Started a 56G FOWLR tank and could use some help with picking fish
- Thread starter kenman345
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kenman345
Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by trigger40 http:///t/397624/started-a-56g-fowlr-tank-and-could-use-some-help-with-picking-fish/120#post_3546491
the only thing i can see is on the fourth picture. it dosent look like ich on the fourth picture, probaly something else
What else could it be? Maybe the clownfish hurting each other? I have them in a Quarantine tank for the very purpose of catching and treating anything the fish might have before adding them to hte display tank. I just am being cautious here and asking instead of trying to treat first without being certain. I would really hate to hurt the fish or put them through more stress for no reason.
Originally Posted by trigger40 http:///t/397624/started-a-56g-fowlr-tank-and-could-use-some-help-with-picking-fish/120#post_3546491
the only thing i can see is on the fourth picture. it dosent look like ich on the fourth picture, probaly something else
What else could it be? Maybe the clownfish hurting each other? I have them in a Quarantine tank for the very purpose of catching and treating anything the fish might have before adding them to hte display tank. I just am being cautious here and asking instead of trying to treat first without being certain. I would really hate to hurt the fish or put them through more stress for no reason.
trigger40
Well-Known Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kenman345 http:///t/397624/started-a-56g-fowlr-tank-and-could-use-some-help-with-picking-fish/120#post_3546492
What else could it be? Maybe the clownfish hurting each other? I have them in a Quarantine tank for the very purpose of catching and treating anything the fish might have before adding them to hte display tank. I just am being cautious here and asking instead of trying to treat first without being certain. I would really hate to hurt the fish or put them through more stress for no reason.
well after i enlarged the picture i can see white specs on his fin surrounded by the blur on his fins. at the regulr sized pic i saw what appered to be lymphocystis wich is a common virus but when i looked closer i saw what i described earlyr. and in the first pic you posted one of the clowns had blurd fins. this is an early sign of ich and that is when action should be taken but most of the time its not. and sence clowns have gotten infected and they have a good defence agenst the parasite this tells me you have a large poulation of ich. at this point ther are only 2 solutions. a copper treatment or hyposalinaty. both of thes treat ments require percision when treating. i recomend copper sence they are in your qt. its much faster and kills every thing bad while you are doing it. copper also takes half the time that hypo does and hypo requiers buying a very expencive piece of equipment to measure salinity to percision 14 ppt and 1.009 gravity. hypo takes one month while copper takes 2 weeks and all you haft to do is keep the copper level at 1 ppt for 2 weeks and then run carbon in your filter for 3 days. i also understand your concern for keeping the fish happy and i am with you 100% on that one. but sence i can be ther to identify properly it would be safe to let it develope a little more and who knows all it could take is a good diet and pristien water. i just got through a 2 month battle with ich so i have learnd a few things myself. i wish you luck.
Originally Posted by Kenman345 http:///t/397624/started-a-56g-fowlr-tank-and-could-use-some-help-with-picking-fish/120#post_3546492
What else could it be? Maybe the clownfish hurting each other? I have them in a Quarantine tank for the very purpose of catching and treating anything the fish might have before adding them to hte display tank. I just am being cautious here and asking instead of trying to treat first without being certain. I would really hate to hurt the fish or put them through more stress for no reason.
well after i enlarged the picture i can see white specs on his fin surrounded by the blur on his fins. at the regulr sized pic i saw what appered to be lymphocystis wich is a common virus but when i looked closer i saw what i described earlyr. and in the first pic you posted one of the clowns had blurd fins. this is an early sign of ich and that is when action should be taken but most of the time its not. and sence clowns have gotten infected and they have a good defence agenst the parasite this tells me you have a large poulation of ich. at this point ther are only 2 solutions. a copper treatment or hyposalinaty. both of thes treat ments require percision when treating. i recomend copper sence they are in your qt. its much faster and kills every thing bad while you are doing it. copper also takes half the time that hypo does and hypo requiers buying a very expencive piece of equipment to measure salinity to percision 14 ppt and 1.009 gravity. hypo takes one month while copper takes 2 weeks and all you haft to do is keep the copper level at 1 ppt for 2 weeks and then run carbon in your filter for 3 days. i also understand your concern for keeping the fish happy and i am with you 100% on that one. but sence i can be ther to identify properly it would be safe to let it develope a little more and who knows all it could take is a good diet and pristien water. i just got through a 2 month battle with ich so i have learnd a few things myself. i wish you luck.
kenman345
Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by trigger40 http:///t/397624/started-a-56g-fowlr-tank-and-could-use-some-help-with-picking-fish/120#post_3546499
well after i enlarged the picture i can see white specs on his fin surrounded by the blur on his fins. at the regulr sized pic i saw what appered to be lymphocystis wich is a common virus but when i looked closer i saw what i described earlyr. and in the first pic you posted one of the clowns had blurd fins. this is an early sign of ich and that is when action should be taken but most of the time its not. and sence clowns have gotten infected and they have a good defence agenst the parasite this tells me you have a large poulation of ich. at this point ther are only 2 solutions. a copper treatment or hyposalinaty. both of thes treat ments require percision when treating. i recomend copper sence they are in your qt. its much faster and kills every thing bad while you are doing it. copper also takes half the time that hypo does and hypo requiers buying a very expencive piece of equipment to measure salinity to percision 14 ppt and 1.009 gravity. hypo takes one month while copper takes 2 weeks and all you haft to do is keep the copper level at 1 ppt for 2 weeks and then run carbon in your filter for 3 days. i also understand your concern for keeping the fish happy and i am with you 100% on that one. but sence i can be ther to identify properly it would be safe to let it develope a little more and who knows all it could take is a good diet and pristien water. i just got through a 2 month battle with ich so i have learnd a few things myself. i wish you luck.
So you think they may have ich is what you're saying? or rather, it appears one of them might.
It sounds like you are suggesting that I proceed cautiously and watch the clownfish carefully. I will take action in the next 24 hours if I believe this to be the case. I got the fish from the supplier LA....so, I was hoping to have a fairly good chance of healthy fish.
I will watch them, and see, if I do not see ich tomorrow afternoon, I will do a water change and scrub the inside of the tank as best I can in the middle of it to hopefully help their chances. If I still see ich tomorrow afternoon, I will have to start a treatment. I have Seachem cupramine and copper test kit, and I have a refractometer and Hydor ATO on the tank, but the hydor ATO only seems to kick in once every 2-3 days so I may need to supplement that by hand with either one of my treatment options.
Should I take out the Chaeto for any of the treatments besides the water change? It really would be most ideal if I were able to wait till the weekend to start the treatment as I can most accurately and properly perform the process. Would it be bad to start the copper treatment and not get it to the right level until 16 hours later when i can get back to slowly raising the copper levels? Would that slow of a change be okay?
EDIT:
I added a single drop of Kents Garlic Xtreme in hopes of helping whatever is going on with the fish. That is their recommended dosage for a 10G tank.
Wouldn't it make sense if one has it the other should as well? the one that I am worried about seems to be the one taking the most abuse from their fighting, and the other clownfish not only eats but basically zooms around to get as much food as it wants quickly and then will stop. I do believe I have some copepods in the water column though from the chaetomorpha, so hopefully the clownfish is at least feeding on some of those in the tank and maybe that is the reason behind the lack of appetite.
Originally Posted by trigger40 http:///t/397624/started-a-56g-fowlr-tank-and-could-use-some-help-with-picking-fish/120#post_3546499
well after i enlarged the picture i can see white specs on his fin surrounded by the blur on his fins. at the regulr sized pic i saw what appered to be lymphocystis wich is a common virus but when i looked closer i saw what i described earlyr. and in the first pic you posted one of the clowns had blurd fins. this is an early sign of ich and that is when action should be taken but most of the time its not. and sence clowns have gotten infected and they have a good defence agenst the parasite this tells me you have a large poulation of ich. at this point ther are only 2 solutions. a copper treatment or hyposalinaty. both of thes treat ments require percision when treating. i recomend copper sence they are in your qt. its much faster and kills every thing bad while you are doing it. copper also takes half the time that hypo does and hypo requiers buying a very expencive piece of equipment to measure salinity to percision 14 ppt and 1.009 gravity. hypo takes one month while copper takes 2 weeks and all you haft to do is keep the copper level at 1 ppt for 2 weeks and then run carbon in your filter for 3 days. i also understand your concern for keeping the fish happy and i am with you 100% on that one. but sence i can be ther to identify properly it would be safe to let it develope a little more and who knows all it could take is a good diet and pristien water. i just got through a 2 month battle with ich so i have learnd a few things myself. i wish you luck.
So you think they may have ich is what you're saying? or rather, it appears one of them might.
It sounds like you are suggesting that I proceed cautiously and watch the clownfish carefully. I will take action in the next 24 hours if I believe this to be the case. I got the fish from the supplier LA....so, I was hoping to have a fairly good chance of healthy fish.
I will watch them, and see, if I do not see ich tomorrow afternoon, I will do a water change and scrub the inside of the tank as best I can in the middle of it to hopefully help their chances. If I still see ich tomorrow afternoon, I will have to start a treatment. I have Seachem cupramine and copper test kit, and I have a refractometer and Hydor ATO on the tank, but the hydor ATO only seems to kick in once every 2-3 days so I may need to supplement that by hand with either one of my treatment options.
Should I take out the Chaeto for any of the treatments besides the water change? It really would be most ideal if I were able to wait till the weekend to start the treatment as I can most accurately and properly perform the process. Would it be bad to start the copper treatment and not get it to the right level until 16 hours later when i can get back to slowly raising the copper levels? Would that slow of a change be okay?
EDIT:
I added a single drop of Kents Garlic Xtreme in hopes of helping whatever is going on with the fish. That is their recommended dosage for a 10G tank.
Wouldn't it make sense if one has it the other should as well? the one that I am worried about seems to be the one taking the most abuse from their fighting, and the other clownfish not only eats but basically zooms around to get as much food as it wants quickly and then will stop. I do believe I have some copepods in the water column though from the chaetomorpha, so hopefully the clownfish is at least feeding on some of those in the tank and maybe that is the reason behind the lack of appetite.
kenman345
Member
Sorry for the double post, I wanted to make sure those that are paying attention see these pictures and lend their opinion. All help is appreciated.
I just took these and the other fish seems clear of anything but the two have been rubbing up against each other and fighting with each other all day.
I just took these and the other fish seems clear of anything but the two have been rubbing up against each other and fighting with each other all day.
trigger40
Well-Known Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kenman345 http:///t/397624/started-a-56g-fowlr-tank-and-could-use-some-help-with-picking-fish/120#post_3546501
So you think they may have ich is what you're saying? or rather, it appears one of them might.
It sounds like you are suggesting that I proceed cautiously and watch the clownfish carefully. I will take action in the next 24 hours if I believe this to be the case. I got the fish from the supplier LA....so, I was hoping to have a fairly good chance of healthy fish.
I will watch them, and see, if I do not see ich tomorrow afternoon, I will do a water change and scrub the inside of the tank as best I can in the middle of it to hopefully help their chances. If I still see ich tomorrow afternoon, I will have to start a treatment. I have Seachem cupramine and copper test kit, and I have a refractometer and Hydor ATO on the tank, but the hydor ATO only seems to kick in once every 2-3 days so I may need to supplement that by hand with either one of my treatment options.
Should I take out the Chaeto for any of the treatments besides the water change? It really would be most ideal if I were able to wait till the weekend to start the treatment as I can most accurately and properly perform the process. Would it be bad to start the copper treatment and not get it to the right level until 16 hours later when i can get back to slowly raising the copper levels? Would that slow of a change be okay?
EDIT:
I added a single drop of Kents Garlic Xtreme in hopes of helping whatever is going on with the fish. That is their recommended dosage for a 10G tank.
Wouldn't it make sense if one has it the other should as well? the one that I am worried about seems to be the one taking the most abuse from their fighting, and the other clownfish not only eats but basically zooms around to get as much food as it wants quickly and then will stop. I do believe I have some copepods in the water column though from the chaetomorpha, so hopefully the clownfish is at least feeding on some of those in the tank and maybe that is the reason behind the lack of appetite.
yes you will need to remove the chaeto and the pods will only cause an ammonia spike when they die and they will die during both of the treatments. i think you are taking the right steps as of right now but scrubing the tank will only make things worse, you will stress out the fish and make them motr ulnrabe and the eggs will just be sturd up and you can wate but that gives the ich that much longer to get to the fish and ich can get to a point wher its just untreatable. i think you should take steps like you just have unhealthy fish, im not saying that you do but to act like you do so the fish have a better chance agenst the parasite. copper will not do anything good unless it right at the desired spot. if its too much it kills your fish if its too little it does nothing. the good news is that it is farely ezey to maintaine the desired spot and you really only haft to test once a day so when you wake up the next morning befor work fallow the directions exactly as it says and add the right amount. test and thin if needed or add a little but if you fallow the directions correctly it will be right on the money
Originally Posted by Kenman345 http:///t/397624/started-a-56g-fowlr-tank-and-could-use-some-help-with-picking-fish/120#post_3546501
So you think they may have ich is what you're saying? or rather, it appears one of them might.
It sounds like you are suggesting that I proceed cautiously and watch the clownfish carefully. I will take action in the next 24 hours if I believe this to be the case. I got the fish from the supplier LA....so, I was hoping to have a fairly good chance of healthy fish.
I will watch them, and see, if I do not see ich tomorrow afternoon, I will do a water change and scrub the inside of the tank as best I can in the middle of it to hopefully help their chances. If I still see ich tomorrow afternoon, I will have to start a treatment. I have Seachem cupramine and copper test kit, and I have a refractometer and Hydor ATO on the tank, but the hydor ATO only seems to kick in once every 2-3 days so I may need to supplement that by hand with either one of my treatment options.
Should I take out the Chaeto for any of the treatments besides the water change? It really would be most ideal if I were able to wait till the weekend to start the treatment as I can most accurately and properly perform the process. Would it be bad to start the copper treatment and not get it to the right level until 16 hours later when i can get back to slowly raising the copper levels? Would that slow of a change be okay?
EDIT:
I added a single drop of Kents Garlic Xtreme in hopes of helping whatever is going on with the fish. That is their recommended dosage for a 10G tank.
Wouldn't it make sense if one has it the other should as well? the one that I am worried about seems to be the one taking the most abuse from their fighting, and the other clownfish not only eats but basically zooms around to get as much food as it wants quickly and then will stop. I do believe I have some copepods in the water column though from the chaetomorpha, so hopefully the clownfish is at least feeding on some of those in the tank and maybe that is the reason behind the lack of appetite.
yes you will need to remove the chaeto and the pods will only cause an ammonia spike when they die and they will die during both of the treatments. i think you are taking the right steps as of right now but scrubing the tank will only make things worse, you will stress out the fish and make them motr ulnrabe and the eggs will just be sturd up and you can wate but that gives the ich that much longer to get to the fish and ich can get to a point wher its just untreatable. i think you should take steps like you just have unhealthy fish, im not saying that you do but to act like you do so the fish have a better chance agenst the parasite. copper will not do anything good unless it right at the desired spot. if its too much it kills your fish if its too little it does nothing. the good news is that it is farely ezey to maintaine the desired spot and you really only haft to test once a day so when you wake up the next morning befor work fallow the directions exactly as it says and add the right amount. test and thin if needed or add a little but if you fallow the directions correctly it will be right on the money
kenman345
Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by trigger40 http:///t/397624/started-a-56g-fowlr-tank-and-could-use-some-help-with-picking-fish/120#post_3546504
yes you will need to remove the chaeto and the pods will only cause an ammonia spike when they die and they will die during both of the treatments. i think you are taking the right steps as of right now but scrubing the tank will only make things worse, you will stress out the fish and make them motr ulnrabe and the eggs will just be sturd up and you can wate but that gives the ich that much longer to get to the fish and ich can get to a point wher its just untreatable. i think you should take steps like you just have unhealthy fish, im not saying that you do but to act like you do so the fish have a better chance agenst the parasite. copper will not do anything good unless it right at the desired spot. if its too much it kills your fish if its too little it does nothing. the good news is that it is farely ezey to maintaine the desired spot and you really only haft to test once a day so when you wake up the next morning befor work fallow the directions exactly as it says and add the right amount. test and thin if needed or add a little but if you fallow the directions correctly it will be right on the money
Well, unfortunately it's quite late already here so I really do not have the ability to do anything today. I will keep an eye out and start tomorrow after work if that's whats needed. I dont see a clear answer to my question about taking a longer period of time to et the copper level to the right amount. I know you're supposed to do it over a 48 hour period of time but I cannot be attentive for 48 hours straight, so my best is just doing it in my spare time after work. Will this still be okay to do? I understand if it's not effective till the levels are right
Originally Posted by trigger40 http:///t/397624/started-a-56g-fowlr-tank-and-could-use-some-help-with-picking-fish/120#post_3546504
yes you will need to remove the chaeto and the pods will only cause an ammonia spike when they die and they will die during both of the treatments. i think you are taking the right steps as of right now but scrubing the tank will only make things worse, you will stress out the fish and make them motr ulnrabe and the eggs will just be sturd up and you can wate but that gives the ich that much longer to get to the fish and ich can get to a point wher its just untreatable. i think you should take steps like you just have unhealthy fish, im not saying that you do but to act like you do so the fish have a better chance agenst the parasite. copper will not do anything good unless it right at the desired spot. if its too much it kills your fish if its too little it does nothing. the good news is that it is farely ezey to maintaine the desired spot and you really only haft to test once a day so when you wake up the next morning befor work fallow the directions exactly as it says and add the right amount. test and thin if needed or add a little but if you fallow the directions correctly it will be right on the money
Well, unfortunately it's quite late already here so I really do not have the ability to do anything today. I will keep an eye out and start tomorrow after work if that's whats needed. I dont see a clear answer to my question about taking a longer period of time to et the copper level to the right amount. I know you're supposed to do it over a 48 hour period of time but I cannot be attentive for 48 hours straight, so my best is just doing it in my spare time after work. Will this still be okay to do? I understand if it's not effective till the levels are right
trigger40
Well-Known Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kenman345 http:///t/397624/started-a-56g-fowlr-tank-and-could-use-some-help-with-picking-fish/120#post_3546505
I dont see a clear answer to my question about taking a longer period of time to et the copper level to the right amount. I know you're supposed to do it over a 48 hour period of time but I cannot be attentive for 48 hours straight, so my best is just doing it in my spare time after work. Will this still be okay to do? I understand if it's not effective till the levels are right
wher did you hear that you need to do it over a period of over 48 hours ive gone from 0 to 1ppt in an instant with the most copper sensative fish and they did fine. if this is what your directions say you can follow it as rasing it slowly is probaly part of the treatment.
Originally Posted by Kenman345 http:///t/397624/started-a-56g-fowlr-tank-and-could-use-some-help-with-picking-fish/120#post_3546505
I dont see a clear answer to my question about taking a longer period of time to et the copper level to the right amount. I know you're supposed to do it over a 48 hour period of time but I cannot be attentive for 48 hours straight, so my best is just doing it in my spare time after work. Will this still be okay to do? I understand if it's not effective till the levels are right
wher did you hear that you need to do it over a period of over 48 hours ive gone from 0 to 1ppt in an instant with the most copper sensative fish and they did fine. if this is what your directions say you can follow it as rasing it slowly is probaly part of the treatment.
kenman345
Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by trigger40 http:///t/397624/started-a-56g-fowlr-tank-and-could-use-some-help-with-picking-fish/120#post_3546506
wher did you hear that you need to do it over a period of over 48 hours ive gone from 0 to 1ppt in an instant with the most copper sensative fish and they did fine. if this is what your directions say you can follow it as rasing it slowly is probaly part of the treatment.
I mean, i may be mistaking it, but I would like to do a water change to get rid of the copepods and stuff, so its gonna have to wait till tomorrow. I will read up on everything in the meantime. I think the water change should also hopefully be somewhere around when the ich is free floating and should hopefully make it more likely treatment will work on these little guys.
Originally Posted by trigger40 http:///t/397624/started-a-56g-fowlr-tank-and-could-use-some-help-with-picking-fish/120#post_3546506
wher did you hear that you need to do it over a period of over 48 hours ive gone from 0 to 1ppt in an instant with the most copper sensative fish and they did fine. if this is what your directions say you can follow it as rasing it slowly is probaly part of the treatment.
I mean, i may be mistaking it, but I would like to do a water change to get rid of the copepods and stuff, so its gonna have to wait till tomorrow. I will read up on everything in the meantime. I think the water change should also hopefully be somewhere around when the ich is free floating and should hopefully make it more likely treatment will work on these little guys.
trigger40
Well-Known Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kenman345 http:///t/397624/started-a-56g-fowlr-tank-and-could-use-some-help-with-picking-fish/120#post_3546507
I mean, i may be mistaking it, but I would like to do a water change to get rid of the copepods and stuff, so its gonna have to wait till tomorrow. I will read up on everything in the meantime. I think the water change should also hopefully be somewhere around when the ich is free floating and should hopefully make it more likely treatment will work on these little guys.
oh yes that will be very helfull i thought you just ment litteraly scrub the tank.
Originally Posted by Kenman345 http:///t/397624/started-a-56g-fowlr-tank-and-could-use-some-help-with-picking-fish/120#post_3546507
I mean, i may be mistaking it, but I would like to do a water change to get rid of the copepods and stuff, so its gonna have to wait till tomorrow. I will read up on everything in the meantime. I think the water change should also hopefully be somewhere around when the ich is free floating and should hopefully make it more likely treatment will work on these little guys.
oh yes that will be very helfull i thought you just ment litteraly scrub the tank.
kenman345
Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by trigger40 http:///t/397624/started-a-56g-fowlr-tank-and-could-use-some-help-with-picking-fish/120#post_3546509
oh yes that will be very helfull i thought you just ment litteraly scrub the tank.
No, I did mean that, you deterred me away from that.
Originally Posted by trigger40 http:///t/397624/started-a-56g-fowlr-tank-and-could-use-some-help-with-picking-fish/120#post_3546509
oh yes that will be very helfull i thought you just ment litteraly scrub the tank.
No, I did mean that, you deterred me away from that.
trigger40
Well-Known Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kenman345 http:///t/397624/started-a-56g-fowlr-tank-and-could-use-some-help-with-picking-fish/120#post_3546511
No, I did mean that, you deterred me away from that.
ok so you mean scrub and then siphon out what you scrubed. sorry now i am confused.
Originally Posted by Kenman345 http:///t/397624/started-a-56g-fowlr-tank-and-could-use-some-help-with-picking-fish/120#post_3546511
No, I did mean that, you deterred me away from that.
ok so you mean scrub and then siphon out what you scrubed. sorry now i am confused.
flower
Well-Known Member
Hi,
I got lost trying to figure out what people have told you...
ALL fish need to be removed from the display tank, the display must stay empty of any fish for 8 weeks to be sure the parasite has died off. Treat the fish in a separate tank for the parasite. Inverts do not get the parasite, so I have no idea why you would be told to remove the macro or scrub any rocks. Just remove your fish and leave the main tank empty. A 10g tank is very small for a QT for more then one fish at a time...It is normal for clowns to "fight" for territory, the dominate will become larger and female. You can add hiding places for the fish to get some relief from each other, and yes copepods and amphipods found in macroalgae are yummy treats that the fish will hunt for food...how well macros hold up to medicine I can't say.
I got lost trying to figure out what people have told you...
ALL fish need to be removed from the display tank, the display must stay empty of any fish for 8 weeks to be sure the parasite has died off. Treat the fish in a separate tank for the parasite. Inverts do not get the parasite, so I have no idea why you would be told to remove the macro or scrub any rocks. Just remove your fish and leave the main tank empty. A 10g tank is very small for a QT for more then one fish at a time...It is normal for clowns to "fight" for territory, the dominate will become larger and female. You can add hiding places for the fish to get some relief from each other, and yes copepods and amphipods found in macroalgae are yummy treats that the fish will hunt for food...how well macros hold up to medicine I can't say.
kenman345
Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by Flower http:///t/397624/started-a-56g-fowlr-tank-and-could-use-some-help-with-picking-fish/120#post_3546523
Hi,
I got lost trying to figure out what people have told you...
ALL fish need to be removed from the display tank, the display must stay empty of any fish for 8 weeks to be sure the parasite has died off. Treat the fish in a separate tank for the parasite. Inverts do not get the parasite, so I have no idea why you would be told to remove the macro or scrub any rocks. Just remove your fish and leave the main tank empty. A 10g tank is very small for a QT for more then one fish at a time...It is normal for clowns to "fight" for territory, the dominate will become larger and female. You can add hiding places for the fish to get some relief from each other, and yes copepods and amphipods found in macroalgae are yummy treats that the fish will hunt for food...how well macros hold up to medicine I can't say.
The fish i believe to be infected are already in a QT, and have never been in the DT yet. No worries.
So you think i have a sick fish as well?
Originally Posted by Flower http:///t/397624/started-a-56g-fowlr-tank-and-could-use-some-help-with-picking-fish/120#post_3546523
Hi,
I got lost trying to figure out what people have told you...
ALL fish need to be removed from the display tank, the display must stay empty of any fish for 8 weeks to be sure the parasite has died off. Treat the fish in a separate tank for the parasite. Inverts do not get the parasite, so I have no idea why you would be told to remove the macro or scrub any rocks. Just remove your fish and leave the main tank empty. A 10g tank is very small for a QT for more then one fish at a time...It is normal for clowns to "fight" for territory, the dominate will become larger and female. You can add hiding places for the fish to get some relief from each other, and yes copepods and amphipods found in macroalgae are yummy treats that the fish will hunt for food...how well macros hold up to medicine I can't say.
The fish i believe to be infected are already in a QT, and have never been in the DT yet. No worries.
So you think i have a sick fish as well?
flower
Well-Known Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kenman345 http:///t/397624/started-a-56g-fowlr-tank-and-could-use-some-help-with-picking-fish/120#post_3546528
The fish i believe to be infected are already in a QT, and have never been in the DT yet. No worries.
So you think i have a sick fish as well?
Hi,
Glad to hear you didn't infect the display...good job
If the fish in the QT are not eating, it has a problem, but if they are fighting that hard, your clown may not be eating because it's stressed out. A 10g is very small for 2 clowns...try putting some décor in the tank for the weaker fish to hide and feel safer. Also make sure there is enough food so they are not fighting for food. As long as the food is eaten within a few minutes, it won't pollute the tank. I would rather do water changes then starve a fish, it stunts their growth.
Originally Posted by Kenman345 http:///t/397624/started-a-56g-fowlr-tank-and-could-use-some-help-with-picking-fish/120#post_3546528
The fish i believe to be infected are already in a QT, and have never been in the DT yet. No worries.
So you think i have a sick fish as well?
Hi,
Glad to hear you didn't infect the display...good job
If the fish in the QT are not eating, it has a problem, but if they are fighting that hard, your clown may not be eating because it's stressed out. A 10g is very small for 2 clowns...try putting some décor in the tank for the weaker fish to hide and feel safer. Also make sure there is enough food so they are not fighting for food. As long as the food is eaten within a few minutes, it won't pollute the tank. I would rather do water changes then starve a fish, it stunts their growth.
kenman345
Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by Flower http:///t/397624/started-a-56g-fowlr-tank-and-could-use-some-help-with-picking-fish/120#post_3546542
Hi,
Glad to hear you didn't infect the display...good job
If the fish in the QT are not eating, it has a problem, but if they are fighting that hard, your clown may not be eating because it's stressed out. A 10g is very small for 2 clowns...try putting some décor in the tank for the weaker fish to hide and feel safer. Also make sure there is enough food so they are not fighting for food. As long as the food is eaten within a few minutes, it won't pollute the tank. I would rather do water changes then starve a fish, it stunts their growth.
Well I have three PVC pipe ends in the Quarantine tank, and as I said, it has copepods in it that I can clearly see.
I am going to re examine the fish today after work and make a decision. I may just treat with cupramine after a water change to try and get out as many copepods as I can.
They definitely were fighting more on the days i havent noticed much feeding. As I have mentioned, i have tried separating them to feed them when i noticed one not eating. I am really worried but hoping no matter what i do, that they will be okay. I have noticed the clownfish that i am worried about has taken to hiding in the PVC pipe pieces more today though, so that may be a good sign.
How long does it take for Ich to kill? if this is the early stages, how long do I have before I can act with a high survival rate? What would you recommend I look for most? I am hoping since that fish hid more today that when it's time to feed they are eating more hardily.
EDIT: So you know, I have a webcam on the QT and watch them while at work quite a lot, but it's not a HD webcam so it's not ideal to see every little intricacy
Originally Posted by Flower http:///t/397624/started-a-56g-fowlr-tank-and-could-use-some-help-with-picking-fish/120#post_3546542
Hi,
Glad to hear you didn't infect the display...good job
If the fish in the QT are not eating, it has a problem, but if they are fighting that hard, your clown may not be eating because it's stressed out. A 10g is very small for 2 clowns...try putting some décor in the tank for the weaker fish to hide and feel safer. Also make sure there is enough food so they are not fighting for food. As long as the food is eaten within a few minutes, it won't pollute the tank. I would rather do water changes then starve a fish, it stunts their growth.
Well I have three PVC pipe ends in the Quarantine tank, and as I said, it has copepods in it that I can clearly see.
I am going to re examine the fish today after work and make a decision. I may just treat with cupramine after a water change to try and get out as many copepods as I can.
They definitely were fighting more on the days i havent noticed much feeding. As I have mentioned, i have tried separating them to feed them when i noticed one not eating. I am really worried but hoping no matter what i do, that they will be okay. I have noticed the clownfish that i am worried about has taken to hiding in the PVC pipe pieces more today though, so that may be a good sign.
How long does it take for Ich to kill? if this is the early stages, how long do I have before I can act with a high survival rate? What would you recommend I look for most? I am hoping since that fish hid more today that when it's time to feed they are eating more hardily.
EDIT: So you know, I have a webcam on the QT and watch them while at work quite a lot, but it's not a HD webcam so it's not ideal to see every little intricacy
kenman345
Member
Well, the fish looked worse and still didnt eat. Worse, i noticed one or two specks of white on the fins of the other fish. I took the Chaeto out, then did a water change of about 60% and then cleaned all the PVC pipe pieces outside of the tank and dried them for a half hour before putting them back in. I think made sure the tank levels were all good and the temperature proper before i added in the cupramine. I am following the instructions, 16 drops for the 10G tank and then 48 hours later, test and redose then keep at that level for 2 weeks. I hate to have to treat the fish, but I know they would've suffered if I did not do anything. I am dosing their frozen food with Kent's Garlic Extreme like I always have been, I just hope they feel better and I am able to properly treat them.
flower
Well-Known Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kenman345 http:///t/397624/started-a-56g-fowlr-tank-and-could-use-some-help-with-picking-fish/120#post_3546544
Well I have three PVC pipe ends in the Quarantine tank, and as I said, it has copepods in it that I can clearly see.
I am going to re examine the fish today after work and make a decision. I may just treat with cupramine after a water change to try and get out as many copepods as I can.
They definitely were fighting more on the days i havent noticed much feeding. As I have mentioned, i have tried separating them to feed them when i noticed one not eating. I am really worried but hoping no matter what i do, that they will be okay. I have noticed the clownfish that i am worried about has taken to hiding in the PVC pipe pieces more today though, so that may be a good sign.
How long does it take for Ich to kill? if this is the early stages, how long do I have before I can act with a high survival rate? What would you recommend I look for most? I am hoping since that fish hid more today that when it's time to feed they are eating more hardily.
EDIT: So you know, I have a webcam on the QT and watch them while at work quite a lot, but it's not a HD webcam so it's not ideal to see every little intricacy
Hi,
Webcam to watch the tank...LOL...Now that's dedication. Just dose according to the instructions and watch the parameters, I always used the stick type for ammonia because it's cheap, fast and easy...any reading at all means a water change, so exact numbers won't matter. Clownfish are tough little buggers, they should bounce back like little champs. Just be sure to feed them enough so they won't fight over food, and things should calm down.
Originally Posted by Kenman345 http:///t/397624/started-a-56g-fowlr-tank-and-could-use-some-help-with-picking-fish/120#post_3546544
Well I have three PVC pipe ends in the Quarantine tank, and as I said, it has copepods in it that I can clearly see.
I am going to re examine the fish today after work and make a decision. I may just treat with cupramine after a water change to try and get out as many copepods as I can.
They definitely were fighting more on the days i havent noticed much feeding. As I have mentioned, i have tried separating them to feed them when i noticed one not eating. I am really worried but hoping no matter what i do, that they will be okay. I have noticed the clownfish that i am worried about has taken to hiding in the PVC pipe pieces more today though, so that may be a good sign.
How long does it take for Ich to kill? if this is the early stages, how long do I have before I can act with a high survival rate? What would you recommend I look for most? I am hoping since that fish hid more today that when it's time to feed they are eating more hardily.
EDIT: So you know, I have a webcam on the QT and watch them while at work quite a lot, but it's not a HD webcam so it's not ideal to see every little intricacy
Hi,
Webcam to watch the tank...LOL...Now that's dedication. Just dose according to the instructions and watch the parameters, I always used the stick type for ammonia because it's cheap, fast and easy...any reading at all means a water change, so exact numbers won't matter. Clownfish are tough little buggers, they should bounce back like little champs. Just be sure to feed them enough so they won't fight over food, and things should calm down.
kenman345
Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by Flower http:///t/397624/started-a-56g-fowlr-tank-and-could-use-some-help-with-picking-fish/120#post_3546571
Hi,
Webcam to watch the tank...LOL...Now that's dedication. Just dose according to the instructions and watch the parameters, I always used the stick type for ammonia because it's cheap, fast and easy...any reading at all means a water change, so exact numbers won't matter. Clownfish are tough little buggers, they should bounce back like little champs. Just be sure to feed them enough so they won't fight over food, and things should calm down.
It gets even more dramatic, when not QTing fish, I have this little display set to show my DT
Runs off a Raspberry Pi and I use VLC to watch the stream above my computer screens at work. Made the wooden stand with my dad. In all, it's nice and relaxing during long phone calls. just a simple 4.3" screen. Only is 480p resolution though, but that's pretty nice on such a small screen.
Originally Posted by Flower http:///t/397624/started-a-56g-fowlr-tank-and-could-use-some-help-with-picking-fish/120#post_3546571
Hi,
Webcam to watch the tank...LOL...Now that's dedication. Just dose according to the instructions and watch the parameters, I always used the stick type for ammonia because it's cheap, fast and easy...any reading at all means a water change, so exact numbers won't matter. Clownfish are tough little buggers, they should bounce back like little champs. Just be sure to feed them enough so they won't fight over food, and things should calm down.
It gets even more dramatic, when not QTing fish, I have this little display set to show my DT
Runs off a Raspberry Pi and I use VLC to watch the stream above my computer screens at work. Made the wooden stand with my dad. In all, it's nice and relaxing during long phone calls. just a simple 4.3" screen. Only is 480p resolution though, but that's pretty nice on such a small screen.
flower
Well-Known Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kenman345 http:///t/397624/started-a-56g-fowlr-tank-and-could-use-some-help-with-picking-fish/120#post_3546577
It gets even more dramatic, when not QTing fish, I have this little display set to show my DT
Runs off a Raspberry Pi and I use VLC to watch the stream above my computer screens at work. Made the wooden stand with my dad. In all, it's nice and relaxing during long phone calls. just a simple 4.3" screen. Only is 480p resolution though, but that's pretty nice on such a small screen.
LOL...I need to set something like that up for my elderly mom, whom I care for and lives with me...who likes to feed the dogs 5Xs a day. I now hide the food dishes.
Originally Posted by Kenman345 http:///t/397624/started-a-56g-fowlr-tank-and-could-use-some-help-with-picking-fish/120#post_3546577
It gets even more dramatic, when not QTing fish, I have this little display set to show my DT
Runs off a Raspberry Pi and I use VLC to watch the stream above my computer screens at work. Made the wooden stand with my dad. In all, it's nice and relaxing during long phone calls. just a simple 4.3" screen. Only is 480p resolution though, but that's pretty nice on such a small screen.
LOL...I need to set something like that up for my elderly mom, whom I care for and lives with me...who likes to feed the dogs 5Xs a day. I now hide the food dishes.