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i ran an 150W mh and 2x32W PC actinics on my 15H (same footprint as the 10g). that said, 150W might be a bit much for 10g though due to the much lower depth, especially with the 65W supps. 9" should be alright but you should allow for some adjustment up or down for intensity adjustment. i ran...

Originally Posted by fedukeford the blue one isnt a kenya tree leather, it looks more like a finger leather or some other leather... i agree, could be a lobophyton or a sinularia. i'd guess the former (lobo) rather than the latter though. obvious spicule evidence at its base and a softer...

i think the size of the 70W DE is about the same for a 150W DE (fixture and bulb-wise). i've not run the 70W though. but i figured if the 150W was too much i could just raise it higher (to lessen the intensity, inverse relationship). cost depends on where you get it. i don't think...

1. i think the 70W MH is the smallest commonly found. i think there was a 40W'er but i never heard anything after a mention a couple of years ago. could've been a mistake then. 2. "best" is really subjective. i would suggest (if only the one bulb/light could fit) to get a 20000K bulb. that...

Originally Posted by davind Would a Feather Duster be a good alternative? Tinyreef, actually it's a Marineland Eclipse 12. Please don't bash me, I'm just starting out. i would never bash someone (unless i knew them, then's it's just friendly ribbing ). can't say i recommend any of the...

maybe some discosoma mushrooms. low-light corals or non-photos as suggested. but i wouldn't try the red or blues in such a setup though. 12g probably the cube so you're also probably talking about Hagen NO's unless you're retrofitting for URI's (which would be a significant upgrade imo-even...

i'm not sure if i can post another ols here since this is swf.com's site but championlighting.com carries 18" fluorescents both NO and VHO (frankly, they're the only place i know of that does carry that 18" size in VHO). champ's also only dry goods so i would think there's less conflict with...

while this and other forums are helpful, maybe you can get some local help as well. you can try ultimatereef.net (a UK reef site - not commercial). good luck and hope you stay in the hobby!

i have 150W 20000K over a 15H (also have 2x32W actinics), just about right imo. i used to run it with VHO's (4x30W URI's, for over 2-years) but i've been running the MH for over a year now. while i still prefer the actinics of the VHO's, the point-source-lighting of the mh really can't be...

evyl, it can be done but it really shouldn't be the method you're looking for right out of the box. i agree with the others that larger tanks are easier for this, more cushion. try a Fish-Only or Fish-Only-With-Live-Rock setup first. 6~12g setup like one of the popular cubes should let you...

waterchanges can be done like traditional tanks. prep the volume you want to change, remove that amount in an identical container (16 oz. plastic party cups work well/cheaply), and then introduce the new sw slowly. i usually use even smaller plastic cups (4 oz.). the heat issues can be...

Originally Posted by say Is your tank as bright as it looks in the pic?? It looks like your couldn't even look at it comfortably... it the 150 would do that I don't want that... I want something comfortable to look at and good for my corals... it shouldn't be too bright. heck, the 150W may not...

i'm not sure if "harder/more difficult" is truly the issue with nanos. i think it's more a question of vigilence. the main thing you MUST keep an eye on is varying parameters on a nano because of the much smaller volume and quicker change in levels from the smaller ratios (especially salinity...

i'd second the evaporation issue. you will need an ATO. a very good/reliable one. you'll be leaving the tank for over two days each week, a lot can go wrong in that period of time and creating a sw mess may not aid your employment opportunities. temperature is also another issue, hot and cold...

there's a 2.5gal pico reef contest ongoing on nano-reef.com

Originally Posted by HappyVac Two of the smallest size powerheads...(i.e. Maxi-Jet?) try microjets or minijets. my pers pref are the microjets.

Originally Posted by yz106 Well im used to critism but not sugestions, its a 9"x6"x4.5" :flinching: i think i have the same tank (empty). i still say a couple of sexy or a couple of marine ghost shrimps are fine. i wouldn't try a fish in that tank though. (maybe a small citron, shhhh) again...

probably 2~3 shrimp would be good. they're not very much bioload and it's not like they'll have a lot of places to hide. i'm assuming the betta kit is typical (1-pint to 1-quart capacity). for that small of a tank (assuming it's that small) i'd tend to agree a fish is too much of a waste...

get a lid, regardless if you get a fish or not. the lid limits evaporation (stabilizing the salinity) and lowers a lot of the upkeep of the pico-range tanks imo. even if you have to custom cut it or even saran-wrap it (i've seen that too), it helps a lot.

clown goby is tiny enough but basically catatonic. she may not like the lethargic fish if she's a newb. neon gobies, eel gobies, or maybe a young clown or cardinal could be nice. they're get a little too big after a couple of years but that's down the road. shrimp are another good livestock...