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I would go with either chromis or anthias - not both. The rest of the list looks great though!

Chaetomorpha is the probably the best for nutrient export. It is nice to grow some other varieties though if you have tangs so you can throw a treat in the display occasionally.

Yellow water is usually due to lack of water changes, dysfunctional protein skimmer or full skimmer cup, and/or lack carbon or exhausted carbon that needs replaced. It can also be from caulerpa macroalgae sexual reproduction. You can change 99% of the water at a time with no ill effects...

They do fine singly, but you can add two of them to your tank if you wish. I doubt that they will help your parasite problem at all though.

Originally Posted by wbradenpt wouldn't have guessed. wonder what you have to do to be able to buy directly from a wholesaler? Anyone can do it if you are willing to spend ~$1000 on livestock at one time and not be completely sure of what you're getting. You get to pick the fish and corals...

My 90 gal. is cycling as I type this! I got a Wave2K wavemaker (It actually makes waves!) pushing about 4000 GPH in the display and a 100 gal. sump in the basement with (2) 300 watt halogen lamps growing chaetomorpha and some other macroalgae on a reverse photoperiod. My baserock had a lot of...

I know my buddy has at least 750 GPH of turnover in that tank - he may even have another powerhead behind the rockwork on the left pushing another 250 GPH.

Originally Posted by kderider Does anyone know if you can use sterile water that is used in hospitals? Oh, I am just reading the label and it says "Sterile, distilled, nonpyrogenic, pH 5.5 (5.0 to 7.0)" I'm thinking that you would have to adjust the pH everytime you did a water change, or...

A friend of mine keeps many SPS and a clam successfully under (2) 65 watt PCs: one 10,000 K and one actinic 03 460 nm. The colors are good, but he has said himself that the colors of the mother colonies he got them from were much more intense under metal halides. He has grown all of these SPS...

I used the purple cap and labeled distilled water from Wal-Mart for over a year with no problems. It always measured 0 ppm on my TDS meter, however, another member on this board posted they bought the same jugs from a different location in the USA and their water was 100+ ppm on TDS. Moral of...

Hey Lauren, When I moved my tank to my new house I unintentionally stirred up my sandbed and I think I released a lot of junk into the water because I have had a serious red cyanobacteria problem ever since. I am losing the battle and some of my corals are receding. I know you had success with...

Great progress P.D.!

Lookin' good!

It will be fine. If you have PCs it would actually be fine anywhere, but it will do best closer to the lights.

That is the worst case of HLLE I have ever seen. Kudos to you for trying to provide and find this guy a better home.

The ones that do not need light are often not successfully kept by hobbyists unfortunately.

T-5s or PCs will work great and as stated they are for aesthetics only so the wattage does not particularly matter, but the more the better is usually the way to go.

I have seen many metal halide lamps lit over many mature tanks and in my opinion, of those I have seen thus far, the 14,000 K Hamilton Phoenix produces the best color and the corals look amazing under it. This is of course my humble opinion.

Wow P.D.! I haven't checked in on your thread in a long time and your tank is looking awesome! Nice work buddy! My 90 gal. display and 200 gal. total system should be up and running by next month. I can't wait!

That is impressive growth! Strong light, nitrates and phosphates as close to zero ppm as possible, calcium 400-450 ppm, magnesium 1200-1400 ppm, alkalinity 3.0-4.5 meq/L (8-12 dkH), and keep pH a little high for maximum calcification 8.3-8.6, 8.45 being ideal).