stocking my tank question

xhappyx

Member
right now i'm currently curing ich so i'm not about to add any fish to my tank. but i'm curious how many fish i'm actually able to have. currently i have 1 yellow tang, 1 kole tang, and 1 damsel. a whole asortment of crabs snails and shrimp. i have a 75 gallon with about 80lbs of liverock, 60 or so lbs of livesand. i just don't know what is to much. these are a list of the fish i wanted to be able to get. it is going to be a reef tank as well.
percula clown
bullet goby
diamond goby
lawnmower blenny
mandarin
is that too much or is that ok?
 

xhappyx

Member
my levels are
amonia 0
nitrite 0
ph 8.2
nitrate 5
i'm not planning on adding anything for about a month or so. i want to be certain that the ich is completely gone before i go and add anything. i'm also really considering a uv sterilizer. i have mixed thoughts about it though. from what i've heard it takes out the things that the refugium would put into it. so i'm confused about that. but is my fish list too much for the future or is it doable?
 

dmc888

Member
The bioload should be ok imo. Just have to make sure they get along.
I have a slow hangon uv with about 300gph. Which is not as drastic as a return line uv filter.
The hangon is near the top of the tank so most of your pods should be ok, atleast the ones that are not floating.
If i had a tang it would be a must.
No more green algea blooms too.
 

xhappyx

Member
just want to be sure i'm not putting to many fish in there . is 75gallons good for 2 tangs? i know that they need a lot of space. and with the uv sterilizer am i able to put one in my sump? i like the look of not having anything hanging on the display tank.
 

dmc888

Member
Yeah that will be fine in the sump. I had my old uv setup running from my wetdry.
I have it hang on because i wanted the extra flow in the tank
Well the tangs are very different from those other fish.
They have high bioloads and require alot of swimming room.
Were your tangs fighting at all.
I did have a yellow before which had ich from fighting in my 55g.
I think the yellow should be fine, a maybe on the kole.
I searched and the yellow needs a 50g, and the kole 80g.
As long as they are not fighting and happy they should be fine.
It would help if you had a lot of gph so they can fight the current.
I myself wouldn't try another tang till i get my 6 ft tank or larger.
 

xhappyx

Member
Originally Posted by guineawhop
i wouldn't put any more fish in that tank imo. unless you decide to get rid of the yellow tang
why's that"?
 

xhappyx

Member
Originally Posted by dmc888
Yeah that will be fine in the sump. I had my old uv setup running from my wetdry.
I have it hang on because i wanted the extra flow in the tank
Well the tangs are very different from those other fish.
They have high bioloads and require alot of swimming room.
Were your tangs fighting at all.
I did have a yellow before which had ich from fighting in my 55g.
I think the yellow should be fine, a maybe on the kole.
I searched and the yellow needs a 50g, and the kole 80g.
As long as they are not fighting and happy they should be fine.
It would help if you had a lot of gph so they can fight the current.
I myself wouldn't try another tang till i get my 6 ft tank or larger.
they haven't ever fought i think the reason they got a bit stresed because i moved and added a bunch of rock. other then that i just added a new pump tonight it was a bit overkill but it was mag9 but i have a valve on it but the deal was good. i plan on ting off the return to spraybars hopefully if i can find a decent diagram of one.
 

dmc888

Member
Keep an eye on the water flow. Make sure the water isn't rising or falling. Steady water line is good.
Was the rock uncured, or maybe a little cured. The ammonia could of stressed them.
 

xhappyx

Member
amonia tested out fine only thing that's a bit off is the nitrate and that's not even that bad it's only at 5. well i need to do something with the return. the flow is way to much. it's blowing my sand around i don't like that too much. i'm wondering would something like this work off of the mag9 i think it's rated at 950 gph. i have a ballvalve on it right now and it's still pushing out a little harder then i would like. also the rock i got they had a coral display in the same tank plus fish in it. so i don't know from what i'm hearing tangs get stressed easy and get ich easy since my levels haven't gona back up that's all i can think off is that i stressed them out a bit to much with all the moving of the rock. so far so good though the white spot on my yelllow tangs tail fell off. but the kole still has the little dots all on his fins. we'll see what happens but i want to get the flow taken care off. if this would would work i also have a mag3 that i wanted to maybe use as a closed loop for one return on each of the back corners so i would have all the corners covered i don't know if that is too much flow or what just an idea but hopefully this pic i can use any input would help thanks.
 

dmc888

Member
My ich battle was pretty long.
The only ones that made it were my clowns and damsels.
That setup looks good.
I remember i seen one that someone made here were it was split into four .
One at each corner. Looked good, but i'm sure the pic is long gone with the site work they did.
I know that pump is pretty strong, thats why i said to keep an eye on your waterline.
Squidd would be your best bet calculating how strong the gph would be at each output.
He is usually in the equipment section, he knows just about everything about equipment.
 

xhappyx

Member
Originally Posted by dmc888
My ich battle was pretty long.
The only ones that made it were my clowns and damsels.
That setup looks good.
I remember i seen one that someone made here were it was split into four .
One at each corner. Looked good, but i'm sure the pic is long gone with the site work they did.
I know that pump is pretty strong, thats why i said to keep an eye on your waterline.
Squidd would be your best bet calculating how strong the gph would be at each output.
He is usually in the equipment section, he knows just about everything about equipment.
well i tried that thing and it didn't work the water basically just trickled out of it. so i went with a different aproach that has worked real good here's a few pics of it. i ended up putting a spray bar behind my rocks. my new problem i'm faced with is that the wetdry can't really keep up with the flow of it so i removed the top section so the water is just flowing on the bioballs. i started building a sump ou tof my 20gallon with 3 baffles and i'm going to put a refuge on the side sorta like what u have. i'm just going to sell the wetdry. i priced out a uv sterilizer it's not all that much money so i'm looking into getting one those the ick seems to be decreasing which is good. i also started dipping there food in the garlic to buildup there imune system a bit and i changed up there diet they seem to be eating more. and they love the new current.


 

dmc888

Member
Your tank looks good. The extra flow will keep the tank cleaner too.
Since you have alot of lr those little fish you want will have plenty choices for their territories. So fighting shouldn't be an issue.
Make sure you have enough space in the 20 for extra water if the power goes out. A waterline like your wetdry. Probably mostly from the main tank and a little from the fuge.
Since you have no filter pad , debris will stick to the bioballs. Which can build up nitrates faster.
If you are almost done with the sump i wouldn't worry.
Can test levels just incase.
Since i got my uv my water has been crystal clear. Plus less green algea .
If you are going to use bioballs i would transfer your old ones to your sump.
Just don't let them dry out or use fw.
 

xhappyx

Member
Originally Posted by dmc888
Your tank looks good. The extra flow will keep the tank cleaner too.
Since you have alot of lr those little fish you want will have plenty choices for their territories. So fighting shouldn't be an issue.
Make sure you have enough space in the 20 for extra water if the power goes out. A waterline like your wetdry. Probably mostly from the main tank and a little from the fuge.
Since you have no filter pad , debris will stick to the bioballs. Which can build up nitrates faster.
If you are almost done with the sump i wouldn't worry.
Can test levels just incase.
Since i got my uv my water has been crystal clear. Plus less green algea .
If you are going to use bioballs i would transfer your old ones to your sump.
Just don't let them dry out or use fw.
how high should the baffles be i made it 10" and the tank is 16" tall. also just to be sure exactly how much room did i need to have for the return pump. i left about 8 inches. just hoping that's enough. i wanted to be sure i had enough room for skimmer, heater, and uv. so i made the main section of it pretty big with 3 baffles.
 

dmc888

Member
Ok i did squidds equation and came up with 5.6g backwash from the tank.
If your tank is 48x18.
And you will probably a litle from the fuge.
So i'm thinking 7-9 gallons of extra volume to be safe.
You can see where 11-13g water mark would be to determine the baffle heights.
Test fitting anything you can would be best.
The uv will only need a ph in there and a small diameter hose or pvc as a return. Mine is 3/4inch.
They also have titanium heaters that are alot shorter. They seem popular.
That should be enough room for your mag 9.5
It measures 5.5" x 3.4"x5" If you are going to setup the fuge like how mine is . It is best to have the drain fall in the return pump chamber, so make sure you have room for the pvc pipe. Size would depend on how much flow you wanted in the fuge.
Here is a link to the backwash calculating info.
https://www.saltwaterfish.com/vb/showthread.php?t=163959
Saltwaterfish.com Message Boards - Sump/refug (Squidd Please)
 

xhappyx

Member
Originally Posted by dmc888
Ok i did squidds equation and came up with 5.6g backwash from the tank.
If your tank is 48x18.
And you will probably a litle from the fuge.
So i'm thinking 7-9 gallons of extra volume to be safe.
You can see where 11-13g water mark would be to determine the baffle heights.
Test fitting anything you can would be best.
The uv will only need a ph in there and a small diameter hose or pvc as a return. Mine is 3/4inch.
They also have titanium heaters that are alot shorter. They seem popular.
That should be enough room for your mag 9.5
It measures 5.5" x 3.4"x5" If you are going to setup the fuge like how mine is . It is best to have the drain fall in the return pump chamber, so make sure you have room for the pvc pipe. Size would depend on how much flow you wanted in the fuge.
Here is a link to the backwash calculating info.
https://www.saltwaterfish.com/vb/showthread.php?t=163959
Saltwaterfish.com Message Boards - Sump/refug (Squidd Please)
thanks for all the help. about how much flow do i want going throw the refugium? now would i t off the drain or the return? i'll check out that link u sent me.
 

dmc888

Member
Well i wanted mine for pods, so slow gph was what i wanted.
I only have a 70gph ph with 3/4pvc return, very slow. I have all kinds of pods in there multiplying.
The most i would go is 300gph with atleast a 1 1/2 inch pvc drain. Maybe 2in to be safe.
 

xhappyx

Member
Originally Posted by dmc888
Well i wanted mine for pods, so slow gph was what i wanted.
I only have a 70gph ph with 3/4pvc return, very slow. I have all kinds of pods in there multiplying.
The most i would go is 300gph with atleast a 1 1/2 inch pvc drain. Maybe 2in to be safe.
so basically real slow trickle almost from it nothing real crazy would work. so if i t'd off with a ball valve i'd be good. i dont' really want to have another pump in the sump if i can avoid it. from what i hear to many pumps can effect the heat a bit from the ph.
 

dmc888

Member
Yeah with a tvalve it will work.
Would probably go with atleast a 2inch then.
Slower is better time for refugium to absorb the nitrates.
True more phs will create more heat.
When you get everything running , everything should have a steady waterline.
 
Top