mrinelfrlz
Member
also if this would work would i be able to have two submersible pumps instead of a outside dry one
Thinking About Taking The Plunge????
- Thread starter mrinelfrlz
- Start date
murph
Active Member
There is no reason you cant plumb the sump/fuge to the other room. All that has to be considered here is head height and any 90 degree turns. I think you lose about 15 percent (not sure) pure 90 degree turn in plumbing and pump out put at various head heights will be listed on the box.
Keep in mind sump will still have to be lower than the drain portion of your hang on overflow. Water runs down hill only.
You still need a small hole drilled in the return line at water level of DT to break siphon in case of power outage. There should be no reason to have to shut off pump when not at home.
Two submersible pumps will mean two lines. If you try to plumb together two separate submersed pumps you will most likely get a lot of bubbles into DT from return line. Both lines will need a hole drilled for siphon break. Two pumps will probably present a problem with bubbles also is you attempt to plumb them into the same closed loop.
I would use submersed pump(s) which will eliminate one more potential leak point for the plumbing and potential for losing prime if power goes out and then back on while you are not there.
Your overflows will stop draining to sump when water falls below the surface skimmer box of the overflow so no concerns there.
I think you will be far happier with this setup as far as maintenance goes. You will be able to perform the majority of it with no disruption to the display at all and you will have plenty of room to work.
As for the stand that's an issue your a going to have to decide for yourself. Losing a little Coraline to gain the piece of mind of having well constructed stand are the chooses. I would build a new stand. It does not even have to be perfect. Place a block of Styrofoam on top before you place the tank back on and it will self level and the foam will act as an insulator also.
Keep in mind sump will still have to be lower than the drain portion of your hang on overflow. Water runs down hill only.
You still need a small hole drilled in the return line at water level of DT to break siphon in case of power outage. There should be no reason to have to shut off pump when not at home.
Two submersible pumps will mean two lines. If you try to plumb together two separate submersed pumps you will most likely get a lot of bubbles into DT from return line. Both lines will need a hole drilled for siphon break. Two pumps will probably present a problem with bubbles also is you attempt to plumb them into the same closed loop.
I would use submersed pump(s) which will eliminate one more potential leak point for the plumbing and potential for losing prime if power goes out and then back on while you are not there.
Your overflows will stop draining to sump when water falls below the surface skimmer box of the overflow so no concerns there.
I think you will be far happier with this setup as far as maintenance goes. You will be able to perform the majority of it with no disruption to the display at all and you will have plenty of room to work.
As for the stand that's an issue your a going to have to decide for yourself. Losing a little Coraline to gain the piece of mind of having well constructed stand are the chooses. I would build a new stand. It does not even have to be perfect. Place a block of Styrofoam on top before you place the tank back on and it will self level and the foam will act as an insulator also.
mrinelfrlz
Member
Keep in mind sump will still have to be lower than the drain portion of your hang on overflow. Water runs down hill only.
even from this far away and the pippes will still have to go back up throught he floor too
but it will still siphon with just one pump?
thats why i thought you need to one to pull water out of the DT and one to take it out of the fug and back into the DT
so ok i can probably just place the tank on the floor in the back room then right?
also about my light im wondering because i cant seem to find a place on it for a hanger because i wanted to hang it since i got the tank if there is a way i will try
and for the stand i will support it more but i think i have a new project this winter just in case but its not wobbly or anything but about the water spot i didnt do that was on it already
i use towels to stop water from touching any part of the wood at all times!! when im doing maintenance
sorry for so many questions and thank you for your help but i have alot more coming if thats cool
even from this far away and the pippes will still have to go back up throught he floor too
but it will still siphon with just one pump?
thats why i thought you need to one to pull water out of the DT and one to take it out of the fug and back into the DT
so ok i can probably just place the tank on the floor in the back room then right?
also about my light im wondering because i cant seem to find a place on it for a hanger because i wanted to hang it since i got the tank if there is a way i will try
and for the stand i will support it more but i think i have a new project this winter just in case but its not wobbly or anything but about the water spot i didnt do that was on it already
i use towels to stop water from touching any part of the wood at all times!! when im doing maintenance
sorry for so many questions and thank you for your help but i have alot more coming if thats cool
murph
Active Member
Ok one last time about the drilling thing and I will stop harping about it
Full tank shot. After I do something about the powerhead tank will look clean as far as equipment goes. You already have a lot of equiment in the tank and when you add HOOFs your going to have even more.
I used hang on over flows also and eventually all this stuff is going to start to bother you. You seem a tad worried about water on the floor and the best way to eliminate the chances of any kind of catastrophic failure. I.E. U tube loseing siphon and pump sending water volume of sump over top of display and on to floor and new stand, is to drill the thing out.
Full tank shot. After I do something about the powerhead tank will look clean as far as equipment goes. You already have a lot of equiment in the tank and when you add HOOFs your going to have even more.
I used hang on over flows also and eventually all this stuff is going to start to bother you. You seem a tad worried about water on the floor and the best way to eliminate the chances of any kind of catastrophic failure. I.E. U tube loseing siphon and pump sending water volume of sump over top of display and on to floor and new stand, is to drill the thing out.
murph
Active Member
It wont drain up hill and you cant use pumps. They will never equal out and your flood risk is vary high. If you can run the drain through the wall and down to sump it will work.
There is no pump needed to pull water from DT the overflows do this. But like I said it will run down hill only. Sump has to be lower than the lowest segment of your drain.
There is no pump needed to pull water from DT the overflows do this. But like I said it will run down hill only. Sump has to be lower than the lowest segment of your drain.
mrinelfrlz
Member
Originally Posted by Murph
Maybe consider a hanging kit for your light fixture which means you could hang your overflows on the end of the tank and have a "show" fuge/sump on the side of the tank and visible as part of the display. One of my first setups was like this and people spent as much time looking at the fuge as the DT.
would these be places i might be able to put a hanger on and just what type of hangers could i get anyways?
or do are they DIY
Maybe consider a hanging kit for your light fixture which means you could hang your overflows on the end of the tank and have a "show" fuge/sump on the side of the tank and visible as part of the display. One of my first setups was like this and people spent as much time looking at the fuge as the DT.
would these be places i might be able to put a hanger on and just what type of hangers could i get anyways?
or do are they DIY
mrinelfrlz
Member
Originally Posted by Murph
It wont drain up hill and you cant use pumps. They will never equal out and your flood risk is vary high. If you can run the drain through the wall and down to sump it will work.
There is no pump needed to pull water from DT the overflows do this. But like I said it will run down hill only. Sump has to be lower than the lowest segment of your drain.
well being that there is a bathroom in between the dinning and back room thats a no go ok back to your beside DT idea
so i can block off the left and right sides and just have the fug area for display interesting
so do i need to build a cabinet type structure in front or around it?
you dont have any old pics do you?
It wont drain up hill and you cant use pumps. They will never equal out and your flood risk is vary high. If you can run the drain through the wall and down to sump it will work.
There is no pump needed to pull water from DT the overflows do this. But like I said it will run down hill only. Sump has to be lower than the lowest segment of your drain.
well being that there is a bathroom in between the dinning and back room thats a no go ok back to your beside DT idea
so i can block off the left and right sides and just have the fug area for display interesting
so do i need to build a cabinet type structure in front or around it?
you dont have any old pics do you?
mrinelfrlz
Member
Originally Posted by Murph
Most likely. contact your lights manufacturer. They probably have hanging kits for it.
came with the tank and he got it of the auction site and he gave me no papers on it i looked up the name onthe side"ULTRALIGHT " but got a bunch of airplane sites instead
really nice tank by the way
Most likely. contact your lights manufacturer. They probably have hanging kits for it.
came with the tank and he got it of the auction site and he gave me no papers on it i looked up the name onthe side"ULTRALIGHT " but got a bunch of airplane sites instead
really nice tank by the way
turningtim
Active Member
Wow, you guys been busy!
Pretty much agree 100% or what Murph has said. (I don't think this is the first either)
But one question, do you have a basement under the tank? If you go the display fuge look. Why not build a small stand for a fuge and then a sump under it so all the equipment will be out of site.
So, it would be DT-> fuge (partail flow)-> sump (remaining flow)->back to the DT.
I don't have as big as a hang up with HOB OF's. I have used them for years and make my own. Never had a flood!
But in saying that, I don't think its such a big deal to make a stand, drill the tank, etc and move the tank. I've moved several and done add-ons and removed all the critters. Never lost anything.
Tim
Pretty much agree 100% or what Murph has said. (I don't think this is the first either)
But one question, do you have a basement under the tank? If you go the display fuge look. Why not build a small stand for a fuge and then a sump under it so all the equipment will be out of site.
So, it would be DT-> fuge (partail flow)-> sump (remaining flow)->back to the DT.
I don't have as big as a hang up with HOB OF's. I have used them for years and make my own. Never had a flood!
But in saying that, I don't think its such a big deal to make a stand, drill the tank, etc and move the tank. I've moved several and done add-ons and removed all the critters. Never lost anything.
Tim
mrinelfrlz
Member
Originally Posted by TurningTim
But one question, do you have a basement under the tank?
YES
i dont know why i didnt thank of that
i could put it right under the DT down stairs im such a dope!!
if this will work i want to start getting stuff for it this friday
But one question, do you have a basement under the tank?
YES
i dont know why i didnt thank of that
i could put it right under the DT down stairs im such a dope!!
if this will work i want to start getting stuff for it this friday
turningtim
Active Member
OK you got that licked! Now you are only doing a 600 gph OF? Why not go 2x1" drains which will give you 1200gph. have to look and see what the amount of head would be but a mag 18 would do.
Whats the ceiling height in the basement? You could build a kinda tall bech to put the fuge on.
Now you should have all the room you need. I would go with 2 separate tanks, one for the sump and one for the fuge.
Let me know what sizes and dims you're thinking of and i will do some drawings.......
Tim
Whats the ceiling height in the basement? You could build a kinda tall bech to put the fuge on.
Now you should have all the room you need. I would go with 2 separate tanks, one for the sump and one for the fuge.
Let me know what sizes and dims you're thinking of and i will do some drawings.......
Tim
mrinelfrlz
Member
"Whats the ceiling height in the basement? You could build a kinda tall bech to put the fuge on".
already thinking about that
its 7' high
already thinking about that
its 7' high
mrinelfrlz
Member
now before you start drawing do you think i should go smaller since it is two tanks or possibly just a big single one
sorry for all these questions you all must be getting tired of it
sorry for all these questions you all must be getting tired of it
turningtim
Active Member
how about a 55?
mrinelfrlz
Member
Originally Posted by TurningTim
how about a 55?
that works
how about a 55?
that works
mrinelfrlz
Member
Originally Posted by TurningTim
OK you got that licked! Now you are only doing a 600 gph OF? Why not go 2x1" drains which will give you 1200gph. have to look and see what the amount of head would be but a mag 18 would do.
ok do you mean one OF with two 1" drains or
two OF's that have just one 1" drain in each because if this is what you meant i was already going to do this
OK you got that licked! Now you are only doing a 600 gph OF? Why not go 2x1" drains which will give you 1200gph. have to look and see what the amount of head would be but a mag 18 would do.
ok do you mean one OF with two 1" drains or
two OF's that have just one 1" drain in each because if this is what you meant i was already going to do this
mrinelfrlz
Member
alright i got some info on the pump
These robust, epoxy-sealed, low-head, magnetic drive pumps can be used either in-line (above water) or submersed! Designed for fresh and salt water. The outlet can be rotated to different positions for vertical or horizontal discharge. A foam pre-filter is included with pumps MD2-MD18 only. A plastic pre-filter is included with pumps MD24-MD36. A 10' power cord is standard; 18' is available (see note under price block). UL-listed, MD2-MD7 1/2" FIPT inlet/MNPT outlet; MD9-MD18 3/4" FIPT inlet/MNPT outlet; MD24 and MD36 1" FIPT inlet/MNPT outlet. 115V/60 Hz (will operate ±25 percent less flow with 50 Hz). Three-y
These robust, epoxy-sealed, low-head, magnetic drive pumps can be used either in-line (above water) or submersed! Designed for fresh and salt water. The outlet can be rotated to different positions for vertical or horizontal discharge. A foam pre-filter is included with pumps MD2-MD18 only. A plastic pre-filter is included with pumps MD24-MD36. A 10' power cord is standard; 18' is available (see note under price block). UL-listed, MD2-MD7 1/2" FIPT inlet/MNPT outlet; MD9-MD18 3/4" FIPT inlet/MNPT outlet; MD24 and MD36 1" FIPT inlet/MNPT outlet. 115V/60 Hz (will operate ±25 percent less flow with 50 Hz). Three-y
mrinelfrlz
Member
and on the fittings im getting
1" x 1" Ball Valve Slip x Slip
and as far as i can tell im going to have to use a
1" x 3/4" Reducing Bushing SLP x SLP and then put it in a
3/4" x 3/4" Male Adapter MPT x Slip
because one end of the pump is a FPT connection and the other is a MPT connection and there is no 1"x3/4 reducing SLIPx MPT type
all in order in pics
1" x 1" Ball Valve Slip x Slip
and as far as i can tell im going to have to use a
1" x 3/4" Reducing Bushing SLP x SLP and then put it in a
3/4" x 3/4" Male Adapter MPT x Slip
because one end of the pump is a FPT connection and the other is a MPT connection and there is no 1"x3/4 reducing SLIPx MPT type
all in order in pics
