Search results

You might have a bloom of cynobacteria...it sometimes takes a deep dark green color. Its not a good thing, and almost nothing will eat it. If you try and pick it up, does it clump and come up in large pieces? If so, its probably cyno. One little trick for cleaning it up is to drop a tablet of...

Here ya go: Microdesmidae (Wormfishes), subfamily: Ptereleotrinae Order: Perciformes Class: Actinopterygii (ray-finned fishes) Common Name: Blackfin dartfish Max. size: 14.0 cm TL (male/unsexed) Environment: reef-associated; marine ; depth range 2 - 15 m Climate: tropical; 21 - 27°C...

...one other thing that occurred to me. You may have behavior/aggression problems with the damsels. They will probably leave everyone else alone, but kick the crap out of each other. Watch them carefully, and if you have an aggression problem, bring two of them back to the LFS, it won't get...

Whew, thats some suprise. Well...I'll be honest with you, with the exception of the gobies, you may be okay, assuming the tank has cycled at least most of the way. To help everyone survive, you're going to have to nurse your cycle along if its not complete. The way you would do this is by...

I'll attack a few of your questions...use live sand in the sump, to gain the beneficial bacterial filtration properties of the sand. If you use a good amount of live rock in there in addition, you can do away with the bio balls, the rock and the sand will take care of that part of the filtration...

Don't EVER. Copper will leetch into your rocks and sand, and is almost impossible to completely eradicate. Go with the hospital/quarantine idea.

The percula is a good choice...you may have trouble with the coral beauty unless he eats prepared food right away, pay careful attention to that! They usually prefer a well established tank with lots of live rock to graze. Anyway...about the slime..is it a thin film at the top? This is usually a...

What makes them more difficult is that in my opinion they're the most difficult gobies to wean onto fabricated foods. Most of them will only eat pods and the like, and a good, replentishing population of them is required. I've seen other gobies take flake, frozen, live brine, but never a Mandarin.

Thinking about this -- I think your best option is a third temporary tank. This way, you can acclimate your fish slowly to the third tank (which can be just a plain small tank with a good filter using water from your 38) Then, move over your items from your 38 to the 90. Let the 90 cycle for a...

I doubt it. Unless your movement caused a large amount of die-off on the rock, theres really no reason for moving it to cause a cycle. Look for the telltale signs of die off, white discoloration of the rock, but again, I doubt you'll see it. Was the rock out of the water for any long period of time?

Well...if you want my favorite addition to a reef tank, I'd go with a school of green chromises. They're cheap, hardy, get along with one another, and don't bother anything in the tank. Great, colorful, active addition to a reef tank. We have 8 in our 54 gallon reef.

COPEPOD - small creatures that usually get into reef tanks via live rock - they look like tiny white bugs, very prolific.

Ok, I knew this was bound to happen, I was hoping it wouldn't, but it did. We added a flowerpot coral to our reef tank last week, and our percula clown has decided (just today after a week of ignoring it) that he loves it, loves it forever, never leave it, etc. This is obviously stressing out...

I can't really help you in this specific situation with that specific fish, but a general suggestion may help. Whenever you try to feed a critter like you're describing, the best technique I have found is a feeding stick. Get a package (1.79) of wooden shish kabob skewers, and tape them...

CBS will regenerate the claws, most likely next molt.

Don't even THINK of keeping him without a secure tank. Use the duct tape, as suggested, or use plastic shipping tape. I've had a snowflake and a chainlink, and they BOTH did the carpet dive several times before I sealed the tanks. Its just their nature, they love to explore, and obviously don't...

I agree! I've had many, many tanks, and every time I buy a new one I go BIGGER. I started with a 20 gallon, then a 55, now we have a 54 and a 90. I've been trying to talk my wife into replacing the 54 (corner) with a 92. ALWAYS go bigger, your water problems are fewer, and you can have larger...

FW oscars, SW its my flounder. This fish never read how flounders are supposed to behave, so he stays out on top of the sand 75% of the time. He also LOVES to be fed individually, I put some krill or clam on the end of a wooden skewer and wave it in front of him and he grabs it. He won't eat...

It may sound silly, but maybe you can remove the 5 turbos temporarily, and 'borrow' something that eats snails, like a porcupine puffer. Know anyone in your area with a tank? Sometimes whacky solutions are your only option. DONT use any of the snail killing chemicals on the market, it will never...

You can mix them, that will work. You only need about 20% live to easily activate the play sand. The formula for figuring out how many pounds you need is this: Length of tank x width of tank x desired depth (3 for 3 inches) x .0579. Good luck!