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Thanks again, looks like I will be going with the Ushio's. I did find this PDF on their site with interesting details, charts, etc. http://www.ushio.com/files/specs/Aqualite.pdf I am no expert in reading them, but it does not seem like the 14k is too far off from the 10k. The 20k's numbers have...

Thanks for the responce and information. The lighting system is the Coralife Aqualight Elite 48", 2x250w MH & 2 96w CF. It came with 2 'standard' magnetic ballasts (not sure the make/model). I did consider swithcing over to the electronic/digital ballasts but have not made the decision yet. I...

I currently have the 14000k AquaMaxx 250w MH mogul Base bulbs in my light, swapped out the original 10000k a while back. It is time to change them again. The AquaMaxx bulbs seem to be very 'blue', and I have read people saying they seem to be closer to 20000k's. Anyway, my question is, I am...

Possible hurricane in the area in the next few days, just got my 110g set back up recently. My question is in regards to how long I can run certain things off a 12v power inverter.   How long can a Eheim 2080 Canister Filter rated at 20 watts/hour run on a standard 12v 'car/marine' battery?  ...

I have a 110 extra-hi, 30" deep. Running 2x250 MH - after a couple weeks of research and suggestions it was concluded that this was going to be my best bet to 'future-proof' the system so I could keep anything I wanted in it later down the line.

That Tang look pretty 'beat-up' on the topsides, what happened? Does the Maroon pick on him?

The New York Times did a nice 3pg article on expensive fish tanks in homes.....   http://www.nytimes.com/2010/08/19/garden/19aqua.html?pagewanted=1&_r=1   I figured I would share as it would make good reading for this lazy Sunday afternoon :)

I had 3 yellow tangs in a 75g when I 1st started this hobby about a decade ago, bought from a LFS, they never said it was a bad idea. They lasted 3+ years with no signs of any problems. I had to move and could not take the fish so I 'donated' them back to a different more prof LFS. The owners...

If your Ca and alk are perfect and your Ph is still low (8.0) what else could be the cause? I read low mag. once somewhere?

Ok, well I seem to have an answer :) Water changes are a given, I just wondered how much 'less' of a hassle it was without the fish (food/waste). Not too much of a difference it seems I guess. I was not looking to do a coral only tank, but was just curious.

I will keep this thread 'alive' for others who want info on this filter and how it performs over the long run. I did purchase it & set it up the other night, very simple. Filled the media baskets with SeaChem Matrix (12L). This pump is silent! The reviews I read said it was quiet but even I was...

Technically I asked about that specific filter, not canister filters in general. If you had no experience with that specific filter there was no reason to respond, well unless you like to 'hear yourself' type. Thanks anyway.

I know a lot of people have FOWLR tanks, then the normal Reef tank with Fish/Coral, but I was curious if people have Coral only tanks (non-frag tanks)? Would a coral only tank be easier to maintain, less food = less waste = low nitrates? Just curious, thanks!

Originally Posted by acrylic51 I read your original posts, and your assumptions as to; to many risks, situations, customizations are unfounded if properly setup.....A drilled tank will be less headache any day, and canister filtration systems have their limits IMO..... I designed this system...

Yes yes yes, I know sumps are 'the way to go', but as you see in my original post I am not going that way, too many risks/issues/situations/customizations. Besides, I have run canisters on ALL my SW tanks and never had any issues (all tests are good). I was hoping someone had some here had used...

I have a 110g, thinking of using an Eheim Professional 3 2080 canister as my filtration, what are your thoughts on this filter? (not using a sump, on this system) Thank you!

I use Oceanic. Mixes very well, and levels are good.

I have a 110g that I broke down to set up differently, but had to remove the fish. I set up my 37g, dry sand, dry (base rock), with 2 ecco canister filters. Tossed it a little food to start the cycle, and also added stress zyme. It took about a week and a half before the nitrite levels droped to...

Interesting. I thought I read somewhere that it would take longer, but become 'live' eventually. I guess I can pick up a small piece from my LF store and do it that way. How big should the piece be?

I am setting up my system using 100lbs of base rock & dry sand - will the base rock become live rock over time or do I need to do something special? I do NOT want to add any live rock to the system, trying to limit my risk of introducing algae to the system. Thanks!