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I always used Prestone Driveway Heat and baking soda used according to the holmes-farley recipe. Worked well but now I pretty much stick with kalkwasser. Less troublesome overall... until you can't keep up with demand anymore.

It probably got stressed with the move and may be shedding. Kenyas are fairly tough corals. Give it a few days, although by now it should have recovered i would think.

AFAIK the 250w and 400w use the same mogul socket.

1/4 to a full gallon a day depending on the dryness of the air. When the fan worked, I could see a gallon and a half in the summer during very dry days.

I have battled them off and on over the years. Big ones get a slurry/kalk mix squirted right at the mouth. They tend to swallow it and die. Small ones are cleaned up by peppermints. Don't try to manually remove them. This only hastens their spreading. Interestingly enough, I have seen them...

oh and the deciding factor for me was the fact that having it any lower left shadows on the side of the tank with my particular reflector.

I have mine sitting about 12 inches above the water. Running a 20k XM bulb, magnetic ballast, same dimension tank. Heat can be an issue. I see a 1-2* temp increase from when the lights come on to off - I have a hood that is mostly open. I used to have a fan running with the lights from an old...

Yes, but it would be ugly as sin. Very yellow looking but you will have good growth.

Google "Stockman's Standpipe" It is an air adjustment modification that quiets the gurgle/splashing of overflows.

Possibly but not likely. Brine aren't the best food in any case.

My tank raised Ocellaris clowns hosted in a hairy mushroom. Easier to keep than an anemone.

Usually the return pump is in a separate area to minimize things getting caught in it, algae, etc. Also to keep the area small so if the over flow quits, breaks siphon, gets blocked by a snail, etc. there is a limited amount of water that can be pumped into the DT and overflow. Another baffle...

Originally Posted by adurost This may be a really stupid question, but can you modify a tank while it is in use? My sump is a 20G long with an free-standing acrylic box with bio-balls on one end and a 5-6 pieces of rock rubble in the tank. I've been told that a refugium would help lower my...

Originally Posted by adurost So, on several points it would be better to more evenly match the return pump to the rate of flow of overflow rather than dialing back the pump? Yes? Yep, slightly under the overflows rate. Remeber to take into account headloss.

Originally Posted by spanko IMO go with glass, not acrylic or plexiglass. You will get a better bond with glass on glass and silicone than with plastic on glass with silicone. For baffles it probably doesn't matter - I sanded mine to rough them up and cleaned both with rubbing alcohol before...

Originally Posted by adurost I've seen a lot of suggestions to do this lately... Won't you wear out the pump faster by reducing the outflow with a ball valve on a continual basis? Maybe a little bit, but you are also generating more heat and wasting electricity.

Probably just stressed from the environment change. Wait it out, maybe leave the lights out and gradually bring them back to the full time you normally have them on over the course of the next few days.

Adding buffers is just a band aid, and not a good one. What is your setup, tank size, sump, turn over, overflows, calcium reactor, etc. Do you or anyone else in the house smoke? Are you checking pH in morning/evening? Have you read this thread...

Originally Posted by Jrse7en I'm taking my tanks to the LFS to get drilled tonight. He reccommended I use soft pipe to tie them together. Anyone ever have two 10g tanks drilled? I've drilled the side of them with a dremel. 10gallons are some mighty thin glass. Good luck.

Give it a few more days, sometimes oil, residue, etc. can disrupt water surface tension for a day or so and keep a skimmer from functionining. Also the bacteria, etc. you removed while cleaning will have to build up again.