Search results

1) scold your fiance!! lol 2) check out the sticky at the top of this forum. The best treatments for ich are hyposalinity (preferred) and copper.

Cleaner shrimp will almost never eradicate ich. They would have to clean up every single trophont on every fish to be successful. Most trophonts actually affect the gills (where most fish will not let clearner species act). Many fish will not take to cleaner shrimp. I enjoy cleaner shrimp in my...

You can remove your live rock and inverts and do hyposalinity in that tank. Copper has to be dosed properly and is more toxic (and more expensive) than hyposalinity. However these are really your only reliable options. The live rock and inverts can be maintained in a clean rubbermaid container...

Is anything besides the anemone new? If so, you are likely dealing with a disease. If not, this may just be from trauma. If this is the case, garlic and good foods may be all that is necessary. After the royal gramma realizes that the clownfish is not leaving, they will probably leave each other...

The free swimming particles of ich are nearly invisible. There are lots of other lifeforms which could be swimming in your water column. These are what feeds filter-feeding organisms liike sponges. as well as many clams and corals.

Originally posted by Sato Personally I have had some luck with Melafix but im almost positive its not designed for ich(its anti-fungal isnt it?). Tea tree oil (melaleuca) is the active ingredient in Melafix. It does have some mild antifungal properties. However, ich is not a fungus. It is a...

Originally posted by iceemn360 WHY DOES THE PH DROP WHEN YOU ADD FRESH H20 IF THIS IS THE CASE WOULD DISTILLED H20 NOT CHANGE THE PH? The pH of pure water/distilled water is 7. When you add that to your tank, the pH will drop. The effect is more noticable when you are doing hyposalinity as...

Check out the sticky at the top of this forum. The only reliable treatments for ich are hyposalinity (preferred) and copper.

Red discoloration on a yellow tang suggests poor water quality. Make sure you check your ammonia and nitrite levels as these fish do not tolerate even small amounts of these chemicals.

Yes it is fine to do this to improve the circulation within your sand bed. However, it is probably best to do this when you are not doing a water change so that you don't lose a lot of the smaller particles.

If it is only a small spot and is not rapidly growing, it might only be lymphocystis.

Many people on these boards had similar experiences. You have to remember that the LFS is happy to sell you quick fixes (particularly if they don't really solve the problem so that you periodically have fish die which you have to replace). I stopped buying fish from the LFS and purchased almost...

You might get a better response in the reef forums. I'll take a stab at this one. One possibility is that the coral is shedding. Some corals will do this periodically and then completely recover. I had this happen to a pink leather coral of mine.

It is typical for ich to appear to come and go. As long as the fish otherwise appears healthy, you might as well let your QT begin to cycle (perhaps just add a small amount of food as if there was a fish in it) and continue to watch your fish. Another possibility which I have seen on my own...

What kind of a knot did you use? I wear a tie all the time at work. I use a full windsor knot. I have gradually developed quite a selection of ties and can go for 5-6 months without repeating (particularly around the Christmas holidays). Some of these have fun and unusual designs but I can get...

The only reliable treatments for ich are hyposalinity and copper. Neither of these treatments can be used with live rock/sand or invertebrates.

How large is your naso tang? If the tang is less than 5 inches, there should be very little added stress. If the QT is cycled, you could even probably tolerate of 12 inch tang for a month long treatment. Most fish can survive a month in a 25. They are maintained in cramped quarters for quite...

Check out the sticky at the top of this forum. There is a good writeup about setting up a QT/hospital tank.

Welcome to the boards! The reddish growth is probably cyanobacteria if it is maroon colored and seems to be more noticeable after your lights have been on for a while. Do a search for cyanobacteria. You will learn lots of tips to help with this problem. This is not really a disease so not too...

Saltwater ich has to be introduced into a tank (usually on an infected fish). The disease has a long enough lifecycle with many stages not visible which is why it is recommended to quarantine for 3 weeks minimum.