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Is it not "late in the game" to be asking if the light is fine?????

I have 2 hydrometers and they are both wrong, yes, wrong. One is too low and the other too high. So I bought a Refractometer about 5-months ago and BINGO....correct Sg 100% of the time...best $43 ever.. I tossed the hydrometers in the trash..

The sedment and carbon are like every 6-months RO is like 2 years and the DI is no clue these are general rules and it depends on the water being filtered. I know my DI is only about 1/6 depleted after 9 months. It will last a long time. Also the DI cart could have the color changing to tell you...

I must ask the same question, why. I use a Kent Maxima and it is perfect. THe filters make the unit, not the name. That is where the TDS comes in. The GPD is really I joke I feel. If you read the fine print, the GPD is only achieved at the correct temp and pressure. My temp is much lower then...

I would test for TDS and phosphates. Even test for nitrates. What kind of lights, inverts, salt??? Need some tank details. I had a small problem and did some testing. I also got some mex turbo snails. They are HUGE and ate all up in about 2 days.

I have a Kent Marine Maxxima 60 Hi-S. Paid $199 to my door! Works great!

The better one I found was at air water ice dot come. One word.. It is +/- 2% most other are +/- 2ppm

where can I buy one? I can email you?

as msd2 said is correct for me. My RO filter makes my 38 ppm TDS tap water go down to about 12 ppm of TDS. After DI is zero! I bought a TDS meter for $24.95 and it +/- 2%, and measure temp!

I agree, that is why I moved the PH around to go more movement. Also that is why I am adding another PH (with wave maker) to move the water behind the LR. The only trick I do not know 100% is 02 water. I am moving water from my sump/PS back to main tank. From there it goes in a “Y” loc-line...

#1 Well since the cryano was getting worse. I did the following. Replaced the first two filters on my RO/DI (cardon and a sediment).. Also tested TDS and got zero before and after replacing. But they needed to be replaced. #2 Moved PH around and the water is all moving better. #3 Now the...

I have gone from 7 hours per day down to 4. But I think my lights are getting old.

Looks great, but what about the lights on replacing? Can I do all at once?

Ok people I need your help yet again. I am replacing my PC bulbs since they are from 4-1-2004 and I have a cryano issue. Since I only have a FOWLR tank can I replace all bulbs (2- 10K and 2-ctinic at once)? I know most posted when I searched said do only one like every week, but since I do not...

Lastly, I would try to get rid of the algae in the tank. Either with a turkey baster or a hose. I used a hose and sucked out some sand, the cryano and a few gallons of water. I removed 90% of it and started from there. Then I did the no lights and so one. It is a pain. And so far I have lots...

I was too but that is good to start. If nothing in the water is using the light for food, the algae will use it. I would test for Phos or silicates in the water. If they are there, test RO membrane unit with TDS. If they are there, your filter is bad. If not, you are doing something to add...

I just bought some chemi-clean but am trying other means first. I cut my lights back to 4 hours and slowwwwly going up 1/2 hour every two weeks. Doing this till I get cryano bad then back off. Also I re-pointed my PH and added another (total of 3 PH). Cut feeding to everyother and so far it is...

I do not even run my 75 FOWLR that long on lights. Also have you tested for Phos or silicates, in water?

Cut the lighting back, too long. I would also put the intank pump on or near the bottom to flow over the sand. Then I would get another small pump or the opp side and do the same but point it up a tad.

I just asked since you could have a sump with a 110 GPH pump but it is really only pushing 60GPH in the tank. So you should have enought flow. What is the light time, in hours per day? Also I would feed everyother day. Also how old is the tank?