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mike has a good point. The free swimming phase of ich lives on the substrate, where UV will not contact it. Usually it is fish that dwell near the bottom of the tank that contract it, temperature (stability) is absolutely the key factor in preventing this in the first place.

I agree with Slick, you probably had some ich active when you added new livestock. Get all of the fish out of there and give it a good 6 weeks for the ich to die out. Be real careful about fluctuations in temperature, make sure you have a 3-4 watt per gallon heater on the tank, ich is often...

Any glass tank will bow over time, even 12 inch thick glass. Glass is a supercooled liquid, it is a liquid. Look at the windows in a 30+ year old house, it takes a long time for gravity to cause glass to flow, but under the pressure of a filled aquarium it doesn't take more than a year or so...

All Glass is based in Milwaukee, I know that the outlet store is in what was in 1980 a bad area, Dad wouldn't take me there, not sure of the location of the outlet store, but here is where you can find out, give them a call! : All-Glass Aquarium • 9675 S. 60th St. Franklin, WI 53132 • (414)...

Check your impeller in the Prizm, you probably have a 12 blade. They switched to an 18 blade impeller which made the unit quieter and also increased performance. Contact Red Sea and ask them to send you an 18 blade impeller. The Prizm (18 blade) does a good job, but I'd say that 55 gal...

try ahsupply on the internet as well.

They work but if the flow through the denitrator stops (power outage) when flow restarts it can dump hydrogen sulfide into the tank. If you use one, I'd set it up with a gravity feed and dump the output into the sump.

I wouldn't use an adhesive tape on that though, get some of the teflon pipe threading tape, that should do it and the stuff is inert.

Just as an example, petsolutions sells a retrofit for the Eclipse 12, it is a 32 watt smartlamp for about $70 including the bulb. You could spend about 40 on just the bulbs for your present hood, so it would be economical.

Like nolo said I would replace those soon, the water leaving the RO unit is very corrosive since it is very pure, it will dissolve things like brass at a much higher rate than tap water. Brass contains copper and lead (and other metals) and you definitely don't want that in the tank. If it...

You can use carbon as a biological media, but in that case, you would not want to replace more than half of it at a time, just rinse it in the old tank water every time you do a water change.

Benihuma, are you going to go to the All-Glass outlet store in Milwaukee? I've thought about going there, just to see what the deals are, but I haven't gotten around to it yet.

You may want to look into a PC retrofit kit for that hood, then you could keep almost anything in there (55W and up)

I've seen glass tanks bow over time, it happens, glass is really a supercooled liquid. Glass that bows and can be bent by pushing on it is definitely a cause for concern. Never seen it, hopefully never will. Get rid of the tank and buy a respectable brand next time, AGA is very good. I'm...

Check out broomers website and look at his refugium, he built a pretty slick reinforcement setup on a rubbermaid container.

Really, if you use gravel with the undergravel filter, I don't think that it has the surface area that it needs, reverse flow could prevent the buildup of detritus to some degree, but I think you would still have some areas of low flow that would allow detritus to settle, or fall through the...

The most economical way is to go with Power Compact fluorescents. I would get a DIY kit and build my own hood. Look at www.ahsupply.com for some ideas. A lot depends on what you want to keep in the tank, esp with corals or clams.

Somebody was smoking something not legal. If this were true the edges of all glass tanks would fissure and basically turn to sand in a few years time. As long as you provide proper cooling to the bit/glass while doing it, there is no issue.

Now would be a good time to start bugging your local water utility for a water analysis. Get this double checked by your LFS to see if you need to purchase a RO/DI unit.

MH and Fluorescent (NO, HO, VHO, PC) require different ballasts, you need to match the ballast to the bulb you intend to use. You will need more than one ballast to run that configuration. Take a look at www.bulbs.com and click on ballasts, that'll at least give you a starting point.