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Originally posted by RussianSpy Mine RBTA is under 192 PC and 20 VHO I added the VHO light just to give it that much more light so it could live longer...I'm in a rush to get my: 2x95VHO 1x250MH Up soon so it will survive and hopefully split, Its raising its "Stalk" up as much as it can and its...

I don't even use a single baffle in my 29G fuge. It really depends on how much flow you're looking to put through it. I'm running 600 GPH trhough it. I had a bit of a problem with the 15 running on the 29 so I filled a 3" acrylic tube with LR and let the overflow dump into it. Makes a good place...

theres no doubt they need alot of food but I think they need quite a bit of food under any lighting and that lack of is just as big a factor as bad water is to their survival rates. 380 watts on a 30 is pretty good and it's only 18" deep. I had 150 VHO and 175MH on my 29 and the BTA would hide...

whats expensive? I would recommend a bak-pak2r or even better, aquac remora. You can get the remora for about $150 I believe.

bigger is better and just about anything is better than nothing but 7G for a 90 is really close to worthless and hardly worth the effort IMO. I'd look into a temp brace to use while installing a larger one or a 2 piece arrangement.

make sure you're using 100% silicone and that it's completely cured before using it and it will be fine.

the doc didn't mean just surviving, he means healthy and growing. Granted, I don't mean to intend that anyone try to keep an anemone under such extreme low lighting but if it has good amount of Zooxanthellae maybe you should look more towards food than light. a starving anemone will be more...

This is opening a can of worms but according to Dr. Ron Shimek, host anemones can be kept under almost any lighting regimen (even NO) if properly fed. Zooxanthellae only provide carbohydrate nutrition, while feeding provides both carbs and proteins. However a certain amount of light is needed...

Originally posted by oceanminded Hey Thedogofwa, is the link you posted without the wood being stained because it is nowhere close to the color my maple stand is....? I'm guessing so. heres a few pics of a canopy I just built for a friend. It was made to house a PFO acrolight on a 75G. It...

not unless there is some means of foam seperation and collection. The filter media won't do it, the proteins will collect on the media and be redeposited into the water.

hole placement will depend on the drain size and the "takeoff" of the PVC. It is also dependent on your pumps GPH and where you would like the waterline to be, as well as tank size. on my 75 I used 2-1" drains and my slots are cut about 1/4" into the 90. running 600 GPH the water lvl sits just...

heres a sketch with a T installed in the back. I found that if you're running around 50% of the drains capacity, angling the drain plumbing will kill the nosie dramatically. But if you're pushing a higher % than that, you can place a cap on top and drill a hole to muffle the sound but still...

Heres the focus specs for your camera. Your macro mode is down to 3.9". If you try to get any closer you'll lose clarity. The optical zoom is what you're really interested in. Some of the best macros are taken from a distance using 100% optical zoom. your pics look pretty good, have you...

check em out here, http://www.oceansmotions.com/ not too shabby and the company is also working on a wave box similair to the new tunze wavebox. I imagine you could use just the revolutions with something like a SCWD too, they just need something that will alternate output between exits.

thanx, I originally did it on my 29 because using a box was so obstructive. I was concerned about adequate surface extraction but it does just fine. Ended up liking it so much I just decided to do the same with then 75 the first pic shows them in my tank. Only the one on your right is plumbed in...

Originally posted by midasblenn I added a 9x9x1 block of cell-pore in the bottom of the sump under the bio-balls for an oxygen difficient bacteria zone Great Idea!

can't think of what maple would cost per foot off the top of my head but you could probably do the ones I'm seeing at all-glass for about $50 if you have the tools you need. http://www.all-glass.com/products/st...ple_body.shtml

Originally posted by DamnDamsel Shame there is nothing designed better yet. Who would not pay more to have less maintenance. agreed, but the whole physics of it makes it hard to accomplish. Have you seen the oceansmotions valves and revolutions? Not PH's but very nice.

Go big! get more :D but not too much IMO, there may be some merit to the theory of too much. How do you like it? I like the full look myself. If it were me, about 25 more should do it. If SPS interests you, getting it closer to the light will only help.

yes, very nice, it even takes advatage of the bubbles from the drain and should eliminate any microbubble return to the display.