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As already mentioned, they tend to pick each other off in small numbers due to the hierarchical structure of their shoal. The smallest number I've been successful with is seven. They are very docile toward other fish but not other Chromis.

1 - looks appropriate except really really light on the snails. Niger Trigger? 2 - 1/2 a cube per day would work. I'd suggest you look into making your own food once everything settles down.

Before investing a lot of money (reference "loose leash on the pocket book) I'd suggest a couple things. 1 - Buy a good saltwater book like The Conscientious Marine Aquarist 2 - Review the picture forum on this site and find something similar to what you are looking for. I had a 155 gallon...

I'm still thinking some type of Tunicate.

I can't see any details from the picture provided. Google "Black Tunicate" and see if you can find pictures of something similar. Just my first guess.

Makes sense to me. As long as the scrubber doesn't take ammonia down to zero. hmmmm, thanks for the thought.

It will take out the ammonia that develops, thus inhibiting beneficial bacteria.

Vinegar is fairly harmless in small doses. It's perfect for cleaning an old tank or saltwater equipment.

Luck!

I've encountered this type of rock before multiple times when hobbyists have wanted to save a few bucks. It often, but not always, creates an algae problem. If it was good live rock from the start before it was dried off then it would have been loaded with not only bacteria, but small...

These are symptoms of ammonia poisoning.

Only add "buffering" if your Alkalinity is low. Otherwise it does more harm than good.

I do trust Joyce, she's been at it longer and she wrote an excellent book. Just for frame of reference... I've actually had the best luck with a point light source. ie. not diffused at all. I've found that it causes the larvae AND the rotifers to congregate directly under the light source...

If it were me I would first ensure the probe was calibrated correctly. Then I would use the probe knowing it might read a little low. Keeping the PH stable is probably more important that the actual PH reading.

Tell me specifics about the lighting. I've never made the tank bottom white. Where did you hear about that technique?

Day three mortality is usually starvation. If there were enough Rotifers, it could be what the rotifers were fed, or the rotifers were not congregating in the same places as the Clownfish larvae. Was the tank lit?

Every system is different. Many people can't even keep a small bunch of algae because there's not enough nutrients to support the macro algae. I had a 900 gallon refugium for my 155 gallon tank. Completely excessive but I loved it.

To prevent Caulerpa sporulation remove a percentage of the old growth every week. The percentage depends on the growth rate. It does not require 24 hour lighting. I would suggest reverse photo period lighting where the refugium lighting comes on when the display shuts off and goes off when...

It's just my opinion. Take in the options and do what you think is best. In my experience, having a lot of algae growing during the cycle interferes with the healthy colonization of nitrifying bacteria. That's why I advise to wait until after the cycle completes and the bacteria populations...

There are many differing opinions on this but my advice is NOT to start running an algae scrubber, or even an algae refugium right away. I highly recommend waiting until after the tank has cycled and is stable.