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I drilled my 72g for two overflows and a return jet. You just can't drill the bottom glass because it's most likely tempered.

It seems to be splitting.

Important physiological differences exist between saltwater fish and freshwater fish. Both have body fluids that are similar in composition. In freshwater species, the surrounding water, although containing some dissolved substances, is less salty than the body fluids. The opposite situation...

If you treat the tank with copper you'll never be able to put corals in there again and you won't be able to reuse the rocks either. Correct me if I'm wrong Beth.

What did you use to start your cycle?

That's nothing I would have tried. But I'm old school.

Your salinity needs to go back up to 1.024-33. Lower your temp a couple of degrees. Ph I think should be at 8.2. What are you using to kickstart your cycle to get the beneficial bacteria established?

What are the test result numbers of everything your testing for.? What test kit are you using? What procedure are you using to cycle your tank? I wouldn't add anything yet till we know these answers.

I think he meant clown fish.

You can post it when you PM her

Just remember when you transfer to turn your display lights down for a couple of days then slowly ramp them over that course of time.

If your corals don't look good they're not thriving. If you want to go with a inexpensive light invest in a LED natural white light bulb available at most home improvement centers. You can use a clamp on shop light for this. I would stay away from natural sunlight if I were you.

Anemones really need an established tank. If I was in your position (and thank God I'm not. I would hate having my hands tied in your line of work) I would sell them on a per-order basis and make sure to ask if their tank is at least 9 moths old. But that's just me.

It should be worth the effort. Increase the drip and you can cut that time back to 1-1/2 to 2hrs.

I managed a restaurant for a few years so I do understand shrink although we called it waste. Maybe they (bosses) would let you set up a separate quarantine tank labeled "Not For Sale" just for Tangs and Angels. A 30g would work. Just a simple tank with a HOB filter, minimal lighting, heater, a...

Any API test kits are at the bottom of the list as far as accuracy in testing. API test strips are intended for spot checks to indicate that there is a problem and shouldn't be counted on as far as actual test results go. In regards to your salinity your caught between a rock and a hard place...

Do you regularly test the suppliers water to see what gravity they send new stock to you in? If there's even a subtle difference between their gravity and yours just tossing them in without acclimating them to your salt gravity would send your new stock into stress. Tangs have a thinner slime...

Yes, there is a chance of any Nem doing that but that just proves the point. And no, you don't sound defensive. You have questions and need answers.

Any level of Ammonia is a dangerous level. It burns their gills and they can suffocate.

There's a couple more items to note: I know you don't have corals now but Chocolate Chips and Pink Urchins love to dine on corals. I'd keep an eye on the Bubble Tip. If it decides to get pissed off or just dies I don't think your filtration is adequate to handle the fallout. Just a thought.