and the system will be close to completion. Need to get the ATO installed, I just got it today so I am ready when ever you are. I have 8 days starting today(friday) to get that ATO set and stabilized and all the tweaking done for when I leave for vacation.(leave on april 29)
On another note, the mag18 is soooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo much quiet(er). It seems to be doing the job I am not sure what the flow is but I have the return line completely open. I do however have the 1" drain line closed slightly to compensate for the 3/4" fuge line. I still have some tweaking to do with the durso and I should be good to go.
I don't want to start another "fire" but I hope there is enough flow going through the sump/fuge. Meaning, I hope the fuge/sump is doing its job, a excellent one at that, in cleaning my Display tank. Do you think so?
My theroy is; if the water flow is somewhat on the "slow" side, it will give the skimmer and the fuge more time to do its job before heading back up to the DT, right?
Anyway, I will be extremely happy when this is over, I still need to beef up my cleaning crew for the fuge(i took 3 snails and one zebra hermit from my DT). I also hope that the new piece of lr and my red starry hermit crabs are the cause of my continous cycling problem I have every few weeks.(not the lr, the starry hermits; i will be taking them to my lfs tomorrow). You don't think my low readings of nitrate from my ro/di (0.2) would cuase algae breakout right? I tested my regular water from the tap and it read 15 for nitrates, so it is not getting it all out but 99%.
Sorry for the rambling, its 1am here and I am getting sleeeeeeeeeeeeeeeepy. Goodnight!
 
lubeck

lubeck

Active Member
Closed Loop is complete! Still have alot of fine tuning. I decided to keep the pump under the stand. I am very suprised on how slow the current is coming out. I am glad i i did put it under the stand for that matter. Still need to work on quieting down the pump.. Overall, I thought it would have been alot louder. I ended up using 1" pvc, I know you don't like it but I had alot of the pieces parts and as it turns out the flow would have been extremely slow, kinda like my return from the sump/fuge. seeing that it is such a large diameter, there is not enough pressure to be effective, IMO. I used 4 spray nozzles, the fourth being the one I had on the original is leaking from the loc-line not the threaded part. I am going to remove the nozzle all together and cap it off, this might help my flow (presure) increase in the DT. Any help with the ATO would be great. i will get pics of everything soon. What kind of hard ware do I need for the C/L?
 
squidd

squidd

Active Member
there is not enough pressure to be effective, IMO
Guess that depends on the "effect" your loking for...
Do you want to "feel" the water move and "see" it blow corals and fish around in a limited area..?? Or would you rather have it move "mass quantities" of water throughout the tank, bringing oxygen and removing waste from dead zones...

 
squidd

squidd

Active Member
Far as ATO goes... you should have instructions with shut off kit and valve to install that correctly, and the pic for the pressure tank shows placing the tank in line with a simple "T" ...Tank can be placed anywhere between RO and Valve...I just placed mine near the RO because I had a shelf there...
The rest of the line and additional valves run thru your house from RO to tank...
What part do you need additional help with...?
 
squidd

squidd

Active Member
Originally Posted by Lubeck
Where should I put the float valve at, in which chamber?
Where can I get a pressure tank???
Float valve in return pump chamber ...set as high as needed to maintain water level just below last baffle (1/2" remember)
Tank from hardware store..same place as adapters and additional tubing to get from RO to tank...
 
lubeck

lubeck

Active Member
Where exactly am I putting the ATO? The float valve is going to be in the same chamber as the return pump? I ask this just because the return pump water level will change if I have carbon in the chamber before it. Also, because using the mag18 it does not seem to be pulling as much water, in turn, the water level of the return chamber is much higher.
What type of drill bit did you use to drill the 5/8 hole?
What should I use to put on the 1" intake pvc pipe for the C/L? The large sponge I have, I don't like it.
Here are some pics, let me know if you see anything funny.
Also, NONE of my corals have opened since I changed to the new fuge/sump. My anemone has gone from 18" in diameter to 8". My livestock seems very stressed. I did a check on the water . alk-3.3/ cal-400 / mag.1200. all of those readings have dropped compared to "before" fuge/sump.
nitrate-0.2
trite-0.01
amonia - 0
What is interesting is I have had MANY readings like these and all my corals and fish have looked fine, but not when it has these mini cycles.
I wish I could show you pics of the tank during the day. About half way through the afternoon. bubbles start to accumulate by the thousands on all of my lr and DSB. then slowly will float to the top of the surface. there is brownish algae on the rock as well as the sand bed. I am extremly upset after all of this work. What is interesting is, I don't know when it started exactly but... These symptoms have accured NUMEROUS TIMES. I don't know if it was after I got the red starry hermit crabs or what. I do know they clean the bed very well, BUT NOT WHEN THE "SYMTOMS" are occuring, like in the last week. Again, I have seen the hermits dig more than 2" at times and think this is what is creating the "cycle", at least I hope so or I have no idea what is. I am going to get rid of them before I leave for vacation. all i know is it is VERY discouraging and frustrating and makes me say bad things. Also, I don't know if I have said this already but, there is gray streaks or large patches in my DSB, what is it? its not on the top but in the middle and bottom part. It seems to happen every time the top layer of sand gets covered up. Any suggestions would be appreciated




 
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