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10X per hour is a good minimum and up to 20X is even better especially if you have a reef tank. Good Powerheads IMO are maxi jets. for a 46g you could go with 2 maxi jet 600's which I think are around 165gph each.

buy something other than a rio. But this size is not too much current for a 72g. Might want to go with a couple of PH totally up to this GPH or higher as current is good for the tank and won't harm most fish.

Can't help with building the canopy part as I am woodworking challenged:) but the DIY VHO set up I have done and it's cheap and easy. Start with a Workhorse 7 ballast ($45-$50 at most electrical warehouse's). some VHO end Caps ($6 - $10 pretty much anywhere on the internet). 2 110w VHO bulbs...

I always leave my hermit and shrimp molts in the tank, if nothing else it puts the calcium they consumed back into the system. Not sure what consumes them but they are usually gone in a couple of days.

I doubt it was nitrates that killed your fish as they can withstand very high nitrates where your crabs and snails will die long before any fish. What fish are you considering to put in the tank? Best detrious eaters IMO are bristle worms, pods, nassarius snails, scarlet reef hermits. a 29g...

you probably want a VHO set up either retro or a complete hood depending on what kind of $ you want to spend. VHO lighting will enhance the color of any fish you have and will allow you to keep pretty much all soft corals and most LPS corals. There are a wide range of systems and prices but most...

No glass covering the tank. I get some salt creep on the bulb that I clean off once a week but no other problems. It is better to have 6" - 8" of space between the bulb and the water surface but sometimes our canopies just don't cooperate.

A great cheap 220w VHO set up is just a workhorse 7 ballast ($45.00 at any electrical warehouse) and a set of end caps ($5.00 off any number of websites). Easy to wire and easy to install if your system has a canopy.

this is do-able but heat will be a problem and you will need fans blowing across the water and bulb under the canopy. I have a 37g that I put a 175w MH on and the bottom of the bulb is only 4" off the water. since I run a sump I put a fan in the sump to help cool the water and for the past 18...

Don't kid yourself Rio makes a low quality product that stays in business by being the cheapest available. The reason it made such a difference is probably due to the rio PH needs to be cleaned constantly or they lose pressure and eventually sieze up. do a search on rio power heads and you will...

I used to have a CPR 18" unit. Great for growing pods and getting them into your tank. very weak on nitrate control. I was happy with the product although it was a bit expensive for what you are getting out of it. I only stopped using it because I built a sump/refugium to get a larger refugium...

Tomato clowns seem to like redecorating the tank. Mine is a terror and it has gotten to the point where I am seriously considering taking him out of the tank and trading him away. He attacks any frag I put in the tank and tries to bulldoze it over. He's killed several frags doing this and I am...

with a fish only tank and no corals I'm not sure why you are dosing the bionic in the first place. Regular water changes will keep your calcium and alk right where it should be since you don't have anything in your tank to really feed off of and reduce the calcium. Stop the dosing and just do...

I would not add any more algae eaters as you have more than enough now to do the job. The problem is too many nutrients in the water. Remember just because you test 0 for nitrates doesn't mean that excessive nitrates is not the problem it only means that all the existing hair algae in the tank...

If your asking about the size of return pump then Kipass has good advice. If your talking about the Powerhead that is needed to keep the CPR overflow from losing syphon then any type of power head that has a venturi connection will do, personally I use Maxi jets. Just hook the little rubber...

fellow "Geek" here and what your seeing (tadpole things) are mysis shrimp. They are a pod and are benificial to the tank as a detrivore and source of fish food so consider yourself lucky. They usually get into the tank via LR or LS. the red things are most likely bristle worms another benificial...

Pretty much any mushroom, button polyps,yellow polyps, green Star Polyps, most zoos, leathers, Basically any of the soft corals. Even some of the LPS would be OK.

There are really no miracle cures for hair algae and it is probably one of the most common problems so that is why there are so many posts about it. Looks like your taking almost all the necessary steps but I have a couple of questions. What size tank do you have and what is in it for a bioload...

Seems like normal behavior for a tomato clown to me. mine is real nasty and beats up on any new frag I put in the tank. I have probably lost 5 SPS frags in the last 6 months because the clown bulldozes them right off the rock I put them on. Even when I glue them on the clown will attack them...

new tanks almost always experience a Hair Algae out break. sounds like your doing everything you can do. Remove as much as possible by hand or by taking rocks out and scrubbing them (rinse them with salt water though or you will kill off the bacteria). skimmer cup should not be filling and...