Squidd.......Teach me.....DYI:Plumbing 101 on a SW Tank

squidd

squidd

Active Member
The air valve with a "fine thread" for ease of adjustment...
They do need an occasional "tweak" because pumps do NOT run consistant flow all the time (CaCo3 buildup, scum, barometric pressure, etc...)
It's "minor" but a lot easier to twist a valve than drill or "patch" a hole...
 
leona

leona

Member
Ok, What in God's creation are you guys doing? J/K.........
What I want is a tank that is very functional. I don't want to worry about what I should of done and if you would of went this way then the tank would be better. Now, I'm sure for that kinda of set up it would take alot of money. I am working on a budget. (I'm still not quite sure what my budget is but I will talk to hubby..........:happy: ).
As far as this talk that you two are doing..............I DON"T UNDERSTAND ANY of it. Give me option the pro's and con's with those options. Even if that means to redesign of the tank and layout. It needs to be able to work with the 75g tank for sump/fuge. If I can get you two to join forces I will have an amazing tank. I will have you two to thank. I have NO idea what to ask tom about. Tell me what to ask him and I will call and ask him. If changes the OF's to another location would be better then tell me. Looks aren't always that important if it's doing the job that it is there for. So Now with that said.
Now were are we?
One note from what I have talked to tom his plans DO need to be layed in in the most detailed as possiable.
I also attaching an email from tom. The Bulkheads are 15.00 for anything under 2". 20.00 for 2".
Per Tom"
120 aquarium $230.00
2 overflows $40.00
9 holes $180.00
Sch 80 bulkheads 1 1/2 need a 2 3/4 hole 1" need a 2" hole.
I would do the euro bracing different around the overflows for better access to the overflows, and to cut cost I would try to eliminate some of the holes in the eurobracing.
Phone calls will work much better than E-amils as you get further along.
We also need to try and keep the cost of the tank down as much as possable. BUT I don't want to compromise on the tank. I DO like the idea of the O/M. Later on I will add it. But make it part of the plans.
What EVER I CAN DO to HELP.......................PLEASE tell me.
Leona
 
leona

leona

Member
Are the Overflows made of GLASS or something else?
What about a long overflow reaching end to end of the tank? Michael thought of this one.
Leona
 
acrylic51

acrylic51

Active Member
Yeah sorry Leona about rambling on... The overflows are made of glass.... As an additional add on $$$$$ you can get Tom to make acrylic covers that would cover your overflows.... So basically the overflows would appear to look like the ones you see in an Oceanic or AGA tank. I didn't have him do the covers, because they are $20.00 per cover, and for that price. I can get enough material at that price to make several covers..... I was also told (haven't seen with my own eyes) that his covers aren't the neatest.... I was informed the teeth on the covers aren't uniform, and basically the person who stated this was under the impression it was going to look again like the old style overflow teeth.....
If you want the covers or teeth there are several options or ways around that, but definitely not worth the cash or the headaches of thinking about it at the present......
 
squidd

squidd

Active Member
O.K.
One of the biggest "obsticals" we are running into is the Eurobracing on the tank...
It's in the way of the overflows, and will require 3 additional holes to get the C/L and Return in..
Have you seen his "plastic" bracing/trim packages he has....
They would "open up" access to the overflows and eliminate the cost of 3 "holes" and still allow "optimal placement " of overflows
At this point we could do 1 "larger corner" to get 1200 gph rather than 2..eliminate "another hole and bulkhead" cost ...
Althouth it would probably require a center brace for tank strength....(narrow)
As this is a 48" tank...and you will be using Two MHs over it..this is not a bad option and offers a significant savings...
Is there an "additional cost" for the plastic trim/bracing...?
Then subtract 1 overflow 4 "holes" and 1 bulkhead from the price...
Schedual 80 bulkheads are "nice" ....:rolleyes: but "overkill" IMO if you are watching pennies...I run standard (schd 40 ) bulkheads at sizes listed and have had NO problems...
They wil also require "smaller holes" (under 2" for most" ) and will save you money there... Also the cost of these bulkheads is $7.00 and $10.00 respectvely...
Once we (you/I/acrylic51) come up with a "plan" you can live with, we can do the "detailed" drawings...
At this point it would be a waste of time...as we are still in the "pencil sketch" stage....
(I "told you" it would be page 11 before you got your "drawings"...
)
Overflows are made of glass..and running across the back would be a waste of "tank" space...
 
leona

leona

Member
Originally posted by Squidd
It's in the way of the overflows, and will require 3 additional holes to get the C/L and Return in.. He did say he would cut the euro bracing around the OF's.
Have you seen his "plastic" bracing/trim packages he has....No I have not
They would "open up" access to the overflows and eliminate the cost of 3 "holes" and still allow "optimal placement " of overflows
At this point we could do 1 "larger corner" to get 1200 gph rather than 2..eliminate "another hole and bulkhead" cost ...
Althouth it would probably require a center brace for tank strength....(narrow) If we go with one middle OF would I still need a center brace?
As this is a 48" tank...and you will be using Two MHs over it..this is not a bad option and offers a significant savings...
Is there an "additional cost" for the plastic trim/bracing...? I don't know
Then subtract 1 overflow 4 "holes" and 1 bulkhead from the price...
Schedual 80 bulkheads are "nice" ....:rolleyes: but "overkill" IMO if you are watching pennies...I run standard (schd 40 ) bulkheads at sizes listed and have had NO problems...
They wil also require "smaller holes" (under 2" for most" ) and will save you money there... Also the cost of these bulkheads is $7.00 and $10.00 respectvely...The holes have to drilled so I can wait to figure out if I will use the 40 or 80bulkhead until the end
Once we (you/I/acrylic51) come up with a "plan" you can live with, we can do the "detailed" drawings...
At this point it would be a waste of time...as we are still in the "pencil sketch" stage....
(I "told you" it would be page 11 before you got your "drawings"...
) Yes you did.......... :yes:
 
leona

leona

Member

Originally posted by Squidd
For $20 for one glass overflow "installed"...might as well have him do it...
The overflow cover?
 
squidd

squidd

Active Member
Althouth it would probably require a center brace for tank strength....(narrow) If we go with one middle OF would I still need a center brace?
There is a "choice" here...
A. Plastic trim/bracing with center brace...could do corner or center overflow plenty of "access room", again your choice...
B. Euro Bracing...corner or center overflow... cut out for access...NO center brace...but "additional" 3 holes (all under 2" and no bulkheads) for C/L and return pipe...
 
squidd

squidd

Active Member
What is the "thickness" of the Tank walls...??
With this info I can tell if you even "need" a center brace with or without Euro Bracing or plastic trim...
 
acrylic51

acrylic51

Active Member

Originally posted by Squidd
O.K.
One of the biggest "obsticals" we are running into is the Eurobracing on the tank...
It's in the way of the overflows, and will require 3 additional holes to get the C/L and Return in..
Have you seen his "plastic" bracing/trim packages he has....
They would "open up" access to the overflows and eliminate the cost of 3 "holes" and still allow "optimal placement " of overflows
At this point we could do 1 "larger corner" to get 1200 gph rather than 2..eliminate "another hole and bulkhead" cost ...
Althouth it would probably require a center brace for tank strength....(narrow)
As this is a 48" tank...and you will be using Two MHs over it..this is not a bad option and offers a significant savings...
Is there an "additional cost" for the plastic trim/bracing...?
Then subtract 1 overflow 4 "holes" and 1 bulkhead from the price...
Schedual 80 bulkheads are "nice" ....:rolleyes: but "overkill" IMO if you are watching pennies...I run standard (schd 40 ) bulkheads at sizes listed and have had NO problems...
They wil also require "smaller holes" (under 2" for most" ) and will save you money there... Also the cost of these bulkheads is $7.00 and $10.00 respectvely...
Once we (you/I/acrylic51) come up with a "plan" you can live with, we can do the "detailed" drawings...
At this point it would be a waste of time...as we are still in the "pencil sketch" stage....
(I "told you" it would be page 11 before you got your "drawings"...
)
Overflows are made of glass..and running across the back would be a waste of "tank" space...
Sorry for working this way Squidd, but easier to keep track as to what your asking me.....
Yes I have seen his plastic trim both on euro braced tanks and on tanks without euro bracing.... Even if your tank is done with euro bracing it still has the black plastic trim on top and bottom but doesn't have the center supports. It's used just as a "decorative" item and to cover the edges of the glass as well... His black trim on tanks that don't have euro bracing is going to be identical to as if you walked into your LFS and bought a regular built tank off the floor. It will have the cross bracing and you can get it done where it will accept glass covers as well, but I know she doesn't want the glass covers.... An option might be to forgo the euro bracing and just as you had mentioned go with the traditional bracing of the tank due to the 4' lenght mounting lights wouldn't be a hassle or problem either way.... I think the euro just has a different look to it that's all....
I'm a little confused on why it would free up 3 holes in the euro bracing???? If each overflow is going to be drilled for 2 holes each why do you need a hole in the euro bracing in the back for water return???? Maybe I fell asleep on something here!!!!!!The water returns could be run up through the bottom of the overflows and returned from the overflows by loc line or other device if desired????!!!!:notsure: Sorry about that Squidd I finally realized where that hole up top is coming into play at told you I fall asleep from time to time!!!!!
No there is no additional cost for just going with the regular trim or bracing.....
Squidd I agree with you on the 1 overflow might be a better way, but confused when you say subtract 1 overflow 4 holes and 1 bulkhead???? Each overflow has 2 holes and would need to bulkheads to begin with. If you saying now without using euro bracing just have 1 hole drilled in the overflow and return water over the top then I understand where your coming from....???.... My theory on that would be subtract 1 overflow, 2 holes and 2 bulkheads??????
Again Tom has and qoutes what he feels is best for his tanks.... And when you start or try to tell Tom his side of the business he doesn't like that very well.... He has been building tanks for nearly 20 years and he has insurance requirements he has to meet as well and again he WILL state sched 80 bulkheads for his tanks.... He will do what you say "if you say drill sched 40" he will, but again he knows what should be done and what shouldn't. That's why he's building the tank!!!!!!!:joy: I wouldn't SKIMP at all. I'm sorry I disagree there, but at this stage I would go with what he recommends as far as fittings to use on his product!!!!!! Are you saying the cost of sched 80 bulkheads are $7 -$10 bucks!!!!! where you pricing these from??? If you referring to sched 40 those prices are high and can get alot better prices than that from Custom.....
I'm going to see if my favorite daughter will lend stupid me a hand and get something drawn up to explain what I'm trying to throw out here so we can sit and beat it to death!!!!!! That means you Leona as well... I know Squidd will kick it with me!!!!!! Let's wind it up!!!!!
 
acrylic51

acrylic51

Active Member

Originally posted by Squidd
What is the "thickness" of the Tank walls...??
With this info I can tell if you even "need" a center brace with or without Euro Bracing or plastic trim...
1/2" wall thickness I'm positive, do think would need a center brace, but with wider euro could do without it......
 
squidd

squidd

Active Member

Originally posted by Leona
The overflow cover?
You don't "need" the overflow cover..or the "teeth" cut in glass...
Rocks and coraline will "cover" the overflow, and for a couple bucks I can show you a way to "Strain water" and keep fish out of the overflow...
 
acrylic51

acrylic51

Active Member

Originally posted by acrylic51
Sorry for working this way Squidd, but easier to keep track as to what your asking me.....
Yes I have seen his plastic trim both on euro braced tanks and on tanks without euro bracing.... Even if your tank is done with euro bracing it still has the black plastic trim on top and bottom but doesn't have the center supports. It's used just as a "decorative" item and to cover the edges of the glass as well... His black trim on tanks that don't have euro bracing is going to be identical to as if you walked into your LFS and bought a regular built tank off the floor. It will have the cross bracing and you can get it done where it will accept glass covers as well, but I know she doesn't want the glass covers.... An option might be to forgo the euro bracing and just as you had mentioned go with the traditional bracing of the tank due to the 4' lenght mounting lights wouldn't be a hassle or problem either way.... I think the euro just has a different look to it that's all....
I'm a little confused on why it would free up 3 holes in the euro bracing???? If each overflow is going to be drilled for 2 holes each why do you need a hole in the euro bracing in the back for water return???? Maybe I fell asleep on something here!!!!!!The water returns could be run up through the bottom of the overflows and returned from the overflows by loc line or other device if desired????!!!!:notsure: Sorry about that Squidd I finally realized where that hole up top is coming into play at told you I fall asleep from time to time!!!!!
No there is no additional cost for just going with the regular trim or bracing.....
Squidd I agree with you on the 1 overflow might be a better way, but confused when you say subtract 1 overflow 4 holes and 1 bulkhead???? Each overflow has 2 holes and would need to bulkheads to begin with. If you saying now without using euro bracing just have 1 hole drilled in the overflow and return water over the top then I understand where your coming from....???.... My theory on that would be subtract 1 overflow, 2 holes and 2 bulkheads??????
Again Tom has and qoutes what he feels is best for his tanks.... And when you start or try to tell Tom his side of the business he doesn't like that very well.... He has been building tanks for nearly 20 years and he has insurance requirements he has to meet as well and again he WILL state sched 80 bulkheads for his tanks.... He will do what you say "if you say drill sched 40" he will, but again he knows what should be done and what shouldn't. That's why he's building the tank!!!!!!!:joy: I wouldn't SKIMP at all. I'm sorry I disagree there, but at this stage I would go with what he recommends as far as fittings to use on his product!!!!!! Are you saying the cost of sched 80 bulkheads are $7 -$10 bucks!!!!! where you pricing these from??? If you referring to sched 40 those prices are high and can get alot better prices than that from Custom.....
I'm going to see if my favorite daughter will lend stupid me a hand and get something drawn up to explain what I'm trying to throw out here so we can sit and beat it to death!!!!!! That means you Leona as well... I know Squidd will kick it with me!!!!!! Let's wind it up!!!!!
 
leona

leona

Member

Originally posted by Squidd
You don't "need" the overflow cover..or the "teeth" cut in glass...
Rocks and coraline will "cover" the overflow, and for a couple bucks I can show you a way to "Strain water" and keep fish out of the overflow...
Sounds good.............I won't have a cover made.
 
squidd

squidd

Active Member
If you saying now without using euro bracing just have 1 hole drilled in the overflow and return water over the top then I understand where your coming from....???.
:yes:
 
leona

leona

Member

Originally posted by Squidd
There is a "choice" here...
A. Plastic trim/bracing with center brace...could do corner or center overflow plenty of "access room", again your choice...
B. Euro Bracing...corner or center overflow... cut out for access...NO center brace...but "additional" 3 holes (all under 2" and no bulkheads) for C/L and return pipe...
What are the pro's and con's of these two plans.
Why do people get the eurobracing? To drill holes if needed for c/l?
I can't make a decision on the two until I understand the two. I'm headed out for a few hours..........
Later
Leona
 
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